Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes, both can be done. If it's not clear from your manual, then it's probably worth $25 for a years subscription to the 'Factory Service Manual' at AllData.com for a detailed description of the procedures necessary.

    One trick that may help with the diff is to first clean the nut and threads on the pinion before removing the nut. Then mark the position of the nut relative to the pinion with a Sharpie or a paint pen. When reassembling, tighten the nut until it's just past it's original position. You'll probably need a long 'cheater bar' on your socket setup.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm not ignoring you, but I've no idea what 'sporter' doors are. Can you not adjust the striker plate on the body, which the door should close on to?
  • wilfulwilful Member Posts: 8
    Doors on which the top Metal part slopes down at an angle (going from front to back) then - levels to the back. No locks and came with canvas and plastic windows. Body side has a round bolt sticking out with several washers on it. Bolt(striker?)head has star indentation - into which I inserted a male star socket, but It won't turn. Suggestions?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like you have the factory original half doors. The striker bolt probably adjusts in a similar manner to most others of that type. The bolt should be threaded into a nut that's attached to a plate behind the closing panel. That plate will have a small range of lateral movement. Adjustment will involve slackening the striker bolt (more Wheaties!), moving it inward a little and retightening, repeat as necessary. Washers behind the bolt can be added or removed as necessary for correct mating with the door latch. Make sure you have the correct good quality star/spline tool.
  • wilfulwilful Member Posts: 8
    OK - that worked just fine. Doors close tight now.

    Thanks Mac
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Well, I was doing the full detail (I know, it's a Jeep and it's supposed to be dirty, but I've never had paint this nice before...) and I discovered what may be a problem. I have lots of small areas similar to stone chips on the side edges of the hood where the paint has flaked off. I believe they aren't stone chips, as I have some of those on the grille and hood leading edge, and these are different. Also, three small areas of "crosshatch" pattern on the surface of the hood. I'd say they're a couple inches wide. Looks like a bunch of tiny little cuts in the paint in perfect X's. I can't find this anywhere else on the body, just the hood. Do I have a paint warranty issue?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes, it's a problem called "checking". The paint is shrinking abnormally would be my guess due to bad prep work on the assembly line (possibly). Another possibility is that something nasty and chemical was spilled on it.
  • bongobobbongobob Member Posts: 3
    my 98 tj rear door hardly opens and closes , due to corrosion in the hinges... I have tried lubercating ... I thing I need to remove the pins in the hinges .. but don,t know how... do I beat them out???
    I hope someone can give me some advice... I just want to get the door to function freely..

    bob
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Try using PB Blaster. Several applications will be needed. Thoroughly soak the hinges, leave overnight then work the door back and forth in the morning. Re-soak, then leave until the evening and repeat. Continue the cycle for a week or until the hinges free up. It will help to have the spare wheel mounted on the door, as the additional weight will help when working it back and forth.
  • bongobobbongobob Member Posts: 3
    There must a few ways to remove these hinge pins...

    maybe a drive pin????

    If anyone has any advice I would love to hear it...

    I am currently lubing every day with PB and trying to work it in.. by stroking the door open and close
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The hinge pins aren't available as a separate item, so be careful. You can use a parallel punch to drive the pin out, though be sure to support the hinge casting as it's easy to break. A better method would be to use a press. Either way you'll need to use heat. Personally, I'd stick with the PB Blaster for a while.
  • bongobobbongobob Member Posts: 3
    I think I will stick to the pb blaster... the last thing I want to do , are use my torches... I don,t want to take any more paint of the hinge , and the heat would burn up paint

    bob
  • babe8256babe8256 Member Posts: 6
    There would appear to be a fluid leaking from the cooling system area, once the area was looked at, what looked like a bolt came off, but it had no screw on the the end, looks like a cap.

    Can anyone help, if so could I possibly email you the images of the area for you to look at?

    or put the pictures on a thread? Not quite sure how to do this though. Thank you all for your help">
  • glassgirlglassgirl Member Posts: 8
    Hello,
    I just bought this jeep and was wondering about the gas mileage. So far, it is not doing good at all. I Was wondering what gas mileage yall get in yours. I am getting around 6-7 miles to the gallon now. Could there be a problem?
    Thanks so much in advance!!
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Jeeps don't get good gas mileage, though yours does sound lower than normal. I can get as much as 18-20 mpg with all highway and more downhill than uphill. In town I get about 14. Off road in 4WD will lower that even more. Add any wind or over 70 mph driving and my figures go down several mpg.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You really do need to post a photo of the area you're trying to describe. Either post a link to your photo hosting site, or go here for instructions to post them in a thread.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You should get at least double that, unless you've got big wheels and the gearing hasn't been corrected.
  • babe8256babe8256 Member Posts: 6
    I have re posted my question along with images (FINGERS CROSSED) There would appear to be a fluid leaking from the cooling system area, once the area was looked at, what looked like a bolt came off, but it had no screw on the the end, looks like a cap.
    Can anyone help,

    http://www.carspace.com/babe8256/?50@">@.59a4aced#pic

    http://www.carspace.com/babe8256/?50@@.59a4aced#pic

    http://www.carspace.com/babe8256/?50@@.59a4aced#pic

    Can anyone click on the above links? I am having trouble putting my images on to the post
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The links are going to your album but not to the individual photos. But it's close enough. :shades:

