Hey Bill I was wondering with use car prices being what they are does it still make since to buy use over new? 2010 loaded Taurus SHO with 15-20 thousand miles is about $31,000 to $33,000 the same car with the A-plan would be around $41,000 minus the $2000 rebate plus the $795 destination charge.
That seems like a pretty easy one in my book...assuming those numbers are correct. Is $7,000-$10,000 a lot to you? That's about 18% depreciation in one or so years. I wouldn't hesitate. Where it gets cloudy to me is when the savings are only a few grand. If you had a high-dollar trade (and your state calcs sales tax on net price after trade...) that could muddy things a bit.
I know you do a lot of work yourself, and know the BMW's a lot better than I ever did and will, but...
All I can think after my experience this year is "NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!"
Don't worry; I've been driving and wrenching on BMWs since 1983, and I haven't been burned yet. Not to say it can't or won't happen, but I know what can go wrong and I know when to walk away.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
The Good: The car has been detailed and the headlamp lenses are now crystal clear(can't understand why they used pictures of the car with frosted lenses) All the electrical gadgets work- windows, sunroof, heated/power seats, OBC The engine had plenty of power(all things considered) and the transmission shifted smoothly Suspension was tight and responsive The complete tool kit is complete.
The Bad: SRS light is on(no idea why) Vibration/surge at speed(my SA and I suspect the inner CV joints) Tires are crappy Dorals Radio display has a few DOA pixels(no biggie) Spare has a bent rim(ditto)
My plan was to let my SA inspect the car on my nickel(his wife also has a 325xi) so I'd know what was causing the SRS and drivetrain issues- and if I bought the car I was going to have it fixed at the dealer AND I anticipated spending another $500-$750 in the Service Department to have all the fluids and filters changed. However, my sales guy wen to the UCM and was told the price($10950) was firm...
Fair enough, the car has only been on the lot a few days- and if the UCM thinks someone will pay almost $11k for a car with those issues, well... more power to him. I told my sales guy no hard feelings- and to give me a call if the price gets dropped. That's what I love about shopping for a car when you don't need to; you just move on. :shades:
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Doral tires? What kind of cheapskate buys those tires for a BMW?
Someone who was tired of dumping money into a car they purchased with no understanding of the maintenance it needs?
I don't care what I'm driving - tires are some of the most important things you can purchase for a car and I cannot imagine skimping on them. All it takes is one emergency maneuver or one slick road for them to earn their keep.
2025 Jetta GLI Autobahn, 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xE
I would like to trade my Corolla. What should I expect to be offered? Thanks. Location: Richmond, VA 2010 Toyota Corolla S 4 door sedan 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual 24,000 miles white with black cloth Keyless entry, cruise, tilt, moonroof, alloys, S sport package Garage kept, dealer maintained (ToyotaCare maintenance), normal (I think) wear on tires, brakes, etc.
2011 Toyota Camry, 2014 Jeep Wrangler, 2017 Honda Civic Coupe, 2019 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid XSE, 2021 Toyota Tundra, 2022 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Tesla Model 3
2008 MB CLK 550 HT Coupe 29,000 miles Silver w/ Black Leather Interior w/ wood V8 w/. 7 sp auto tran Nav Sunroof No vented seats however New tires on 18" AMG wheels (I think) I small dent otherwise pristine In New Jersey
Appreciate dealer trade-in/auction/Manheim/Galves pricing asap. Thanks a lot.
$22,650 is Galves with Nav and 29k, add $1200 if it's actually got sport package.
MMR is kinda unreliable on these, but ONE did about $26k at Manheim with a bit less miles, OTOH, there's not enough of these to in any way set a market value (08 Grand Cherokee? Yes, 08 E320 4matic? Yes.)
One car at Manheim just isn't gonna tell us anything... it could be there on the right sale and could be on Hollenshead's lane..etc.
If it's sport and Nav, clean carfax, no paintwork, good rubber, all there... I could see $23,500-24k. Did actually run this one by a big Mercedes buyer I was speaking to earlier, he did mention that they are kind of stiff at the moment.
