Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I use 87 octane now and I swear it runs much better than it did before the service even with 93 octane.
-juice
And it supposedly has a security system but it never comes on, probably cause the doors never lock! What's wrong?
-juice
The first thing I'll do is have tranny flushed, do you guys recommend mobil 1 fluid as some have suggested? It's got moonroof and factory alloys,cd player,etc.looks awesome from 50ft away. Any other suggestions is appreciated. thanks.
soopercoop(626 in MI)
Ford used to pass this off as service advice:
"Under normal vehicle operating conditions, transmission service (transmission model CD4E) is not required unless 5,000 mile fluid inspections reveal either contamination or discoloration of fluid, or transmission exhibits functional concerns."
I tend to distrust the very concept of "normal vehicle operating conditions", but for now, I'm just watching the fluid and taking notes.
Took it to my Mazda specialist. He immediately completely drained out all of the fluid, and added Lubegard. As a preventative, he recommends a simple drain and refill with Lubegard every 15,000 miles. He won national Mazda competitions just 3 years ago.
No problem at all since.
This was money well spent.
-juice
That's a good price for a car with so few miles. The original owner paid for more than 1/3rd of the total cost of depreciation and got only 16k miles out of it.
-juice
Current car: bought new - I know the history -always garaged and maintained. Mazda extended warranty to 100k (bumper to bumper with $50 deductible - just in case the tranny goes). Car has been extremely reliable. Hoping I could retail for $9500 - has sunroof/cd/cassette/sedona red/transferrable warranty to 100k.
Proposed car: v6 with premium pkg incl anti lock brakes and traction control. Don't know history - car looks clean - at reputable Ford/Chrysler dealer. Color is "Chestnut" with tan leather. (any opinions on this color would also be appreciated) Dealer is asking $14,100. I would offer $13,100. Remainder of the 50k mile warranty.
ANY feedback would be appreciated.
-juice
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
-juice
What are the limitations. It rarely shows anything that doesn't show up on the State Vehicle Title reports. This can vary widely depending on the amount of information required to be entered on the title. I't not prefect, but in my view, worth the money.
It was unveiled at the Detroit Auto Show this week.
The thing was perfecty reliable for about 5 years, but the last 2 years have brought on $2 grand worth of repairs, and 3 visits to the dealer. Not too happy about that.
It only has 70k miles too, on a '95 V6/5 speed.
Oh well, a good car otherwise, but I hope the streak of bad luck has ended.
-juice
I count about $175 in parts and 2.1hrs of labor. So at $819 that works out to roughly $300/hr for the labor.
Please restore my dealer confidence and say there is more to it.
I will have to check the invoice, but I think that was it. These are the same guys that charged $220 for an O2 sensor, parts only. On-line I found it at Trussville Mazda for $160, and aftermarket it was $70 at Trak Auto.
Never again will I go to that dealer.
-juice
It lasted for 70k miles, not horrible but less than expected.
-juice
How much was that wheelhub?
-juice
1. CV Axle replacement.
2. Alignment
3. 120K Maintenence checkup
4. Replacement of spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, crankshaft seal, cam seal, and antifreeze.
I thought the cost was high, but maybe it wasn't so bad.
I got this mechanic by asking my local dealership if they knew of a mechanic who used to work for them who set up an independent shop. Their referral was excellent.
-juice
Is this likely something simple to fix or expensive to fix?
The corrosion is probably due to the fact that the car was hit on the driver side and the body shop probably did not do a good job when reinstalling the door after repairing it. The rubber boot was not covering the harness entirely allowing moisture to enter. After the pins were replaced, I used some black silicone to seal the gap and it has been working ever since.
Next item:
I know that the low profile tires on the car (Eagle GT's - replacements) are going to ride rough, but this car seems feel every bump and imperfection in the road. The car handles confidently, in fact it is one of it's best quality's - but the ride is not well damped in the least. Is there anything obvious I can do for this? I believe the shocks and struts to be in good shape as well.
Lastly, what maintainence should I be doing at this 63K point besides the timing belt to keep this puppy running for another 60k?
Thank you in advance for all the advice.
gstern1994@cs.com
Before that we had an axle boot that tore, and the axle grease leaked out and got noisy, too. You can inspect the axle boot visually to see if it's OK.
It could also be tire/wheel balance, or uneven tire pressue. The latter could also be causing the stiff ride.
-juice
Tire pressure is semi-critical on these cars: 35 psi is about as high as I'd go up front, maybe 32 psi for the rear.
1. If any cam or crankshaft seals are leaking when you change the timing belt also get them replaced. Change at 120K regardless.
2. If the seals are good, change over to Valvoline Maxlife. Reduces oil consumption, sludge, and specially conditions seals to hopefully last to 120K. My cam and crankshaft seals went at 110K and required duplicate repair. Maxlife is a cheap way to help ensure that they can last.
3. I always change out the Brake and Power steering fluid every 30,000 miles.
4. Change transmission fluid every 15K with automatic, and every 30K with manual. Recommend adding Lubegard to preserve transmission integrity, condition seals, reduce acids, and lower operating temperatures. Recommended by my Mazda specialist mechanic.
5. Check struts for leaks. If they leak replace them immediately.
Have a mechanic with steering components expertise intensively inspect the following: wheel bearings, control arms, A arm, tie rods, ball joints, struts and strut mounts. One or more components may be worn out. When I bought the car at 60K I had a similar vibration and ignored it for 40 thousand miles. Big mistake. We wore out some non-wearing components like the power control arm on one side. Expensive. Don't wait.
My Mazda has a much better road feel without jarring when I switched to KYB g/2 struts. The original Struts were leaking. They are softer initially, but really firm up in harsher conditions when needed. I like the ride much better. Responsive, and can feel the road without any jarring.