Newcomer here. When I see used Park Avenues (or LeSabres, for that matter), I notice that the front seat leather always seems to be worn & dirty - even if the car is just a year old. This is not the case with Caddy, Lexus, Jag, Benz, etc. Does Buick use a cheaper grade of leather or an inferior leather finish?
Hi all, my dad is considering getting a P.A. We found a '99 Ultra with leather, pwr/heated seats, sunroof, cd/cass, chrome wheels...what appears to be all the goodies, for $13,307, with 52k miles. It's a very nice car. Would you recommend this vehicle? What problems have been had with this particular year and model? Currently GM has a big bite in our family fleet, with 2 pontiacs, a toyota and a ford, and I'm sure dad would like to replace the oldest GM, a '93 SSEi Bonneville, 120k, with this Ultra. What do you think? I take it since this isn't a very active forum, that there haven't been very many problems. Is that true?
Sounds like the same problem I had with my 94 Park Ave. I went from Goodyears to Michelin Symmetry's and then back to Goodyears. There was no change in the vibration until I had the wheels balnaced on the car, just like 20 years ago. I had a hard time finding a place that still did it. Apparently there was something else besides the wheel/tire that was out of balance.
I forgot to post, as if anyone who reads the Park Avenue forum doesn't read the LeSabre forum, that my parents went with a '00 LeSabre. On another note, what does everyone think about '05 being the last year for the Park Avenue?
My 91 PA occasionally will not start. The symptom of the problem is a bit confusing. The Battery is fine. The starter is fine. I have replaced the ECU. It seems if i wait for 5 or ten minuets the car will start. Other times, a jump will work. Is it possible that the problem lies in the security system? If it is the security system, can i disable the system? any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
I am looking at a 94 PA Ultra to purchase as second vehicle. Primarily to share with my teenagers,while mother gets the use of the primary vehicle. The PA I am looking at has 159 000 miles. I intent to have the vehicle inspected by a certified mechanic prior to purchase.
What can be done to identify the condition of the supercharger?What kind of mileage would I expect from this vehicle. I did notice the cruise control doesn't work. I also noticed a noise coming from the left front,I think is related to the traction control as when I switched traction control there no noise. I was impressed as to how this vehicle handled in the snow and ice. I many miles would I reasonably expect to get out of this car? Should I expect to get 200K or better?
Can anyone point out any other inherant problems with this vintage?
My sister has a '93 Bonneville SSEi, with the same engine as what is in the PA, the supercharged 3.8. It gets about 26mpg on the highway, 18 around town. It has 125k miles on it, and was owned by my parents from 40k to 115k miles. We had numerous problems with the alternator, water pump (both replaced numerous times), starter, the ABS/traction control quit working, windows and door locks quit working, cd player quit working, power antenna quit, and now the torque converter is going out, therefore she has to drive it in regular Drive, rather than O/D.
As far as the supercharger goes, the one on her SSEi is intermittant meaning sometimes it'll kick in and sometimes it won't, leaving the car to be very anemic in it's acceleration. It also rattles very loudly and sounds like the waterpump is about to go. There is a special GM Supercharger oil that you should buy (I think it's close to 10 bucks for a little bottle of it) that will prevent this and keep the supercharger working properly. The major concerns I would have with this vehicle would of course be the supercharger, and the transmission. Other than that, if everything seems to be working well, I don't see why you couldn't get it up to at least 200k.
Keep in mind, I said it was a small bottle, it's like 8 ounces if even that. It's a special "supercharger" oil. I'm going to visit my sister tomorrow, so I'll read the bottle and tell you what it contains.
From what I've heard, this generation had several transmission issues, but I think most of the failures occured at less than 150k miles. I'd check and see if this car has ever had the tranny replaced. Once you take it to a mechanic, have him check the transmission, and the first thing I'd do if I got it is have the transmission flushed and a conditioner added. Good luck.
If you read msg 216, I had the same problem. Now, the security system won't allow me to start the car at all. I need to bypass the security in order to bump the starter and allow fuel to flow to the engine. Do I have to get a new "computer" or can I go directly to the starter?