Sorry for the delay in replying. Yes, the engine does crank over. I turn the key and hear the buzzing sound...then, dies as if there is no fuel or something (the tank is almost full). It may be worth fixing....but I don't want to call a towing company to take the car to a repair shop or a dealer.
Thanks for responding to my post! I bought this car in 2005, I paid about $7,500. I think I paid about $3,500 for repair or replacement for new parts (timing belt, water pump, new brakes etc.), in addition to the regular oil changes and brand new 4 tires. I just started car shopping. I feel there is shortage/low inventory in used cars and certain new models due to the economy as well as the earthquake/Tsunami back in March in Japan. Some people may enjoy car shopping, but I hate it!
Thanks Bill. I knew the three guides were way off, they always seem to be for my cars. They all say 14-15k! I knew that wasn't correct. Dealers seem to be asking 15-16k so I figured trade would be about 3k back from that.
Tom
2011 Toyota Camry, 2014 Jeep Wrangler, 2017 Honda Civic Coupe, 2019 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid XSE, 2021 Toyota Tundra, 2022 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Tesla Model 3
It's why I have a big beef with a lot of online trade-in valuators... It's like Kelly Blue Book, they spend a ton of money claiming their values are accurate, but the reality is...
Customer comes in, KBB printout on their 2003 Sienna with 160k miles, KBB says $4800, meanwhile...
Galves hits it at, say, $2800, and I look and they're doing maybe mid 3s at the auction. So after I detail it, ship it, pay fees, etc... figure I net $2800-3k out of it.
I see kbb trade good condition as $16,400. Based on my experience kbb, edmunds, etc. are always $1k or more higher than reality. I'm not the guy with access to the auction values, just another car nut. I'm guessing the auction value given is correct.
2011 Toyota Camry, 2014 Jeep Wrangler, 2017 Honda Civic Coupe, 2019 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid XSE, 2021 Toyota Tundra, 2022 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Tesla Model 3
Wow, I didn't really ask for attitude in the reply. The rest of your reply was a little more helpful, but you don't need to start out with an attitude. (Ever wonder why people dislike car salesmen?) I was simply trying to understand why the value was significantly lower than the KBB and NADA value for a 2008 Nissan Maxima that's fully loaded, especially considering I see identically optioned Maximas on dealer lots selling for $22k+.
16-25k miles on a 3+ year old car is ridiculous, especially considering the 08 model year went on sale in 2007 (I bought mine in 2007 - I've had it for 43 months.) 25,000 miles on a three year old car would be 8,333 miles a year, significantly lower than the national average. I have quite a few miles because commuting in Los Angeles will do that to you.
You are reading attitude where there is none. Drives me nuts when people "hear" inflection in the typed word on a message board. Try reading it without a defensive attitude and you'll see it was perfectly innocent. Heck, read your original query as to why it is worth so little with a bad attitude in mind and even it can seem snarky (to be honest, I thought it was at first ... but then thought better of it).
Not to mention, even if there was attitude (which there wasn't), you are here requesting free professional advice. If it isn't up to your standards, you know your way out, and you can leave the freebie at the door on your way.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Just got back from vacation and read over a few pages. I like reading this stuff. Thanks to everyone for their input.
Any thoughts on a 2005 Subura Legacy GT Auto with 62K in Pgh. PA with a bad Car Fax. Insurance adjuster screwed up and the repair came to almost 15K and included a new turbo. Should have been totaled.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
It wasn't an attitude. Whether or not you like car salesmen (Im not a salesman technically) is indifferent. That's what your car is worth as a trade-in. I pay attention to Maximas at auction because we also own a Nissan store. Your car isn't worth $18-19k, IIRC we recently paid about $17k for one with roof, leather, navi, etc. It had about 37k miles AND it was Black with Black interior.
Why does NADA and Kelly say different? Who knows. These guides are famous in the industry for their inaccuracy. If they were accurate it'd be great, I'd save $200 a year on my galves.com subscription.
If it was hit hard enough to need a new turbo (I'm assuming front end?) then it's probably had damage to the unibody structure of the car so in the business that's called frame or unibody damage.
That's kind of a kiss of death I'm afraid
How bad is the carfax? Does it mention that the vehicle was towed? Airbag deployment? That stuff hurts unfortunately.