    If you go to each photo and then right click > properties (for Windows anyway), you will get a better URL. Your first one would look like this:

    http://www.carspace.com/babe8256/.59a4acf1!v=

    Steve, Host
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I've put the best pic up for you. The item with the hole and lots of white corrosion is the thermostat housing. It's made of an aluminum alloy casting and gets eaten away from the inside. Treat your Jeep to a new one, together with a new thermostat and gasket, plus a new heater hose (that's the small one). It would also be a good time to drain, flush, and refill the cooling system. None of the above are expensive. I'm not sure what the blanking plug was for, but you may well find that the new housing doesn't even have that threaded hole.

    Finally, the front bolt of your exhaust manifold is missing and it would be a good idea to get that taken care of soon.

    Good luck!

    image
  • bartgbartg Member Posts: 1
    My speedometer works intermittently. I have a 92 wrangler 4l. Laredo edition. There is no rime or reason that i can see. The tachometer still works but the dial for my speed cuts out without reason. Sometime it works other times it comes back on after diving around. Could it be a bad power our ground problem :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I think (though I'm not 100% sure), the your speedo is electronic rather than mechanical. If that is the case then yes, it could be a bad wire or connection, either power or ground. First place to look is at the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Also consider that the problem might lay within the VSS itself.
  • jbc1384jbc1384 Member Posts: 2
    Help Please. I own an 98 Jeep Wrangler 4 Clyn. Recently a squeaking noise has been coming from the belt area. It would start only after the car had been running for 5 to 10 min. but would stop whenever i pressed the gas pedal. Also it would take my car forever to come back down to idle after i had been driving. Most recently though, the car feels as though it will stall out when i first start it. I have the clutch pressed down but still it feels as though it wants to stall out.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Have you checked your serpentine belt? The tensioner may need adjusting and you may need to get a new belt.

    tidester, host
  • glassgirlglassgirl Member Posts: 8
    That's just it, I don't have the big tires on it, although I wish that I did. I don't romp on it either, just generally good driving and mostly in town with the windows down and no a/c going either. What should I ask for when I call the shop and tell them I am having a problem with. I have this thing still under warranty.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Just tell them that you're getting literally half the expected mpg. With as poor a figure as you're getting it should be fairly easy to find the problem. It's probably running too rich a fuel mixture, which can be caused by anything from a clogged air filter to a faulty sensor. However, it could also be something mechanical, such as a binding brake.
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    Hi I just purchased a new 05 Wrangler X with automatic.The Jeep works great except there is a horrible smell when crusing with open windows. The smell is like that of burning axel lube (90 wt. stuff) and is horrible. I get sick smelling it. The Jeep is 2 weeks old and has 300 miles on it. Is this normal with a new Jeep? Will it go away at some point? There is no leaks and the smell is not there when idling- only on the freeway at speed. If I close the windows I dont smell anything, except the new car smells, but I like having the windows open and eventually the top off. Is this normal or should i take it to a dealer? Thanks for your help
    Tommy
  • shirleyashirleya Member Posts: 1
    Re; 2000 Wrangler Sport...we put 31 x 10.50 x 15 tires on it, which are 1 inch larger than what they came with. Tire center plus 2 dealerships say this is within acceptable range but the extended warranty rep has denied the repair on the blown :mad: transfer case because supposedly "the tires are too big". Anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the extended warranty to pay?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    No, it's not normal (surprise answer huh!). It's not normal on an old Jeep either. If it was a little oil that had been spilled on the exhaust it would have burned off by now.

    So yes, take it to a dealer and have it taken care of under warranty.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's a difficult one to argue I'm afraid. Rubicons have 31's as standard equipment, but they use a different transfer case. I would 100% guarantee that the tires didn't cause your t/c problem, but proving a negative is rather difficult.

    Extended warranty companies are 'for profit' organizations that generally won't pay if they can avoid it. The exceptions tend to be those affiliated with the major manufacturers.

    There's lots of sad tales from angry people elsewhere on Edmunds in the warranty specific discussions. :(
  • jbc1384jbc1384 Member Posts: 2
    Yeah i tightened the belt and its almost brand new.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    In that case remove the belt and check the pulleys. The most likely candidate is the bearing on the idler.
  • babe8256babe8256 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks guys for your help

    Mac24 - Where is your location? are you in America? or UK? Thank you so very much for your advice, has made things much clearer. Have you any advice where or what sort of place I could purchase these items? Im am very lost. I am in the UK. Thanks again
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I haven't been in the UK for some time now, but I don't think you'll find the parts you need in the local Halfords, you'll need a main dealer. Obviously, Jeeps are far more common here in the US so you might want to consider mail order.

    For instance, 4wd.com list the thermostat housing (fits both 4.0 and 2,5) for $12.99 (I'm not sure which engine you have). They'll ship to the UK so check them out, and your dealer too, then see which will be the quickest and cheapest way to go. Here's the link for the housing: 4WD.com t/stat housing.