My 1991 PA will not start. When turning the key forward all lights work but there is nothing....when i jump the starter it turns over runs for a second and then stops! Any ideas anyone?
my 96 park ave. makes a whining-grinding noise that parallels with the rpms of the enginge. while drivigng the car you think its the transmission but when you raise the hood you can hear it around the power steering pump which i had replaced. could it be a bearing in the ac compressor or anything else. has anyone else experinced this. car has 105000 miles garaged kept in great shape. the tranny has been checked out ok. rick or rpraborn
Hello all. I have a 1995 PA. The Cruise Control will not stay engaged unless I hold the brake pedal up with my foot. Also, when driving without cruise engaged the car will shift in and out of overdrive erratically. If I hold the pedal up the car will shift to overdrive, down shift when I accelerate, and basically run perfectly. But the minute I let that brake pedal drop to normal position things go squirrelly. I am so irritated I'm about to bungee cord the brake pedal to the steering column. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hi, I don't have an answer for your problem but I was wondering if you figured out the cause? You see my father is having the same problem you are describing but without the low battery, and we don't really know where to start! We were thinking the sending unit might be stuck but are not really sure. We disconnected the battery and the gauge still is pegged. If you or anyone else can help PLEASE reply!!!!! Thanks, Dave
Since noone has gotten back to you on this, I will make a guess. There is a switch that tells the computer when you step on the brake. I suspect that this is not where it should be to indicate that the brake is not engaged. It should be adjustable, and I would take it to a Buick dealer unless you can do it yourself or know a good mechanic.
The fuel gage and ABS brake light warning signals failed at the same time. The gage constantly reads empty and the ABS light stays on. This occured when parking the car on a steep incline and has never returned to normal. The fuel gage does go to full for about one second when first starting. The ABS system was checked and not found defective. The local Buick Dealer could not determine cause. I suspect a wire shared by both the fuel level sensor system and the ABS warning light system must have been cut. Anyone have a similar problem or an idea on finding/fixing the problem ?
In reading the various posts on front end vibration - mine ran great for about 70k then developed a vibration - the cause was belt slippage in a tire. Replaced tires and the problem was fixed - I'm using Michlen Symetrys. My wife had a similar problem on her 97 PA and the fix was the same.
Having a heck of a time replacing a bulk for my license plate. Any idea how to do this ? I can't seem to figure out how to take the darn thing apart.........thanks
I am new to this board so please excuse my ignorance...I have recently assumed the care of my elderly mother and her 2003 PA/Ultra...when I took it in for it's state inspection I was told that the front brakes required significant work to pass state standards. I elected to get a second opinion and was told that the problem was with the caliper system. I had little choice but to pay a chunk of money to have the calipers , pads, and hardware replaced in order to pass inspection. My question is this: is it considered normal for some thing like this to occur on a vehicle that is not driven hard, garaged, and with approximetly 26,000 miles on the odometer? I am underwhelmed with this vehicle and wonder if I should sell it and look into a more dependable one. Any suggestions or comments?
I have a 93 PA Ultra that has shut off on me a few times while driving, usually while braking. All the red lights by the oil and engine temp flash and rpms drop, then the engine either shuts off completely or it goes back to running just fine (more often). Has this happened to anyone? Any ideas what it could be?
No 26000 miles is way too soon, I think you're getting ripped off. Please don't trust dealers especially. I took my 99 for an oil change a few times recently. After the first time I was told I needed a new oil pan gasket for $200, I said OK. Soon after the car started leaking oil on the driveway. I am an aircraft mechanic btw. I took it in again for another oil change, asked about the oil leak, was told it wasn't the oil pan gasket, but now the head gasket, $1000.00. I checked the valve cover gaskets, the bolts holding them down were somewhat loose, not grossly, but loose. I tighten'd them, voila, no more leaking. I read recently that dealers are having to make more money off service to make up for the lower prices they are selling cars for.
Next don't sell the car, it probably is a nice car and was voted best large sedan recently by consumer reports above even Lincoln Town Car. The resale is horrible on the Park Ave, so you'd loose you butt.
Well, I also have a 91 PA, and mine quit on me and wouldn't start. I took it in and it was the Ignition Module, which cost about $300. However mine would'nt even start with a jump though, so maybe this isn't your problem.
