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Mazda 626



  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17

    I just read this on the Mazda web site:

    "Autolamp On/Off Delay System (available on the 626 only)

    The system can be programmed to shut off the headlights up to four minutes after the ignition is turned off, providing an illuminated walkway after you park the vehicle."

    Does anyone know how to "program" the time?

  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    I have a 2001 lx, the lights are not programable on mine, they shut off after 5 seconds though.

    Regarding the rear spoiler, passed on it, I think the dealer said it was 500, waste of money in my opinion, got those alloys though, real nice.
  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    In regards to your post (#571), the answer is: NO...
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    My 2001 LX lights stay on for about 45 to 50 seconds after "key off". After I read the Mazda web page and now after reading bj02176's post about his staying on for only 5 seconds I am wondering if maybe there is some way to "program" them.

  • freds5freds5 Posts: 5
    I have a 98 Mazda 626 with 60k miles, do the timing belts have to be changed at 60k miles? My previous experience has been with mid-80's Accords which only needed the timing belts replaced every 80k miles or so.
  • Mazda's recommendation is 60k miles, unless you live in California, in which case it magically increases to 105k. As a practical matter, they don't automatically give way when the odo hits 60,003. :)
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    I don't want to post wrong, info I think I read in the manual that they go off after 5 seconds, never really timed it. Seems less then 30 seconds though. this is not something I dwell on. I'm more interested in using 87 or 89 octane gas, running 89 now, seems to be okay. I think the compression ratio is lower then in the 2000 model, this may explain it.
  • I'm looking for a reliable used car, I've been looking at Camrys and Accords. I looked at a Mazda for the first time today and was impressed. Not knowing anything about Mazda, I'm trying to do some research... any suggestions on sites. I found a '98 626 AS with leather, moon roof, bose sound system, etc. they are asking 13,9 is this reasonable? And are there any major problems with this model?
  • Is this a good price? See Edmund's front page and follow the signs to True Market Value. (For the ES-V6, thirteen nine doesn't sound too far out of line, but then I haven't seen the car.)

    The '98 is the first year of the 5th-generation 626. For this version, the suspension was softened a bit, the engine electricals and valvetrain were reworked (no more distributor or hydraulic lifters), and a couple of interior features were dropped in the hopes that no one would notice. Mostly, they're pretty reliable; by general agreement, the weakest link in the 626 powertrain is the LA4A-EL (Ford CD4E) automatic, which was not used in the V6 cars in '98.

    Mazda hasn't had the best of luck with rubber parts (though I've never had a coolant hose go), so check the weatherstripping and the CV boots.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Here is a link to the feature windowphobe6 mentions: True Market Value.

    Let us know what you find out. I'm sure if you have other questions, the good folks hanging out in this discussion will be happy to help you out.

    Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
  • I am new at this site and could not wait to use it after reading many posts for about a year. I was looking to buy a 626. Because of the information I have seen provided by windowphobe, I was able to research and have purchased a vehicle I love. Don't worry windowphobe, if this vehicle goes south as I see some of the postings have indicated I won't be looking to you for legal action! I just wanted you to know I have been reading your comments - you are an extremely knowledgeable person. It is a pleasure to read your comments and advice! Now, to the point. I have a 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6, purchased June 2000. In August of 2000, even before I made my second payment, a neighborhood child placed a 1 1/2 to 2 inch scratch and dent on the rear quarter panel where the panel curves. The dent is at the very end of the scratch. The entire scratch does not look to be through the clear coat(but close)except at the very end where it went into the paint but not the metal. I let it go through the winter, applying lots of wax. The dealer is saying it should probably be painted and the insurance came in at $350 for the paint job. I do not want to have the entire qtr. panel repainted as the vehicle is not yet a year old. This mishap kind of made me sick because it is the first very nice car I have owned. Please advise.
  • On the off-chance that there is some hidden damage to the metal, just so Mazda doesn't have an excuse for denying a claim under the rust-perforation warranty somewhere down the line. The 626 isn't a noted ruster or anything, but rust, like my upstairs neighbor, never sleeps.

    Of course, you won't really feel good about this until you spritz the offending urchin with a faceful of Krylon.
  • Much as it pains me to say so, this isn't exactly an original idea - but that's an issue for some other thread.
  • The Edmonds TMV is right on what they are asking. The salesman said I could get in it for about 12,5 so I plan to take a closer look. From the posts and reviews I've read, this sounds like an excellent car and... I really like the bose sound system. Thanks again.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    It's a sad state of affairs when people feel that if your advice/suggestions doesn't
    remedy their particular maladjustment that they make you accountable in a
    court of law ! ? !
  • In this case, though, the problem was one of presentation - the information I was providing didn't look sufficiently amateurish enough to be unofficial, and my borrowing of a 626 emblem for a Web site graphic was the straw that broke the intellectual-property lawyer's back. It is instructive that the powers that be disputed absolutely none of the information in question; they just didn't want it to look like it was coming from someone who was in a position to know anything. I did a perfunctory redesign, added a few more lines about lack of official status, and pulled the offending graphic, and nothing more was said.

    Still, you can sue anyone (except the government) for anything (except government activities), so I figure it's just a matter of time before someone decides that I didn't try hard enough to talk him out of a '94 with a blown tranny-pump gasket.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    It sounds like they were, at least, fair with you. I don't doubt that some individual who believes that the perfect car exists will, someday, hold you liable for their lack of good judgment. As people lose the ability to think on their own(read: too much TV), lawsuits will abound.

