I am driving my wife's 93 6 cyl 4 door Grand Am, 67000 miles, these are the problems we have had: - numerous problems with the cooling system, at least three times to the dealer, but it seems to be OK now. - water leaks into compartment from driver's side rear door under heavy rain - engine stalling/poor performance from bad O2 sensor (repaired with a new sensor) - snapped the end off the stabilizer bar. - speedometer just stops working at random times. (Same problem with previous Pontiac, I think "Sunbird". The odometer would go backwards too!) - the fuel door can get stuck in the winter. I fixed it by liberally spraying the hinge with WD-40 and "adjusting (bending) the bracket so that it just holds the door shut. - minor: the elastic bands around the visors are loose, the lid over the beverage holder is broken, the Grand Am lettering came off the passenger side. - and right now, the engine kills will after driving on the highway for a while, then stopping, and restarting the car.
I dunno, maybe because the car is silver I don't see it, but the 93 does not have a problem with chipping paint.
What do I like about it? Standard fog lights are nice when it snowing (driving slower and I want to see what's right in front of the car). Also V6 has enough power for me, and its not the GT version. Get 23 mpg for mostly highway driving.
OK, now can someone do me a favor? Does anyone know where I can find the hp rating for this car?
I am getting a gasoline smell on my 96 grand am. This happens when the car is first started and comes in the heater vents. You can also smell it outside the car. This has been a problem for about 9 months. The dealer replaced the charcoal canister and pressure tested the fuel system. It was better for a few weeks. It started again and he said a new fuel filter was needed. I tried this and the smell came back a few weeks later. Does anyone have any ideas?
Its too late for me now, but does anyone know how to get the shields off of the spark plugs, and what they do? I could not get them off when I attempted to change the plugs myself, and I was afraid I would crush them if I put channel locks on them. Just gave up and took it to the dealer.
I changed the plugs on my 00 Grand Am SE v6 earlier this year and didn't have any problems installing them. I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say the 'shields'. All you have to do is remove the old ones, put a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plugs and screw them in. I have a the V6 engine, are you referring to a 4 cylinder engine?
Yes, my gas mileage improved dramatically. I would say my mileage increased by about 15-20%. Of course you won't notice the difference for a few fill ups, but I would recommend the Bosch Platinum +4 to any of you GA owners.
I just filled up last night, 383.7 miles, 12.5 gallons = 30.7 mpg. Those are the best numbers that I have gotten, and I've got the V6!
I'm approaching 43,000 miles on my car, are there any problems that you have experienced/noticed around this mileage? I just want to be on the lookout.
One more thing, do any of you have pictures of your Grand Ams that you would be willing to 'pass around' with us regulars here on this board? ...just a thought.
I couldn't get that gas mileage even if I drove on a flat highway at 35 mph! I average 24 mpg with about 2/3 highway and 1/3 stop and go driving with my GT. Sometimes in hot or cold weather I get even lower than 24 mpg.
If I could improve to 27 mpg I'd save about $100 a year in gas. I heard the plugs are about $45 for the set. So it would take me less than 6 months to make up the cost.
And the cost savings would increase dramatically if the cost of gas increases. I wonder how much it would cost to have a garage install the plugs? Or I could try to convince my brother-in-law to bring over his equipment and do it ourselves.
Did you order the plugs over the internet or get them at an auto parts store?
Midlife, I don't think you will see 27 MPG with 1/3 stop and go. I used to commute 65 miles a day and was getting an average of 28 MPG (about 95% highway). I have moved since and now only drive city streets and my gas milage has dropped to the mid to low 20's. BTW, I have the SE V6. Sorry to burst your bubble...
Oh well - the bubble is burst. I logged on to GrandAmGT.com and the debate is raging about the benefits of the Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. Seems like there is a very wide variance of opinion on the subject.
For the record, my 30.7 mpg was the best I have gotten to date. I drive 50 miles round trip to work each day and then if you add in the other driving I do, it's about 2/3 55mph parkway driving with 1/3 35mph driving. So I do drive a lot, I have to get gas about every 6 days or so.
About installation, the only tools you really need are a sprk plug socket (required) and a sockety with an extension. I didn't have the socket extension and it made for really scraped up knuckles on my hands. It took me about 3 hours to change the plugs which is probably longer than it should take, but this was my first time changing them and I also replaced the spark plug wires at the same time.
Midlifecrisis, yes I got the plugs at my local Trak Auto store, they were about $45 for a set of 6. I ordered some blue Taylor wires from partsforyourcar.com.
Don't get me wrong, the stock AC Delco plugs are good, but I have had great sucess with Bosch parts before (I think they make the best oxygen sensors) and I wanted to replace the plugs with better ones. Also, when I went to Trak Auto to get them, there high end AC Delco plugs, but they were literally about 3 times the price of the Bosch.
How many 99+GT owners out there would recommend the Grand Am as a family car? 2nd ?..To all of the people who have modified their cars, what kinda mods have you done, and what kinda results have you gotten? How much did it cost? Are there any body kits out there for the Grand Am (yes I know that the cars already have a smooth look, just wondering)? And what mods would you recommend? and last, how much HP will each mod produce? very kindly, The World Iz Myn
I have a 99 SE1 w/V6 engine and I have over 36K on it. The warranty just expired and while it was under warranty, I had to get a new battery and a new alternater plus have all 4 door panels replaced(peeling from florida heat). but all is well right now and I plan to keep the car until the new model comes out in October of next year. I did see on this site that the remodel is in 2004 though-is this right or not?
