The 2010 Outback 2.5i CVT just won another SUV of the year (under $35K) award from the Canadian Automotive Journalists. It's competition was the Chevy Equinox & Toyota Venza.
Sales in Oct O9 up 40% over Oct 08. Obviously Subaru has a real winner in this car. Getting acolades from both the press and owners & selling 40% more than last year.
Don't expect any great rebates or bargins soon on this rig!
It's funny because a lot of the old school Subie die-hards were actually upset about these models moving more towards the mainstream, but you can't argue with the sales success.
Question - the OB's Navi doesn't have text-to-speech, but does the Tribeca's? What about the Forester's?
I have to disagree a bit with the statement above about the clearance around the wheel arch on the 2010 Outback being enormous.
If you look more closely at the wheel arches, there is a lot of clearance above the wheels to accommodate a lot of vertical motion/travel of the wheels. But there is not much clearance in front of, and behind, the wheels. (As you are looking at a rear wheel, to the front of the car, and to the rear of the car.) This is especially true for the rear wheel openings, where the space in front of the wheel is very tight. (So much so that you need very low-clearance cable-chains if you want to put them on the rear wheels.)
The front wheel arches have somewhat more "fore and aft" room, but it is still relatively tight in these directions, compared to the generous room for vertical wheel travel.
I would be very reluctant to go to a wheel/tire combination with larger outside diameter, especially if you will ever want/need to use snow chains of any kind.
BLUETOOTH UPDATE: I have isolated the problem and found a temporary workaround to the poor Bluetooth audio quality, and I'm planning on doing some more tests with other phones to see if it is a compatibility issue with Windows Mobile 6 smartphones (both my wife and I have Motorola Q9's but on different carriers) or still something with the nav.
After I initiate or receive a call, if I press the "speaker" button to send the audio to the handset (turning off the speakers), and then press it again to return audio back through the nav speakers, callers on the other end report a major improvement in quality! Something with tearing down and reinitiatializing the bluetooth stream fixes the problem -- until the next call.
Clear bras seem like a great idea but here's my experience. First they usually cost an arm and a leg to buy! Then, should a rock or sand hit them (which they usually miss hitting the bra surface despite it's presents) they tear up the surface of the bra making it rough. Eventually it looks tattered!. I've found touchup paint to do as well, if not better, as a bra and show less flaws.
I installed a clear bra on my 04 WRX immediately after buying it new...and after living with it for a short while, I decided it was a huge waste of money, in my opinion. I commute quite a bit on the mountain passes near Lake Tahoe, so in the winter there is all sorts of gravel and debris that gets kicked up -- hence my wanting some sort of protection on the front.
The problem with the 3m film that is applied to the car is that it develops "pits" in it just like the paint would if it were unprotected, so when you wax the car those pits in the film fill with wax and turn white. At this point, the front of the car looked the same as it would have had I not spent the $1000 for the bra. Sure, the paint under the film was likely okay, but unless you plan on shelling out some serious cash to replace the film every few years, then you might as well just use a traditional "black" vinyl bra (or just accept the reality that cars will get blemishes).
One upside, however, is that when I sold the car after a few years, the guy who bought it was excited to learn that it had the clear bra on it, and that the ugly pits all over the front *could* be removed simply by removing the film. Still, I'll never go to that expense again...I'll just keep using the black vinyl bras (at a fraction of the price) during the winter and do my best to keep the underside clean.
We're finally in the process of buying a 2010 Outback 2.5 Ltd w nav and sunroof. I'm considering other options and accessories. It is equipped with the conv and protection group 1B, wheel arch moldings, splash guards, rr bumper cover, auto dim mirror/comp, aw floor mats.
What other options are worthwhile such as remote start, media hub, satellite radio xm vs sirius, puddle lights, bumper underguard, sill plates illum, nets?
Thanks for opinions, it has been 8 years since the last new subie.
We went with the "homelink" garage door opener since our last 3 cars have had it and it beats having the clickers on the visors, and the media hub because (even though I don't have an iPod yet) it seems like it's "expected". Even Ford advertises having it on their lower priced units. If I were still in sales I'd probably have xm radio but I can't justify it, particularly when I can download some of my favorite radio programs onto my (not yet owned) iPod.
I've had the cargo nets in my last two cars and feel they're worthwhile, not sure where they mount in the Outback, our is a Legacy. I got the cargo tray too because when I take off my ski boots that'll protect the carpet in the trunk.
