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Comments
Well maybe I'd check the positive cable on the battery for corrosion between the two separate positive cables that are both clamped to one post. Separate them and check for corrosion. Check the ground wire while you're there.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Be careful around the airbag when you're messing around with wiring under there, though.
thanks,
guy who should've spent more on his daughters school car!!
A tip broke off an arm like protrusion on the back of my door handle - supergluing did no good as I was able to easily snap it off again. A replacement handle was $93 at my dealer (ouch). I replaced it in about 2 hours, working slow and carefully - all is well now.
Put window up. Remove the inner door panel by removing 3 screws total. Two are located in the arm rest (below the little plastic panel that can be removed using a flat blade screw driver – it needs to be bent up slightly), and the other screw is located behind the door light (use flat blade screw driver to pop out the light). Lift the panel up and a number of clips behind the panel will release as you lift the panel up. Disconnect the wire harness.
There is a black vinyl covering stuck with some kind of black putty to the inner door below the panel. It can be pulled away enough to access the door handle area without removing it completely. I had to pull it off the top two black plastic fasteners and left side, but was able to leave the right side and bottom still stuck on.
Unclip the lock latch rod (bottom black clip), remove the two bolts holding the handle – the left side bolt is a little trickier to get at and you’ll need a small 10mm wrench to get at it. The right bolt is easily accessible. The handle will now partially pop out. You now need to unhook the upper latch rod (black clip). The handle will now come out.
Don’t worry if you drop one of the bolts in the door – you can easily reach a thin arm down to the bottom of the door!
Take the key lock out and put it into your new handle and follow these steps backwards to put your door back together.">
Turn your key on and go stand beside the rear or the car. You'll hear the compressor run to adjust the pressure in the shocks.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Second the rear speakers, I replaced my rear decks with pioneer speakers from cruthfield, you will need to get some adaptive stuff at the local parts store to make the conections. I did not do anything else and the upgrade is well worth it.
Here's a pic of the new beast...
It had around 56,300 miles on it when I bought it, although I've only put about 260 on it since I've had it. It was previously owned by a 65 year old lady who bought it new, and traded on a 2010 LaCrosse CXS. Hopefully it'll last a long, long time!
I used a 8" long drill bit I got 15 years ago at Wright Hardware in Costa Mesa
CA so I also made it 1/8" drill size ,I like the plug idea I might use it.. My hole is so
small that it only the size of paper clip. If my gas gets under 1/4 tank it does
the same thing over and over again so I keep the paper clip in the junk box between
the seats. Has anyone had to replace or repair the cup holder yet? Has anyone
got the oil pressure read out un working? 99 Park Ultra
What does the oil pressure do? A common failure of the sender is to peg the unit or give a readout of 120 psi on the DIC. The sender screws in above the oil filter on the normally aspirated 3800s.
You might do troubleshooting by removing the wire or wires at the sender.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
What type size are you using ? At the moment I have a mishmash of 3 different
brands. I thought it might be the shocks. I will try the Michelin's..
grab the entire panel. Now that I have visited this great forum I now how to remove it!
finger the actuates the rod that interfaces with the door latch. In my process the
latch lock male part in the door. I simply drilled a small hole into the pot metal
of the outside door handle and screwed a brass screw I had in my junk can. Used
Electrical tape to make the lever the right outside demension. Mechanically that
metal finger broke because the door latch was dying . The Door Latch is manufactured
with two parts sandwiched together the actuator helt together by 2" rivets. The Actuator can be bought at auto-zone for 19.00. You can drill out the rivets than
attach the actuator by 2" threaded stove bolts and nuts 1/8". Plug in the plugs
and attach the lock done. In my case the actuator the ELECTRICAL part died
the door latch was fine. I do not like to paint and match because the diamond
white triple coat is a bear to get right.
1 middle for gate and rear for garage door two. Hit the reset button on DIC and it is done. If you wish I can scan the original owners manual for you.
Sign up at http://www.gm.com/gmownercenter/gm/ and you can read the owner manual on there. I tried to download one but haven't been successful.
After you register your vehicle, which you can do without VIN number, just make year etc., it has a little text area to let you download a pdf of the owner manual.
The manual is free. Do not pay for it anywhere.
You can send an email address to my email and I'll send the downloaded manual to you. Click on my user name at top of this post and read my profile; the email is at the end.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks,
Mike
Turn the heater to OFF. Then turn the key to OFF.
Turn key to ON, and see if the noise occurs after waiting several seconds.
Then turn the heater to ON and see if the noise occurs then.
