Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

mckenneths

my 3003 wrangler overheated on the highway 2 months ago. I had the thermastat replaced and the radiator flushed. Since the flushing no more overheating yet the reservoir has to topped off each week. I looked one day under the hood and saw drops antifreeze on the ground but was not able to see where it was coming from. I figure thaT i WILL REPLACE THE RADIATOR IN HOPES THAT THIS PROBLEM WOULD END. jUDGING FROM WHAT YOU ARE EXOERIENCING IT SEEMS LIKE THAT MAY NOT WORK.

mac24

I figure thaT i WILL REPLACE THE RADIATOR IN HOPES THAT THIS PROBLEM WOULD END.

Throwing parts at it can be an expensive way to solve the problem. While it could be a radiator leak, it could just as easily be a hose or the water pump. Use a small mirror and a flashlight to find the source of the leak more easily.

markhart

Hi this my first time on this site. I have a 2001 Wrangler SE 4 cly (automatic) As I'm driving down the road I get to about 4-5 rpm's then my car looses power sound like the engine wants to shut off then I the car will down shift and catch itself and go again until I hit 4-5 rpm's again. Can anybody help me?????

mac24

Sounds like something in the transmission is slipping, possibly the torque converter, and you're hitting the rev limiter.

First thing to check is the quantity and quality of transmission fluid. Is it low, is it a clean red or a dirty brown, and very importantly is it ATF+3 or +4. Never use anything else when you top up or change the fluid. You do have the transmission serviced at the correct intervals don't you?

ozark200

'89 Wrangler Model 81 6 cyl 4.2L 60K
Engine completely, randomly quits with no warning. Wait 2-3 minutes and it starts and runs till next random 'quit'.
Happens most often in 4th or 5th gear but can happen anytime. Work done: new fuel filter, complete carb kit installed, new plugs, new wires, new distr cap, new vac pulloff.
Dealer shop has had for eight days and so far they have no clue to problem. Shop did most of work so far trying to fix. Hope this isn't only Jeep ever to have this problem.
Thanks for any help.

ozark200

First item in work done should have been fuel pump not fuel filter.

mac24

Impossible to diagnose precisely from a distance, but most likely to be electrical in nature. Could be anything from a bad ignition switch to a fault in the wiring loom.

Good luck.

markhart

Hey I just wanted to say thank you. I thought it was the transmission as well. Not as indepth as you put it but something to do with it. How would I go about fixing this. Now tonight on the way home it drove fine.

jeeptwo

The front end on my 93 Jeep Wrangler will not engage when I shift it into 4WD. I can tell that the rear is working but the front won't engage. Does this sound like an easy fix?

mac24

How would I go about fixing this.

Low fluid is a fairly obvious fix. Burnt fluid or lack of maintenance will require dropping and cleaning the pan, changing the filter, adjusting the bands, then refilling with ATF+3 or +4. Ideally you should also then have the system flushed. If the problem still persists then it's time for an overhaul I'm afraid.

mac24

You probably have a problem with the front axle disconnect. It's vacuum operated, which is where the problem can often be found.

anthony17

most radios will operate at power up, wait 2 hrs is an unusual message,doesnt make sense to me.some after market cd players will require an initial cd as a power up protection "if power was removed" ie. stolen. the is a constant feed(memory) and an ignition key feed(radio turn on) sorry for the long winded reply, anyway i have my original cd player(from a 2001 wrangler sport)if your interested i'll never need it cheap $ its yours 978 265 0971 anthony

anthony17

i'm pretty good with electronics (liscenced low voltage tech.) i 'm looking to double check with anyone out there, has anyone installed a high perf. mod. in their wrangler. looks very simple, just not sure excatly which sensor i should put it in front of (directions very unclear as to the description of proper sensor)

mac24

Which 'high perf. mod' are you referring to?

div2

It sounds like one of those snake oil gizmos that trick the ECU so that the car runs a richer A/F ratio.

