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Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

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Comments

  • phillymomphillymom Posts: 30
    Ok I am sold. Not do you think their is anywhere I can get one for under $250 :confuse:
  • My niece just bought a 2002 Town & Country with 48k miles. I thought that the powertrain warranty would still be good up to 7 years or 70k miles, however she was informed by Carmax (the dealer) that the original owner did not purchase the powertrain warranty. I thought that was standard on all Chryslers?
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    Do a search on ebay.
  • phillymomphillymom Posts: 30
    Thanks, I did..no luck
  • mikeh6mikeh6 Posts: 2
    When we bought our 2002 T&C, we got a 7year/70k powertrain warranty, however we were informed by the dealer that it was only good for the original owner and got a certificate of some kind from them. I'll look for it and see what it specifically says.
  • Thanks Mike
  • phillymomphillymom Posts: 30
    I am looking to buy replacement mats for my 2003 T&C EX, also it did not come with 3rd row mats, anyone know where I could buy them all at a decent price?

    TIA
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    The 7 year/70k powertrain warranty was good for ONLY the original owner UNLESS the original owner purchased a DaimlerChrysler extended warranty for other components. The purchase of the extended warranty enables the next owner to transfer the extended warranty for a $ 150 transfer fee. It also transfers the 7 year/70K mile powertrain warranty to the 2nd owner.
    My 2002 T&C LX had a 7 year/100k mile powertrain warranty which was transferrable to the 2nd owner because the original owner purchased the DaimlerChrysler "Added Care" 7 year/75k mile extended warranty.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    We are going to buy the second and third row mats from a Daimlerchrysler dealer were we purchased our 01 DGC EX. (The mats were missing when we purchased it.) Each cost about $20.00. I can't find any other place that sales them and the price isn't bad either. ;)
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    On our 1996 Caravan I used black 36" wide vinyl carpet runner to make custom fit mats for the second and third rows. This approach has the advantage that this carpet runner material can easily be cut with a scissors to fit around the seat supports which holds the mat in place nicely and also provides a "wall to wall" mat that protects the carpet completely, unlike aftermarket and OEM mats which are always skimpy and ill fitting. This vinyl matting material is quite inexpensive as well. Can usually be purchased at most big box hardware/lumberyards like Home Depot, Lowes and Menards.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    Thanks for the info.
  • chrisk3chrisk3 Posts: 1
    Awesome. My 2002 Town and Country Ltd speedometer went all the way round and back up against the peg, for no apparent reason. Was on the verge of taking it into Chrysler and kissing goodbye to the kids' inheritance. Instead, pressed the trip button, with the engine off, and lots of lights and dancing gauges later, all back to normal. Brilliant tip. Thanks
  • ljoyeljoye Posts: 2
    Having problem with 2001 T&C driver's side power window. Goes down fine but going up is a problem. It goes up 3 or 4 inches at times. Takes about 2 minutes to finally get up. It is an intermittent problem. Any suggestions?
  • drw170drw170 Posts: 2
    I am buying 2001 EX with the ealer installed Mopar Rear Seat Video system, VCR only. I would like to get ride of the VCR and install a DVD but use the exisiting display.

    Does anyone make a kit for this? If not, what type of connections does the VCR use to connect to the rest of the system?

    Any info on making the switch would be appeciated.

    DRW170
  • drw170drw170 Posts: 2
    I am buying 2001 EX with the dealer installed Mopar Rear Seat Video system, VCR only. I would like to get ride of the VCR and install a DVD but use the exisiting display.

    Does anyone make a kit for this? If not, what type of connections does the VCR use to connect to the rest of the system?

    Any info on making the switch would be appeciated.

    DRW170
  • jim001jim001 Posts: 1
    Thank you 97xpresso for this solution!