I'd got the interior illumination option instead of the sill plates illumination. Of course you can also simply get both options but remember each front door has a downward facing light so, along with puddle lights, illuminated sill plates are IMO a bit of an overkill.
One option you didn't list: a trailer hitch. The factory install is very clean and professional. I got one so I could easily carry bicycles.
My Legacy is off lease in several weeks. I'm still trying to decide where to go. I don't want the OB. I love the legacy wagon, but it's gone, da__ them! So I'm looking at the Forester (which I'm surprised to find gets poorer gas mileage than the Legacy sedan), a VW Golf TDI, and a friend is saying I should consider the Ford Escape, though it's a real out and out SUV. I'm not in love with any of them. The VW gets very good reviews, but it's not AWD. There's also the Volvo v50 t5, but that's a lot of money, too. So I'm still trying to solve the puzzle. I'm upset about their cancelling the legacy wagon, and the OB has too many compromises from what they had before. cdndriver
I'm interested in hearing what you decide, because with no more Subaru station wagons, I honestly don't know what I'd do if I had to buy another car right now. Good luck with your decision.
Thanks for the replies. Generally the cost for dealer added accessories jacks up the price considerably over factory installed. Any accessories I add would be dealer installed since I am buying from dealer stock. I'm thinking of ordering from http://www.subarupartsmall.com/default.php?cPath=27_89&sort=3a&page=2.
On my '98 Forester I think I had every accessory in the book. The instructions are usually not good - you can tell it was translated. But you can figure it out fairly easily. I managed every time.
When many of the portable GPS systems such as Garmin say they are voice activated, they mean that they have speech recognition. The Subie salesperson says this is not the case on the 2010 Outback Nav. She claims voice activated in this case means it speaks only, not recognizes speech. Can anyone confirm?
See you have no reply, Voice activated should mean you speak to it - text to speech is the other way around and as mentioned by your dealer. There are posts by Nav owners in other OB sections - I suggest looking / posting there.
I have 2010 OB with Nav. It recognizes certain voice commands from me. I press a button on the steering wheel & say for example, " Find restaurant" or "call by number" & I'll get restaurant choices on the screen or I can make a phone call. The voice command system is hit or miss, frequently not recognizing my commands. I hope I get more use out of it as I get more familiar with it.
I was looking at standalone Garmin units and user forums said they had the same issues with recognizing voice commands, so it appears a common issue.
When I got my first car with Onstar I learned that you have to pronounce your words very carefully (almost clip your words) and then the commands are understood. Its also related to ambient road noise.
I had just that experience with my Garmin over the Thanksgiving holiday. It was hit-or-miss in terms of voice commands. It's really a problem if your car has a lot of road noise, as my WRX has. I suspect the "quieter" the car, the less this will be a problem.
Worse still, if it has trouble with your voice command, you end up repeating it several times, which means your concentration is on the phone—and not on driving. This will surely become a hot-button issue with safety advocates, as this is an accident waiting to happen.
I have since learned to pick my driving spots very carefully (low traffic, straight and flat roads, etc.) when trying to use the voice prompt feature. One can only hope and pray other users will do likewise.
LOL, I was about to send you a link to this thread.
I believe bluetooth just sends the audio to your phone. So if your phone accepts voice dialing, like my BlackBerry 8900 does, it can't be any better than the phone, though you'd hope it would be as good.
I just placed an order for a 2010 Outback 3.6R limited. I came across some posts on another forum. Some owner of 2010 Outback (especially 3.6R) complain about the following two issues.
1. Shaking steering wheel when driving on 65-75mph
2. Hesitation when accelerating from low speeds
I wonder if any of you guys have experienced similar issues or you are happy with your all new OB?
I am also in the process of placing an order for 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited and I need to know about that issue (if it is an issue or wheel balance)... As an FYI, I drove the 2010 Outback 2.5i CVT and noticed the shaking of the steering wheel more or less at the same speed around 60-70mph and I told the sales person the wheels might need balance but not sure now if that is the actual cause...
I sympathize as there is nothing bothers me more than steering wheel pull or vibration at speed whether it be caused by alignment, wheels, tires or whatever.
