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2013 and Earlier - Toyota Prius Prices Paid and Buying Experiences



  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Same price I got. VERY happy with the car. Seats are great and drivetrain/comfort way beyond what I expected. I bought the platinum toyota warranty for 7 year/75k miles for $654. Will keep it that long for sure. I'd buy now because gas is low and supply is high. Perfect storm. Don't think gas will get any cheaper in the short term but in 7 years could be way higher. Besides, can you imagine the choices available in 2017. Have 2700 miles on the odo --- roomy and enjoyable to drive and about 50-54 mpg. :shades:
  • tn072tn072 Posts: 4
    Which State it is?. I am looking for 2010 Prius II in Charlotte NC. Ready to buy if I get a suitable price.
  • Me too... looking for a 2010 II. Best prices seem to be around D.C. Look on, sort by price
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    edited October 2010
    I am very happy with the deal that I got and so far with the car. I just put gas into the car with 692 miles on it (I had put gas in once previously but did not start the trip odometer over again and this is therefore a cumulative reading of the gas mileage up to 692 miles). I got 49.6 miles per gallon. The average miles per hour on the car was 44, which in principle should suggest some city driving at 25 - 35 and and some highway driving between 60 and 70, with air conditioning running. Much of that highway driving was interstate. I have now put 117 miles on the new fill up and used the car mostly on highways at 60 miles per hour (though average mph is in the 40s on my read out) and I am getting 50.5 mph. I take it, therefore that the car is performing as it should.

    I am still trying to figure out the different driving modes. I use EV in parking lots or short trips in the streets of subdivisions, in which I drive very slowly. Mostly I drive in ECO mode, but I am not sure if initially it is better to start off in regular mode to get the car up to initial driving speed quickly and then switch to ECO mode or to use ECO mode and slowly get the car up to speed and then remain in ECO mode. The EV mode is a little erratic until you get the car heated up and even afterward it sometime says I am going at too high a speed when I am actually going about 15 mph. I try to slow down when coming to a light in B mode and sit at stop signs and at lights in B mode; I heard that this helps fuel economy. since I previously had a standard transmission shifting modes is pretty automatic for me; like shifting gears. Does anyone know if this does save fuel? I have never seen my battery indicator at full charge; the most I have seen it is at around 3/4 (maybe a little higher) and once very briefly it went down to around 1/3. Is this normal?

    One minor concern is a sensor noise I hear when i step on the brake to start the car up and when coming to a full stop; it is the same noise you hear when opening the door I believe, or very similar. I don't think I always hear it; you cannot perceive it when you step on the brake to slow the car while driving. I will take it in to the dealer to check but the car works fine and I am not too worried about it.

    Performance: very normal; power in regular mode is probably better than I expected. Sometimes when i listen for it I think the ride is kind of noisy; but then I listen again and I say it is actually pretty quiet! Starting and stopping is so quiet i have to remember that the car is on and not to leave the car before turning it off. I think they should make the "P" button also a turn off button. i find myself pretty engrossed in the readouts and wonder if i will have an accident one day because I am paying more attention to them than the road. I sometimes think I should have had lumbar support in the seat; but i felt that way about my previous car, a Sonata, and then quickly adjusted and like the car very much. I am accustomed to pretty big cars and I think the steering on this one, probably because it is lighter, is a little more active. Back seats are roomier than most people give credit for (but my family is short). The radio might be a littel weaker than in my other cars, but the sound is very good. I might get satellite radio in any case. Someone pointed out to me that there is quite a large blind area out the rear window, and now that they have mentioned it I do see what they mean. But I really did not notice prior to that.

    Would any of the "negatives' that i mentioned cause me from buying the car if i had it to do over again? Probably not. They are mostly the kind of thing I can easily live with and the positive factors probably would have outweighed the negatives. This is just a solid riding, normal driving car which I expect to give me excellent service at a very moderate cost. The most important things to me are safety, trouble free service, and value. I might add that there is something exhilariating about driving in to the gas station at the point I usually do for a fill up and then putting in only 9 gallons of gas! I also like the environmental impact of the car as well as the economy. I also still think i got an outstanding deal at 20792 (out the door but without tax). I purchased from Sandy Springs Toyota in Atlanta and my sales person was Ivars Kikulis; I woudl buy there again. I had also dealt a little with Piority Toyota in Richmond, VA, and I would stay away from that one.