I heard that the new remodel will take place for year 2003, which would be available in September 2002. But it would make more sense if it was 2004, because that would be 5 years since the last remodel in 1999.
Has anybody done this yet? It is time for that virgin motor oil to be replaced. It looks real tight under the front of the car. Might have to jack it up a bit? Any tips out there for this job. I havent looked yet. what side is the drain plug located.
bill211.................... It's quite easy but jacking it up will make the job easier. The plug is in the front, behind the license plate. The filter is a bit difficult to get at. There is a long bar that you'll need to push out of the way to drop the filter. Once under there you'll see what I mean. I went to my buddy's shop the other day and we put in Mobil 1. I have 12,000 miles on my 2001 GT (it's one yr. old as of Dec 1) and thought I'd go the extra expense. Have you thought of going with a synthetic?
OK its done and there are a few tips for anybody else trying to do it. For the GT1 model there is a plastic air dam right below the radiator. Remove the two finger screws on either side and behind that is access to the oil filter. plenty of room for hands to unscrew the filter. The drain plug is at the back of the oil pan facing to the rear of the car, very simple. Jacking of the car is mandatory to get to it. I just jacked the passenger front wheel and I had joy. Hope this helps somebody. BTW what filter are you replacing with? AC Delco,WIX or Fram were my top choices. This time I went with Fram...As for oil I dont think synthetic will necessarily lubricate any better or protect the engine any better that the tried and true certified oil that GM uses from the factory. At $4.50 -$5.50 a quart for a true synthetic, not just a blend, I'll just stay with regular motor oil. Thats all I use in my '91 and the oil gallaries are still clean.
My 99 GA, and my daughters 95 GA won't go up on my ramps unless I put some 2 x 6's in front of them and get the front of the car up a little first. Actually, it has to be lifted quite a bit first, making it pretty much impractical to use them. The air dams on the front are to low and hit the ramps before the front wheels make contact. Ditto for my nieces Mustang. I've found it easier to use the floor jack and jackstands for these cars.
I recently purchased a 2001 leasback with approx 36000K on the clock. I have been trying to get some sense of how owners like the vehicle. Seems like people love 'em or hate 'em. Are there things I should watch for? What are they really like? Thanks
We have a 95 Grand Am GT with the 2.3 L engine. We just recently changed the plugs using OEM AC platinum. Car ran fine for a few months, but recently when accelerating through the 5 speed in 3,4 gear we get a power loss and when we back off on the accelerator it is fine. Removed the plugs and regaped, car ran fine for a couple of days then the problem re appeared. Was thinking of changing the boots from the coil to the plugs as they are very worn. Any other thoughts, Thanks Biddy 57
I love my 2001 GT. It'll be 1 yr old tomorrow with nearly 13,000 on the odo. I liked my 95 GA/GT so much that when it was time for a new one I went for a repeat performance with the 2001. Actually, I was dying for a red GA and couldn't pass up a great lease deal on a brandy new red one sitting on the lot! I think the GA's are a lot of car for the money and definitely fun to drive.
The only problem I encountered was a clunking noise in the front which was recently fixed. Some loose steering parts, I believe it was in the linkage. Under warranty of course. Apparently there have been some reports of that same problem with other GA's but really not a common complaint.
Like with any other car you get your lemons but with a ton of GA's on the road there seems to be a good track record of winners versus lemons.
I assume you got a warranty with your GA. The only thing I remember hearing about the GA's is the front discs going at around 30k. Yours have probably been replaced.
My GT1 is also nearing its three year anniversary and will be out of warranty by end of month. It is a super great car and I enjoy driving it now as much as the first time in the driver's seat. It is fast, smooth shifting and so well put together. It handles great and has strong brakes and good traction control. My gas mileage can not compare to those getting close to 30. I average 20 -21 mostly city driving and fast speeds. I rarely go less than 60 mph. I have 25,000 miles and have had only three trips to the dealer in three years. One was to fix a skipping cassette player and one to replace the low speed fan mini relay. The third was to again replace the low blower speed mini relay and to rotate the front rotors which had warped. I was not able to get the Pontiac dealer to pick up the rotor charge of $98. But the brakes do stop better now with the rotor rotation and the car is as tight and rattle free as ever. My favorite things I like about the car are the remote radio controls, the flip down back seat and the tremendous acceleration at all times. I love following your messages midlifecrisis and you seem to drive like I do with a hand on the shift and a hand on the wheel. Since, my other car is a Corvette (1959) it is a natural position for me.
Am also glad Pontiac did not muck with exterior design and will be unchanged until the 2004 model year. I just never stop getting delight when I drive this great car.
I am driving a rental 2001 Grand Am SE1. I have a question. Do the seats in the SE and GT models differ? Not the fabric, the design of the seat itself. I sat in a GT before, and found the seats very comfortable. However, this SE sedan hurts my back. Also, the 2-door feels alot larger in the front than the 4-door does too. Of course, maybe it's because the door is so much bigger.