flht

My wife has a 2000 Sahara with a strange elec problem !
While driving the tac & speedo go dead and then return
to normal. Now she tell me it also will flash the air bag
idiot light then shows this "nobu5" where the mileage should be. She has had a short a year or so ago but we found it under the battery tray. Any ideas ??? :confuse:

mtngal

I'd wonder if you've got a dash gauge problem similar to one that affected some '98 Wranglers. But with mine I didn't get anything other than whatever the miles were on the odometer. With mine, all the gauges went dead (including temp and gas) and the air bag light came on. This subject came up relatively recently on the main Wrangler board and mac found the instructions I used to tweek the contacts on the back of the instrument module. I'm not any type of a mechanic, but a friend of mine (who is) and I had no problems doing the whole thing in about a half hour. The hardest thing was getting something I wasn't supposed to take apart (mis-read the instructions) back together. Considering how easy it was, I'd probably do that first and see if it helps.

div2

mtngal is correct. It's not that hard a fix. It takes me @30 minutes, tops.

flht

Where or who can I get these instructions from ?
Thanks mtngal !

earossi

You mentioned earlier that your husband replaced the rotors, pads, and calipers, right? On many cars the calipers are interchangeable right to left and vice versa. The problem is the bleeders are in different places on the left and the right caliper. I have seen where reversing the calipers (right to left), the bleeder ends up on the BOTTOM of the caliper. When that happens, you can bleed the sysstem all day long and you won't get the air out of the system. So, check that and if the bleeders turn up to be on the bottom of the calipers, simply swap the right and left sides, and that should put the bleeders at the top of the caliper. When they are at the top, you should be able to easily bleed the system.

mtngal

I tried to find the post under the Wrangler board where there was a current good link to the directions, but can't find it now. I think mac was the one who found a way to recover the page (the original link is no longer active, and I did find the link to it, posted on the Wrangler board in 2003, post 8368, but it won't work anymore).

flht

mac are you out there ?
I need help finding the link :sick:
thanks,
flht

jeeptwo

Thanks!! that was the problem

mac24

One link, as requested: '98 Gauge Fix

:shades:

flht

Thanks, for the info !
But the link is not accessible

mac24

Strange, it's still working for me, oh well.

Here's a 'cut 'n paste' of the article:

"My 98 TJ was having problems with the gauges, mainly the tach and speedo, intermittently shutting off while driving. One solid whack on top of the dash would temporarily fix it. According to all you cool people out there in Usenet land it was a loose wiring problem in one of the harnesses in the dash.

I didn't want to take my TJ to the dealer unless it was absolutely necessary. Dealers are a pain to deal with. They act like they don't have time for you and then take forever to do anything. So I decided that I'd take a look at it first, then take it to the dealer if the problem warranted it.

Here's the scoop on the gauge problem I was having on my '98 TJ

Problem: While driving, the speedo and tach would go dead and the airbag light would come on. The shift light would also stop working.

Temporary Solution: One good solid whack on top of the instrument panel would temporarily fix the problem.

Permanent Solution: This is much easier than I ever imagined. I fixed the problem myself in about 45 minutes. I could have done it in 10 minutes, if I had already known how to take the dash apart.

Here's how it works. The instrument cluster is a module that plugs into the dash/frame. When removed, the instrument cluster pulls right out, there is no wiring hanging off the back or anything. There are connectors built into the back of the instrument cluster, the other half of the connectors are built onto the frame that the instrument cluster plugs into. This is the connection that was causing the problem. Once the instrument cluster is removed, you can see the small silver blade type connectors protruding from the rear of the instrument cluster in 2 different groups, one on the left and one on the right. All you have to do to fix the connection problem is this. Take a small pair of needle-nose pliers, grab the end of each one of the silver blade type connectors and give it a 10-15 degree twist in one direction. This will bend the connector enough to make a solid connection once the unit is put back together. Be careful not to twist it too much so it doesn't break and/or not go back
together. Do this to all of the connectors, there are about 20 or so. It works great, I haven't had a problem with it since.Oh, ok, so you wanna know how to get the dash apart.

