Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

heydave_

I bought a '97 NV with the performance & handling package (a MUST),AS/CT and 27,000 miles in August from an Old dealer in Milwaukee. Got it for $11,700 down from $13,900 asking, which I though was a pretty good deal. Get 25+ mpg on highway cruises at 70-75 mph. So far I love the car except for the sickly Florida retiree light green color (I'm 43, not ready for Florida yet).

I had the trans fluid and filter changes based on reports of "flutter", which I didn't experience and don't want to. Also, I guess I can expect my brake lines to rust out soon, as they are quite rusty looking now as this is a Wisconsin car. Also waiting for the intake manifold to self destruct, but I got the secret warranty number ready for that. Oil filter change is a pain, as you must remember to turn the steering wheel hard right before shutting down the engine and draining the oil, or it's almost impossible to get the filter out because the driver's side steering arm interferes.

It's great owning this car, as everyone on the highway thinks it's a police cruiser, including the cops. I've had a lot of them wave at me as I go by, thinking I'm some unmarked I guess. Also the nut cases that like to blow by you on the 4 lane at 90 mph come screaming up behind you and then slam on the brakes in panic, following behind me until they realize I'm a civilian - . I've got a police scanner radio in the car, so I have the requisite little antenna on the left rear fender to complete the effect.

Can anyone tell me if my nice factory dual exhaust system is stainless? I hate to think what it might cost to replace it!!

heydave_

Just read my own response and here are the corrections
...I bought a 97 CV, not an NV
...it has ABS/TC, not AS/CT (whatever that is)

dbd34

The fuel pump reset button is provided in the case of rollover to stop pumping in an accident. What is probably happening is that when going downhill, the fuel level is too low, and the pump goes 'dry' for a moment. This will trip the pump off (for good reason - you DON'T want the pump or fuel system to EVER run dry).

Solution: keep the fuel tank full, go down less steep hills, see if there is a stopped-up fuel filter that is making fuel delivery marginal on level ground.

mhlii

mhlii

your C/V does have a stainless steel exhaust system. All C/V's and G/M's from 1992 on have the stainless system

rogerdp

I have a 1996 GM with 32,000 original miles. I have a shudder at about 35-40 MPH when accelerating. I have noticed that there is a lot of talk about this on several sites. Somewhere I read about a "Friction Enhancer"?? or something similar that is added to the transmission fluid at the time it is changed. This stuff is supposed to be available from Ford dealers. Does any one know the proper name? And have you tried it? Does Ford have a secret warranty on this problem? It seems to be a common item. Thanks!!

kinley

Your problem was solved when I changed to semi synthetic Mercon V fluid. Drain not only the tranny, but the fluid coupling as well. Pricey fluid, but worth it to me.

dmers

We purchased a loaded 2000 GM in July, 2000 and had only one major problem (but a good one): a short in the Electronics system causing the electroic dash to to out as well as the A/C, locks, radio, etc. the dealer did a good job tracking it down with the help of Ford direct. It was hard to track down. It was hooked into the Moon Roof.

In So ILL with 3 weeks of ice and snow in Dec/Jan, my wife loves getting around without any problems in this car. The 9 inches of snow and ice have been on our roads for 3 weeks and the Traction Control works great!!!

We normally get 130K trouble-free miles on these cars (our 5th) An extended warranty is a waste of $$$ on these cars when you buy them 1-2 years old.

b4z

If you click on the 2001 La auto show on edmunds home page you can see the new option package with floor shift and monochromatic paint.
Not the Mercury Maraauder we were looking for but better than nothing.

pingsjm1

after i wrecked my '95 at 40mph, and didnt even come close to getting injured, i then decided i didnt want anything smaller than a crown/marq. they are so inexpensive for a 4-door, rwd, V8.

you all should check out www.crownvic.net

Sporin

Have you guys seen this?



Good discussion about this and the Mercury Marauder at...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/vwbb/Forum1/HTML/012930.html

Here's the CV Sport from the auto show...


And the interior...


I'd get in line for that Blackhawk which I assume would have the SPORT interior as well. I've go tmy Blues Brothers CD's ready to roll. :-)

torodave

Hey, Sporin, thanks for the photo's! I've read about the car, but first time I've seen it. We don't get the C/V up here in Canada, but I'm wondering whether they'll let us have the Sport as there's no equivalent model for the G/M?!?! I hope so!!!! Our auto show is in Feb. so I guess I'll find out then. Happy New Year everybody.

tpken

Perhaps there IS hope for a new CV/GM that will appeal to those of us who love the big car ride but are not enamored of driving a car that screams "Silver Crowned [Vic] Warrior".

