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Comments
Again on the tax issue, yes you are a citizen so you're part of the program by default but 'your' taxes are dwarfed by the tax payments of the participants ( buyers, dealers, vehicle makers, truckers, steel/glass/plastic supplier who will benefit from it ).
In fact there is a good chance that the boost in sales across the board may in fact generate more revenue than the program costs.
Then there's the money that the nation as a whole will save as a result of using significantly less fuel over the next 5+ years. That saving alone will be greater than the total cost of the program.
It'll be 250K this quarter, 250K the next, 250K the next and then 250K following that. Hopefully by then the economy will have recovered enough to a level of 11-12 million units.
That's all this is supposed to accomplish. Build a bridge over this economic abyss.
Second, you are incorrect. Does SOME go overseas? Sure. But alot of it stays here to pay the American workers in those plants, the utility bills to keep that plant running, etc. Additionally, I personally prefer that someone buy a "foreign" car built here in the US. It is better than buying a Mexican made car from a company running in the red and hemorrhaging MY tax dollars.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
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1994 Ford LTD Crown Victoria
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Estimated New EPA MPG
MPG ratings for this vehicle have been revised More information.
Regular Gasoline
16
City
18
Combined
23
Hwy
Now, this car is in my Uncle's name who lives out of the country, but I have been paying for the registration/insurance for years. If I can prove the fact that I have been supplying the checks in which the DMV has been receiving for years, will I be able to qualify for the program? How about if I have power of attorney rights for my uncle?
Why wouldn't they? The C4C program only involves maybe 10% of the buying public. The rest of the buying public is still in the market on a daily basis. Nothing has changed for these the great majority of the buyers.
Another negative fear stomped and squashed.
Its like rock em sock em robots Or wack-a-mole.
Do I have to put more quarters in?
Did anyone else have this problem?
You either qualify under the strict rules or you do not.
I sure hope you are being sarcastic.
This is yet another government program that will further put this country in debt. Conrats Obama, you have officially spent more money in your first 7 months then the previous 10 US Presidents COMBINED!!!!
This CARS program is a logistical DISASTER for dealers. The paperwork process is terrible and inefficient. I have a feeling that the government will take much longer then 10 days to reimburse me for my store "floating" the customers $3,500-$4,500.
This program is great for people who can take advantage. But, in reality, we will all pay for it in the end.
This post starts my official policy of ignoring anyone who brings up Obama, ACORN, Socialism or any other of the scare tactic buzzwords
I just don't feel like feeding
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I really want to purchase new car but none of my cars "qualify "
85 cutlass supreme is running maybe 8-10 MPG and my Chrysler Van is about 15MPG
Please make them change this MPG ratings and why not to clunk two cars if you have them???
Truly 85 cutlass is 25 years old and I will be happy if I can make 10MPG
Chrysler - maybe 15MPG
Please keep asking for change of this MPG estimates
Also I want to trade both cars, Why not??? Why just one?
So I am just telling that there should be more flexibility... different situations and different needs
I have emailed fueleconomy@ornl.gov several times asking them to add my vehicle to the database, but have had no success.
This sucks!! The dealer has not been very helpful.
If you have to begin all over again then make sure that you have all the documents ready when you go into negotiate a deal. Choose another dealer, there are thousands of dealers all over the country. If you do not have all the documents that are required on your part then you will run into this again.
Be prepared before you go ... or don't go. It's really that simple.
It's a *BIG* surprise for a lot of people who are working on finding a new car before the final rules are published. People don't wait for the rules to be published and then start working on a car deal.
It is a surprise because no one expects the MPG rantings will be changed at the last minute. There is no hint of this coming. The MPG data is there since 20+ years ago.
Some folks have posted that we should simply let them keep the $250 and that is what the dealers are hoping for. Well, if it comes down to them keeping the $250 or me, especially in light of the fact that it is legally my money and not theirs under the law, then as sure as the sun is going to rise in GA tomorrow I'm going to clean their plow. They would do the same to me if tables were turned.