I always test drive the car that I am buying before closing the deal to ensure there are none of these symptoms. In the old days the dealer would claim it was a tire, and the tire maker would claim it was the car, and you the buyer were caught in the middle and often without resolution. That pass the buck mindset stung me one time and I ended up selling the car because it was never resolved. I will always thoroughly check out the car before I agree to the purchase.
For the record I just bought a new 2010 2.5 Ltd OB w Nav,SR etc and it runs smooth as glass up to 140mph (just kidding on the 140, actually it was 165mph LOL). Obviously I'm failing to be funny, but truthfully it runs very smooth at highway speeds 75-80.
I just ordered a 2.5i Limited with a remote starter. Anyone else have one? What should I expect? Will the standard key fob operate the RS with some kind of double push? Or does it come with a different remote that will also operate the doors? If the remote is different is it bigger? I don't want to regret ordering this option and there is still time to change.
it is nice to have i wish i had ordered it on mine instead now i have to pay 350 for the start and 150 for install they did tell me at dealer new for 2010 when you use remote start when you open the door to get in it turns off the engine so you have to restart it also the key with the locks will continue to work but the remote start is a seperate fob that just has the start on it hope this helps jt
My wife's 09 Legacy has the remote start and she loves it. It comes with a separate remote which is very small. You press the button twice on the remote start fob and the engine starts after about 5 seconds. When you get to the car, you open the door via the standard key fob. Get in the car and turn the key to the on position without touching the brake pedal. If you touch the brake, the engine will stop. Then you start driving. I believe that the engine will shut off after about 10 minutes if you don't get in and turn the key.
I thought I had read a post on here a month or so ago regarding a specific break in method on the CVT but just did a search and didn't see it. My owner's manual didn't show anything and the salesman kind of had a blank look when I asked him.
I'm planning on a 380 mile road trip in about a month and doubt that I'll have more than 400-500 on the clock when I take off on that trip. On my wife's car it said "don't drive at a constant speed for more than one hour at a stretch", or something like that, which was kind of a PITA as we left on a 1000 mile road trip the day after picking that car up. I'll probably do something similar here but would like some feedback from the rest of you.
BTW, it's a 2.5 Legacy, and we really love it after the first week.
i have been getting about 27 mpg combined on my new subi thats what it says the the average mpg read out when i fill it up and do my own callculations it always seems like a mile to mile and a half less im just wondering does anyone know which is more accurate my calculations after fill up or the read out
also should i get the remote start for 350 plus 150 install at subaru or do an oafter makrket one cheaper i do know i loose the key fob then if i do after market and i heard the 2010 when you open the door after starting with the remote start the engine turns off and yo uhave to restart it
any ideas
finally i have had my 10 legacy for a month now and have had no problems and i am enjoying it jt
The actual calculations are going to be more accurate than the onboard computer. Your mileage should increase after you get a few more miles on it, maybe over 5,000 it'll be "broken in".
The only thing I'll say regarding the remote start is this; many people in my neighborhood start their cars and then let them run for 5 or more minutes before driving off. That's NOT GOOD for an engine. I believe your manual says to start and then drive off within a minute. Letting an engine idle WITH NO LOAD ON IT doesn't really help it warm up. I'd say driving the 250 yards from my house to the nearest stop sign warms up the engine more than 5 minutes of idling.
Well, to be devil's advocate here, if the engine is running, it is going to "warm up" in a strict sense of the phrase. Whether it warms up enough to heat the interior will depend on the make/model and ambient temperature. For instance, my Forester (2.5L PZEV) will warm up enough with five minutes of idling to heat the interior at least 30 degrees above ambient when the outside temperature is -10F. My '98 Escort could idle all day at that ambient temperature and the air blowing out the vent would not be perceived as warm.
I am not an advocate of "warming up" a car. I get in, start it, and go. My wife, on the other hand, loves pre-heating. With our young children in carseats, that method is useful due to them otherwise needing to be heavily bundled when they get in the car, which makes effective buckling difficult, plus they overheat once the interior does warm up. Given how fast the PZEV warms up, I ask my wife not to let it run more than 2-3 minutes before she is moving, but she (of course) ignores me. I'd say it more likely runs for up to ten minutes (or more). We pay for that, though. With the short trips she is taking right now (about ten miles round-trip), we are getting 19-20 mpg. *sigh*
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I have had my 2010 Outback 2.5 Limited for 2 weeks now and love it. There is one issue that is making me crazy. The audio system is terrible. I've had it back to the dealer to check the speakers and radio reception and have been told the system is working as designed. I get poor fm and am radio reception and sound quality is fair at best. Anyone else having this issue? Any suggestions?