No offense to the AARP set intended - I'm finding a few gray hairs now too - just stating the fact that the present car needs major restyling to appeal to a younger market.

I'm looking for a new ride this year to replace the embarrasingly old '90 GM (but it refuses to die!), I've driven the new Impala LS and Passionately LOVE it and I recently tried out a 2000 CV with Performance and Handling package and liked the feel - but the dated styling and requisite bench seat are too much of a barrier this time around.

Maybe if Ford would start with the performance aspects of this "Sport" model and then do some aggressive restyling as Chevy has on their Impala, I would consider one of these great road cars again. Nevertheless, they've still got a ways to go to keep me in the Ford camp.

Ken

blackstone3

What do you think the starting price will be for the Blackhawk and Marauder?

b4z

According to M/T(which is frequently wrong) the 2002 Blackhawk will have a 4.6L motor with 235hp.
12.4 front rotors. 3.27 axle and 1 inch drop.
Tires are 255/45zr18.
The Marauder will have a 5.4L engine.
If it has 300 hp it will be faster than the Impala SS. Lets hope they put a beefed up transmission in it.

tpken

at the Detroit auto show. It's breathtaking - and stealing the show. No wonder Ford kept their display under wraps prior to the opening. This 49 Ford coupe inspiration is built on a stretched LS platform that should provide a fabulous ride. Imagine trading in a CV (with PH of course) for that beauty in a few years!

Check www.autonews.com and link to the autoshow - best way to see the show.

Ken

jcooney3

The sickly retiree color has been changed from green to "chad" white

kingfishgus

Just a quick note since this keeps coming up. New dealer tried to charge me $300 to do the full fluid change. At other times, at my usual Merc dealer, it was $189. Found out that the $300 dealer did not have the power flushing tool so it was more labor intensive. Also was told by another GM owner that some Express oil change shops have the tool and will change the full 15 quarts and filter for around $100. Haven't tried Express yet but I may this time.

iusecad

I've been to Jiffy Lube a few times and have seen they will do this... never had it done myself tho...

http://www.jiffylube.com/services/t_tech.asp

When I was there, I thought it showed $179 up on their "Menu"...

heydave_

I love my 97 CV with the PH option and very low miles, and I got a great deal on it, but it is a terrible color. Sickly retiree green, as I said earlier, or perhaps metallic pea (for those that have seen Natl Lampoon's Vacation). The paint is perfectly good, no door dings, certainly no rust, just an awful color.
My question, has anyone had any experience changing color on a car? Is it possible to just scuff sand the clearcoat and paint over it? Will the new color (ie. black) just fall off later and make it look like crap? I know that door jambs, underhood, etc. is a pain, but it can be done. I can envision my green pea with shiny black paint, some chromed alum wheels, and some other monochromatic treatment looking like a poor man's Blackhawk instead of an unmarked squad. Any thoughts on this??? Thanks.

b4z

Gm repainted my iroc in '93 due to a peeling paint problem. The clearcoat and basecoat(colorcoat) was seperating from the primer.
They sanded the car down to the baremetal and repainted the areas that were visible from the outside. They did not do doorjambs, or underhood, or wheel well lips.
They repainted with a polyurethane basecoat/clearoat system. It was put in the oven then buffed out with a buffing wheel.
It has retained its gloss BETTER than the original paint, which was six years old at the time.
The downside is that the polyurethane is not as flexible(even with flex agent added) than the original paint. So if you bump anything with your bumper it will probably crack the paint.
The dealership valued this paint job at $1500.
Paint shops do your kind of car all the time. If i were you i would give them the car as clean as possible. Make sure they tape off properly, especially doors and gaskets. Get them to scuff the paint down with scotchbrite pads and go for it.
You should be able to get a decent paint job for well under $1000, and probably for less than $700.

latercat

95 GM 51K miles with regular maintenance. When accelerating steadily up to 60 mph, when we reach a speed between 40 to 55 mph, there is a one time vibration feeling/noise that occurs. It feels like driving over those road shoulder warning marks that are cut into the road to wake you up when you're drifting off the road. The question: is it related to the transmission, torque converter or rear end. What diagnostic would you use to pin it down? How do you fix it? How much? Thanks, latercat

kinley

Try replacing the fluid in the transmission AND the torque converter. Our 95 T Bird did the same thing and we put in 13 quarts of Mercon V semi synthetic transmission fluid after draining both the transmission AND the converter. It has been smooth ever since. (Hint) The Merc dealer will seel you the fluid cheaper than an independent garage who buys it from him to begin with. Just have the dealer do it. Good Luck