    I had similar problems with my 2003 Limited after I jumped a low battery, even though I had run it down and jumped it many time before. My twist is that before I found this solution I pulled the battery cable for a couple of minutes. When I hooked it back up, the entire gauge cluster was dead as well as pretty much everything else except the radio! Additionally, the gauge cluster was emitting a continuous beep. I unhooked the battery again and this time everything came back except the alarm system and the beep was still there. I did the trip odometer reset (have to hold it in for about 10 seconds) and the speedo and tach reset to normal. But after a couple of minutes everything went dead again, still with the beeping. I pulled the battery cable for about 10 minutes this time and everything came back working. Thanks again for the fix.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    No problem, I don't have an original thought in my head, I just repeat what I've read or heard someplace else.
  • 97 T&C purchased last year with approx. 70K. Noticed slight vibration--dealer "fixed." One month and more miles later it got worse--entire wheel fell off--even rotors ruined. Several felt it was either lugnuts torqued incorrectly or bushing problem. Now I have clunking noise been reading about in forum. Mechanic says it is bushing--showed me how different it looked from other one, but says it's not dangerous. Naturally, I don't want wheel to fall off. Question is.....is this inherent in the vehicle, did I get a lemon, is it dangerous, should I worry about the wheel falling off????
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    I have read many posts here on Edmunds and on other sites, and I do not recall hearing a problem as you describe. (wheel falling off) Your van is almost 10 years old and parts do wear out, you should try to find an quality independant shop to check out your front end suspension, the dealer prices will drain you. Sway bar bushings are very inexpensive and easy to install. Worn ones will make a clunking sound, and yes it is not dangerous, if in fact, it is worn sway bar bushings.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    "...did I get a lemon..."

    Can't say that I've ever heard anybody refer to a nine year old car as a "lemon". That having been said, a car of that age with "only" 70K miles on it should have lots of life left in IF it has been properly maintained. When I say "lots of life" I mean it. I'm in contact with a number of owners of these vans and several have north of 200,000 miles, one has 370,000 (although he did replace his engine at 360,000). Looked at it that way, my 1998 with "only" 114,000 is a relative baby, and yours is even younger (at least from a mileage perspective).

    So, my advice is to find a good conscientious mechanic, have it gone through and drive it for as long as you can. FWIW, bushings aren't the greatest in these vans, however, they are fairly inexpensive to replace.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • racerx5racerx5 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Town & Country 130,000 miles V6 That has giving me nothing but trouble sence i've had it. When i first got it it had 90,000 on it and a week later it started messing up i had to take it to the dodge dealership to have some co2 sensors replaced and a relay switch and it cost me 727.00 to replace all of that then a computer chip went out another 270.00. And it ran fine after that,now the darn thing is acting up again after me,my wife & kids whent to Ohio we started back to TN and right on the border of Ky & Tn it just stoped running on the interstate.We had to call a wrecker to pick it up and take it to our house another 300.00 .My brother is a Mech. and put it on a Diagnostic tester and 6 things are wrong.Sould i just go back to the car lot i got it from or and ask for a better car or go back to the dealership that fixed it and tell them they need to fix it again after they told me nothing else was wrong.
  • rod9rod9 Posts: 3
    I am getting water on the floor of my 2001 Town & Country.
    It is coming from the air conditioner. Also need advice on how to change air conditioner filter. Have tried what it says in manuel but cannot find lock or switch under dash. Thanks for any help.
  • rod9rod9 Posts: 3
    After 40000 miles you want to take it back to the car lot. You must be joking.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    AC water leaks almost always occur on the passenger side. Certain 2001's do not have a downward curved hose on the evaporator drain tube, causing water to back up and leak onto the passenger side carpet. Driver's side leaks are usually caused by blocked plenum drains inside the wiper cowl area. To access the filter you almost have to lay on the passenger side and look straight up under the dash to see the cabin filter box with the slide fitting.
  • rod9rod9 Posts: 3
    Thanks,
    Rod9
  • mrgtomrgto Posts: 5
    I have the same problems. The gauges don't register and the ABS light is on. Van will start and die three times. If you let it sit, it will start after a while. I believe it is the security system. I have discovered if I don't lock the doors with the remote it will not act like this. I have to lock the doors with the switch on the door but I can unlock it with the remote and have no problem.
  • mrgtomrgto Posts: 5
    I have the same problem. My van will start and die three times and then if I let it sit will start later. My van will do this if I lock the van with the remote. I can unlock it with the remote, but not lock it with the remote. I lock the doors with the switch on the door. Do your gauges go all funny and not register? Is the ABS light on? I have narrowed down to my car remote but I don't know how to fix it.
  • meganomegano Posts: 1
    Hi, I recently brought my 05 (10 mos old, first owner, 19,000 miles) to a local dealership for the recall and was told the AC didn't work because it was hit by "street damage" and had a hole in it, not covered by warranty. The AC unit in this vehicle is low in under the hood(seen from the ground up, not the top of the vehicle down)- seems to me I should be able to drive my vehicle without worrying about stones, etc kicking up and damaging parts of my car...the dealers says it is not a warranty item and they want $759 to fix it - anyone have any experience with this issue????? :mad:
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I've yet to hear of a make/model of vehicle where someone hasn't complained of this very thing. The fact is that regardless of whether the A/C condenser is mounted high or low in any given vehicle, some occasionally get nailed by a rock or other debris.