Vocus - the seats in the GT and SE1 are different from what I remember test driving both. I think the GT seats provide more thigh bolster, are contoured differently, and the headrest is different. Also, the GT seat has a power adjustment as well as a manual control for the lumbar.
Dick59 - I'm jealous about your 59 'Vette! I got to drive my brother-in-law's 69 Shelby Cobrajet Mustang, and now I've got the fever for good old American muscle!
Changed the boots from the coil to the plugs,problem solved car runs fine. Recomend changing the boots when chaging plus. Cost is inexpensive abouts 20.00 at NAPA. Biddy 57
The 1959 Corvette was bought new right out of college and I consider my GT1 to be the closest thing to a four door Corvette I have ever driven. They are both fun to drive but the GT1 has 40 years younger mechanics if you know what I mean plus it has power steering, brakes, seat,remote control radio, and actually more power than the 350 engine currently in the Corvette. But I only get the LOOKS when I drive the Corvette.
I have about 45k on my 2000 Grand Am and am wondering what kind of service (if any) needs to be done now. The last scheduled maintenance I had done was at around 33k. I believe the manual states that the air filter and transmission fluid and filter should be changed. I have an aftermarket K&N air filter, so I think I'm set there. Does anyone have any opinions?
Does anyone have any info on the new EcoTec 2.2 engines in the 2002 GA's? I know everyone says to get the 6 cyl., but I can't seem to find one in the color I want, so I might go with the 2.2... I'm just a little worried about going with an engine I know nothing about. Is it brand new or already tested in other cars?
It's the same 2.2 4 in the 2000-02 Saturn L Series 4-cylinder models. It's a good engine (drove an L Series with this engine), with ample power and great fuel economy. Check out the Saturn L Series board for info on the EcoTech 4.
I am glad all of you are satisfied with your GA's. I wish I had a similar experience to share.
I purchased a 99 GA SE1 in late 98 with the 4 cyl engine. Among the myriad of problems:
The rotors had warped by 25,000 miles (which apparently is a lot of mileage based upon past posts I've read on this board). I took it into the dealer and the service manager actually said "25,000 miles is a lot of miles to get out of a set of rotors" and offered to turn them or replace them at normal service rates. I turned them myself and applied liberal grease to the sliding pins. I managed to get another 30,000 miles out of them before I had to replace them, but they were only good for one turn. I am now on my third set of rotors and second set of brake drums, and still have a pulsing in the pedal and grinding noise coming from the rear drums. My mechanic can't figure out the problem, and I won't let a GM service department look at it. (You'll see why below)
I had the radio repaired for a faulty volume knob under warranty and the knob quit working again shortly after the warranty expired.
The front driver's seat broke on the car after 21 months (car was over mileage warranty). I wrote a complaint letter to GM and they agreed to fix it as a goodwill repair. When I took it to the dealer for the repair, it came back with a big gash on the side center console from the tech running the seat track along the side of the seat while removing or installing the seat. The worst part was that the tech had moved the seat forward to try to cover it up. When I pointed it out to the service department, at first they tried to claim it was there before (although it exactly matched the type of scratch that would occur while removing a seat), but then agreed to order and install a new console. Two weeks later, the service rep. called to say the part was still on order. When I called after a month to find out what the status was, I was informed by the service manager that the service rep. I'd been dealing with had been fired for making promises to the customers without receiving the proper approval, i.e., fraud. Moreover, the part had never been ordered. After an argument, the service manager agreed to order and install the part, although they "normally don't do that type of thing." And even though I'd been lied to by their service rep. and had my car damaged by their careless tech, they still wouldn't provide me transportation for the day because it was a "goodwill" repair and not under warranty. Like I said, I won't let my car near a GM service department again.
There's a lot - I felt it wouldn't be fair to subject you to it all in one post.
About six months after I had my seat fixed under the "goodwill" repair, it broke again (same break in the back support). I subsequently talked to a shop that does repairs on seats and upholstery for local GM dealers, and they told me that for some reason, the GA seats break a lot, much more so than the Alero or Malibu seats.
At around 60,000 miles, I started experiencing a water leak on the passenger rear floor. I found that it was caused by leaks in the sealant used to adhere the vapor barrier to the passenger door. Two treatments of silicone sealant finally took care of this problem.
From about 35,000 miles to about 70,000 miles, the front end developed a squaking type noise when the car went ver even minor bumps in the road. I was never able to get a diagnosis as to the cause, but surmised from reading TSBs on prior model GAs that it was caused by molecular breakdown of the suspension bushings. It wasn't worth tearing down the front end to confirm this as the cause, and thankfully, it went away by itself, likely due to the copious amounts of various lubricants I sprayed on the bushings at every oil change.
At about 75,000 miles, I started to hear a bearing whine in the engine, most noticeable when the air conditioning was on, and most noticeable in the heat. My best guess is that its the alternator bearings going bad. A mechanic I talked to said that unlike most manufacturers who use 7 or 9 bearing assemblies, most GM alternators have only 5 bearing aseemblies; when the serpentine belt is torqued against the fewer bearings, it causes them to wear prematurely. Once summer rolls around, I will likely have to have the alternator replaced.