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Of course, apart from my 401(k), which is inviolable (yeah, right), my single most valuable asset is, well, a 626. I doubt any aggrieved owner would want that as compensation - especially when he hears it has a CD4E. :)

    Besides, anyone who believes the perfect car exists is already complaining about it on some Honda or Toyota forum somewhere, probably because he had always felt assured that the essence of car perfection means never having to take part in such mundane pursuits as, oh, pulling out a dipstick once in a while.
  • skorolskorol Posts: 11
    Could anyone tell me what rebates are currently available for the remaining 2000 626s? How much cheaper are they if I find one as opposed to 2001 626s similarly equipped? Thank you very much in advance.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I snagged a Double-Ought last October, while the '01s were coming off the truck, and Mazda was happy to kick in $2000 to get rid of this white (er, Mojave Beige) elephant that had sat unsold at two dealerships for over a year. :)

    Prices rose only a tad on the '01s. My LX stickered at $19,825 including destination charge; outfit a 2001 LX with the same minimal gear and you'll hit $20,245. And of that $420 rise, $30 is an increase in freight.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Also windowphobe, don't forget we got a coupla
    more horses under our hood!?! Is there other mod
    differences between the year models?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Well, that HP thing is an emissions issue, and anyway this brace of engines (in these displacement and in this application, anyway) is going away after 2002.

    The only real difference I could find in equipment levels, after reading a 2000 brochure and the Mazda USA Web site, was that EZ-Cool glass, formerly an ES perk, is now standard. The Roadside Assistance Program now may include a loaner - it didn't for 2000.

    And if you believe the aforementioned Web site, the GF4A-EL transmission, at least in 626-land, is history. I have yet to sample an '01 to see for myself.
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    Hey windowphobe6,

    Did I mis-read your last post? Did you say the "the GF4A-EL transmission, at least in 626-land, is history"? I have a 2001 LX 4 cylinder. I was crawling around under it the other day (It's three months old) and saw a "Ford" stamp on one of the disk shaped "plugs" on the transmission. My tranny seems to shift VERY smoothly, much to my surprise. Could I be so lucky as to not have the cursed Ford tranny?

    Also you, or anyone else for that matter, wouldn't happen to know of the procedure for removing the 2001 double DIN Mazda CD receiver would you? I want to pull it and put a respectable CD player in.

    I have had the car for three months now and it seems okay. There have been some "minor" problems with it and the usual dealer B.S. You know "they all do that"!!!!

    If you remember a few posts back I mentioned that I sometimes had a "oil smell" problem. I asked the dealer about it and they replaced:
    1) Pipe, Oil
    2) Radiator - I guess the transmission radiator?
    3) A/T fluid
    4) coolant (Orange)

    I am not sure but it seems to have helped.

    The front windows still "creak" when they are part way down and I hit any kind of bump but The dealer tells me "they all do that". Maybe I am too picky but I only buy a new car every 8 to 10 years so I hate to have problem with it so early.

    Any way, any comments would be very welcome.


  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    You're not that lucky. Then again, the CD4E isn't the time bomb it used to be, either, and by most accounts, its shift action has always been a bit smoother than you could get from Mazda's G or GF - at least, so long as it was holding together. Myself, I don't have any issues with any post-'98 CD4E; I think they've finally gotten this little slushbox out of Tranny Hell and into the low end of the respectability spectrum. It still ain't a Turbo Hydra-Matic, but Ford hasn't bought any transmissions from GM for, oh, 50 years or so. :)

    What it looks like to me is that the V6 cars are getting the Ford box for '01 - but again, I haven't confirmed this personally.

    In seven months, I have noted the following:
    • Slight departure from flatness in headliner
    • Really long time for heater to kick in when it's really cold ("they all do that")
    • Low-fuel light even more paranoid than before
    This summer I'll be burning up around 200 gallons of $2.99 gas in twenty days or less. Ought to be fun.
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    I have a 2001 lx v6, my drivers side front window also creaks, lubricant helps for a while.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    That Mazda hasn't changed the current 626 4-cyl automatic and put in the auto tranny out of the current Protege 2.0L (or the '99 and '00 ES 1.8L). It shifts much smoother and doesn't seem to be plagued by any failure problems to the scale of Ford's evil CD4E. But, I guess, with the demise of the current 626 in the next couple of years, it wouldn't make much financial sense to do so!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The recent years of the CD4E in the 626 have not been plagued with problems. It seems like it's just the 2nd cycle 626(93-97). The CD4E in the Ford vehicles haven't been unusually problematic so it may have had something to do with the power train programming. This makes sense and if you have driven a <97 and a >98 you can definitely feel the difference.

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    ...the actual running changes made to the CD4E design in response to mechanical failures.

    I still don't think this is the most bulletproof tranny on the road, but I'm not sweating much over the thought of putting 4500 miles on one in three weeks this summer either.

    One of the things I bought recently was a proper Mazda shop manual for the GF4A-EL. (I know, I don't have one anymore, but what the heck.) My god, but this thing is complicated.

    And far be it from me to mention the design bits shared by both Mazda's FN4A-EL (in the Protegé) and Ford's 4F27E (in the Focus).
  • ahastingsahastings Posts: 6
    I am very interested in buying a 2000 626, but I have read almost everything I can on the car and it seems the 4 cylinder is a bad, or, 'not-as-good-choice'. The problem is I can't seem to locate many 2000 626's with a V6 for sale. Is this a hard car to find? I've found about 10 2000 models in the Tulsa, OK area but all of them have a 4 cylinder. Would it be a bad decision to go forward with a 4 cylinder model?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I have owned both and I pick the v-6 hands down. However, my '98 4cyl felt like a bucket of jello and they made changes to the suspension in 2000, but the 4cyl is still a bit anemic. Windowphobe will disagree, but I'd hold out for the v-6. The reason you may not see many is that it's a car that you'd want to keep.

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