    If you have any suggestions on driving mode, the sensor noise I hear when braking or anything else let me know!
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    edited October 2010
    in response to the person who asked in which state i purchased my Prius: I bought at Sandy Springs Toyota in Atlanta; salesperson was Ivars Kikulis. I used either USAA or Ebay buying service (can't remember which one). It was a good, honest deal. the cost out the door with mats after paying dealer fee, but without tax --I am in NC also-- was 20792. It might be a little cheaper now, but I doubt if it is very much. When I went to the dealership to purchase my car there was a couple from Charlotte who also had bought a Prius with the same sales rep. Good luck.
  • You are using B mode wrong. The only time B mode is used is if you are going down very a large hill for an extended period of time and your battery is at a full state of charge. At that point, your battery can not receive any more charge from the regenerative brakes and the result on that large hill is that you will be using your friction brakes. This can heat up your brakes and warp your rotors/disks just like in any car. The way you are using B mode explains why you battery is not charging more than 3/4 - you are using engine breaking to slow your car, not the regen brakes. For best mileage, keep it in eco mode. EV is useful to move the car in a parking garage without starting the warm up cycle.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    Thanks very much. I will use the B mode as you say. But I have not always used B mode the way I explained and prior to doing that still never had a full charge on the battery; not that I can recall. Of course I still have under 700 miles on the car so maybe I just have not noticed. Most of my initial driving was on the interstate for 500 miles and I do not recall a full charge. What should I do to create one; what kind of driving just to be sure that everything is OK?.

    I thought the car had to be warmed up to use EV mode. How about my use; the parking lot in the supermarket or the 1 mile or so from my driveway out of the subdivision in which I live?

    One last thing; I did not get how to change the setting on th door lock so that when I open the driver's side door all of the other doors open. I did read the book about this but was a bit rushed (and i still must watch the DVD) Or must you use either the key or the unlock button inside the car for that? Obviously to open the hatch without opening the driver's side you must us the key, right? If it is clear in the book no need to write.

    Very much appreciate you taking the time to correct me.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    By the way, for the person in Charlotte, Atlanta is probably only about 4 hours away from you. My flight from RDU only cost a total of $60; is should be the same fro you (or cheaper). The dealers in NC were not dealing ; I saved at least $3000. Perhaps you could find one for around 21700 in NC though that might not include Dealer Fee. If you do go outside of Charlotte, ask to be picked up at the airport (though in Atlanta there is an easy trin ride apparently to the dealership. Good luck.
  • The only way to get a full battery is to find a big hill and go down it while on the brakes. You probably need about 1000 foot in elevation change. Of course if you are on the interstate, you might not even be on the brakes down a large hill so you would probably need an even greater elevation change to get all bars of the battery. If you live in a flat state like Florida, you will never see a full battery.

    You can get ev to work in your driveway if you keep it under a few mph, even if cold. It is good for shuffling cars around like to wash a car in your driveway. That is pretty much the only time ev should be used. I wouldn’t use it the way you are unless a large downhill is in your future like out of your subdivision and you can use ev to drain the battery in advance of the large hill. Otherwise, it’s a gimmick and you should let the car figure out what is best.

    The manual tells you how to reset the key. I did it but can’t remember how. You can open the hatch even if all doors are locked, if you have a key in your pocket.

    Check out
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    You can only open the hatch that way on a Prius IV or V. Every other Prius requires you to unlock the doors first because it only works that way for the driver's door.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    Thanks very much. I am in eastern NC, which is pretty flat, so I guess that is why I have never seen a full battery.

    Sounds like the EV mode doesn't have much use. will the car automatically enter into it at any point as i think the Insight does?
  • boniamboniam Posts: 5
    I purchased a Prius II in MA for $20K + $295 doc fees + tax + title with msrp of $23760 in Oct 1. I think i got good price though the cash-back here has increased from 750 to 1000 here. I at least saw one more dealer advertising at $19995 here. I also got a good price on trade so I am happy. So far i am happy with my purchase and car.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    Best price i have seen yet. Did it come with mats or are those extra?
  • pgo1pgo1 Posts: 9
    Congratulations on your purchase! I am looking for Prius in MA as well. Which dealer did you purchase from?
  • boniamboniam Posts: 5
    It was Bernardi Toyota in Framingham. Their internet quote is pretty good. If anybody wants i can give the name of sales rep. Now that cashback is 1000 i would expect them to do it for 250 less. I was given 20k for a black but i later asked for winter grey which had around 210 more MSRP. However we also have a discount program through my work for them so they basically said because of that program they would eat 210.
  • Me too... looking for a $20K, late build, Blizzard Pearl... coming down from the State O' Maine.
  • boniamboniam Posts: 5
    It came with mats.
  • Make sure you get them to give you an update for the Nav system. My 2008 Nav unit is terrible and has incorrect information or doesn't have addresses at all for many places. In addition, there is a great deal of wrong information. They will come back and offer you an upgrade for $200. The Nav system isn't worth that to begin with. You are better off saving your money and getting a Garmin or Nuvi which will have much better features like traffic info. I have to use MapQuest and print out directions since I cannot depend on my Nav unit having the address or correct information. The only thing it really does ok is the 'Go Home' feature. If I were to buy it again, I wouldn't waste my money on the Nav unit.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    You are replying to a message from 1 1/2 years ago :D .

