Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
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See my post under separate topic (#910) "Questionable Info..." for the answer to this.
(You need to return to the Topic List).
Good luck!
1999 DODGE DURANGO. THIS PRICE INCLUDES ADVERTISING COSTS TOTALING $465, PLUS $400 DOLLARS
ADDED ON FOR DEALER PROFIT OR A TOTAL OF $31,696. I WASN'T AWARE OF THE ADVERTISING COSTS AND SAID I WOULD NOT PAY THE EXTRA $400. THEY FAXED ME THE ACTUAL INVOICE, AND I SEE THE DEALER HOLDBACK AT $1019. I AM SURE I CAN GET THE VEHICLE FOR $31,296 AS IT IS ADVERTISED AT THAT FOR A BIG SALE THIS WEEKEND, I AM WONDERING IF I COULD GO LOWER, OR SHOULD NOT GET GREEDY AND TAKE THIS OFFER? THE DEALER SEEMED A BIT UNCOMFORTABLE WHEN THEY REALIZED I FIGURED OUT THE HOLDBACK OFF OF THE INVOICE, AND MADE IT VERY CLEAR THAT THEY DID NOT WANT ME TO GO TO ANOTHER DEALER WITH MY INVOICE AND HAVE THEM LOSE MY BUSINESS.
My question is, what are the other items I can reasonably knock down? Can I ask for all or a portion of the hold-back? Can I ask for some relief on the destination charges or dealer prep? Can I ask for the dealer to eat the advertising costs? My worry is that the dealer will stonewall me because there are plenty of people in line behind me who also want the car and may be less willing to dicker. What is the best strategy for negotiating the best deal on a high-demand car? I can hear the laughter right now.
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Your readers might care to note that the Chrysler site was updated on the 16th as a RESULT of my complaint! (Take a look at the incentives page of www.jeepunpaved.com and note the update date).
But the worst of it is that you are now saying that the Edmunds Customer Rebate page MAKES NO DISTINCTION between lease offers and sales! What good is this information? I go to a dealer to BUY a car and tell him I know there is $1200 in Customer Rebate and he tells me I am wrong (this is what happened to me thanks to Edmunds) because that is just lease money (cap reduction).
I am very offended by your site's reponse to my criticism (which at least has been politely presented).
Good luck using Edmunds info to increase your bargaining position everybody!
We have thousands of topics oand we do our best to keep things organized, topic lists short, and free of redundant topics.
It seems totally appropriate that our hosts would respond to your question here first. This is where you posted the question initially. It would be labor intensive for us to answer the same questions, by the same user over and over.
I'll double check to see what exactly happened. But, I'll bet it's merely a housekeeping matter and nothing else.
Nancie Meng, Director of Community
FYI, we are not responsible for the Chrysler site.
Incentives and rebates are programs offered by the manufacturers to increase the sales of low-selling models or to reduce excess inventories. Rebates can take the form of either direct cash back or low-rate financing offers. If both financing and cash are offered for the same model, the buyer must choose which he or she would prefer.
While manufacturers' rebates and low financing are passed directly to the buyer, dealer incentives are passed on only to the dealer -- who may or may not elect to pass the savings on to the customer. Frequently, the salesperson will not even be aware of dealer incentive money, so buyers should speak to the sales manager about participating in dealer incentive programs. Deduct the amount of the dealer incentive and customer rebate from the invoice price to determine the true dealer cost.
All programs listed...are national or large regional programs. There may be additional incentives and rebates available in your area sponsored by the manufacturer or regional dealers associations. Likewise, sometimes a "national" program may exclude certain regions. If a particular car is selling extremely well in your region, the rebates may not be available. For example, General Motors programs listed below exclude California, Idaho, Oregon and Washington, though other programs may exist in those states.
Often consumers rush to read the lists of rebates and incentives without understanding how they work. Hope this helps.
Nancie
Respectfully, I ask that you post it here now.
I want to point out that rebates are not discounts. They are actually a form of profit sharing with the manufacturer (originally derived fom the interest from special accounts set up in their respective "captive banks"). Rebates are therefore shown as additional money down on the deal, and the amount is taxable because it is not subtracted from the actual sale price.
This money may also be utilized by the "house bank" to be used on interest buy downs, hence the incentive of super low interests rates in lieu of the rebate. This use of rebate money has overcome an old legal glitch, so that lease incentives can utilize rebates, where they hadn't been able to in the past. Richard 927, I think you'e getting a little confused, or perhaps you're reading too much into what is really a simple concept. Oh, and by the way, what makes you think leasing and buying are so different. As a Auto Sales Manager, I teach my people to view leasing as an alternative method of purchase.