One of the driver's sidebrake lights failed at about 30,000 miles. No big deal, right? I've now replaced my fourth bulb in the driver's side taillamp assembly, and I know I've seen a TSB floating around about that problem.
I have always experienced the gear whine from the power steering pump that others have complained about. Luckily, nothing has come of it yet.
Both rear wheel cylinders sprung a leak at 67,000 miles
At around 77,000 miles, the automatic transmission started intermittently stuttering during 2nd to 3rd shifts. It does it fairly infrequently, and only during high RPM passing, but its an ominous sign. I had the transmission service done shortly thereafter, but I've still noticed it on occasion. I've babied this car at every turn. Ran it with synthetic oil for the first 10,000 miles, had it serviced every 3,500 miles, and despite the high mileage commute, I drive it very gingerly. I wish I had driven the hell out of it, at least I'd feel some of these problems then had some justification.
At 85,000 miles, the catalytic converter failed. No warning, no OBD light, it just up and failed. And no, I didn't put diesel in it. Nobody could figure out that one.
But here's the kicker. The car just turned 90,000 miles, and the Powertrain Control Module just failed. The car still runs, but about five error codes register in the system, the Service Engine Light comes on and can't be cleared, and the Traction Control has shut off. With the Service Engine Light on, I can't sell it or trade it away - - I'd have to have it fixed so it would pass smog even though the smog equipment is now working fine.
Thw worst part about this is that apparently GM has made a Series I and Series II Powertrain Control Module for the car. The Series I had some sort of defect, so that's why they made the Series II. The Series II costs $500 more than the Series I computer. So basically, GM finds a design flaw in the Powertrain Control Module and uses it to exploit its customers by demanding an additional $500 for a defect-free fix. And the new computer can only be programmed by a GM service dept., so they guarantee themselves at least $130 is labor charges if you need to replace the computer.
I hope all of your GAs continue to function as well as they have, but I am absolutely done with GM. At this point, unless I can get a complete and total fix of all the defective components from GM for free, I am going to litigate this. I have a three and a half year-old car with 90,000 miles that is unmarketable and requires at least $2,000 in repairs just to be saleable. Not that I could sell it with the strange and unidentified sound coming from the rear brakes.
And I know GM is aware of these problems. In a previous post I mentioned the brake problems and tonychrys hinted that GM had developed a larger caliper and rotor design it was installing on 99s under warranty. Also, some of you have gotten free rotors or free resurfacing. I was never offered any of these by my dealer.
A couple of months back I had a business trip and the rental car I got was a 2001 Grand Am. I noticed that it has a completely different Delco radio/CD/eq. system - it looks like the one out of the minivan. I have a hunch that this is due to the faulty volume knob in the old unit. Rather than fix the problem in the old unit, they just give up and slap in another unit. The new unit is not recessed like the old one, but sticks out of the center dash and looks somewhat out of place next to the recessed HVAC controls.
If any of you have the specific TSB numbers for any of these problems, please let me know. I am trying to order the TSBs to confirm the defect fixes and/or prepare for a lawsuit. I do plan to write a letter to GM customer service and the Vice President of Vehicle Sales and Service to try to resolve this without litigation, but I can only be skeptical about the success of a letter campaign at this point.
Most importantly, I'm through with GM cars. The ironic thing is that my wife's 95 GMC Sonoma has been the most trouble free vehicle we've ever owned. We've never had to have any service other than routine maintenance performed on it, and it has over 100,000 miles on it. It also has been in a major front-end collision yet still runs almost as strong as the day it was delivered. I'm glad it hasn't had any problems, because I can just imagine the service horror stories we'd have then.
If any of you can help with the TSB numbers, please post a reply. If you'd like to know the dealers I recevied such terrible service from, please post your interest and I'll e-mail you.
I can kinda sympathize with you. I had bought a used 1996 Cavalier that I kept for 3 months. It was in the shop about 10 times within that time, everything from brakes to the enine computer needing service. This car was under warranty thank God, but still it was inconvenient. Then the dealer's service dept. was very rude on top of it. After I got rid of that car, I vowed then and there that I would not be driving any more GM cars, and probably never another American car.
I can relate with some of the problems you have experienced. I have a 2000 GA v6 and have had no major repairs or replacements of any kind.
I did have my rotors replaced at around 25,000 miles, and my dealer did that without me even asking! They also said that these new rotors are made from a different alloy of metal and are "supossed" to last longer that then previous version. I am now at 43,000 miles and have not had any problems with the rotors.
I too had the water leak develop under the front passenger seat, this was fixed with some silicone sealant, but cost me because the car was out of warranty.
The taillight issue IS a problem, and not just with the Grand Am. I owned a 99 Chevy Malibu and had the exact same problem. Replacing the bulb will not fix the problem, you need to have the fuse panel that the bulb plugs into replaced. I have not had this problem with my 00 Grand Am, but have noticed other Grand Ams and Malibus driving around with the taillight problem.
It sounds like you got a lemon with your 99 Grand Am. It's too bad because it's a great car when you don't have any problems!!
