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Mazda 626



  • Of course, there are two issues to get around:
    • This thing will be costly at first, so if it gets installed in any Mazda production vehicles at all, it would likely be in the comparatively bucks-up Millenia.
    • There's a CVT under development at ZF Batavia in Ohio, a joint venture between Ford and ZF - and this is the plant where the CD4E is built.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I hope they always keep the manual trannies. Always reliable, more fun, more efficient, quicker, more controllable, and cheaper to boot.

    A good CVT beats an automatic, though.

  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Gee,Juice,evrything thing you said and my desire
    to be different were the reasons we purchased
    our Freeport.....Yyyee Hhha!!!
  • I finally decided on my car purchase after driving the Sonata, thinking about the Leganza and Alero and decided on a 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6. I thought I got a great buy on the car and will pick it up tomorrow. My question is do I have to use premium gas or can I use 89 octane. I know I can't use cheap (87) but I thought 89 is acceptable. Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    We use 87 octane on our '95 V6 engine and it's fine, with no loss of power to boot.

  • It's suspension-related, if I read this correctly; I haven't heard it in mine yet. (My 2000 was made 9/99.)
  • Is there a site where you can actually read the TSB?? I tracked the TSB from, and there it gives you the title and date of TSB only =(

  • Does anyone know what the rebate is on a 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6? Is it $2,000?

  • sxm1sxm1 Posts: 2
    Iam new to this site so I have posted this in couple of topics. I apologize if this is not supposed to be here.
    I am planning to buy a 97 Mazda 626 DX. It is a 4
    cylinder,has about 25K miles and no lemons on this car.Some of these posts here talk about problems with 4 cylinder auto transmissions. I plan to show this car to certified mechanic and if I buy it will probably get a 4 year/48k mile warranty on it. My question is what should I look for in this warranty, showing it to a certified mazda service agent will help or not and what else should I look for on this car. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    4 years from now, or 4 years total? The 2001s are out now, so a 1997 could already be 4 years old (i.e. no warranty).

    Get coverage from this point on and make sure the auto tranny is covered. Then consider flushing the ATF anyway, and an oil cooler if you tow or put a lot of strain on the tranny.

    An ounce of prevention...

  • You can pay the long dollar to Alldata DIY to get the whole ball of wax, as I did for my '93 - they don't have the 2000s up yet, apparently - or you can read a brief description at NHTSA:

    Plug in the form data, and away you go. Incidentally, you must give four-digit model years, or you get nothing for your trouble.
  • Thanks! That's a much better site than the ....

    But my rattling noise seems to be coming from the rear windshield instead of from the suspension .... i guess it's not TSB related.

  • Did you have to pay any dealer fees on top of the 19, 900? that sonds like you did well .. Was it the automatic or the 5 speed ? i have been debating which one to get .. good goin on your purchase...
  • Was this from the engine itself, or the passengers wailing "Are we there yet?" :)

    Then again, we're witnessing a paradigm shift in automotive acceptability; Consumer Reports, proving grounds for the automobile-as-appliance mindset, said even the V6 - the V6! - was too slow. Maybe CU is hiring some hot-blooded Young Turks, or perhaps we're on the verge of an actual horsepower race. Either way, Mazda's going to have to do better than 125 hp in the LX.
  • Is 16 ,400 a fair price for the mazda 626 v6 year 2000? I haggled down to this price and of course add on another 300 for " dealer fee' lol ( it was 400 haggled them down ) but there are no other fees involved .. so that makes about 16700 including dealer fee and hes gonna give me 3 tanks of gas lol .. I think its a good deal what
    does everyone else think? its a nice car .

    P.S is it normal to pay a small dealer fee? I have read that most places charge it but should i refuse to pay it? there are no other add ons other then the 300 bucks
  • Thanks for all the responses everyone! I ended up not getting the 93' 626, since it turns out the water pump had been replaced recently too, which got me a bit worried about how the car had been treated. However, it sounds like a 626 is definitely a viable option for us tall folks!

  • Or the previous owner may have said to himself as the timing belt was being changed, "You know, it would cost next to nothing to put a new water pump in this car right now, since it requires hardly any additional labor."

    Okay, I'm speculating, but it could happen. It's the advice I always give, anyway.

    (Maybe this belongs in M&R, but then, as we all know, M&R is presenting some major difficulties for some of us.)
  • After rebate, I paid about $15,300 for a four-cylinder '00 626, so $1100 extra for the V6 doesn't sound too bad to me.