Galves with the miles is $8,825 but if I saw one with a dirty carfax and unibody damage I would probably be $6,500-7k on it. These aren't really doing out of the book at the auction, so I'd have to be very careful with it.
Hey that is good news. Yeah it did need some frame work. Got T-boned on the driver side. Not sure why the Turbo was replaced. Eventually, the insurance company paid for it. They orginally said it was on me because they said it wasn't working when I ws hit. Air bags did not deploy. The guy told me that it isn't an R Title. He told me that you only get an R title if the car is totaled. Sound right?
Haven't pulled the Car Fax. Maybe I should do I so I know how bad/good it is.
I see ads sometimes where dealers say they will give you kbb value for your trade (with all kinds of exceptions probably). Do you ever see those in your area? Otherwise it's only worth what a dealer or private party is willing to pay. Good luck!
2011 Toyota Camry, 2014 Jeep Wrangler, 2017 Honda Civic Coupe, 2019 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid XSE, 2021 Toyota Tundra, 2022 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Tesla Model 3
KBB is big in St. Louis ads as well. What it means is they will give you that in trade -- not what they will buy it from you for. You have to do the work on the purchase price with all incentives to see if the deal is good. Then you have to fight your way through the pressure in the finance office with all the worthless ad-ons. Enough people fall for the the sales pitches and a close deal becomes a bonanza. None of those scum bags would pay for those high priced packages for themselves. It is truly a fleecing of America and our troops are victimized big time in that regard. Used car auction prices are crazy high now for many models so a decent trade-in price and a good deal is possible. Discounts on new cars aren't great now. No fire sale except on trucks. Lots of new models and some supply problems on many models.
There is a Hyundai dealer around these parts that always advertises "$5k over blue book for your trade." The not-so-fine print, however, is that you have to pay the dealer's posted price on the car (and that posted price is well above even MSRP).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
It's like the darn weight loss schemes - no matter how many fad diet products & programs come out and no matter how ridiculous they are, logically, a bunch of people will fall for them. The only tried & true method is the simplest one - consume fewer calories than you burn.
The best way to get a good deal on a car is to ignore those logically impossible ads and go in prepared to negotiate your best deal on trade-in and purchase. Sure, there may be one particular vehicle that's at a great price, or a dealership/salesperson may need that one more sale for a bonus, but a consumer doesn't necessarily know that. Settle on an acceptable trade-in offer, settle on an acceptable purchase price. It really is just THAT easy.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I want to trade this into a local dealership, what would be a fair trade in price?
Location: Severn, Md. 21144 Year/Make/Model: 2009 Honda Odyssey Touring Body Style: 5dr Minivan Engine: 6 cylinder, automatic Driveline: FWD Mileage:49500 Color: Maroon (Red) exterior, brown leather interior] Major Options: Touring model, alloys wheels, DVD entertainment system, parking sensors, backup camera, navigation, moonroof. Condition: Good Minor scratches touched up with touchup paint. Tires - Maybe 50% worn Brakes - Maybe 50% worn Maintenance - current Other: One accident from rear end strike less that $2000.00 in damage.
Around here there is usually a tiny "up to" in front of the offer in the paper. Also, usually it says fair value (not good or excellent). My point (poorly made, I know) was shop your trade around. Nobody here in the forum is offering money for it, just making educated guesses about what you might be offered.
Let me give my thanks to the insiders that offer answers here.
2011 Toyota Camry, 2014 Jeep Wrangler, 2017 Honda Civic Coupe, 2019 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid XSE, 2021 Toyota Tundra, 2022 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Tesla Model 3
2008 Acura MDX no nav with 32K for 28,000 2008 RX no nav with 37L for 28,500 2008 Highlander Limited no nav with 30k for 28,000
I like the Highlanders but I would much rather have either of the other two. I would have thought that the Highlander was at least 3000 cheaper. Guessing the MDX is the best buy?
And these are selling prices since this is a no haggle dealer.
Comments
All I can think after my experience this year is "NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!"