You identified one of the Achilles heal in the GM product. In my experience the cars offer reliable transportation and a good value. While your experience differs, the problem is that the 36/36 warranty. Getting the vehicle serviced, and it will need at least one warranty repair, is an exercise in working with careless idiots - the dealerships are not being held to a level of service that is required to protect relationships with the customer.
In one case, it took four separate service appointments to find and repair a windshield leak. Keeping the story short, on the last visit in addressing this issue I politely requested a loaner vehicle of the service writer considering all of the inconvenience. He took me to see the service manager, who angrily denied my request.
He "reminded" the SW that the last loaner vehicle had yet to be returned and was presumed stolen by the dealership, etc. I took this insinuation to mean that he expected me to steal the loaner also. I was so shocked I had no idea what to say considering my jaw was down around my ankles. I vowed never to use that dealership again. In the mean time, I have found that there are no good (in my case) Chevy dealerships near where I live. I sincerely doubt I will ever buy another GM vehicle unless I am convinced that the car is better than any other and that the service department is concern about CRM.
Anyway, your experiences with the dealership service departments are consistent with mine over the last 9.5 years, so obviously nothing is changing.
Just fyi, took better than 3 weeks and a call to AC Delco 800# (highly recommend) to hunt one down for the bargain price of 11.75. Dealer wanted more, of course.
Our GA SE1 is coming up on 3300 still using the oil from the factory - is there any conventional wisdom on this board for [not] waiting for the oil service light?
Did some surfing/checking for you, my brother has a 99 Grand Am SE1 also but his is V6. TAIL LIGHT BULB: From his RO from the dealer #12335396 Circuit Board . http://www.gmpartsdirect.com lists this at $32.50, selling price $19.50. Check part number before ordering please. Just replacing the bulb will not work if the board is bad. PCM COMPUTER: http://www.auto-parts-for-less.com only shows one for the 4 cylinder and it lists for $179.74 and sells for $145. 60 (when you go to find part go electrical-powertrain control-ecm). Not sure how they would handle any core charge. They do list 2 versions for the V6 Grand Am that you do not have. And if version one was defective it would not still be available to purchase. SEAT: http://www.auto-parts-for-less.com shows a price difference between Malibu and Grand Am Seat Adjusters & Reclinners so they can not be the same. (You didn't say which part broke). The Alero and Grand AM use the same parts so the only difference can be in the fact that more Grand Ams are sold then Aleros. RADIO: The radio that you say is defective is still used by GM. As they upgrade the electrical systems in the car lines the put the newer generation in.
I am sympathetic to ANYONE who has those kinds of problems with a car, but it looks like you quite simply got a lemon. Toyota makes lemons, Ford makes lemons, even Honda makes lemons, sad to say. I don't blame you for being done with GM, and it sounds like your dealers are not exactly legit, although satisfaction surveys with dealers usually have GM dealers in the top third, with Toyota's among the worse. But, there are bad dealers out there, no question! I would say though, that your car has extremely high mileage for 3 years old and wouldn't be marketable anyway. 90000k in 3.5 years is roughly twice the average, which means you will see twice the wear and tear in your vehcile which will exacerbate the problem. I'm not making excuses, just pointing out that that is not typical mileage for a vehcile that new. As for the radios, GM is replacing conventional radios with RDS systems in most vehicles--some only in top models but eventually most likely all, which would explain the different radio--not the volume nob. I personally own an Alero which has the RDS system and is excellent. Anyway, good luck with your repairs.
Also, many of you are probably wondering where everyone has gone. Try checking out this list. There are others, but this is where many from Edmunds has gone to: http://www.grandamgt.com
I just heard that the ecotech oil filter is available at Autozone for $3.95. I only have 200 miles on mine (2002 alero) so I will be heading there to pick one up soon.
It looks like it's much easier to change than the screw-on canister filters. I'm looking forward to this oil change.
Thank you for posting that. Let me know if all comes to be.
Yes, the filter housing is right up front, so it looks like it will be simple enough. Done correctly, there'll be no oil spilled on the engine.
The "filter" is nothing more than the media, a plastic inner shell and a small plastic nipple and gasket on one end (the normal innards with no metal case). I'm guessing mass production costs are about $.09, and shipping weight and volume is much less, so they should end up being cheaper than 3.95. The change interval is comparably longer in that engine (as an average), so we'll see. Still, $4 is way better than 12!
I've never worked on old cars (older than '73), but my dad said at one time most oil filters were like the ecotech type. I don't know how far back you have to go.
You're probably right about the lower manufactured cost, but somehow I doubt the savings will find it's way to the consumer. Remember when headlights were the entire bulb (high/low beam)and housing, and you could buy them for $4-$5?
My daughter came home for the weekend and the '93 Grand Am we bought her to drive to college has a whine coming from the area of the Timing Cover. It's not the alternator. Could this be something serious? It looks fairly difficult to get the cover off as the motor mount passes right thru it so I didn't want to tackle pulling the cover off this weekend, she needs to leave already tomorrow.
Comments
- numerous problems with the cooling system, at least three times to the dealer, but it seems to be OK now.
- water leaks into compartment from driver's side rear door under heavy rain
- engine stalling/poor performance from bad O2 sensor (repaired with a new sensor)
- snapped the end off the stabilizer bar.
- speedometer just stops working at random times. (Same problem with previous Pontiac, I think "Sunbird". The odometer would go backwards too!)