    In any case, you are correct, nothing is a bigger ripoff than a factory NAV unit. You can get a Garmin with lifetime free traffic for $100 or less ($120-140 for a wide-screen model). Every factory system I have tried is out of date - way more than Garmin or TomTom (and those are out of date too). The biggest problem is that the factory NAV units lack the ability to navigate on back roads in out of the way places. Once you get off the main drag anywhere in small town America you are out of luck. They have the images of the streets, but can't route you on them.
  • Is this a Prius III with nav or not? Thanks!
  • winginskywinginsky Posts: 5
    edited October 2010
    Leased a Prius III without NAV recently, bay area,

    $1000 drive OTD and $208/mo (after tax) for 35 month, 12K mi/yr

    is that good deal? I don't like to pay for the NAV since it's just too fancy for regular use :) However, I do like the bluetooth & CD changer, mp3 player all the time
  • Which dealer in the bay area? I am in the market as well.
    What was the negotiated selling price on the car?
  • fremont.

    Maybe because all toyota dealers have $1000 matching for down payment until Nov. 1, we can have a better price than last month? The cap before adjusted is about 232xx and money factor is 0.00009, if my memory serves ...
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,104
    A reporter is interested in talking with owners of the Toyota Prius who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to [email protected] no later than Saturday, November 20, 2010 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.

    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds Inc.


    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • surysury Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    Bought a Prius IV Metallic Blue (Nav, Carpet Floor Mats & Cargo Mat and Appearance Package). Price is $27,850 before Tax. Took a lease with MF=0.0009, Residual = 57%, with $1000down and Toyota matching $1000, monthly payment is $319 (Bay Area, CA, sales tax os 9.25%). Hope this is a reasonable deal. This is for 15000 miles per year and for 36 months.
  • This is a great deal.
    What dealership did you make it ?
    What would be the price for Prius III without Nav ??

  • amar2amar2 Posts: 2
    Looks good deal.. How is your dealer? Is the $319 inclusive sales tax ?
  • amar2amar2 Posts: 2
    Hello Friends, Can you help me to understand what is a good buying price on the Package 4 without sun roof. I noticed in some posts that dealer matches $1000, what does it mean?

  • orunorun Posts: 4
    Have been offered the following for Prius III *WITH* Nav in SF bay area

    Negotiated price 24884
    residual 15857 (57%)
    Initial down $500 (Toyota matching $500)
    Money Factor .00009
    First payment $689 + $500 = $1189
    Monthly payment incl. tax $270

    Is this good?

  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    You can't assess a lease without the msrp.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    it doesn't even say how many months and how many miles are included either.
    Very vague.
  • orunorun Posts: 4
    Sorry skipped on some info:

    Lease term 36 months/36k miles
    MSRP $27010
    - Special color fee (Blizzard Pearl) $220 - has anyone heard about this?
    - TDA (Advertising fees) $429
    Both above fees included in MSRP/Invoice

    Also, does TFS allow lease transfer in case one has to get out before 36 months?
  • Sounds pretty good deal, you get $2000 down from MSRP before $500 matching?
  • orunorun Posts: 4
    Yes (or so I have been led to believe:))

    MSRP $27010
    Invoice $25384
    (Lease) Price $24884

    (Lease) Price is $500 below invoice and then a $500 match.
  • orunorun Posts: 4
    Howdy folks!

    Has anyone transferred a lease for Prius or another Toyota vehicle, when the vehicle was leased through Toyota Financial.