In what way am I confused? or mis-reading this simple concept? If I understand you, you believe there is no difference in $1200 "cap reduction" money versus "no money" on a cash purchase. Because that is what we are talking about.
Dealmaster said: "Oh, and by the way, what makes you think leasing and buying are so different. As a Auto Sales Manager, I teach my people to view leasing as an alternative method of purchase."
Oh there's a big difference, when you lease a car, you have to give it back (or buy it) at the end of the lease period; if you purchase the vehicle, you get to keep it forever (no matter how long it takes you to pay off a note, which is a separate issue, isn't it?). But I am surprised that you didn't know that. But if you are interested, this site explains in great detail all the differences between leases and purchases.
This site specifically says, (1) negotiate the price of the vehicle first (independent of whether you are buying or leasing. (2) deduct any incentive or rebate money. (3) etcetera.
My underlying question was actually pretty simple, if I lease the Cherokee, I get to deduct 1200, if I buy the Cherokee, I have to pay 1200 more. Shouldn't the Rebates and Incentive Page reflect the difference between lease reduction money and checks sent to the buyer's home after the purchase? That's a yes or no kind of question, by the way....
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Is it fair to say that knowing the rebates, incentives, etc. is like having chips....information you can use to negotiate with a dealer...The dealer has a choice whether or not to meet your price. If he/she doesn', you can go to another dealer?
Nancie...I don't know anything about cars...just running discussion areas. :-)
I see that topic 910 has been restored to the Smart Shopper forum, and would encourage anyone interested to take a look there and share your opinion on what I consider a significant issue.
Thanks,
richard927
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Wow! Do you have a lot of learning to do. NO, you do not have to keep a financed car forever, as a matter of fact Banks are currently extremely concerned about the popular 2 to 3 year trade (or Itch) cycle that most buyers are in. Hence the trend to super low interest rates on short term loans. This is to make people keep their cars for the duration of the loan so that the bank doesn't have to forgive all that interest on a "closeout". In a sense, most new car buyers are writing their own lease, and losing out on the "back end".
Why don't you take my advice and try working out your purchase as a lease, but approach it as an "alternative method of buying". It'll work.
Wow, is your dealer a [non-permissible content removed]. I don't even think my former employer would have pulled one like that. I have no doubt that others will correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like your guy is engaging in what we in the biz call 'lying to the customer', which, at my present store (sleazy enough to gag a maggot, I assure you) is cause for dismissal. I suggest that you find yourself another dealer.
That's an amazingly disgusting situation!
Here's my buyer's info (unsuccessful) on Troopers.
A dealer here showed me a $31K MSRP Trooper loaded out with all that stuff. He readily admitted to $2K in dealer incentive. I hemmed and hawed (more vehicle than I was looking for), so he took me out back to show me to base S model 98 Troopers fresh, according to him, from the railyard (not even prepped).
I had him fax me the invoice next day, and it shows MSRP of $28746 (includes destination). His invoice is one of those that adds on the holdback, advertising and floorplan, and so the "invoice" was $25830, he offered that price plus $100, minus $2000 in incentive...in other words, his offer was $23930. Of course, that's not the real invoice according to Edmunds, but hey.
I didn't do the deal, but it sounds very different than the dealer you are talking to.
Just some FYI
Are these rebates dealer or manufacturer generated? Are these in addition to the rebates/incentives listed in Edmund's? It seems to me that these rebates should be negotiable to anyone, after all our our money is green. Your thoughts please.
Thanks for the information!
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Allen
An answer ASAP much appreciated
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Thanks for your help
I must say, that the dealer installed leather which is installed on back seat and doors as well as front) is dramatically nicer than factory which is also only put on the front seats...for about $300 more.
Is there some kind of hidden dealer incentive that is not posted on Edmund's for 1998 4DR Honda Civic LX's that I'm not aware of. Or is there some other incentive, rebate, or discount being kept from the public? She's looking to purchase in the Chicago area or the surrounding suburbs. All the tax rates they've quoted us have been verified so they're not scamming us on that. Are they just willing to make a $400 profit without putting up a fight for more?
I'm looking at the '98 Diamante LS with "the works." After calculating the holdback and dealer incentives, adding about 3% (liberal estimate), I'm looking at paying about $27K before tax & title. Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks!
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Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.
Car_Man has answered your question in your duplicate post. Once is enough at Edmund's, we're paying attention, don't worry!
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i have seen this in incentives and----at edmund site.could you tell me how can i approach mitsubishi for financing for my newcar.
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