- the fuel door can get stuck in the winter. I fixed it by liberally spraying the hinge with WD-40 and "adjusting (bending) the bracket so that it just holds the door shut.
- minor: the elastic bands around the visors are loose, the lid over the beverage holder is broken, the Grand Am lettering came off the passenger side.
- and right now, the engine kills will after driving on the highway for a while, then stopping, and restarting the car.
I dunno, maybe because the car is silver I don't see it, but the 93 does not have a problem with chipping paint.
What do I like about it? Standard fog lights are nice when it snowing (driving slower and I want to see what's right in front of the car). Also V6 has enough power for me, and its not the GT version. Get 23 mpg for mostly highway driving.
OK, now can someone do me a favor? Does anyone know where I can find the hp rating for this car?
Its too late for me now, but does anyone know how to get the shields off of the spark plugs, and what they do? I could not get them off when I attempted to change the plugs myself, and I was afraid I would crush them if I put channel locks on them. Just gave up and took it to the dealer.
I changed the plugs on my 00 Grand Am SE v6 earlier this year and didn't have any problems installing them. I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say the 'shields'. All you have to do is remove the old ones, put a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plugs and screw them in. I have a the V6 engine, are you referring to a 4 cylinder engine?
Yes, my gas mileage improved dramatically. I would say my mileage increased by about 15-20%. Of course you won't notice the difference for a few fill ups, but I would recommend the Bosch Platinum +4 to any of you GA owners.
I just filled up last night, 383.7 miles, 12.5 gallons = 30.7 mpg. Those are the best numbers that I have gotten, and I've got the V6!
I'm approaching 43,000 miles on my car, are there any problems that you have experienced/noticed around this mileage? I just want to be on the lookout.
One more thing, do any of you have pictures of your Grand Ams that you would be willing to 'pass around' with us regulars here on this board? ...just a thought.
If I could improve to 27 mpg I'd save about $100 a year in gas. I heard the plugs are about $45 for the set. So it would take me less than 6 months to make up the cost.
And the cost savings would increase dramatically if the cost of gas increases. I wonder how much it would cost to have a garage install the plugs? Or I could try to convince my brother-in-law to bring over his equipment and do it ourselves.
Did you order the plugs over the internet or get them at an auto parts store?
JD
About installation, the only tools you really need are a sprk plug socket (required) and a sockety with an extension. I didn't have the socket extension and it made for really scraped up knuckles on my hands. It took me about 3 hours to change the plugs which is probably longer than it should take, but this was my first time changing them and I also replaced the spark plug wires at the same time.
Midlifecrisis, yes I got the plugs at my local Trak Auto store, they were about $45 for a set of 6. I ordered some blue Taylor wires from partsforyourcar.com.
Don't get me wrong, the stock AC Delco plugs are good, but I have had great sucess with Bosch parts before (I think they make the best oxygen sensors) and I wanted to replace the plugs with better ones. Also, when I went to Trak Auto to get them, there high end AC Delco plugs, but they were literally about 3 times the price of the Bosch.
2nd ?..To all of the people who have modified their cars, what kinda mods have you done, and what kinda results have you gotten? How much did it cost? Are there any body kits out there for the Grand Am (yes I know that the cars already have a smooth look, just wondering)? And what mods would you recommend? and last, how much HP will each mod produce?
very kindly,
The World Iz Myn
No more Aleros, Skylarks, Berettas, Corsicas, Achievas, Cutlass Calais!
My two guesses are either they are heat shields, or for radio frequency interference.
Really though, its water over the dam. I'll have a new car before the plugs need to be replaced again.
-IC
Russ
I've found it easier to use the floor jack and jackstands for these cars.
The only problem I encountered was a clunking noise in the front which was recently fixed. Some loose steering parts, I believe it was in the linkage. Under warranty of course. Apparently there have been some reports of that same problem with other GA's but really not a common complaint.
Like with any other car you get your lemons but with a ton of GA's on the road there seems to be a good track record of winners versus lemons.
I assume you got a warranty with your GA. The only thing I remember hearing about the GA's is the front discs going at around 30k. Yours have probably been replaced.
Good luck and enjoy it.
Russ (photodoctor)
Am also glad Pontiac did not muck with exterior design and will be unchanged until the 2004 model year. I just never stop getting delight when I drive this great car.
Dick59 - I'm jealous about your 59 'Vette! I got to drive my brother-in-law's 69 Shelby Cobrajet Mustang, and now I've got the fever for good old American muscle!
Biddy 57
The 1959 Corvette was bought new right out of college and I consider my GT1 to be the closest thing to a four door Corvette I have ever driven.
They are both fun to drive but the GT1 has 40 years younger mechanics if you know what I mean plus it has power steering, brakes, seat,remote control radio, and actually more power than the 350 engine currently in the Corvette. But I only get the LOOKS when I drive the Corvette.
Anybody else change the tranny fluid in their GA?