    I paid a "closing fee" of forty-nine bucks, which is probably as low as these things are likely to go; I suppose I could have tried to talk them out of it, but this would have contravened the spirit of "no-haggle". :)
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    My next research area,here in westcentral IL,will be
    the mpgs while the defroster/compressor is running.
    So why is it that these two units operate at the
    same time?This will be the first full blown winter
    for us and the Freeport Rocket.At 10.6K we could'nt
    be more happy.Someday I'll be posting with XXXK
    worth of mileage and hope I'm still a very happy
    motorist! Thumbs Up Bryan
  • Actually, it's to your advantage; what causes frost is water vapor in the air, and air conditioning removes water vapor from the air. The defroster, therefore, will be more efficient at clearing the glass with the A/C running.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    I'm trying to find any aftermarket center console that will fit in my 94 626. Not a bit of progress so far. Any advice ?
    (I'm just sick of the cupholders - they are a joke in my opinion and I wold love some armrest as well)
  • And if you have the same cupholders that I had in the '93, covering them up with plastic would be doing them a kindness. (The 2000 is much better, but I cannot in good conscience recommend that someone trade just to get better cupholders.)
  • The Lone Prairie got a whole passel of sleet and stuff this week, so I got to test my '00 626 LX under conditions that wouldn't impress anyone from Minnesota but which are quite horrid nonetheless, and so far, she's passing with flying colors. Of course, this could be helped by her, um, modest acceleration curve, which makes it harder to get into serious trouble. Still, apart from that first pre-dawn outing on fresh snow, in which I got to plow a few ess-curves, she hasn't slipped once, so let's hear it for the girl, and for her Bridgestone Turanzas, which did better than I expected under the circumstances.

    (Side note: I subjected this thing to the resident spell-checker, and got results that can only be described as risible. "LX", it insisted, ought to be "DX", and you don't want to know what it did with "ess-curve".)
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Oops hit the enter instead of tab. The stuff Charles was playing in,
    landed here as awhite blanket.I too am pleased with the Bridgestones
    but still need some more practice with the power curve...YeeeHaaa!I
    have yet to venture out into the aftermath of street clearing which
    includes(a substance I think was the idea of bodyshops)rocksalt.I saw
    the undercoating the boys in FlatRock MI applied but I'm still a little
    concerned. wjm1: we built up and covered the head rest restraint and arm rest 3" and its sweet. Charles: You did'nt waste time trying to
    explain they don't do the DX no didn't think so.
  • We don't need no stinkin' DX. :)

    Actually, for the amount of showroom traffic they were likely to deliver, which is Not Much, it was just as well that Mazda dropped them. Most people were buying at least LX trim anyway.

    (Side note: The dealer selling my old 626 has it listed as a DX on the dealership sites and as an LX on It's an LX.)
  • Hi,

    I recently bought a 1999 Mazda 626 from the Hertz car sales. It is in great condition but I have a small problem. The Hertz guys buy directly from the factory and they have never programmed the keyless entry modules that come with the car. They have given me 2 brand new keyless entry modules and a flow-chart with instructions on how to program the keyless entry modules but no matter how many times I try to read and try, it does'nt seem to work. Has someone else gone thru the same experience, if yes or if you know anything about programming the keyless entry modules for the 1999 Mazda 626 LX, I am interested in hearing it.

    Thanks in advance
  • I've never seen a procedure for that anywhere. Assuming the system is functional, it might be easier to pay a Mazda dealer the forty bucks or so and be done with it.

    If they gave you a handout on how to do this, I'd really like to see it.
  • Yeah, the Hertz folks gave me a nice flowchart which has a relatively precise set of instructions and I just followed them verbatim (I think ) and it would not work. It is an interesting procedure and I just wanted to try it out. Well, I'll just take it to the dealer and have them fix it. I have a hard copy of the flow-chart, if you have a fax, i could send it over.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    We're making history here(most snow in Dec)by
    thrashing the 1887 record by a coupla inches.
    I'm getting better with the power curve and
    luvin' every minute!I had a set of stainless
    steel mud flaps made,attached with ss hardware
    and they looked sweet.I'm bummed now after
    noticing rust stains on the flaps.What could
    it be?? Body clips are made of steel!!!
    Back to the drawing board.
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