Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626



  • I own a Honda CR-V so I spend most of my time there but need your help on a 626 that my father is buying. It is a 1999 Mazda 626 ES 4-cyl with a moonroof and leather it has the cd/cassette and all the other es goodies such as the PW/locks/Cruse Tilt. The car has 41K on it and it is in Great Shape. I saw this vehicle. This was a early lease turn in and was well taken care of He has put down a deposit and will probally pic it up Monday.
    The price is $13,400 and they are also giving him a good value for the trade. What do you all think of this vehicle. THe color is driftwood/tan leather which is spotless

  • Of course, my "What would have led someone to terminate a lease early?" buzzer goes off, even knowing there's 41k on the car.

    Would someone please pull the dipstick on the automatic transmission (you can't get ES trim with a four-cylinder and the stick) and see what the fluid looks like?
  • dekicadekica Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where can I find a Torque and HP curve graph for mazdas 2.5L V6 engine? Thanks
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our mechanic has been changing the oil at 3000mls
    and making visual inspections on the Freeport.If
    we take this to the Mazda dealer(40mls away)will
    they make any internal diagnostic tests that our
    trusted tech is not set up for or will those come
    later with more mileage?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Much later. The first significant service is at 30k miles, and even that is minor compared to the 60k mile service (the first major one).

    Keep receipts.

  • A local dealer will sell me his 2001 626 demo vehicle with 4,000+ miles for $100.00 over invoice. I haven't purchased a "new" car in many, many years, but this doesn't seem correct given the amount of use/depreciation on this vehicle.

    I'm sure if I bought a 2001 vehicle and ran up 4,000 miles and tried to turn it back in that they wouldn't give me invoice plus $100.00. HElP!! What would be a fair, reasonable discount for the amount of miles this dealer demo has??
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    There is currently a $1500 rebate on 626 for 2001 model.

    For a "new" (5-250 miles) 626 I would start by offering 1225 under invoice. With the 4000 miles the demo has I would remove at least $1,000 additional dollars so take $2250 off of the invoice.

    $100 OVER the invoice for a 4,000 mile car is a terrible deal for you.

    Remember that the 4,000 miles that are on the car are the most valuable miles that the car can be driven, they are the new car miles that people pay a premium for.

    Just FYI, 2000 626's for sale with 12K or less miles were selling for 12,500 to 16,000 and average of 14,500 in my area.

    Check out the pricing service on edmunds and take a look at for some relevant information on what you should pay for new 626.
  • How much will they charge you for a non demo? It depends on the market. If area dealers are selling "new" ones for $1000.00 over invoice and the demo is 100.00 over, then you are getting a good deal. If they will sell a "new" one for the same 100.00, then it is not a good deal. You need to be able to compare it to something in YOUR market area.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    A good deal on 626 will be less than invoice anywhere in the US market.
    Use the internet and do some research on cost of 626. Check out the smart shopper forum on edmunds.

    Question for john1726: Are you in the car sales business? I used to be and IMHO only someone who who is would say that a $900 difference on a 4000 mile demo would be a good deal in any market.

    bythenbrs1 Be aware that if you are shopping against say a Accord or Camry that the 626 should be discounted much more than it's competitors.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Buy new - that demo is not being discounted at all!

  • Yes, I am in car sales. I was just trying to make a point. Remenber, a good deal is a deal that both you and the dealer think is fair. If you or the dealer do not agree, then it is no deal at all. I was using 900.00 as an example.
  • I was surprised when I saw the Mazda spec for 2001 V6 engine that says 165 peak hp .... as I remember one of the improvement they advertised in the 00 model was a slight power boost from 165 in 99 model to 170 in 00 ... and I don't think they usually cut back on Hp ...

    Anyone knows the answer? Not like 5 hp makes a diff but just curios to know why ...

  • This is due to minor changes in calibration to meet 50-state emissions requirements, rather than having separate versions for California and the Northeast.

    Since its introduction in '93, the 2.5 has gone from 164 to 170 to 165; the 2.0, from 118 to 114 to 125 to 130 and back to 125 for 2001.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Is that for OBDII? How confusing!