No problem.
1. Locate the long thin grill cover on top of the dash that covers the windshield defroster. It runs almost the entire length of the dash.
2. Work your fingers behind it between the windshield and the cover itself and gently but firmly pull up and toward you. It will pop right out. No screws.
3. Locate the cover that covers the lower half of the steering wheel column down by your knees and remove it. 2 screws.
4. Next you will see a steel cover plate behind the cover you just removed. It has 4 screws. I took it off anyway but it may not be necessary.
5. With these covers removed you will be able to Identify 5 screws that hold the black Instrument panel cover in place.
There are 3 across the top next to the windshield and 2 on the lower side. Remove them and the black cover.
6. You will then be able to see 4 screws that hold the instrument cluster in place. Remove them.
7. The instrument cluster lifts right out.

You can perform this entire procedure, repair the connection, and reassemble your cool jeep in about 15 minutes. All that's needed is a Phillips screwdriver.

Hope this helps, it certainly saved me one of those grueling trips to the dealer.

Victor Rychlicki"

anthony17

its one of those small $40 ebay performance chips, for the IAT, not looking to turn my jeep into a race car , just little 1 and 2 % here and there.it says stage 3 German Engineered? i did alot of research on resistors and chips and several dif. modules, should be ok?!

mtngal

Thank you, mac - that's exactly the directions I followed. Also I added the dielectric grease (is that the correct term, as you can see, I'm no mechanic!) on the contacts. I haven't had a problem since I fixed mine back in 2003 (and yes, I still have the '98 Sport).

flht

Thanks again mac24 will give it a whirl

acampeau

Hi! We have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler that is stuck in park. We can start it, turn the key, step on the brake (it works!), push the gear shift button in (it's an automatic), and the geat shift column won't budge. Any thoughts?

mac24

Sounds like a problem with the brake/transmission interlock cable, probably just needs adjustment. You access it by removing the plastic console around the shift lever.

jeeptwo

I found a hardtop, back seat and doors off of a 1977 CJ5. Will these fit on my '93 Jeep Wrangler?

vatak

Just a follow-up FYI: It was the throwout bearing and was fixed under warranty. However, I felt like I had to take extraordinary steps to get my dealer to do the work or even admit there was a problem. They also found that the rear main seal was leaking; also fixed under warranty. Hopefully, that will be the end of my warranty repairs; these weren't the first. In addition, the pre-installed option of locking gas cap broke after about 4 months of ownership, nearly leaving me stranded with no option but to break it off in order to fuel up.

I had always thought the Wrangler was a quality vehicle, but now after about a year and a half I'm beginning to wonder.

mac24

I had always thought the Wrangler was a quality vehicle, but now after about a year and a half I'm beginning to wonder.

Glad to hear you got it fixed. I do feel that the attitude of your dealer has probably clouded your perception a little. Although by no means unheard of, throwout bearing and rear main seal failures aren't common. I'd put down the failure of a bearing, oil seal, and filler cap in a year and a half, to bad luck rather than poor vehicle quality.

drewmeister

Sorry jeeptwo, won't work. CJ5 is a different body tub, and the windshield mount is different. I believe door openings on the 5 are smaller as well (not sure about the 7...)

jeepman88

i am a proud owner of a 97 and 88 jeep but the 88 has got me worn out with ideas. it runs fine but when you have to come to a stop it stalls out. but the thing thats got me confused is if you stop when going forward it stalls and if going in reverse and stop it seems the idle picks up a little. i did a full tune up changed the fuel filter and cleaned and rebuilt the carb. and checked the pump which seem to be fine but nothing seemed to work any ideas on what to do or check would be great. thanks

mac24

Recheck the float, float level, and needle valve. Inertia will have a different effect on the float and the loading on the needle valve, depending on direction. Can't think of anything else offhand that will be affected by the vehicle's motion.