robert98

I purchased a used 1998 NV I/the I & I package and have been driving it for about 6 months. I really enjoy the car but have the following problems and am wondering if anyone has some input on them. 1) I maintain a constant 17.8/17.9 MPG. I took this car for it's first long highway run this past week. For the first time, I saw 18.0. After reading comments from others with the same car but 1/2 yr earlier, I see 24.0 mentioned. Is this this Normal for this year car? 2) I've noticed a slipping in the transmission when accelerating into passing gear. Very noticeable as the engine really whines. 3)I have a "mouse" in the dr/side front end. Has anyone experienced this and narrowed down where the "squeak" might be coming from?
Any responces would be appreciated and thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.

aquanomics

1) Poor mileage can result from a number of things. First, try disconnecting your negative (-) battery cable for 15 minutes and press the brake pedal. Reconnect and follow your manual's instructions for retraining the ecm.

2) I've read several complaints regarding squeaky CVs. I've forgotten the cause or cure. Try searching www.deja.com newsgroups.

Good luck.

jayvee

does anyone know when this car will be available?

derekful_2000

Another common problem with all 4.6L engines is a dirty throttle body, idle air control valve, and particularly the EGR passages. Thorough cleaning will require the removal of the throttle body, EGR valve, and IAC valve. If the EGR port is especially clogged, also check all EGR passages for buildup.

A dirty intake tract can cause all sorts of problems ranging from poor mileage, rough idle, or even a no-start condition, often without setting a DTC.

rogerdp

Kinley,
Thanks for the advice on the transmission shudder. I replaced the fluid in the trans and converter last week. NO MORE SHUDDER. Just a little info for the rest of you who have this problem and don't want to pay outrageous prices for the fluid. I bought AAMCO MERCON 5 Semi Synthetic Fluid at Autozone. It was only 2.79 per quart.
RogerdP

kinley

Using the Ford brand can cost up to ten times what you paid. Good on you and you are welcome.

finiteguy

I just bought a 98 Grand Marquis with 17,000 miles on it. Great car. I have been told to watch the transmission by others (shudder problem). I will have the fluid changed in a month or so. I noticed that people are paying upwards of $300.00 for transmission fluid change. Why is this so expensive? I just had my wife's Lesabre done for $75.00 fluid and filter at a reputable transmission place. Is there something I'm missing?

Also, on another topic, I plan on buying snow tires. My mechanic wants to sell me Cooper snow tires I/studs, and wheels and balancing for $350 (2 tires only). Is this a little high? Are Cooper tires any good? Don't know much about Cooper tires. Any advice on these topics would be helpful. I am new to Ford products. I am getting tired of GM. I think I am going to like this Merc.

tpken

Ihave driven with studded snows for 8 winters now on 2 Grand Marquis sedans. All winter driving has been with various studded snows which have gotten me through absolutely anything that was remotely drivable. The key for me has been to replace those snows when the studs wear down too much as opposed to the tire itself - in other words, the make of the tire and associated longevity has been irrelevant. The studs are what do the trick on icy roads. One may certainly argue the relative merits of various tires on wet surfaces alona and my experience has been that Goodyear top of the line snows sold through Sears are fine. My latest aren't top notch tires and tend to slip a bit more than Blizzacks I had for a couple of winters - they were the best overall.

Some dealers will only sell you sets of 4 snows today - I have no experience there and have been very happy with rear set up only.

I had a set of Coopers on a 86 Camry to replace the OEM Toyos and was happy with them - probably got 60K out of them and they were substantially less money than Goodyears at the time. Not exactly a performance tire but decent for average driving.

Good luck to you, finiteguy, with your 98 GM. My GMs have been reliable up to the 90K mile mark at which time both have required various work including alternators, radiators, wheel bearings, computer modules, etc. I have 142K presently on a '90 which drives as smoothly and solidly as when I bought it with 60K 3.5 years ago. I bought a 2000 Bonneville this past Saturday which will replace this old car now so I'm headed to the General, away from Ford but I have no complaints about Grand Marquis except that the present styling is too conservative for me this time. I'm tired of the flying brick I drive and want something styled for 2000.

Best wishes for your new ride - you'll love it, I know

Ken

Sporin

I'm using Cooper Weahtermasters (no studs) on my old Volvo wagon which is RWD. The tires, plus some sand in the back have provided me with simply excellent traction is some miserable, Vermont winter conditions.

They are an excellent compromise for ice, snow and wet or dry roads. I tend to think that studs are overkill for 99% of winter driving, but I live on a paved road with a flat paved driveway.

