Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Read my posts # 229 and 231 in this same thread.
By turning the lights to the maximum brightness your dash lights may not flicker but your headlights are still switching on and off ..?
I have so far judged my issue to be related to the (mis)behavior of the sensor (doing something that it is not supposed to do ..?) ..
I have this problem in all kinds of weather..
I do not see this problem after it is dark outside.
I have never seen this behavior when I cover the sensor with a cap or something else ...
The scariest thing is that while my I'm sitting at a light (or anytime I have the brakes applied for more than 20 secs.), the lights may come on and with each appearance my brakes makes a noise and the pedal "falls" down a notch under my foot.
I don't know if this is a sensor problem or if the ABS and/or Traction Control systems are failing. The On/Off button for the trac cont seems to be useless during these experiences. Any ideas or similar war stories out there?
climate control, and overhead console just
flickers between the full on (the level when the
lights are off) and the dim setting.
Does this phenomena happen even when your headlight switch is turned to the off position ..?
In my case .. this phenomena happens only when my headlight is in the ON position.
At the time the dash lights, radio,
climate control, and overhead console lights get set to the bright position ( the level when the lights are off ) .. at this time my headlights are also getting switched off ....
As I have said before .. none of this happens when it is dark outside..
About the history of my car ....
I once had to get the driver's side window motor replaced.
The car has been otherwise flawless and a pleasure to drive ....
Excuse my impudence .. but I enjoy it more than my friend's 1999 Lincoln Continental.
About a month after driving my new 2000 Concorde, I began to hear a rattle in the front end during slow braking. This rattle grew worse until I took it into my dealer. The dealer acknowledged a TSB on the front struts and agreed to replace one side. (What a cheesy deal...last time I checked a car had two struts in the front). After the car stayed in the shop for 5 days, I got it back. Everything was fine for about a week, when the other side began making the same noise. (Gee, Duh, that's a real surprise since the car was built using a substituted part from the factory you would think DChrysler would be a little proactive and fix what is eventually going to break). Upon inspection, the dealer noticed that the replacement strut was now leaking and the other (previously unchanged) strut was having problems. Of course, there was never any offer of a loaner car and the parts are on back order. Indeed, my car is a $28K rattle trap. At this point, I am incredibly frustrated and disappointed in the 2000 Concorde. I guess this is what Lemon Laws are for.
windows sticking in the up position. The problem occurred in the heat of the day and when it cooled
down outside I was able to lower windows. I have found out that damp moisture has got into the window tracks causing them to stick at the top
rubber part. The Dealer said it is a problem and
the tracks and upper rubber parts needs regular
cleaning with lubrication in tracks and on rubber. They said with silicone for lubrication.
I understand that a lot of customers with Chrysler concord 's, 300m 's and LHS 's have
been burning out power window motor's because of the problem.
My dad 's 1999 Chrysler LHS burned out his drivers window motor because of the problem.
Note! neither myself or my dad have a garage
to keep a car in so both vehicles are in the
outside weather at all times.
Have not had your problem, but noticed the system ground terminal mounted under the battery when replacing it a couple of years ago. This is not a good place for the system ground as it could become corroded and possibly create all sorts of control problems.
Just to make sure it wouldn't happed to me, I added an additional ground wire and fastened it to a screw next to the hood bumper.
If you haven't been able to get your problems fixed as yet,you might try adding a temporary ground with a jumper from the battery ground (black) to a good clean shinny bolt or nut. Also before you give up and buy a Ford, look at the "blue oval" site.
Good luck, ramron
That link is http://www.blueovalnews.com/
People buying M/B also consider Chrysler Concorde ..?
LOL.......welcome to the world of Chrysler. This is ONE time when the "5-STAR" dealer says "they all do this", believe it!! LOL... I assume that your Concorde has the same "learning" transmission as my 99 300M. I have the SAME experiences as you! One way to change the pattern for a while anyway is to pull the TCM fuse under the hood. On my 300, it's located on the driver's side, behind the windshield washer container. Lift the cover off the long black box there. Look for the fuse that says TCM. Pull it out for 15 minutes or longer and then replace it. This will erase the tranny's memory and start learning your driving patterns all over again. It may shift rough for about 100 miles or so, then calm down. This will last for several months until it needs to be done again.
fastdriver - THANKS FOR THE TIP ON RESETTING THE TRANSMISSION! I only have occasional rough downshifts while cornering at just the right (or wrong) speed. Upshifts are still smooth as silk.
I have been having a problem w/ the AC, it seems when I park w/the windows closed and it gets hot in the passenger area, the AC will work for a little while then blow hot air. I know when this is going to happen because the speedo will start erratic movement, the airbag light come on and other trouble lights in the dash seem to flicker off and on.
Any help or thoughts???
Thanks to any and all. By the way, I've had many different cars, and this Concord is a very fine road car. I enjoy it very much.
Trying going to: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov and then click on problems and issues under the red car. Then click on TSB and put in the appropriate info for your car. You might find something there.
Has anyone out there had any experience with blown engines at low mileage. If so, what did they do for you? Chrysler says they will take it to original specs. They didn't even want to pay for my renatl car. Incidentally this happened about 200 miles from my home.
Any experiences out there?
The A/C system has built-in diagnostics. Follow the procedure in allpar.com. Set the temp to 75 degrees, and press the 3 control buttons called out(not the A/C compressor button) and read the problem code.
The blend air door could also be sticking when hot. You can reach it by removing the console. Good luck.