drewmeister

Boy, did I just run across the link for you!

http://bamph.com/jeep/tech_9.htm

Example text: A CJ7 hard top will fit a YJ with some small gaps around the door tops. 1982 and later have the same latches as the YJ. Due to spare tire mounting differences the tailgate must be opened before the hatch.

drewmeister

I would certainly listen to Mac's advice. However, let me sort of state that as the former owner of an 89, that thing never ran right. And, I worked at a Chrysler dealership service department, so I had access to all the parts at cost as well as all the tools I needed. And co-workers who knew much more than I did. It still stalled on hills, sudden stops, and would flood in freezing weather. I hope I wasn't too incompetent, but it just shouldn't have been that hard...

Anyway, the magazines and word of mouth says fuel-injection kit. At the time (93), I didn't do it because they were so expensive. Maybe it's come down since. I got my first fuel-injected 4.0 in a Cherokee, and became a convert.

The 1990 Wrangler was the last carbuerated passenger-vehicle sold in the US, for a reason...

tlcsjeep

Can anyone help with some links advice for "Hard to find"
parts? Just purchased a '90 wrangler in need of some work. It likes to throw the serpintine belt off backwards, which causes the belt to "score", then seperate. My local dealer is an Idiot, since the can't identify the parts that I have. I wonder if my water pump pulley is correct,( no part no.s)and I can't properly ID. the crank pulley. That pulley is the only one to appear out of alaignment, hence the throwing of the belt.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreiciated!

mac24

First you need to identify your engine. Wranglers were, and are, fitted with either a six or four cylinder. The I4 2.5 remained the same until around '03 when it was replaced by an I4 2.4. The earlier I6 was a 4.2 then became a 4.0, though basically the same engine, and continues to '06.

You might want to try another dealer, or perhaps you have a local 4x4 specialist?

drewmeister

Possibly balancer. http://www.1aauto.com/1A/HarmonicBalancer/Jeep/
A damaged balancer can cause rough engine vibrations or the potential for the crankshaft pulley to throw the serpentine belt off its track.

skyking49

When I brake at highway speeds or down an exit ramp the steering wheel vibrates...like the front-end is out of alignment. Once the brakes actually stuck a little for a sec. Haven't had that problem since however I still get the vibration under hard braking or even medium braking. No problems with braking driving around town. I have only put 1,000 mi. on it since I purchased it about 3 mo. ago. I hoped it was a "breaking in" problem, meaning it would sort itself out after some use. Wishful thinking maybe....just don't want to be without it. Any suggestions as to what the problem is and solution? TIA

mac24

Problem: possibly a sticking caliper or caliper piston.

Solution: let the dealer take care of it, it's an '06.

jeeptwo

In the event my 4 cyl. needs rebuilt, could I put a 350 V8 in and would I have to change the rear end and front end?....I am sure I would have to change out the transimission. Or would a 4.3 V6 be better suited for this jeep?

Mr_Shiftright

Here's a good website for you:

http://www.advanceadapters.com/index.html

Sorry but there is one pop-up.

Host

jeeptwo

Thanks for the link and info

jeeptwo

Thanks...this forum is great

wilful

Our 89 Wrangler has sporter doors which don't close tight. I'm a terrible mechanic, so would appreciate any detailed advice on fixing this.

Last time here - Oct '04 - you guys gave me good advice on glass windows - which we got and like a lot. Looking forward to hearing from you experts again.

Regards,

Will

ruthr

Hello,
I have a 92 Jeep Wrangler with leak at the transfer case and the differential (That is, two separate leaks). The transfer case leak seems to be from the area where the drive shaft enters. I was wondering if I could take out the shaft and the little "tower" and repair/replace the seal without removing the entire trans case. The differential is also leaking at the front nut not the usual back plate. Is there a seal behind that can be replaced? My manual indicates a torque of 250 ft/lbs on the front nut! Can that really be done? Thanks.