Don't worry; I've been driving and wrenching on BMWs since 1983, and I haven't been burned yet. Not to say it can't or won't happen, but I know what can go wrong and I know when to walk away.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
The Good:
The car has been detailed and the headlamp lenses are now crystal clear(can't understand why they used pictures of the car with frosted lenses)
All the electrical gadgets work- windows, sunroof, heated/power seats, OBC
The engine had plenty of power(all things considered) and the transmission shifted smoothly
Suspension was tight and responsive
The complete tool kit is complete.
The Bad:
SRS light is on(no idea why)
Vibration/surge at speed(my SA and I suspect the inner CV joints)
Tires are crappy Dorals
Radio display has a few DOA pixels(no biggie)
Spare has a bent rim(ditto)
My plan was to let my SA inspect the car on my nickel(his wife also has a 325xi) so I'd know what was causing the SRS and drivetrain issues- and if I bought the car I was going to have it fixed at the dealer AND I anticipated spending another $500-$750 in the Service Department to have all the fluids and filters changed. However, my sales guy wen to the UCM and was told the price($10950) was firm...
Fair enough, the car has only been on the lot a few days- and if the UCM thinks someone will pay almost $11k for a car with those issues, well... more power to him. I told my sales guy no hard feelings- and to give me a call if the price gets dropped. That's what I love about shopping for a car when you don't need to; you just move on. :shades:
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
That's a lot of money. Put it this way... guy I know just paid $7,500 for a clean driver 62 T-Bird...
Doral tires? What kind of cheapskate buys those tires for a BMW? Remember.. first thing I look at are the tires when I appraise a car.
Someone who was tired of dumping money into a car they purchased with no understanding of the maintenance it needs?
I don't care what I'm driving - tires are some of the most important things you can purchase for a car and I cannot imagine skimping on them. All it takes is one emergency maneuver or one slick road for them to earn their keep.
Location: Richmond, VA
2010 Toyota Corolla S
4 door sedan
4 cylinder, 5 speed manual
24,000 miles
white with black cloth
Keyless entry, cruise, tilt, moonroof, alloys, S sport package
Garage kept, dealer maintained (ToyotaCare maintenance), normal (I think) wear on tires, brakes, etc.
29,000 miles
Silver w/ Black Leather Interior w/ wood
V8 w/. 7 sp auto tran
Nav
Sunroof
No vented seats however
New tires on 18" AMG wheels (I think)
I small dent otherwise pristine
In New Jersey
Appreciate dealer trade-in/auction/Manheim/Galves pricing asap. Thanks a lot.
Figure in and around that $12k mark.. if it's real nice I might go $12,500.. handshakers scare the masses off.
Bill
$22,650 is Galves with Nav and 29k, add $1200 if it's actually got sport package.
MMR is kinda unreliable on these, but ONE did about $26k at Manheim with a bit less miles, OTOH, there's not enough of these to in any way set a market value (08 Grand Cherokee? Yes, 08 E320 4matic? Yes.)
One car at Manheim just isn't gonna tell us anything... it could be there on the right sale and could be on Hollenshead's lane..etc.
If it's sport and Nav, clean carfax, no paintwork, good rubber, all there... I could see $23,500-24k. Did actually run this one by a big Mercedes buyer I was speaking to earlier, he did mention that they are kind of stiff at the moment.
Tom
It's why I have a big beef with a lot of online trade-in valuators... It's like Kelly Blue Book, they spend a ton of money claiming their values are accurate, but the reality is...
Customer comes in, KBB printout on their 2003 Sienna with 160k miles, KBB says $4800, meanwhile...
Galves hits it at, say, $2800, and I look and they're doing maybe mid 3s at the auction. So after I detail it, ship it, pay fees, etc... figure I net $2800-3k out of it.
So I pencil it at $2800 and I'm the crook.
Funny thing is, KBB won't buy your car
If its turning over, then its not catastrophic. I'd get it fixed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks!
Galves pegs the car at $14,525 with 63k and if the car is all there it might break into the mid 15s at auction.
