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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • This is to reply #700-- My problem is intermittant-- sometimes the vents work where the switch says..but usually the problem is after it sits for awhile-- whatever the diverter positions were the last time it was on -- they stay there. Eventually if you run recirculate for awhile, change positions-- things gradually work again. Any ideas? Dealer always tells me the problem does not exist when he checks it out (surprise) rubiconrobert
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    I found a small battery under my seat in my Jeep. Its an A23 12 volt. I cannot figure out what it goes
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Do you have a garage door opener or alarm system?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Nope...I thought might have fallen out of some spot on the Jeep but maybe it was something else.

  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    Welcome to the world of Chrysler.
    The diverter door problem has been with the Dodge Vans since the 70's.
    Your dealer needs to take the whole thing apart and lube all the little plastic bits and hopefully put it back together the right way.
    If you keep the JEEP long enough you will have to do it again.
    The little vacuum motors that move the d-door are not strong enough to overcome the friction of the d-door mechanisms.
    You can always find solace in the fact that Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep saved 50 cents production cost.
    You can always stop and reach up under the dash and help the doors by pushing or pulling on the levers and linkages.
    This really sucks when it raining since you need to stand outside the drivers door and reach under the dash to wiggle these things.
    If you are in the city and your windows are all fogged up just move the heater control to the defrost position and jump a curb.
    Any cop who drives a JEEP will understand this blind driver move.
    If we all do this (just like Alice's Restaurant) they will all think it's a movement.
    The Crazy TJ Curb Jumper Movement...
  • The same thing has occurred on my 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sahara (standard, 4WD, w/A.C.), four times. One time it lasted less than 5 months.. Each time it was replaced under the warranty. After the 4th time it needed to be replaced I asked the service manager what was going on, they suggested it was just bad parts that Chrysler had been given for a blower switch.. I was curious if they even looked to see if there was possibly a different reason it kept on going out, but since replacing it is the quickest fix that’s all they did. They didn’t seem very interested in finding a root cause.

    It's now out of warranty and the blower switch has failed again…

    I considered after that 4th time to call Chrysler to complain about it, and get some kind of guarantee that I wouldn’t have to pay to get another one installed (since in good faith I came in under the warranty to get this fixed correctly which obviously it wasn't), but I never did. I may see what happens when I bring it in the 5th time for the same problem. I may also try replacing it myself since its easily accessible.
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    The heater controls are from the same pile of junk as the rest of the heater/AC crap.
    I have a 1947 Willys CJ2A with the original heater rheostat switch.
    The heater core has been rebuilt and the motor was replaced when I converted it to 12 volt, but all the heater wiring is still original.
    Weird huh.
    I have had the blower switch on my TJ replaced 6 times so far.
    Replaced the console once. Smoked the wiring twice.
    MoPar still mean buy MOre PARts every day.
  • Desperate question to anyone who has had a similar experience. I have had the death wobble for several months. Balancing and correct tire pressure seemed to take care of it for awhile but it is back. Brought it to the dealer and had the track bar replaced, a broken sway bar link replaced, tires balanced and rotated, front and rear shocks replaced, left and right wheel bearings and axle seals replaced,and replaced front pinion seal due to leak. Steering damper checked and is OK. Everything was covered (except the rotate and balance) by an extended warrenty I thought I would never use. Otherwise $1400.00! Jumped in the Jeep and hit the first highway bump @ 60-65 and its still there. Have to break to 45 for it to stop. Jeep will shake the fillings out of your teeth!! Very dangerous. Dealer wants me back on Mon. to try and duplicate it to mechanic. Now my question: Could it be something as simple as the tires. I have no mods (except for black American Racing rims) or large tires. Have about 32,000 miles on Toyo A/T tires. 60,000 on the Jeep. 50,000 of them I put on. Rims have been on since July 05. No problem at that time. Any suggestions? Wife and friends will no longer ride in the Jeep. Its my daily ride so I'm locked in. Thanks for listening. John
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    I think death wobble has had several posts on the main Wrangler board. You don't have a lot of miles (and, if I read correctly, your TJ is not lifted).
    You might try checking closely for any looseness in the steering by having one person move the steering wheel while another looks carefully at all of the steering components. All parts obviously must move together.
    I discarded a set of tires that have become out-of-round. The tire carcasses can shift, and that might set up an oscillation.
    Other posts in the main board have suggested tire pressures as a possible cause. You might try higher and lower pressure to see - just be careful.
    Good luck.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    If you go up to the Group level (link), you can use the search tool there to search every Wrangler discussion for all the death wobble posts. Look for the Search Jeep Wrangler box.
  • Thanks for responding. I read every post on the DW. Have tryed everything you suggested and keep coming back to tires. May talk to folks about some BFG's today. Thanks again. I'm going on at least 3 months with this so it has become a real pain. John
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Tires can be a culprit. I'd get under there while somebody is turning your steering wheel so you can make sure your joints are not loose - drag link, tie rod ends, both ends of the track bar, etc. May also want to check your control arms to make sure they are secure and there is no play there.

    Have you tried swapping tires/wheels with somebody to see if a different setup takes care of it?