I run 4, and they were about $50/a piece mounted and balanced on my regular wheels. That's a small size though... 195/75/14's.

melmo

I've heard several stories relative to just what happens in this car while driving in overdrive (at speed 30 to 60 mph) and taking your foot off the gas. Does the tray "unlock" i.e., allowing the car to free wheel? Or, does it stay in "lock" and subsequently begin to decelerate due to engine compression. Or, perhaps, even if it does unlock, do you still get significant engine deceleration from engine decompression?

finiteguy

Hi everyone: I recently purchased a 98 GM S. This is a really great car. It has 17,800 miles on it and rides extremely smooth. No transmission shudder. The car is still under warrantee until July, 2001. I'm thinking of getting the transmission fluid changed soon, due to everyone's helpful advice on the benefits of doing this.
Should I do this now or wait till the warrantee is close to expiring? If I do develop shudder before the warrantee is over will Ford fix the problem? Do all of these cars develop the problem eventually? I'm not sure why changing the fluid makes the problem go away. Does something get clogged? If it does then I assume that various parts can get damaged.
Sorry to have so many questions. I am a mechanical engineer and I have a lot of interest in these matters.

tpken

Others can address these matters with more technical expertise than I so I won't attempt it, but there is another issue you should be aware of (and perhaps you already are) regarding the plastic intake manifold that has been reported on in posts here and at the Lincoln Town Car forum. It would be worth your while to read the posting history regarding this if you have not done so already.

Best wishes on your new ride. Grand Marquis has served me well for 7.5 years now (an '88 and a '90). At 143K, my 90 is still very responsive and has many miles left in her.

Ken

bakertank

I'm new to this group- lot's of good info!
Mine is a 92 GM with 137000 miles. It has severe knocking on 87 octane when accelerating in high gear. I have cleaned the EGR passages. I also removed the octane adjust plug per a service bulletin, which made it better by retarding the timing a bit. That service bulletin also said that if this did not fix it, the computer needed replaced. Has anyone experienced this, and if so, did the computer replacement fix it?

tpken

A common problem at 100K is for the type of engine knocking you reference - solvable by replacing the MAP sensor. I had it done at about 125K and the car has run as smooth as silk ever since. I do not remember offhand what the price was - but it seems like under $100.

Good luck

Ken

rea98d

Also, replace the plugs & wires. I had to do it on my 4.6L T-Bird (Yes, I hang out here and in the Town Car forum for info on my Bird. Many of the technical bits are the same), at about 140,000 miles or so. A word of warning-plug wires for the 4.6 are anywhere from 80-100 dollars, and a set of 8 plugs will cost about 20 or 25 (yes, you can get cheaper plugs, but unless you enjoy replacing spark plugs every weekend, get the best they have), so budget about 125 dollars for the job. My Grand Marquis has the 400M engine (1978 model), and a set of plugs and wires set me back about $25. Boy was I shocked when I got prices for my T-Bird!

Now a question about only putting two snow tires on a car-Why would you put them on the rear? Yes, I know a Grand Marquis is rear wheel drive (I own one! A 1978 model, mind you, but still RWD V-8), but it is the front wheels that do the steering, and the lion's share of the stopping. If you 2 snow tires were in the back, you could get going better, but still suffer in the stopping and steering dept. (a bit more important, the last time I checked). In the front, you'd have to go easy on the throttle, but could control where you were going. And yes, I have driven my bird on the ice, so I know what it's like trying to get enough traction to get going, and I also it can be done with a very light right foot.
-Thanks.

bakertank

Ken,

Did you have a check engine light? How did they determine it was the MAF sensor? I am hesitant to change it since I've been down that road before with other vehicles and ended up with new sensors but the same old problem!

Diagnostics have been run on it and nothing showed up.

Thanks,

Jeff

bakertank

It has Bosch platinum plugs and new wires. The knocking was there before and after they were changed. Thanks for the info.

As for snow tires, I don't have much advice since I've just spent the last two winters sliding around! I need some advice myself!

tpken

The car had been running roughly and I mentioned to the mechanic (private shop - not dealer) the possibility of sensors needing replacement. No warning lights came on. The mechanic may have done diagnostics, but in any event, he had it figured out and saved me additional expense of trying this and that first. Actually, a couple of work associates have the same car and had clued me to watch out for this potentially hard to diagnose problem. Wish I remembered more of the situation at the time but it's quite a while ago now.