I agree totally. I have a 91 PA with 131K on it and still running great. I am experiencing a problem with the wipers though. Wipers won't work on intermittant but fine on low and high speeds. Any trouble shooting tips would be appreciated.
I may be "in the wrong pew" here, but I have a worry over my 98 PA with only 68K on the clock. I'm getting slippage in the transmission. From a dead stop I get a shudder when I goose it (normal acceleration OK). The fluid is up, and color/smell is OK. Any ideas?
Since this is a front wheel drive car, it's likely that your problem is the constant velocity joint (aka CV joint). These are normally replaced as a pair, ie both the passanger and drivers side at the same time. I've never done the job myself, so that's about as much as I can tell you.
I have a 1996 Park Avenue with DynaRide. It has only 20K miles on it so I can't see how the supspension parts could be worn out. This thing is dangerously soft in the suspension. I understand this car has the same chassis as the Aurora and Riveria. I'd like to know if I can purchase some suspension parts for the Riveria and install them as a direct replacement into this Park Avenue and get a stiffer/safer ride.
I also have a guage problem. I disconnected the batery cable & now my temp guage & the fuel gauge have quit working, would you have any idea of the problem? Thanks Levig
My 98 PA has got 105K miles in it. For the last few weeks I am facing the following problems: 1. The fuel Indicator took around trip and stuck in the other side, not coming back. 2. Whenever I start the engine it doesn't recognize me and says UNRECOGNIZED DRIVER and the Trip odometer reset. All meters trips to the maximum then settles. 3. Sometimes, While driving all the lights in the dashboard glows, headlight stops and then comes back again, all meters trips to maximum, then settles. All these happens momentarily. Engine runs fine. 4. Yesterday gave me a hard time starting the car after I drove some time.
Any idea about these problems? Your suggestion will be much appreciated.
I have an 86 PA and the stock radio went out completely and I managed to find another Delco radio. However, it is from a 97 model GM. The wiring doenst match up obviously. Do they have a wiring harness for this? If they do, Where can I get my hands on it?
have a 92 buick spuercharger. having a heckova time putting on drive belt. does the motor mount have 2 be moved or is there some secret 2 getting this belt on? Plz help! :confuse:
I read every single posted message on this board while considering the purchase of my 1998 Park Avenue, in addition to getting input from a cousin in Flint because I was debating between the Park Avenue with 80,000 miles and a 1998 LeSabre with 55,000 miles. My cousin said he would still take the Park Avenue even with higher mileage, and after reading this board and taking my husband to check them out, decided on the Park Avenue. I couldn't be happier! This car is a real gem. Besides looking like it just came out of a showroom (it has to have been garaged all this time), it rides like a dream. I have been trying to figure out what people meant by a "floaty" ride though. Anyway, I just wanted to thank everyone for the useful information, especially about the GE tires. Fortunately, this car already has Michelin's and I haven't noticed a problem. Thanks again!
The unfortunate aspect of not driving cars is the areas that need to be worked don't get sufficient exercise. The calipers are one of these areas. Now that you have spent the money, drive it, you'll love it. Other areas may show up, engine seals, transmission seals etc need to be worked in order to stay in shape... good luck.
1995 Park Avenue 3800 no turbo 250K miles. When staring the engine will catch but as soon as the key is released to the run position, the engine quits. Fuel pressure 45 lbs throughout the cycle and a trouble light on the injectors shows they have power at all times. Previous issues indicated that the crank sensor may be going, would that do this?
The caliper problem may have been a fluke. I have a 2001 Ultra with only 21,000 miles,with no problems. I also own a 2000 Park Avenue with 38,000 miles that has given me the same great service.
Anyone know where I can find instructions or something to find out how to pull the radio out of a 98 Park Avenue? My aunt put a tape in the cassette player and it got stuck, so now when you try to play it or eject it all it does is make a clicking sound when it trys to eject it. The dealer wants $500 just to get that tape out which I think is stupid considering you could buy multiple radios for the cost of that.
My 1994 PA with the supercharged 3800 will not start. There is no fuel, no spark yet the engine turns. The fuel pump fuse was blown and when replaced it blewq again. Im thinking maybe the ecu but am not sure. I was just going down my street when all of the sudden it just cut out on me then it wouldn't start at all. Please help.