  • cp101cp101 Posts: 6
    To anyone who can offer an opinion -

    2010 Prius II w/ cloth
    36 Mo / 45,000 Mile Lease (15K / Yr)
    $1500 total at closing (includes payment #1)
    Total monthly payment: $242
    Location: SW Florida

    Please let me know if this is a good deal in comparison to what others are paying out there. Thank you very much.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Roll everything into the lease except the 1st payment if possible. Question --Why would you lease a car beyond the warranty of 3 years/36k miles. Although unlikely, you will be responsible for repairs on a car you don't own. You could also be looking at a set of new tires when you turn it in at 45k miles. The new owner will be very pleased.
  • cp101cp101 Posts: 6
    Interesting advice, but I can't reduce how much I drive per year (I average at least 15K). There's no way I could have afforded a 24 month lease (~30K miles), so this was really my only option as far as I can see.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Maybe you should consider buying -- drive it for a 100k miles -- no major service issues til then. Low financing is available. Just talking here -- do what best meets your needs and good luck.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Can't Toyota also do 30 month terms? It will have a lower payment than 24 months and you won't go much over the warranty coverage.
  • volvooceanvolvoocean Posts: 11
    edited October 2010
    Antwerpen auto in Clarksville, MD. The msrp was $31,909 (it has the solar roof package). I bought it for $29K plus tax, title, and tags. I received the 2 year free maintenance from Toyota plus 0% for 60 months.
  • The dealer was offering Fidelity Warranty Company for extended warranty. They are based in the south and offer extended warranty for Toyota dealers. Anybody with good/bad reviews?
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Don't buy it -- you can get a genuine toyota ext. warranty for 654 -- 7 years 75k miles zero deductible. Just search toyota warranties -- several dealers sell them online. got mine that way.
  • Would a Prius IV with Nav (not the Solar package) be a good deal at this price?

    MSRP: $30,040
    INVOICE: $28,142
    Invoice less incentives= $27,484 PLUS T/L

  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
  • I just bought a white Prius III for a great price with 0 down, 0% interest for 36 months.

    Even though I went in not wanting to be sold on "extras", I was=( There is a 60 day refund policy on everything so I can change my mind...

    1) GAP: $495
    2) Platinum Extra Care (8 years/125k miles) - I won't keep it past 5-6ish years and I dive 10k a year. He told me it's good for the next owner, but I generally don't sell private. This cost me $1675
    3) Premium Auto Care - while new Toyotas come with 2 year free maintenance I was sold on this extra care for $495. I think it's for 1 extra year, I don't even remember what else the guy said.

    Anyhow, would really appreciate some advice. Should I cancel? I do want peace of mind and I know it's a complicated vehicle, I just don't want to be ripped off at point of sale.

    Side note: Any thoughts on window tinting? I'm about to do 30 on all windows. Too dark? It's illegal where I live to do the front ones, so I'm considering just doing rear windows.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited November 2010
    Yes cancel all of it ASAP.
    GAP is not worth much on a car that is being paid off in 36 months.
    The maintenance package is a complete waste of money for 1 year extra coverage.
    The extended warranty is way overpriced and way too high mileage for you if you only drive 10K miles per year and normally trade in.

    Just cancel all of it. You have 3 years to think about and shop for an extended warranty for a better price if you are scared of repairs after 36K miles.
    The hybrid system including the battery is already factory covered by the free included warranty for at least 8 years. An extended warranty adds no extra coverage for the battery or hybrid system parts.
    When the car is about 2 1/2 years old, you can reevaluate how much longer and how many more miles you will keep the car and decide which extended warranty term you want to get, if any.

    Since they were able to pressure you into buying these things even though you didn't intend to buy any of it, they will probably also try to talk you into keeping it or maybe giving you a "discount" to keep it, but don't let them scam you a second time.

    Obviously, do not buy tint from these people either. Check with locals where the best place to get tint is.
  • Sigh. Thanks for the quick reply. I got the IV, not the III but that won't impact the question or answer;-)

    The extra maintenance will cover 2 extra years (so 4 total) and 45k, which will cover the 30k service.
  • How much did you paid for IV ? i am in market for III or IV. not able to decide at this moment.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited November 2010
    It's still not worth that much even for 2 extra years. You can shop multiple dealers when you need the 30K service and look for coupons and specials. The dealer showed me a glossy service brochure that had wildly exaggerated prices for service costs when he was trying to convince me to buy the maintenance package.
    The 30K service isn't that costly if you don't overpay and don't get extra unneeded services done.

    They sold you an overpriced GAP policy on a 36 month loan, so you can bet they didn't sell you a bargain money-saving prepaid maintenance package.
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