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Mazda 626



  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It is most likely not a transmission issue. (The engine and tranny share the computer, but if there's something tranny-related, the HOLD light usually comes on.)

    The '93s, not being OBD II-compliant, aren't that sensitive to gas-cap anomalies. If it's running normally otherwise, I tend to suspect an oxygen sensor on its last legs.
  • neon96neon96 Posts: 1
    My son and daughter just purchased (less then two months old) a used 1994 Mazda 626 with about 70,000 miles on it. Two hours after they drove the car out of the lot the Hold light came on and started "blinking". We took it back to the used car dealer, and they couldn't figure out what is wrong with it. After repeated returns they said they don't have the diagnostic tool for it. We purchased a repair manual on it and it didn't say what the "blinking" Hold light meant. The only thing we found out was that Mazda is owned partially by Ford, and the Haynes repair manual for the Mazda 626 had a Ford Probe on the cover. The actual owners manual says to not drive it or damage will result to the transmission. Boy am I hoping for some good news about this problem. Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Usually a solid light is just a warning, and blinking light is more serious. You should not drive it until it's fixed.

    Obviously, the dealer should take care of it. In many states there is a 30 day warranty, at a minimum.

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The solid hold light is similar to the O/D off light in many cars. It just means that it will hold it out of O/D which is not a warning but rather an indicator of the transmission mode. Agreed, the blinking light is a problem.

    FYI neon96, the Probe and 626 were built on the same assembly line at a Mazda/Ford plant in Michigan. The nice thing is that they are mostly Mazda components with the exception of the lovely CD4E slush box.

    Haynes manuals: Not worth their weight in dirt. The factory manual is a much better education and runs from $50-100 at you friendly local dealer.

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    With '94s generally, you should check to see if the speedometer gear has been replaced per Mazda's "Special Service Program". If the speedo is erratic, this is almost certainly the issue.

    The lovely CD4E slushbox was cranky in this year. How was it driving beforehand?
  • pnutboypnutboy Posts: 2
    hello windowphobe6, I am seriously looking at buying a '96 es V6 AUTO TARNS. It has 67k miles. I read much of the posts and saw that
    this car is 4th generations.
    Can I add or tell me the maintenance(of what to expect)

    change timing belt
    valve cover gasket
    water pump?
    plugs & wires
    o2 sen?

    Is there anything I'm missing? The previous owner still has a warranty left until November. The car is in excellent condition. Please tell me what to expect to put into it at this miles and what I may be missing?

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The timing belt, says Mazda, ought to be changed every 60k miles. Water pumps usually last longer than that, but if you run into trouble with yours before 120k, change it and the timing belt at the same time - it saves a lot of duplication of labor.

    Valve-cover gaskets can be left alone unless there's actual leakage - check the spark-plug wells for oil. These are relatively easy to fix, the front bank more so than the rear. And if you do find oil in the plug wells, go ahead and replace the wires.

    Oxygen sensors seldom seem to last beyond about 80k on these cars - and you have two of them working under different conditions, so they won't likely fail simultaneously.

    Keep an eye on your CV boots; they tend to crack after seven or eight years, which allows the joints to deteriorate. Rebuilt axles are fairly inexpensive, but a pain in the neck to install.

    And get the transmission serviced. Mazda has never specified an interval for tranny service for these cars, which, in my view, has contributed substantially to its not-entirely-Ford-induced reputation for dubious transmissions. I wouldn't let any Mazda tranny go 30k miles without a fluid replacement.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
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  • pnutboypnutboy Posts: 2
    Thanks a whole lot windowphobe6. I will go with you Suggestions list. I fell better knowing what to expect.
  • freds5freds5 Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 626 lx with aboout 63k miles on it. The check engine light came on Friday night. Took to a local sevice center to see what the problem is (the dealer's not open over the weekend). They said the O2 censor is not picking up the oxygen as it is leaving the engine and the fuel/air mixture would be affected. They cleared the codes, so the check engine light would not come on. The part according to them will cost $200-$300 to replace (they did not have the part in stock and said it is dealer only part). They also said a fuel injection treatment may coax the O2 censor to pick up the O2 output correctly. Is this a problem that would be reacurring or is this only one time problem? Does the cost of the part sound reasonable/as well as the fuel injection cleaning? Also, will the dealer be able to fix the problem, since the service center cleared the check engine codes?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I have my doubts that a fuel-injection treatment would have much of an effect on oxygen sensors; if the injection system truly needed treatment, you'd be noticing all manner of driveability issues.

    And if the sensor is truly bad, the light will come back on soon enough, and you'll get to pay $200 or so to have it replaced. 60-80k is typical life for these critters.
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    I have replaced the two O2 sensors on my 93 Mazda 626 at 70,000 miles with Bosch units. The OEM price was over $200 each but I paid $60 each for the Bosch units at (with coupon). The Bosch units looked like a better quality part and have performed flawlessly. Also got rid of the intermittent engine light coming on.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    I recently bought a PRO and while in the process of purchasing one recommended it to a an office worker who was looking for a car for her son. They ended up buying an Echo because 'they always bought from this Toyota dealer and they had never heard of the Protege!!'. Now the Echo was ranked 10th in a 13 car comparison by C&D in which the PRO was #1. They even called it a Toyota first (a mistake). This is my first Mazda and I bought it after doing a lot of reading. If it proves reliable, I will know it was the right choice. I don't think the general public is willing to start with a fresh slate and do the research. They go by 'perception' and general consensus. Toyota and Honda earned their spurs long ago and will continue to get business from the ones unwilling to think out of the box. Your are right about the idiot salesmen too who don't know their cars. I've seen the training certificates on the walls yet they can't tell you what car has the 16" wheels. But I would disagree that Mazda has more than their fair share of the undeducated salesmen. (Isn't it horrifying that these guys get some of our hard earned money?)
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It is said that most people pick a class and then make a list of maybe three cars out of that class from which to select. Getting Mazda into that first three will not be an easy task. At least their current advertising is a lot less inept than what we're used to from Mazda. (The new 626 spot - "Daddy, what's it like to drive?" - is downright wonderful, I think, and however much people may claim to hate the Zoom Zoom kid, by gum, he has brand identification.)