I purchased a 99 GA SE1 in late 98 with the 4 cyl engine. Among the myriad of problems:
The rotors had warped by 25,000 miles (which apparently is a lot of mileage based upon past posts I've read on this board). I took it into the dealer and the service manager actually said "25,000 miles is a lot of miles to get out of a set of rotors" and offered to turn them or replace them at normal service rates. I turned them myself and applied liberal grease to the sliding pins. I managed to get another 30,000 miles out of them before I had to replace them, but they were only good for one turn. I am now on my third set of rotors and second set of brake drums, and still have a pulsing in the pedal and grinding noise coming from the rear drums. My mechanic can't figure out the problem, and I won't let a GM service department look at it. (You'll see why below)
I had the radio repaired for a faulty volume knob under warranty and the knob quit working again shortly after the warranty expired.
The front driver's seat broke on the car after 21 months (car was over mileage warranty). I wrote a complaint letter to GM and they agreed to fix it as a goodwill repair. When I took it to the dealer for the repair, it came back with a big gash on the side center console from the tech running the seat track along the side of the seat while removing or installing the seat. The worst part was that the tech had moved the seat forward to try to cover it up. When I pointed it out to the service department, at first they tried to claim it was there before (although it exactly matched the type of scratch that would occur while removing a seat), but then agreed to order and install a new console. Two weeks later, the service rep. called to say the part was still on order. When I called after a month to find out what the status was, I was informed by the service manager that the service rep. I'd been dealing with had been fired for making promises to the customers without receiving the proper approval, i.e., fraud. Moreover, the part had never been ordered. After an argument, the service manager agreed to order and install the part, although they "normally don't do that type of thing." And even though I'd been lied to by their service rep. and had my car damaged by their careless tech, they still wouldn't provide me transportation for the day because it was a "goodwill" repair and not under warranty. Like I said, I won't let my car near a GM service department again.
About six months after I had my seat fixed under the "goodwill" repair, it broke again (same break in the back support). I subsequently talked to a shop that does repairs on seats and upholstery for local GM dealers, and they told me that for some reason, the GA seats break a lot, much more so than the Alero or Malibu seats.
At around 60,000 miles, I started experiencing a water leak on the passenger rear floor. I found that it was caused by leaks in the sealant used to adhere the vapor barrier to the passenger door. Two treatments of silicone sealant finally took care of this problem.
From about 35,000 miles to about 70,000 miles, the front end developed a squaking type noise when the car went ver even minor bumps in the road. I was never able to get a diagnosis as to the cause, but surmised from reading TSBs on prior model GAs that it was caused by molecular breakdown of the suspension bushings. It wasn't worth tearing down the front end to confirm this as the cause, and thankfully, it went away by itself, likely due to the copious amounts of various lubricants I sprayed on the bushings at every oil change.
At about 75,000 miles, I started to hear a bearing whine in the engine, most noticeable when the air conditioning was on, and most noticeable in the heat. My best guess is that its the alternator bearings going bad. A mechanic I talked to said that unlike most manufacturers who use 7 or 9 bearing assemblies, most GM alternators have only 5 bearing aseemblies; when the serpentine belt is torqued against the fewer bearings, it causes them to wear prematurely. Once summer rolls around, I will likely have to have the alternator replaced.
One of the driver's sidebrake lights failed at about 30,000 miles. No big deal, right? I've now replaced my fourth bulb in the driver's side taillamp assembly, and I know I've seen a TSB floating around about that problem.
I have always experienced the gear whine from the power steering pump that others have complained about. Luckily, nothing has come of it yet.
Both rear wheel cylinders sprung a leak at 67,000 miles
At around 77,000 miles, the automatic transmission started intermittently stuttering during 2nd to 3rd shifts. It does it fairly infrequently, and only during high RPM passing, but its an ominous sign. I had the transmission service done shortly thereafter, but I've still noticed it on occasion. I've babied this car at every turn. Ran it with synthetic oil for the first 10,000 miles, had it serviced every 3,500 miles, and despite the high mileage commute, I drive it very gingerly. I wish I had driven the hell out of it, at least I'd feel some of these problems then had some justification.
At 85,000 miles, the catalytic converter failed. No warning, no OBD light, it just up and failed. And no, I didn't put diesel in it. Nobody could figure out that one.
But here's the kicker. The car just turned 90,000 miles, and the Powertrain Control Module just failed. The car still runs, but about five error codes register in the system, the Service Engine Light comes on and can't be cleared, and the Traction Control has shut off. With the Service Engine Light on, I can't sell it or trade it away - - I'd have to have it fixed so it would pass smog even though the smog equipment is now working fine.
Thw worst part about this is that apparently GM has made a Series I and Series II Powertrain Control Module for the car. The Series I had some sort of defect, so that's why they made the Series II. The Series II costs $500 more than the Series I computer. So basically, GM finds a design flaw in the Powertrain Control Module and uses it to exploit its customers by demanding an additional $500 for a defect-free fix. And the new computer can only be programmed by a GM service dept., so they guarantee themselves at least $130 is labor charges if you need to replace the computer.
I hope all of your GAs continue to function as well as they have, but I am absolutely done with GM. At this point, unless I can get a complete and total fix of all the defective components from GM for free, I am going to litigate this. I have a three and a half year-old car with 90,000 miles that is unmarketable and requires at least $2,000 in repairs just to be saleable. Not that I could sell it with the strange and unidentified sound coming from the rear brakes.