    It may be possible to salvage the parts you have, but it would only last a limited time. Good luck.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Very true, very true. Much of my job as a service writer involved haggling with extended warranty companies to get them to cover repairs. If they didn't pay, I didn't get paid, so I can tell you it was frustrating when they would disagree with the flavor of air-freshener and turn everything down. These guys are trained to look for oversize tires or custom wheels as a sign that you're abusing the vehicle. It's all a game.

    You may have to follow their arbitration procedures, if they have them. (Check your original paperwork.) This would allow you to bring in another party to make the final decision. What I would recommend is writing to the makers of the transfer case (the old New Process/New Venture was acquired by Magna powertrain). Go to their site and check the contact section: http://www.magnadrivetrain.com/
  • theingtheing Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Wrangler TJ and the passenger seat fold & tumble quit working. All it does is slide back and forth like driver's seat. I don't see any loose cables or anything out of place. I can reach under the seat and trip the lever that activates the fold & tumble. Anyone have any idea what is wrong or how to fix it. It makes for a tough rear seat entry with out the fold and tumble. Thanks, Ray
  • babe8256babe8256 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks again, will try that website. :)
  • glassgirlglassgirl Member Posts: 8
    I am now finding another problem, my back seat will not stay connected to the bar on the floor. What are we doing wrong or what are we not doing to keep it connected? I need to know as my son rides back there. Thanks in advance
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You may be missing the 'R' clips that go through each end of the seat pivot rod. The clips stop it sliding out sideways from the location brackets. You could just use a piece of thin wire as a substitute until you get the correct items.
  • glassgirlglassgirl Member Posts: 8
    Thanks so much for the information. I am finding these things as I go along. The previous owner contacted me yesterday saying he had the soft top that came with it for $200. My hubby is fixing to call the dealership and get the gas mileage checked. He said he found a wet spot where I had parked yesterday and I do not run the a/c so I know it wasn't that. Thanks once again.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    On my 2000 wrangler the clips do not fit through a hole, they fit in a small groove cut around the rod or shaft. If you need to buy them, my dealer wanted a little over $3.00 each for them. You can get them at most hardware stores for about $0.15. Also on mine, there are two rods protruding out the sides of the seat pretty close together (if you are installing the seat folded) be sure to insert the longer one in the brackets.

    Terry
  • mmitschmmitsch Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sahara and the AC is not working. Any advice any of you have would be most welcome. I am hoping this is just a refrigerant leak. If not, I need to figure out what is needed. If anybody has good leads on copmressors and filter driers please let me know.

    Look forward to your responses!

    Mike
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    No a/c could range from a refrigerant leak, to a bad electrical connection to the compressor clutch, to almost anything in between. It's probably worth spending a few bucks for diagnosis at your local independent a/c specialist.
  • waxjeep2005waxjeep2005 Member Posts: 2
    A few months back I purchased a 2005 Jeep Wrangler X Hard Top with 6 cyl. I have notived that my right foot on the gas pedal get hot while driving with the a/c running. I felt down to the floor vent and its discharging hot air out of the vent even when the top vents are only supposed to be operating. The a/c blows very cold and that is not a problem but I am tired of my feet feeling hot!! Took it to the dealed this week and was told that the vehicle is designed to do this and states that this come from the Chrysler engineers. Does this sound correct and has anybody else noticed this issue. It seems counter productive anyway for the flooor vents to be blowing very hot air when I am trying to cool down the vehicle with the a/c. Any help appreciated.....Thanks :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds an unlikely 'feature'. Certainly, earlier models aren't designed that way. You say it happens when the 'top vents only' are selected. 'Top vents only' selection applies to both external air and recirculate. Does it still vent hot air to the footwell on recirculate? If so it can't be a 'feature', as in that position air is drawn into the HVAC unit from the footwell for more efficient cooling. Venting hot air there would rather defeat the purpose.

    Usual fix is to replace a faulty vacuum actuator, or broken control rod, or sticking diverter door.
  • waxjeep2005waxjeep2005 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info, it does it on all settings and I have been keeping on dual floor/top vents to try and regulate the air but the bottom is still warm. I will talk with the service manager tomorrow and see what he says with the info you gave me or I might have to try another dealership.
    Thanks again......
  • colpeppercolpepper Member Posts: 1
    We just bought an 06 and am having the same problem. Did you get a solution from the dealer?
  • glassgirlglassgirl Member Posts: 8
    well, we took my jeep to the local dodge dealer this morning to get this checked out. I miss it already. We shall see what they say. I was trying to tell them that it also looked like the differential oil thing was leaking as well. Other than these things, I love my new jeep. Just wish that I had a lift on it, but in time, when money is better, maybe that will happen.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    They had to replace both front routers which solved the problem. Odd that it would happen on a new 06.
  • bstinsonbstinson Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler and my extended warranty just expired. There is a sound from the rear end. I hear it mainly when I let off the gas and when I am going 15-45 MPH. It is kind of a grinding noise.

    Does anyone have any clue about this?
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