  • Hello,

    I would like to exchange the factory CD player on my Mazda 626 2000 but don't know how to take the player out.. Can anybody help me with this?
    Another question.
    On that factory CD player there is a button #1 (where you see "Disk" written).
    It is used to connect CD changer. Can I instead of CD changer connect a wire with Audio input so that I will be able to plug in tape/MP3 player?

  • The head unit does have a line input; I have a cassette player connected to mine.
  • That's at least one issue. The automatics were switched to OBD II in '94, the sticks in '96, if I remember correctly.
  • Can I ask you some questions about the procedure of installation sending them to your email?

  • Basically, I need some advice on how to remove CD player ...
  • I had this thing installed when I took delivery on the car; I didn't do it myself.
  • OK.. Thanks anyway.
  • Thinking about buying a '98 626 LX with 33 thousand miles for 11 thousand. I want a reliable car. Is this the best bet or do you have other ideas for a used car around that same price?
  • Not necessarily. The '98s were screwed together pretty well, but it was the first year of a new (well, not all that new) design, so if you make it a point to avoid software in version 1.0, you might be happier with something else.

    I would also point out that the new coast/forward clutch assembly on the CD4E tranny (used in the four-cylinder 626 this year) wasn't phased in at Batavia until January, so early '98s will not benefit from this upgrade.

    Apart from these two considerations, they're pretty worthy cars.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If it's a 5 speed, you're probably safe. There wasn't that much that changed for '98.

    Though that was the year they de-contented. For 2000 they added everything back. You may want to get a '97 or 2000.

  • Yes, the 98 I am looking at is an automatic. I've heard there can be some major problems with the transmitions. Also Consumer Reports recommends both the 97 and 99 as decent cars for the price...but not the 98. Any idea why?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Probably normal sample variation. They do change suppliers along the way, so this could also be the case.

  • There is a statistical cutoff point for CU's "better than average" criterion; the '98 may have just missed it, and staring at their most recent dot chart suggests to me that this is exactly what happened.
  • Hi- this will be my first new car purchase ever (12 years of great used cars) so feedback on this deal would be appreciated. We can get Splan pricing which is about 1.5% below invoice plus $500 rebate and 0% financing. I definitely want ABS, automatic and Fog lamps which puts us at about 19,200 on the plan/rebate with no haggling required. The rub is that the dealer says it is more difficult to locate LX V6 without the Premium pakage (moonroof, alloy wheels, antitheft etc). This stuff is nice but not neccessary for me and the extra 1400 puts this over my price point. No dealer in my area has one without the premium pakage and my 1990 Honda won't start if it is raining so.... Do I have room to bargain on the Premium pakage or is this deal already rock bottom? Any advice is appreciated!
  • I would like to get an impression from owners on long term reliability and cost of operation of the 626 LX V6. I hate to car shop so I plan on keeping this car as long as possible (ran both previous cars, a grand Am and 1990 Honda Accord, to 187K miles). Can I expect this kind of long term result from the 626?
    Also, the only draw backs I see for the 626 vs the Accord are
    1)depreciation- not a problem for me for resale since I keep cars way long term but maybe an issue if I were to have an accident while I am paying on the car
    2) gas milage...
    I am uncertain about maintainance costs/comparison. Any advice appreciated!
  • There are a few minor things which expire early on the V6 - valve cover gaskets and oxygen sensors will seldom last beyond 100k - but the engine itself is solidly built and very understressed. Keep the coolant flushed and the oil out of the plug-wire wells and it should last you for years and years.

    Going rate in my neck of the woods for the 30k service is around $350; for 60k (which involves changing a timing belt), about $550. In between, you shouldn't need much beyond oil changes (I always suggest 3-4k) and transmission service (20 to 30k).

    Gas mileage is highly variable, but my 626 experience suggests that the EPA numbers are reasonable. The V6 expects premium unleaded, which will add to your costs somewhat.
Sign In or Register to comment.