And I know GM is aware of these problems. In a previous post I mentioned the brake problems and tonychrys hinted that GM had developed a larger caliper and rotor design it was installing on 99s under warranty. Also, some of you have gotten free rotors or free resurfacing. I was never offered any of these by my dealer.
A couple of months back I had a business trip and the rental car I got was a 2001 Grand Am. I noticed that it has a completely different Delco radio/CD/eq. system - it looks like the one out of the minivan. I have a hunch that this is due to the faulty volume knob in the old unit. Rather than fix the problem in the old unit, they just give up and slap in another unit. The new unit is not recessed like the old one, but sticks out of the center dash and looks somewhat out of place next to the recessed HVAC controls.
If any of you have the specific TSB numbers for any of these problems, please let me know. I am trying to order the TSBs to confirm the defect fixes and/or prepare for a lawsuit. I do plan to write a letter to GM customer service and the Vice President of Vehicle Sales and Service to try to resolve this without litigation, but I can only be skeptical about the success of a letter campaign at this point.
Most importantly, I'm through with GM cars. The ironic thing is that my wife's 95 GMC Sonoma has been the most trouble free vehicle we've ever owned. We've never had to have any service other than routine maintenance performed on it, and it has over 100,000 miles on it. It also has been in a major front-end collision yet still runs almost as strong as the day it was delivered. I'm glad it hasn't had any problems, because I can just imagine the service horror stories we'd have then.
If any of you can help with the TSB numbers, please post a reply. If you'd like to know the dealers I recevied such terrible service from, please post your interest and I'll e-mail you.
I can relate with some of the problems you have experienced. I have a 2000 GA v6 and have had no major repairs or replacements of any kind.
I did have my rotors replaced at around 25,000 miles, and my dealer did that without me even asking! They also said that these new rotors are made from a different alloy of metal and are "supossed" to last longer that then previous version. I am now at 43,000 miles and have not had any problems with the rotors.
I too had the water leak develop under the front passenger seat, this was fixed with some silicone sealant, but cost me because the car was out of warranty.
The taillight issue IS a problem, and not just with the Grand Am. I owned a 99 Chevy Malibu and had the exact same problem. Replacing the bulb will not fix the problem, you need to have the fuse panel that the bulb plugs into replaced. I have not had this problem with my 00 Grand Am, but have noticed other Grand Ams and Malibus driving around with the taillight problem.
It sounds like you got a lemon with your 99 Grand Am. It's too bad because it's a great car when you don't have any problems!!
In one case, it took four separate service appointments to find and repair a windshield leak. Keeping the story short, on the last visit in addressing this issue I politely requested a loaner vehicle of the service writer considering all of the inconvenience. He took me to see the service manager, who angrily denied my request.
He "reminded" the SW that the last loaner vehicle had yet to be returned and was presumed stolen by the dealership, etc. I took this insinuation to mean that he expected me to steal the loaner also. I was so shocked I had no idea what to say considering my jaw was down around my ankles. I vowed never to use that dealership again. In the mean time, I have found that there are no good (in my case) Chevy dealerships near where I live. I sincerely doubt I will ever buy another GM vehicle unless I am convinced that the car is better than any other and that the service department is concern about CRM.
Anyway, your experiences with the dealership service departments are consistent with mine over the last 9.5 years, so obviously nothing is changing.
Our GA SE1 is coming up on 3300 still using the oil from the factory - is there any conventional wisdom on this board for [not] waiting for the oil service light?
I would say though, that your car has extremely high mileage for 3 years old and wouldn't be marketable anyway. 90000k in 3.5 years is roughly twice the average, which means you will see twice the wear and tear in your vehcile which will exacerbate the problem. I'm not making excuses, just pointing out that that is not typical mileage for a vehcile that new.
As for the radios, GM is replacing conventional radios with RDS systems in most vehicles--some only in top models but eventually most likely all, which would explain the different radio--not the volume nob. I personally own an Alero which has the RDS system and is excellent. Anyway, good luck with your repairs.
http://www.speedhut.com/15orders_el_detail.asp?part_num=E-PO-GRANDAM-SE-99-00
To find out more about that site, just go to http://www.speedhut.com
Also, many of you are probably wondering where everyone has gone. Try checking out this list. There are others, but this is where many from Edmunds has gone to: http://www.grandamgt.com
It looks like it's much easier to change than the screw-on canister filters. I'm looking forward to this oil change.
Yes, the filter housing is right up front, so it looks like it will be simple enough. Done correctly, there'll be no oil spilled on the engine.
The "filter" is nothing more than the media, a plastic inner shell and a small plastic nipple and gasket on one end (the normal innards with no metal case). I'm guessing mass production costs are about $.09, and shipping weight and volume is much less, so they should end up being cheaper than 3.95. The change interval is comparably longer in that engine (as an average), so we'll see. Still, $4 is way better than 12!
I've never worked on old cars (older than '73), but my dad said at one time most oil filters were like the ecotech type. I don't know how far back you have to go.
You're probably right about the lower manufactured cost, but somehow I doubt the savings will find it's way to the consumer. Remember when headlights were the entire bulb (high/low beam)and housing, and you could buy them for $4-$5?
Anyway, I'll let you know about the filter.