08 Maxima SEs are worth $18-19k wholesale... but not with 63k miles, more like with 16-25k miles.
Wow, I didn't really ask for attitude in the reply. The rest of your reply was a little more helpful, but you don't need to start out with an attitude. (Ever wonder why people dislike car salesmen?) I was simply trying to understand why the value was significantly lower than the KBB and NADA value for a 2008 Nissan Maxima that's fully loaded, especially considering I see identically optioned Maximas on dealer lots selling for $22k+.
16-25k miles on a 3+ year old car is ridiculous, especially considering the 08 model year went on sale in 2007 (I bought mine in 2007 - I've had it for 43 months.) 25,000 miles on a three year old car would be 8,333 miles a year, significantly lower than the national average. I have quite a few miles because commuting in Los Angeles will do that to you.
Not to mention, even if there was attitude (which there wasn't), you are here requesting free professional advice. If it isn't up to your standards, you know your way out, and you can leave the freebie at the door on your way.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any thoughts on a 2005 Subura Legacy GT Auto with 62K in Pgh. PA with a bad Car Fax. Insurance adjuster screwed up and the repair came to almost 15K and included a new turbo. Should have been totaled.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
It wasn't an attitude. Whether or not you like car salesmen (Im not a salesman technically) is indifferent. That's what your car is worth as a trade-in. I pay attention to Maximas at auction because we also own a Nissan store. Your car isn't worth $18-19k, IIRC we recently paid about $17k for one with roof, leather, navi, etc. It had about 37k miles AND it was Black with Black interior.
Why does NADA and Kelly say different? Who knows. These guides are famous in the industry for their inaccuracy. If they were accurate it'd be great, I'd save $200 a year on my galves.com subscription.
Don't shoot the messenger.
If it was hit hard enough to need a new turbo (I'm assuming front end?) then it's probably had damage to the unibody structure of the car so in the business that's called frame or unibody damage.
That's kind of a kiss of death I'm afraid
How bad is the carfax? Does it mention that the vehicle was towed? Airbag deployment? That stuff hurts unfortunately.
Galves with the miles is $8,825 but if I saw one with a dirty carfax and unibody damage I would probably be $6,500-7k on it. These aren't really doing out of the book at the auction, so I'd have to be very careful with it.
Sorry...
Bill
They're not selling for $22k, that's the asking price.
Oh, that would do. You wouldn't let a little thing like profit get in the way would you?
Haven't pulled the Car Fax. Maybe I should do I so I know how bad/good it is.
MOST states do allow a tax credit on a trade-in, but not all do.
Where do ya live?
An R title probably means reconstructed... which means it was totalled and then rebuilt.
R title = SUPER bad. R or Rebuilt/Reconstructed/Previous Salvage/etc means a good 50+% whack to a car's value.
Read the fine print.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The best way to get a good deal on a car is to ignore those logically impossible ads and go in prepared to negotiate your best deal on trade-in and purchase. Sure, there may be one particular vehicle that's at a great price, or a dealership/salesperson may need that one more sale for a bonus, but a consumer doesn't necessarily know that. Settle on an acceptable trade-in offer, settle on an acceptable purchase price. It really is just THAT easy.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Location: Severn, Md. 21144
Year/Make/Model: 2009 Honda Odyssey Touring
Body Style: 5dr Minivan
Engine: 6 cylinder, automatic
Driveline: FWD
Mileage:49500
Color: Maroon (Red) exterior, brown leather interior]
Major Options: Touring model, alloys wheels, DVD entertainment system, parking sensors, backup camera, navigation, moonroof.
Condition: Good
Minor scratches touched up with touchup paint.
Tires - Maybe 50% worn
Brakes - Maybe 50% worn
Maintenance - current
Other: One accident from rear end strike less that $2000.00 in damage.
Let me give my thanks to the insiders that offer answers here.
2008 RX no nav with 37L for 28,500
2008 Highlander Limited no nav with 30k for 28,000
I like the Highlanders but I would much rather have either of the other two. I would have thought that the Highlander was at least 3000 cheaper. Guessing the MDX is the best buy?
And these are selling prices since this is a no haggle dealer.
If the accident shows on Carfax, $20,000-21k tops. If it doesnt... I'd be $21,500-22k.
Kinda fat miles and the color isn't a help. Sorry
Bill