  • Thanks. Will try both this weekend. The swap will be interesting. Thanks again. John
  • The Dreaded Death Wobbles:

    The Death Wobble can be scary [non-permissible content removed]!
    I like you started replacing everything like shocks, tires, and steering parts, which didn’t help. The wobble was still there.
    This problem is in most of the Jeep models. The simple answer is bad ball joints. Jeep has a bad design on the upper ball joints.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Had to classify all cases of DW as being a ball joint issue. Do you have data to back this up or is it what was your problem? For some people I know, the DW they had was a result of:

    1. bad control arm bushings
    2. bad tie rod ends
    3. improperly balanced passenger front wheel
    4. loose steering components

    Not one had a bad ball joint and in fact 2 of them were new Rubicons.

    My old TJ (97 - first year of production), has never had DW, though it has had improperly balanced tires in back. By your statement, mine SHOULD have had DW especially since it was the first year of production.

    I'm not calling BS on your statement as balljoints could be a cause of DW, but it surely is NOT the only cause.

  • I am having the same problem on my 2007 wrangler X unlimited 4DR. Been to the dealer twice and is headed back. I am scared to death to drive this vehicle... nice when you spend 30K on something you cannot enjoy much less just drive back and forth to work. :cry:
  • Greetings!

    I drive a 2005 Jeep Wrangler X on an island in the Carribean.

    I don't have problems with leaks, but it often rains here on very short notice and the inside of my Jeep gets wet more often than I'd like and now has a mildew smell about it when I get in.

    I have been told that I should just strip out my carpet, but I am afraid that it will hurt the resale value of the Jeep. (Although I suppose it stinking inside will as well!)

    I was wondering, has anyone tried Husky floor mat liners?

    I thought these might be a good way to collect the water instead of having it sink into the carpet.

    Either that, or are there any car deodorizers you recommend?

    Any help would be appreciated!


  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Here's some suggestions:

    Removing Foul Odors from your Vehicle's Interior

    How to Remove Odors from Your Car or Truck's Interior

    I like tossing fresh ground coffee around, but it's just a temporary fix.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Besides pulling out the carpet, consider some waterproof seat covers. They may make you a bit more sweaty while driving, but will pay in the long run.

    When you pull out the carpet, perhaps consider something like Herculiner or Line-X. I'm not sure what options you have available, but Herculiner or Durabak or Rhinolining can be used to cover the floor of the Jeep, protect the paint and prevent rust (an issue on a Caribbean island), provide some sound deadening, and provide mildew-free flooring. It is something you can apply yourself if you don't mind removing the seats and the center console... LOTS of writeups on how to do it on the web.

    What island are you on? Just got back from Bonaire 2 weeks ago. :)

  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    I've got the Huskies for the front floorboards. My only complaint is they are difficult to empty--pulling them up usually spills them, so you have to mop water out of them with rags. But they definitely don't leak.
  • The last two days it rained and I noticed water under my passenger side floor mat. I recently put my hard top back on but cannot find any places it could be leaking from. The sides are not wet...just under the floor mat. I know its just water by the lack of any oder. Any suggestions on where the water might be coming from?
  • I had the same problem last year. On mine, I found that the vents in the back of the top just behind the side glass had come loose from its seal. After pulling the vent louvres and re-sealing them, I have not had anymore problems. Not all tops have the vents. If yours does, I would start there.
  • A couple of possibilities. 1. The condensate drain line from your air conditioner could be disconnected and dumping the water in the passenger floor. 2. Many of our beloved vehicles leak water through holes in the firewall when it is raining or when we wash them. Mine does this when it is parked headed uphill and I deal with it by parking headed downhill. As I understand it, you can remove the grill located below the windshield and seal the holes. So far, it has been easier to park headed downhill.
  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    I do not have either…and the owner’s manual does not tell you which fuse to check…Anyone know?
  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    Never mind...I found it, finally.
  • The diverter doors are stuck or at least do not move. therefore i cannot change temp setting. Any ideas on how to fix myself? Jeep dealer wants $600.00-$1,000.00. It;s not the control head, I replaced that, no change.$ Estimate by jeep is ridiculous.
  • I have a 99 jeep wrangler. The defrost is my problem. If I turn the dial to defrost the windshield it works fine on the fan speed 1 and 2. But when I turn the fan speed to the 3rd setting I hear this loud thud, like a door slamming shut, and no air will blow onto the windshield. I do get air on the side window defrost. This problem resets itself if I turn the fan speed down to 1 and turn off the setting selector knob. I do not have a problem with any other setting.
  • I have a 98 wrangler. Each time you get into the car to drive, in the beginning it will act like it is starving for fuel. If you put it in neutral and rev the engine, the problem goes away. It doesn't happen again until you park the car and get back in to start and drive it.

    I have had some of the electrical components in the distributor replaced, the fuel pump is new. I just don't know, and neither does the mechanic I take it to, what to do. Any help
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    If this is happening while the vehicle is still hot from a previous drive, and lasts only for say 4-8 seconds long, it is probably fuel percolation. The fuel sitting in the fuel lines above the engine gets quite heated and starts to boil in the line creating air pockets in the fuel being delivered to the injectors. Reving the engine increases the volume of fuel being pumped through the lines and clears it out faster. In any case, the fuel in the lines will always clear fairly quickly and the problem should not reoccur while driving, at least until you turn it off again and let it sit a bit.
  • I recently bought a 2003 Wrangler TJ Rubicon and noticed that it has the stock electrical fog light hook-ups but lacks the switch in the cab. How do I figure out whether all I am missing is the switch or more? and if I do have the electrical wiring how can I make sure it's connected to the battery?
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