I have a 3.6R Limited (same H-K stereo), and my perception is that the AM sound/reception is poor (very muddy/muffled sounding), the FM reception is pretty decent, and the sound quality with CDs and with my iPod is good.
I did think that the bass was too heavy with the default tone settings. I've got mine set to +2 for the treble, +1 for the midrange, and -2 for the bass, which sounds about right (to me, anyway) for CDs and AUX input. These settings also help the AM sound somewhat. But my feeling is that the AM tuner section is pretty poor.
I wish that the tone settings could be set separately for the different sources/inputs, but I think that the settings apply identically to all inputs.
I'd like to install satellite radio in my wife's 2010 OB. No one seems to know exactly what it would cost but the estimates are high. Would it make sense to buy the kit separately and ask a dealer to install it? Or would you trust a car-stereo place, given that they're probably unfamiliar with such a new model? There appear to be many options, but the only ones that sound good seem expensive.
The oil change interval on the 2.5i with CVT as stated in the manual is every 7500 miles. Doesn't that seem too long? Does Subaru use synthetic oil? I am very leery about going 7500 on just regular oil. I can't find anything about the CVT maintenance interval. Does the CVT use synthetic fluid?
> Doesn't that seem too long? Does Subaru use synthetic oil? I am very leery about going 7500 on just regular oil. I can't find anything about the CVT maintenance interval. Does the CVT use synthetic fluid?
That's because you and most everyone else have been successfully brainwashed by the oil companies and quick lubes to believe that you must change your oil every 3,000 miles. Most manufacturers have been recommending 7500 mile intervals under "normal" use for years and years, with regular dino oil.
The Outback CVT does not require any maintenance for the life of the car, under "normal" use. It's in the manual. Not bad, eh?
ok after researching and th ehigh prices subaru wants i just did it myself with a portable ok its not as nice as having it in the radio but it works went to best buy bought the sirius starmate 6 i think it was sale for 49 bucks into car put the radsio where you want i hooked up atena to sit on dash near drivers passenger side inside rin the wire easily under dash up side of dah under rubber and it sits without moving right up against window
the other wires went right into thte console where there is the jack you ;ug the one end of cable into the radio the other into the jack in storage console and also the outlet for power is right in the console too perfect crystal clear reception not aalot of wires (i put my radio colse the cup holders) and its a fine and perect just swwitch radio to aux and the sirius is playing you can adust volume from steering wheel too just not change the sirius channels but no biggie for me since i usually listen to the same channels
total cost 49.99 plus tax sure beats 475 plus tax hope this helps really really easy to do
What are the all season tires that come on the 2010 Legacy and how are they in snow now that some of us have had some snow on the ground? I've not had to change to winter tires on a Forester that I used to have nor on an awd Ford 500. I live in Upstate NY and am considering a new legacy. Thanks for any info.
I have a 2007 legacy wagon, I switched to winter tires after sliding around on the all seasons. IMHO there just isn't any comparison to winter tires on the subarus. The vital thing they do is stop you. All seasons can get you going all right, but where they didn't work for me was stopping. I slid into several intersections while going slowly and they just didn't grip. With the snows, I get great traction AND stopping power which is what I'm really concerned about. I urge you to get snow tires, they're well worth it I think. cdndriver.
Just don't do any hard acceleration (don't bottom the gas pedal or bring the rpm over 4k) in 1st 1,000 mi, you would be OK.
From the manual of my 07 Outback ...
New vehicle break-in driving – the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) The performance and long life of your vehicle are dependent on how you handle and care for your vehicle while it is new. Follow these instructions during the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km): . Do not race the engine. And do not allow engine speed to exceed 4,000 rpm except in an emergency. . Do not drive at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or slow. . Avoid starting suddenly and rapid acceleration, except in an emergency. . Avoid hard braking, except in an emergency. The same break-in procedures should be applied to a newly installed or overhauled engine or when brake pads or brake linings are replaced with new ones.
My dealer installed RS uses the key fobs that come with the car. You press a combination of buttons to start the car. What I didn't know was that you LOOSE THE VALET KEY that comes with the car. My understanding is that the valet key is installed inside a box under the car and is needed for this dealer's installed RS option. Does anyone know if this dealer installed option voids the electrical system warranty? It sounds like the installation cuts into the cars wiring?