    Let me ask you this, if you pick up a crack in your windshield from a rock that has been kicked up, do you blame the manufacturer of the vehicle? No, you submit this to your insurance company under your comprehensive insurance policy, and the same should apply to your condenser. Call your insurance company and ask.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I have also heard of new Odyssey owners experiencing the same debris issue with their van. It is a commen occurance with ALL makes and models.
  • jootenjooten Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 EX that has 81,000 miles on it. My front a/c has been having problems for about a year. It started leaking on the passenger floor and blowing vapor out of the front vents. I took it to a dealer in SC on a trip and they could find no leak. I took it to my dealer in Virginia and they could find no leak but did say the Freon was low. I had them fill it and put dye in the system.

    Two days later it stopped blowing cold air again. The dealer again could find no problem. I took it to my independent dealer and they found a leak and repaired it. A month later it is now intermittent in cooling. I have noticed no water leaking into the floor board on on the ground and no vapor out of the vents. The dealer and independent shop say they can find no problem. However, it cools only about 40% of the time the front a/c is on. The rear a/c works fine and drains fine out of the drain in the right rear.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
  • amf2amf2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 T&C EX. 62,00 miles. Recently have been experiencing sluggish idle (when car is stopped), ocasionally feels like it is shifting gears on it's own when stopped as well. A few days ago at a drive thru, felt as if someone had bumped us from behind (no one there) and then the van just stopped running. Put it in park and started up no problem. Haven't had it die out since then but still sluggish idle. Have regular oil changes and maintenance on it. Have had other problems in the past but this one is a mystery to me.
  • becki1becki1 Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 2001 T&C. It was a regulator & switch. Ended up costing me a $336.48. Only had 59,906 miles on it.
  • mbmordmbmord Posts: 1
    I have had this same exact problem with my '03 T&C LMT, could you tell me how you fixed your problem?
    Thanks
  • cmoracmora Posts: 1
    I've got a quote from a dealer for a Chrysler T&C 2002 van with 48,000 miles for $10,500. I'm not from this country and I would like to have an opinion from this type of car (known problems, safety, etc) before buying it. I've checked in carfax and seems to have no problems. I'd appreciate any comment.
  • rex4rex4 Posts: 3
    I have a 02 T&C, 55k miles, transmission intermittently does hard down shift in heavy traffic (daily), it also stuck in 2nd gear the other day, had to stop vehicle to get it to shift normally again. transmission fluid & filter were changed 15k miles go. Anyone ideas. Thanks!
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    Was fluid changed with ATF+4? When I'm in heavy traffic, or know I'm not going to exceed 45 MPH, I keep it in 3rd instead of Drive, which prevents some shifts and the constant locking-unlocking of the torque converter.
  • iwonder2iwonder2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003LXI The van will start fine one time then the next time I turn the key the dash lights up but the starter does not turn? wait and try it later and it will start. It does not faill all the time about six times in the last week, any idea's
  • rex4rex4 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the tip. Took it to the dealership, they replaced the shift module (I think that's what they called it).
  • 98tclxi98tclxi Posts: 5
    I have a 98 LXI and it is doing the same thing. It use to reset after an hour or so. (Security) But lately, it is 12 or 14 hours before the car seems to "recognize the key" and countless attempts,before it miraculously restarts.
    I went to the dealer, who first suspected a faulty KAM or CAM sensor. I didn't get a quick fix, in fact I missed my car appointment because it wouldn't start. It is linked to locking, I suspect, esp. if my 5 year old is playing with buttons beforehand. But, what a pain, to attempt to start and it shuts itself off...knowing that after three attempts, I am stuck...I wonder if after the first failing, if I reinsert my key in the door lock (manually) from the outside, it will correct itself. The dealer seemed stumpted...but didn't fail to charge me $88.00 to look at it and test sensors, I suspect. I,too, want answers.
  • 98tclxi98tclxi Posts: 5
    Me, too. 98 TCLXI...I don't have the remote. But if I lock it from the switch, inside, I tend to have the problem more often. It use to start after an inconvenient hour or so. My last two experiences with this, it was 14 hours before starts ( a week more or less apart )and countless attempts. I would like an answer...I replaced the starter (no help) and do not want to be stranded with kids in the car -- from a trip to the mall or something.
  • I posted this in a different thread but looks like it does not get enough exposure... so trying here :)