I've got the opportunity to buy a 96 PA -only issue is that it has 165,000 miles on it. How well do PA's deal with high miles and what do you think a good price would be for this car? -thanks for any help.
Hi all, Here's the problem. My wife will be driving at hwy speed and she'll all of a sudden lose power. I've been doing a little research online and think it might be the crank position sensor. Would I be correct and if I am, where is this part located under the hood? Any info you may have is dearly appreciated.
Hmm, the best place around these parts to ask about pricing it is probably our Real-World Trade-In Values discussion - make careful note of the information you should post that is listed above the post box so the folks there can help you with that part of your question. You might also research it under the Used Cars link at http://www.edmunds.com. You'll find lots of great info there when you follow the "Research Prices and Specs" link at the very top of the page.
Meanwhile, we'll see if anyone here can answer your question about high mileage. Let us know how it goes.
You might also want to cross-post in our Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion in case one of the gearheads hanging out there might know the answer. Hope we can help - let us know what happens!
Comments
Thanks
indtnvu
On another note, what does everyone think about '05 being the last year for the Park Avenue?
What can be done to identify the condition of the supercharger?What kind of mileage would I expect from this vehicle. I did notice the cruise control doesn't work. I also noticed a noise coming from the left front,I think is related to the traction control as when I switched traction control there no noise. I was impressed as to how this vehicle handled in the snow and ice. I many miles would I reasonably expect to get out of this car? Should I expect to get 200K or better?
Can anyone point out any other inherant problems with this vintage?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
As far as the supercharger goes, the one on her SSEi is intermittant meaning sometimes it'll kick in and sometimes it won't, leaving the car to be very anemic in it's acceleration. It also rattles very loudly and sounds like the waterpump is about to go. There is a special GM Supercharger oil that you should buy (I think it's close to 10 bucks for a little bottle of it) that will prevent this and keep the supercharger working properly. The major concerns I would have with this vehicle would of course be the supercharger, and the transmission. Other than that, if everything seems to be working well, I don't see why you couldn't get it up to at least 200k.
What kind of oil would cost $10?Is this just synthetic?
I am a little nervous about the supercharger from what I have seen on previous posts.Do these transmissions have a lot of trouble?
Thanks
From what I've heard, this generation had several transmission issues, but I think most of the failures occured at less than 150k miles. I'd check and see if this car has ever had the tranny replaced. Once you take it to a mechanic, have him check the transmission, and the first thing I'd do if I got it is have the transmission flushed and a conditioner added. Good luck.
rick or rpraborn
In reading the various posts on front end vibration - mine ran great for about 70k then developed a vibration - the cause was belt slippage in a tire. Replaced tires and the problem was fixed - I'm using Michlen Symetrys. My wife had a similar problem on her 97 PA and the fix was the same.
Next don't sell the car, it probably is a nice car and was voted best large sedan recently by consumer reports above even Lincoln Town Car. The resale is horrible on the Park Ave, so you'd loose you butt.
Hoped this helped.
Since this is a front wheel drive car, it's likely that your problem is the constant velocity joint (aka CV joint). These are normally replaced as a pair, ie both the passanger and drivers side at the same time. I've never done the job myself, so that's about as much as I can tell you.
1. The fuel Indicator took around trip and stuck in the other side, not coming back.
2. Whenever I start the engine it doesn't recognize me and says UNRECOGNIZED DRIVER and the Trip odometer reset. All meters trips to the maximum then settles.
3. Sometimes, While driving all the lights in the dashboard glows, headlight stops and then comes back again, all meters trips to maximum, then settles. All these happens momentarily. Engine runs fine.
4. Yesterday gave me a hard time starting the car after I drove some time.
Any idea about these problems? Your suggestion will be much appreciated.
Here's the problem. My wife will be driving at hwy speed and she'll all of a sudden lose power. I've been doing a little research online and think it might be the crank position sensor. Would I be correct and if I am, where is this part located under the hood? Any info you may have is dearly appreciated.
Thanks
Chad
Meanwhile, we'll see if anyone here can answer your question about high mileage. Let us know how it goes.
Chad