Ken

rea98d

Are the plugs single electrode? Multiple electrode plugs (ie, splitfire, bosh platinum +4, ect) DO NOT work very well in 4.6 engines. This is why the DPO's splitfires in my car were replaced after only 30,000 miles. NEVER AGAIN!

finiteguy

HI All: My 98 Marquis that I bought last week is making a strange noise when I back out of my driveway, only when I cut the wheel hard. Seems to happen only when I turn the wheel near the limit. Sounds like something is hitting or scraping. Anyone have a clue about what this might be? The car is still under warantee but its always good to tell the repair people roughly where the problem is.

Hacksaw

Grease the steering stops. It's part of the recommended lube schedule for the car, although many mechanics forget to do this.

I have over 80k trouble free miles on my 98 CV and I'm looking forward to another 120k on top of that. Keep up with the regular maintenance (including the 30k mile transmission flushes, which might cost $80/each) and you should be home free.

sbrown8243

Where can I go to get an actual copy of TSB# 97M91 which deals with the faulty resin intake manifolds on Crown Vic's? I need it to attach to my lawsuit against Ford.

mhlii

I have a 89 C/V with the Insta-Clear Windshield. Some little kid broke it the other day with a ball, and I can't fine anyone who sells them. They just keep telling me replace it with a regular one, but I don't want a reg. one! I live in the Northeast and this car is not garaged so it is imparative that I find a place that sells them. Does anyone know where to get one? There are too many of these cars equipped with Insta-Clear Windshields not to be able to get them anywhere! There must be some place to get them?? What do other people do? I see alot of cars here in the Northerast with them so there must be a place that sells them.

Thanks for any help,
Mike

naranjo1

Need help! I have a 98 Mystique which has a problem within the electrical system. My radio has been replaced 3 times, my rear defogger window once, the amplifier once, not to mention numerous fuses also. Last time I had it looked at, the amplifier was replaced. Everything was okay for two months before the problem started all over again. My radio goes out completely, my interior lights and the power to my side view mirrors also go out. I start hearing a clicking sound everytime I apply my foot to the brakes (in the gear shift). I've taken it numerous times to the same Mercury service center and they are as perplexed as I am. They have no idea what's causing the fuses to burn out. But, it seems to be a domino effect, when one thing goes, sure enough, within days, everything I mentioned starts to go one by one. If anybody out there has any clue as to what this can be, please help! I don't know what else to. I have also called and written directly to Ford about this problem. All they can say is they'll have the service manager from the center I've been taking it to call me. He's already called me. But my faith in them is none. Would appreciate any help! Thanks!

code3mmc3

Does Ford sell the Police Interceptor package Crown Vics to the public ?
If the official answer is no, are there any rogue dealers out there that *will* sell them ?

What is the specific content of the PI package ?

How does the performance of the PI package compare to the optional ride & handling package ?

Does the PI use a different transmission from regular Crown Vics ???
I understand that these cars have a bad history of tranny problems....

Any advice for buying a used police interceptor at a police auction ?
I am looking for one to use as a command vehicle for a Civil Air Patrol search and rescue team....would prefer to buy a brand new one if possible but a good used one will do. Prices on used PI cars run from $2500 to $9,000 in my area (Louisville, KY).

Please email me privately as well as post replies since I don't check this board as often as I used to....

Mike in Louisville, Kentucky

rea98d

Ford does not sell the police package Crown Victoria to the general public, because, quite frankly, the Crown Vic is the best police car made (Since GM killed the Caprice), and Ford can barely keep up with demand from law enforcement, so the general public wanting these cars would overload them. (I think they call the police version "Police Interceptor" and dropped the Crown Victoria name. Same car though).
*However* Since you're wanting one for a command vehicle for the CAP, you may still be able to order one. I don't know for sure what agencies Ford will sell to, but its worth looking into. Talk to your dealer, and tell him up front your with the CAP and what you need the car for. The only way I've heard of that Police Interceptors have been sold new to the public was when a Police Department ordered one, and changed their mind after the car was delivered to a dealership, and the dealer had to get rid of the thing. Doesn't happen that often.
As far as buying one at auction, don't. Despite being cheap, late model cars, these vehicles have been ABUSED by the cops in the worst sort of way. Cops are hard on their cars. It's part of the job. If you do have to get one at auction, try and find one driven by the Chief/Supervisor, or some city official, and not a regular patrol car.
Whatever you decide doing, good luck.

cogito98

Hi;

I live in California and I wonder if it is possible to buy a Crown Vic P71 (police interceptor) out-of-state and drive it here in this state. I don't even know if these dual exhaust P71s have catalytic converters or if they can pass the required smog check before getting the car registered.

Any info?

Frank Wallis
cogito98@theglobe.com