    Hi,

    Maybe somebody can help me here

    1998 T&C LX AWD

    AC does not work when push AC button (button lights up but air temp same as outside air)

    AC works when turn the knob to windshield defrost (but of course air is blowing onto windshield).

    Any ideas?

    Thank you kindly~~~
  • dandyddandyd Posts: 1
    We purchased a beautiful '05 T&C this week. First time I've ever had a vehicle not a GM...couldn't argue the ride and room and stow n go seats. Anyway, the first night on the road I noticed that the headlight switch was not backlit and very hard to find in the dark. Being a year old w/ 21k miles I wondered if it was supposed to be lit and had a burnt bulb or are they not to be lit? As I said I've never owned a Chrysler before and am not sure how they stucture things.....Thanks
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I noticed the same thing on our '05. I realized the headlight switch AND all the window switches don't light up. Only the drivers switch has a backlight. I guess its chryslerrs way of cost cutting.
  • tommy20tommy20 Posts: 1
    :( Did any one find a solution that works, to correct the problem.
    My last two experiences with this, it was 14 hours before starts. Its happen now about twice a week, I don't have a remote. All fuses good and starter.
    I checked on the idea about the sentry key imm-system, its only for 2001 and up.

    Help?
  • sparxussparxus Posts: 3
    I would like to start using E85 in my '01 T&C. The manual says to use only Mopar Flexible Fuel 5W-30 engine oil. I have 2 questions:
    [1] Is it the same as any 5W-30 grade oil?
    [2] Where is the best place to get it?

    Thanks in advance.
  • nmarecknmareck Posts: 1
    We have a 2001 Town and Country and we keep having the check engine light reset and it keeps coming back on - even though we have been told there is nothing wrong with the car and no codes are coming up? does anyone else have this problem - if so what have you done long term about it. The car has 72,000 miles on it. We are also having a problem with the driver side power window - it will not go up all the way from time to time.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Chrysler has since retroactively removed the "Mopar Flex Fuel" requirement for E-85, now all you need to use is a standard API approved oil.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    Quotes I've read about E-85

    "Expect to see 25-30% drop in fuel mileage when using E85, that is, if you are getting 21 mpg, expect 15 mpg.
    Go to www.fueleconomy.gov and then click on the side-by-side for a camparison of gas and E85 mileage."


    "Be careful when changing to E-85 flex fuel. On page 274 of the 2002 grand caravan owners manual with the 3.3 engine it say's."if you operate the vehicle on E-85 either full or part time use onlyMopar Flexible Fule 5W-30 engine oil or its equivalent. This is in a highlighted box on page 275 of the owners manual."if flexible fuel engine oil is not used when using e-85,engine wear may be increased significanty. This may void your warranty". Allso it says with e-85 in real cold weather it will be harder starting. I have a 3.3 2002 caravan but I'm not going to use it"

    Although the part about having to use Mopar oil is no longer true, the potential for more engine wear and maintenance is real. With the drastically decreased MPG, E85 would have to sell at least $1.00 per gallon cheaper before I would consider it.
  • mrgtomrgto Posts: 5
    Hi. We have a 1998 T&C LXI. We have exactly the same problems with our van. It starts and stalls and then if you let it sit for a length of time it will start. Our gauges also go all haywire and don't work. We were on the forum looking for a resolution and we came across your post. We were wondering how the lawsuit went and also if the problems with your van were ever resolved. Thank you.
This discussion has been closed.