You might have an actuator that's not working right or a gear is stripped or slipping inside. If the air direction choices work right and the temps adjust correctly, everything is probably okay.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have an old fob from a 2000 impala that has the same FCC ID# on the back of the one that currently works for my park avenue. Am I correct in assuming it will work for the park avenue also?
Thanks,
Mike
If your Impala unit doesn't match, search on EBAY for the GM/UTA number and see what matches you get from sellers.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It might have gotten a spike with the charged battery and the charger both cranking the motor.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If you know how to use a voltmeter/ohmmeter, the best thing is to pull the fuse and test for continuity with the tester.
Note that in that block, #16, 21, 23, 24 are spares. So you might be able to switch your fuses with a new one in the spare slot.
The second fuse block is under the passenger side dash. Take off the hush panel with a few screws under the dash. There are 4 spare fuses there BUT NONE of the fuses appear by the label to be radio related.
I don't see any that seem to be radio related under the hood in that fuse block.
I notice on page 3-31 of your owners manual it says, "If your battery loses power for any
reason, you must unlock the radio with the secret code
before it will operate."
Does the radio show "LOC"?
do you find a 3 or 4 digit code number in the papers in the glovebox?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also my car has a TWO pin connector on the oil pressure sensor, I have not been able to find another. Every one I see has 3 pins.
BTY the service manual only shows the 3 pin connectors.
I checked the glove box manual for your car and the amps are not listed in there. If I recall there are cigar lights in the rear doors on those? But my lighter and aux outlet are in the dash and the fuses are under the hood for mine.
My car has 20 amp for the cigar lighter and the auxiliary power. Also, one or both of those have the ability to be plugged in adjacent by one notch which makes them stay on permanently rather than turning off with the key or the delayed power control. I.e., there are three plugs, and the fuse can be in A&B, or B&C.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
okay, my buick started off fine, then about 6 months ago, the battery just started draining. sometimes, it would take a couple of days, but since the battery's got warn down, it now takes a few hour to go dead. i replaced the battery 2 times.(big waste of money lol) the car will start, but it needs to receive a jump to do so. it will run with the battery unplugged, so its not the alternator. the vats system acts up to. like sometimes it will take me 10-20 minutes to start it cause of that. when i try to start it when its dying, it makes a strange very fast clicking sound in the relays. and the ac turns on when it wont start aswell. when it does start, everything is fine except for the light indicator(the thingy that tells u when a bulb is out). the 8 red lights on it blink fast. i checked all the bulbs, they are all fine. someone told me that the computer under the dash could be bad, but i pulled that, and everything was fine. i even started it without the entire computer hooked up, and it made no difference to anything. my buick sat for a few months, due to lack of money. but i have the money now, and i really want to get this thing running correctly. any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advanced.
Some people could hit that area with their heel and change the connection in the ground buss due to the corrosion. You might see if that affects it.
Are you in an area with lots of rain or snow so that moisture (slush with salt) gets dripped there as your feet come into the car over the years?
2. The weak power when it won't start that causes relays to not work sounds like connections at the battery or grounds under the hood area. The battery has double or multiple positive cables. Pull those apart and look at the lead spacer in between for corrosion. Those are available new for replacement. Also cut back into the copper cable and pull the plastic back tosee if the cable has been corroded by battery acid and is partly eaten up.
Check the lower ends of the positive cable at the starter. You might want to remove ground wire from battery first to prevent arc overs if you remove and retighten connections.
3. The starter might not be making connection. Locate the starter housing under the front of the motor. Have someone tap on it with a hammer while you turn the key to crank, especially when the VATS system appears to not be allowing engine crank.
Does the security light flash on and off after you try the key 3 times and it fails to crank? That's the VATS system. When you insert key and turn to ON, there should be a short flash of the security light as the TDM reads the code resistance to match to the original the first time it was started at the factory. does the light stay on meaning a mismatch? Or does the light go off after turning the key until the third try to crank?
4. 1994 and 1995 models in leSabre have the most failures and anomalous problems due to the computers. If someone has one you can switch with yours, that would be good. I've read a lot of posts where people chased problems that would come and go giving all kinds of symptoms and codes at times. Then they find the computer replacement fixed it.
They are relatively cheap for replacement. I believe you transfer your chip from the old one to the new one. But you are getting other symptoms than just codes or poor running at times or dying. I think you have other problems or combinations, especially since the car has sat for a time.
The Park Avenue and leSabre were so similar they were combined into the same factory service manual for 1993 and I assume up to 1995 when they changed to the newer, Riviera/Aurora body and chassis derived automobile.
Good luck.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Have you checked air pressure and set it to the door jamb recommendation to test?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,