    The problem in my part of the world is that the Mazda stores are all dualed with Ford, and there's always the question of whether Ford guys instinctively will push you to the Escape instead of the Tribute, to the Focus instead of the Protegé. I bought my current 626 from a Ford truck guy, but he'd done his homework on the Mazdas, and while his expertise didn't exceed mine (geez, that sounds pretentious, even for me), he was able to field questions and get answers where needed, and we quickly got to a workable deal. (And yes, I test-drove a Focus. I liked it.)
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If anything that fuel system treatment can damage your O2 sensor. Check the bottle for details.

  • dayokayodedayokayode Posts: 31
    Someone deliberately and maliciously keyed' my 00626 while it was parked in a public lot yesterday afternoon. How come people are so mean and depraved?

    The scratch is pretty long, noticeable and deep; as a perfectionist, it's been driving me nuts ever since. How can I remove it? I tried using a 3M scratch remover to no avail. I know that if I take it to the body shop, they'll charge me a lot to repair the finish.

    Thanks for your anticipated assistance
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    I, too, have had the evil 3-foot long key mark applied so generously to my car in a parking lot. I have no idea what possesses people to do such a thing!

    Mine is pretty deep and goes down to the primer. There is not way to fix it other than having the entire panel(s) repainted. It is expensive and it sucks! I haven't done mine yet, but I will definitely have it done soon!
  • dayokayodedayokayode Posts: 31
    I guess commiserating with other 'victims' helps a little. Although I know it's just a car and that nicks and scratches come with the territory, I was a little distraught that somebody will methodically deface another person's property.

    But then, I've been called 'naive' because I just don't get why some sadists derive pleasure from 'hurting' other people.

    C'est la vie, I guess.
  • caelcael Posts: 8
    Hi, I've got a 95 626 lx and it has the noisy lifters problem. I've already had 6 lifters replaced and it still is making the ticking sound after it warms up. Once these cars start ticking can they be stopped? What do I need to do to get this thing to stop ticking? Thanks
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Well you have 18 more to replace...

    I've heard that synthetic oil keeps those little things clean or you may just try thinner oil like 5w-20.

  • cprenticecprentice Posts: 4
    I have been looking for a car 9 months and finally ready to settle on a 2001 Mazda 626 LX. It seems to be a great car and I got the dealer down to $13,990 plus freight. Is this a good price and what do you all think of the 2001. The only other Mazda I have owned was a 1974 Mazda RX-4 (and it was a great little car). I would appreciate any thoughts..BTW the Mazda is a 5 spee., based on alot of the posts I have seen I am staying away from the automatic. Thanks

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The '01s are mostly identical to the '00s - oh, yeah, EZ-Cool glass is standard now - so you should be at least as thrilled with the '01 as I am with the '00, not to mention about two seconds faster from zero to sixty. :)

    Including incentives and freight, I paid about $15,300 for an LX automatic last year. Figuring $480 for freight and $800 for the automatic, you did at least as well as I did.
  • cprenticecprentice Posts: 4
    It is a new 4cyl 5 speed (80 miles). I love the ride and the handling...seems a tad under powered but perfect otherwise....thanks

  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    For the money spent....I'm having a Blast with
    our Doubleought Freeport. With fuel approaching
    $2 a gallon our 4cyl was a very wise move.With
    15500mls our last tank was 29mpg,mixed urban+
    city. We're looking forward to the 6digit mileage
    club some day! ThumbsUp
  • johnny01johnny01 Posts: 8
    Own a 97626LX4cyl-auto. As a precautionary measure, had an aux xmissn oil cooler with an in-line filter installed last yr. No problems so far at 59k. My biggest complaint is that the roof line is too low. Hard to get in and out. What else? The trunk, although decent size, has a small opening which I hate.
    Some people feel the 4 cyl is underpowered. I say you can counter act for that by driving aggressively. Aggressive, albeit safe driving can make up for lack of horsepwr. Where I live (WA), most people are conservative drivers. Maybe if I lived in SoCal I would need about 20 more HP. That's all I got to say.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Yeah, it scrapes at my bald spot too. I'll live.

    People drive insanely here in Oklahoma, but I get by. In fact, I usually get past. :)
  • johnlwjohnlw Posts: 28
    I am taking the wife's '98 4cyl. auto in for its' 30,000 mile service, and the dealer says it is $495! That is a lot of $$$$$.

    Does this sound right? Have any of you gotten better pricing? Thanks.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Be careful! 30k services vary from shop to shop. The only way to compare is to get a list of what your dealer is going to do for $500. I can bet any amount that they do more than is reccomended in your owner's manual.

  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    Yeah... I talked to my trusty service advisor about the 30k mile service. He didn't recommend it since it does things like transmission fluid changes, radiator flushes, engine diagnostic, ignition wire change, air filter, spark plugs, brake/clutch fluid changes, etc. Except for the air filter and spark plugs, all those services are too early for a 30k mile vehicle. He said 60k would probably be better, but even that's soon for some of the services. However, these services certainly cannot hurt. I just went ahead and spent $10 on a new air filter and spark plugs and put them in myself, saving me $490!!
  • johnlwjohnlw Posts: 28
    Since it is still under warranty for a couple of months, and since I already had a new (rebuilt) transmission put in under warranty, and since my wife found a 15% coupon ($75) I am going to do it this time.

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