I have a '99 Merc Grand Marquis (retail value under $3000)) it has been registered and insured in my name for 7 years and has a "new" EPA combined milage of 18 per www.fueleconomy.gov ) - fully eligible for $4500 C4C credit on a new car that gets >28MPG combined.
On 7/25 I made a deal with local Toyota dealer for a new 2009 Toyota Yaris (3 dr. automatic (combined EPA milage = 31MPG). The Dealer included the $4500 credit in the Purchase Agreement but was no yet "certified" for the CARS program. I provided them with photocopies of my Title, Registration, insurance card, and personal ID documenting compliance with all the rules. The vehicle I purchased was a "dealer swap" so it took a few days for them to get it to the Dealership, meanwhile (they tell me) they tried to register with the program through NHTSA website. They claim that the Dealer Registration website "crashed" and there was a delay in getting their initial application in, consequently I am sitting here 6 days after "closing" my deal waiting for them to receive their "Dealer Certification" information from NHTSA.
Of course I am getting suspicious that they gave me a better deal than they should have and are waiting for me to back-out so they can sell to another buyer for a better price. Realistically, though, I know that the "gov't red tape" for the dealers could be really screwed-up and am inclined to believe they are working in good faith to get the assurances they need from NHTSA that they will receive the credit they included in my deal before accepting final payment from me. I have read the Dealer Section of the CARS.gov website and the process the dealer is describing to me is substantially like the scenario provided on the website.
I will call office of my Congressman and Senators this AM to request their assistance with this and urge anyone else with similar problems to do the same. Hope this is straightened-out soon and I get my piece of the money in this program! I do not know if it is good gov't policy or not but I do know it is good for me at this point in time...
I am posting this on Jul 30, 2009.
FYI.
I went to Ford's web page today jul 30, 2009 just for kicks and found that Ford has old data and has not updated there web page with the new EPA MPG data which was modified on Jul 24, 2009 at the last second as the CARS program was implemented.
You must go to http://www.cars.gov/ and click on the fueleconomy.gov tab at the top for the real MPG.
My family's company had a clunker van that we used for c4c to turn in for a new vehicle for me. The company had to purchase the car to qualify, along with my aunt (the president of the co) as a cosigner.
I'm assuming the company cannot gift it to me so if I buy from the company I will have to pay sales tax on the $25k car.
I'm wondering if my aunt (as a cosigner) can buy out the car and then gift it to me. Anyone know if that's possible? Does gifting really only apply to $13k vehicles and below?
I posed this question to my accountant and he wasn't even sure so not really sure where I can get an answer on this....
Ine vehicle gets 16 mph and I was told the same thing.
If it's rated at 19 mpg combined, then I'm guessing you have the 3.8 V-6/3-speed automatic? Just out of curiosity, what's wrong with the car that it's getting that kind of fuel economy? I had a 1982 Cutlass Supreme with the 3.8/3-speed, and I'd usually get around 15-16 in local driving, and could get lower 20's on the highway...and not exactly babying it, either! And while the horsepower didn't change from 1982-85, the engine management systems...carburetor, electronics, emissions crap, etc, was much-improved, so the '85 tended to perform better, and get better fuel economy. Provided everything's functioning properly, that is.
The whole "cash for clunkers" name is a bit of a misnomer, since "clunker" really has nothing to do with it. Economical little subcompacts can be clunkers. And if poorly maintained, can pollute worse than a monstrous V-8 that's in proper tune. They really should have named this program "Green for Guzzlers" or something along those lines.
http://www.cars.gov/index.php/dealer-locator
A quick look at Craigslist in San Diego has 5 F350s and the range in price from $4850 to $11,000. Just sell the truck and buy what you like with the money. You will probably do better than $3500.
http://www.cars.gov/index.php/balance
http://www.cashforclunkersfacts.com/bill/cars-is-a-four-letter-word