I'm trying to decide between a 2.5 CVT Premium or Limited. Two questions if I may.
1- Does the cruise control on the 2.5 CVT do OK up and down rolling hills? The CVT in my current Prius is all over the place and can't hold a steady speed.
2- What do you think about the Limited climate control? Consumer Reports was very critical about prior Subaru model's automatic climate control reporting that the temperatures varied dramatically. Is the temperature well regulated or do you experience hot air for awhile then cold air to compensate?
Any comments from your experiences on Limited vs Premium will be greatly appreciated.
We just drove our from the front range up to Vail last week and thought the cruise on our Legacy was as good as on my old Maxima or my wife's Lexus. It's funny to watch the "slight" variations in RPM on the more gradual hills though. We're going to Estes Park later this week and I have a feeling that on that hill, steep then gradual, we might just use the "manual" option and put it in 4th.
I can't say that I really noticed anything on the climate control, so it was either doing really well or whatever wasn't working right wasn't noticeable. I'll pay more attention this week. I do know that it didn't blow hot then cold, I'd have noticed that as it was between 0 and -15 (F) for the entire 2 1/2 hour drive.
If you're set on the CVT then I'd go for the Limited. Given all the extras you get: leather seats, faux-wood grain trim, power passenger seat, upgraded HVAC with two additional fan speeds, all-weather package, HK audio w/bluetooth, and the option to select the navigation/back-up camera. Just getting leather alone makes it worthwhile. I wanted the 6-speed manual so I'm quite aware of what I had abandon in return.
I have had automatic climate control in two cars: 03 Forester & 04 Audi A4. In my opinion, it sucked on both cars. In both cases, it seems that either climate control blows either hot or cold with no such thing as "a bit warmer or a touch cooler". After 30 minutes the auto climate control usually settles in OK, but it is still a challenge to make subtle changes. I much perfer the simple lever that can be slid over to warmer or cooler as found in most cars from my 1963 Ford Galaxie to my Honda del Sol. But, the auto climate control has somehow gotten a "deluxe" cache & more & more manufacturers are using in. The 2010 OB we have on order will come with auto climate control & I hope that it works better than my previous ones.!
Comments
The clearance around the wheel arch on the 2010 is quite enormous - I see your point with use of wider tires/ rims if the offset was not considered.
http://www.ajac.ca/web/ccoty/2010/c...gory.asp?cat=73
http://www.ajac.ca/web/ccoty/vehicle.asp?eid=399
Sales in Oct O9 up 40% over Oct 08. Obviously Subaru has a real winner in this car. Getting acolades from both the press and owners & selling 40% more than last year.
Don't expect any great rebates or bargins soon on this rig!
It's the raised stance. Not a whole lot you can do.
Show her the other rims in the catalog, see if she thinks any of those looks better.
It's funny because a lot of the old school Subie die-hards were actually upset about these models moving more towards the mainstream, but you can't argue with the sales success.
Question - the OB's Navi doesn't have text-to-speech, but does the Tribeca's? What about the Forester's?
Strange that they have 3 different Nav units, no?
If you look more closely at the wheel arches, there is a lot of clearance above the wheels to accommodate a lot of vertical motion/travel of the wheels. But there is not much clearance in front of, and behind, the wheels. (As you are looking at a rear wheel, to the front of the car, and to the rear of the car.) This is especially true for the rear wheel openings, where the space in front of the wheel is very tight. (So much so that you need very low-clearance cable-chains if you want to put them on the rear wheels.)
The front wheel arches have somewhat more "fore and aft" room, but it is still relatively tight in these directions, compared to the generous room for vertical wheel travel.
I would be very reluctant to go to a wheel/tire combination with larger outside diameter, especially if you will ever want/need to use snow chains of any kind.
No better example than my Miata - even the big 17" rims look small due to the fender flares:
After I initiate or receive a call, if I press the "speaker" button to send the audio to the handset (turning off the speakers), and then press it again to return audio back through the nav speakers, callers on the other end report a major improvement in quality! Something with tearing down and reinitiatializing the bluetooth stream fixes the problem -- until the next call.
Stay tuned.