I think the shifting is all done with clutches. The must lock and unlock in various sequences and that takes time. The downshift to 1st is a major gear change. On my 3.3L the computer slows the engine with the idle air motor in the throttle body. You need a clean throttle body and need to keep your foot off the gas pedal until it shifts or it will jerk and stress the transmission.
I think the 3.5L actually turns off the spark to slow the engine for this shift. We just have to learn to be patient and let transmission shift to low before accelerating.
a 1998 Chrysler concorde LXI and should I be
Email me at
There's a specific TSB relating to the front-end sounds coming from your Concorde (sort of halfway between a squeak and a grind, isn't it?); it relates to the struts. My 2000 LXi was making the same noises, and when I took them the TSB numbers (you can get them from either the NHTSA site or the alldata site), they had no trouble locating the problem and ordering the parts to fix it.
Otherwise, with 10,900 on the clock, I have to say I'm very happy with my car. The interior noise, about which we hear so much, sometimes bothers me and sometimes doesn't. In any event, it never bothers me so much that I'm willing to pony up the bucks for Michelin tires (the stock Goodyears are much less than impressive in that respect, and Michelins come recommended). The car handles extremely well, both on the open road and on back highways, and I've just about figured out where the front end is, which makes parking in garages and so forth much less nerve-wracking (turning the lights on for the docking process helps gage distance). The A/C system is working like a champ in these 90+ degree days. Other than the struts and the driver's safety belt recall, I've had no mechanical or electrical problems of any nature. Periodic wipe-downs with one of those electro-static dusting cloths (I keep a small box in the trunk for the purpose) keep the dash and doors clean, and Hide Food (available at $11.00 (!!!) or so per jar at your favorite Jag dealership) is doing well by the leather.
One thing that does chap, however, is DC's decision to replace deep slate with true black for the 2001 model year. I'd wanted black, I still want black, and for the next ten or so years I'm condemned to watching other folks drive black Concordes. A small gripe, true, but it still niggles.
Am I fully confident in the car's long-term reliability? No, and quite frankly, I wouldn't be with any car, of any make or model. "Reliability" is inherently an ex-ante concept, but you never can know about it until after the fact. My 1984 Tercel has been marvellously reliable, and with 218,500 it still is, but there's no way I could have known it when I bought it used in 1987 with 67,000 on the clock. Would I buy a Concorde again? You bet. Am I happy with my local dealer's service department? Blissful.
I have mentioned in a few of my earlier posts about a vague 'flickering' issue I have had with my dashboard and head lights.
Yesterday morning ..my car refused to start for the 1st 2-3 tries ..( I have never had a starting problem ever..)
It would flash all the dashlights and then try to start but die out in a couple of seconds. After a couple of tries I got the car started ..
My gut feeling was an electrical problem due to a short or something ..?
Opened up the hood (as if I understand anything..?) to check for anything unusual but found nothing ..
I was late for work so I thought of taking it to the dealership during lunch break.
On the way ..the air conditioner and radio went off but started again after a few seconds .. After this happened a couple of times I switched off both.
After a mile the battery light came on ..
Then the ABS and traction lights came on and I felt the car brake itself (I think ) for a second ..
The ABS and traction lights would come on and off intermittently.
When I reached the office parking lot .. I turned on the headlight and the dash lights flickered and the car applied brakes ( I think ) for a second.
I parked the car and turned it off. Now I tried to start the car and ..nothing ... no lights ..no instrument lights ...no response ..nothing .... The interior lights were off. I opened the glove box and it was dark inside ..
Finally ..called Chrysler Roadside Assistance and had it towed to the dealership ...
They agreed to take it to a dealership near my residence rather than the nearest dealership at no extra cost.
Now it has been nearly 24 hours in the dealership but I have not heard anything from the 5 star guys.
I just called them up and they said that they haven't had a chance to look at it yet ..
Shall write back with further updates ..
I received a call from the dealer saying the car has been fixed . I will probably pick it up later today .
He told me that the battery had to be replaced because it failed the load test..
I was thinking .. If it was a problem with the battery then I should have had atleast a hint of a starting problem in the previous days ..
Moreover .. I had managed to get the car started after it had sat overnight ..
The car would not start after I had driven it for a 8-10 miles and reached office.
Anyway .. Will post here after I pick up the car and anything comes up again ..
It doesn't really help you much, but the syndrome is not so strange anymore.
Invoice says that they checked the 'starting system'. It was good. Then they performed a load test on the battery which failed. So they replaced the battery. All systems working fine since.
The car seems to be fine. As expected ..the radio and other presets were lost. But I din't have to retrain Homelink.
The learning-transmission seems to be shifting better than ever.
The alldata website is www.alldata.com; it's a subscriber service, so Joe Bloggs the Consumer can't get into all the nittty gritty details, but there is a publicly available part where you can get the TSBs and recalls numbers for your year, make, and model. The National Highway Transporation Safety Authority (NHTSA) also has a site, with more complete public information that alldata; their web's address is www.nhtsa.dot.gov; they've got lots o' neat stuff, including complaints and so forth. Having the numbers handy can really help out when you're given the "Aw-shucks-we-can't-find-nothing-wrong with-that-car-maybe-you're-usin'-bad-gas" routine. Go forth and conquer. The underlying problem with the struts (if I understood the service wonks correctly) is that the oil has leaked from the struts. The replacement part is some sort of cap which will allegedly prevent that from recurring . . . although if it's leaked once it can leak again. But at least I now know what's the problem. And so do you.
batteries do just die on occasion for no explainable reason. you really can't blame christine for a battery failure. however, you can blame chrysler for buying subpar batteries!