The problem with the 3m film that is applied to the car is that it develops "pits" in it just like the paint would if it were unprotected, so when you wax the car those pits in the film fill with wax and turn white. At this point, the front of the car looked the same as it would have had I not spent the $1000 for the bra. Sure, the paint under the film was likely okay, but unless you plan on shelling out some serious cash to replace the film every few years, then you might as well just use a traditional "black" vinyl bra (or just accept the reality that cars will get blemishes).
One upside, however, is that when I sold the car after a few years, the guy who bought it was excited to learn that it had the clear bra on it, and that the ugly pits all over the front *could* be removed simply by removing the film. Still, I'll never go to that expense again...I'll just keep using the black vinyl bras (at a fraction of the price) during the winter and do my best to keep the underside clean.
Cheers,
Brian
What other options are worthwhile such as remote start, media hub, satellite radio xm vs sirius, puddle lights, bumper underguard, sill plates illum, nets?
Thanks for opinions, it has been 8 years since the last new subie.
I've had the cargo nets in my last two cars and feel they're worthwhile, not sure where they mount in the Outback, our is a Legacy. I got the cargo tray too because when I take off my ski boots that'll protect the carpet in the trunk.
easypar
One option you didn't list: a trailer hitch. The factory install is very clean and professional. I got one so I could easily carry bicycles.
cdndriver
Also the installation manuals are available on-line here http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/ixSearchFree.jsp?text_keyword=&keyword=&publicat- - ion_type=12&free_pub=13 so you can decide whether you want to do the install job yourself.
Or maybe call a different dealer?
When I got my first car with Onstar I learned that you have to pronounce your words very carefully (almost clip your words) and then the commands are understood. Its also related to ambient road noise.
Worse still, if it has trouble with your voice command, you end up repeating it several times, which means your concentration is on the phone—and not on driving. This will surely become a hot-button issue with safety advocates, as this is an accident waiting to happen.
I have since learned to pick my driving spots very carefully (low traffic, straight and flat roads, etc.) when trying to use the voice prompt feature. One can only hope and pray other users will do likewise.
Bob
I believe bluetooth just sends the audio to your phone. So if your phone accepts voice dialing, like my BlackBerry 8900 does, it can't be any better than the phone, though you'd hope it would be as good.
I just placed an order for a 2010 Outback 3.6R limited. I came across some posts on another forum. Some owner of 2010 Outback (especially 3.6R) complain about the following two issues.
1. Shaking steering wheel when driving on 65-75mph
2. Hesitation when accelerating from low speeds
I wonder if any of you guys have experienced similar issues or you are happy with your all new OB?
Thanks a lot!
David :confuse:
Let us know, thanks!
I always test drive the car that I am buying before closing the deal to ensure there are none of these symptoms. In the old days the dealer would claim it was a tire, and the tire maker would claim it was the car, and you the buyer were caught in the middle and often without resolution. That pass the buck mindset stung me one time and I ended up selling the car because it was never resolved. I will always thoroughly check out the car before I agree to the purchase.
For the record I just bought a new 2010 2.5 Ltd OB w Nav,SR etc and it runs smooth as glass up to 140mph (just kidding on the 140, actually it was 165mph LOL). Obviously I'm failing to be funny, but truthfully it runs very smooth at highway speeds 75-80.
they did tell me at dealer new for 2010 when you use remote start when you open the door to get in it turns off the engine so you have to restart it
also the key with the locks will continue to work but the remote start is a seperate fob that just has the start on it
hope this helps
jt
Phil
I'm planning on a 380 mile road trip in about a month and doubt that I'll have more than 400-500 on the clock when I take off on that trip. On my wife's car it said "don't drive at a constant speed for more than one hour at a stretch", or something like that, which was kind of a PITA as we left on a 1000 mile road trip the day after picking that car up. I'll probably do something similar here but would like some feedback from the rest of you.
BTW, it's a 2.5 Legacy, and we really love it after the first week.
easypar
im just wondering does anyone know which is more accurate my calculations after fill up or the read out
also should i get the remote start for 350 plus 150 install at subaru or do an oafter makrket one cheaper
i do know i loose the key fob then if i do after market
and i heard the 2010 when you open the door after starting with the remote start the engine turns off and yo uhave to restart it
any ideas
finally i have had my 10 legacy for a month now and have had no problems and i am enjoying it
jt
The only thing I'll say regarding the remote start is this; many people in my neighborhood start their cars and then let them run for 5 or more minutes before driving off. That's NOT GOOD for an engine. I believe your manual says to start and then drive off within a minute. Letting an engine idle WITH NO LOAD ON IT doesn't really help it warm up. I'd say driving the 250 yards from my house to the nearest stop sign warms up the engine more than 5 minutes of idling.
I'd be happy to hear contrary opinions.
easypar
I am not an advocate of "warming up" a car. I get in, start it, and go. My wife, on the other hand, loves pre-heating. With our young children in carseats, that method is useful due to them otherwise needing to be heavily bundled when they get in the car, which makes effective buckling difficult, plus they overheat once the interior does warm up. Given how fast the PZEV warms up, I ask my wife not to let it run more than 2-3 minutes before she is moving, but she (of course) ignores me. I'd say it more likely runs for up to ten minutes (or more). We pay for that, though. With the short trips she is taking right now (about ten miles round-trip), we are getting 19-20 mpg. *sigh*
I did think that the bass was too heavy with the default tone settings. I've got mine set to +2 for the treble, +1 for the midrange, and -2 for the bass, which sounds about right (to me, anyway) for CDs and AUX input. These settings also help the AM sound somewhat. But my feeling is that the AM tuner section is pretty poor.
I wish that the tone settings could be set separately for the different sources/inputs, but I think that the settings apply identically to all inputs.
That's because you and most everyone else have been successfully brainwashed by the oil companies and quick lubes to believe that you must change your oil every 3,000 miles. Most manufacturers have been recommending 7500 mile intervals under "normal" use for years and years, with regular dino oil.
The Outback CVT does not require any maintenance for the life of the car, under "normal" use. It's in the manual. Not bad, eh?
went to best buy bought the sirius starmate 6 i think it was sale for 49 bucks
into car put the radsio where you want i hooked up atena to sit on dash near drivers passenger side inside rin the wire easily under dash up side of dah under rubber and it sits without moving right up against window
the other wires went right into thte console where there is the jack you ;ug the one end of cable into the radio the other into the jack in storage console and also the outlet for power is right in the console too
perfect crystal clear reception not aalot of wires (i put my radio colse the cup holders)
and its a fine and perect just swwitch radio to aux and the sirius is playing you can adust volume from steering wheel too just not change the sirius channels but no biggie for me since i usually listen to the same channels
total cost 49.99 plus tax sure beats 475 plus tax
hope this helps
really really easy to do
Thanks for any info.
cdndriver.
From the manual of my 07 Outback ...
New vehicle break-in driving
– the first 1,000 miles (1,600
km)
The performance and long life of your
vehicle are dependent on how you handle
and care for your vehicle while it is new.
Follow these instructions during the first
1,000 miles (1,600 km):
. Do not race the engine. And do not
allow engine speed to exceed 4,000 rpm
except in an emergency.
. Do not drive at one constant engine or
vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or
slow.
. Avoid starting suddenly and rapid
acceleration, except in an emergency.
. Avoid hard braking, except in an
emergency.
The same break-in procedures should be
applied to a newly installed or overhauled
engine or when brake pads or brake
linings are replaced with new ones.
I'm trying to decide between a 2.5 CVT Premium or Limited. Two questions if I may.
1- Does the cruise control on the 2.5 CVT do OK up and down rolling hills? The CVT in my current Prius is all over the place and can't hold
a steady speed.
2- What do you think about the Limited climate control? Consumer Reports was very critical about prior Subaru model's automatic climate control reporting that the temperatures varied dramatically. Is the temperature well regulated or do you experience hot air for awhile then cold air to compensate?
Any comments from your experiences on Limited vs Premium will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Mike
I can't say that I really noticed anything on the climate control, so it was either doing really well or whatever wasn't working right wasn't noticeable. I'll pay more attention this week. I do know that it didn't blow hot then cold, I'd have noticed that as it was between 0 and -15 (F) for the entire 2 1/2 hour drive.
easypar
In my opinion, it sucked on both cars. In both cases, it seems that either climate control blows either hot or cold with no such thing as "a bit warmer or a touch cooler". After 30 minutes the auto climate control usually settles in OK, but it is still a challenge to make subtle changes. I much perfer the simple lever that can be slid over to warmer or cooler as found in most cars from my 1963 Ford Galaxie to my Honda del Sol. But, the auto climate control has somehow gotten a "deluxe" cache & more & more manufacturers are using in. The 2010 OB we have on order will come with auto climate control & I hope that it works better than my previous ones.!