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I had the trans fluid and filter changes based on reports of "flutter", which I didn't experience and don't want to. Also, I guess I can expect my brake lines to rust out soon, as they are quite rusty looking now as this is a Wisconsin car. Also waiting for the intake manifold to self destruct, but I got the secret warranty number ready for that. Oil filter change is a pain, as you must remember to turn the steering wheel hard right before shutting down the engine and draining the oil, or it's almost impossible to get the filter out because the driver's side steering arm interferes.
It's great owning this car, as everyone on the highway thinks it's a police cruiser, including the cops. I've had a lot of them wave at me as I go by, thinking I'm some unmarked I guess. Also the nut cases that like to blow by you on the 4 lane at 90 mph come screaming up behind you and then slam on the brakes in panic, following behind me until they realize I'm a civilian - . I've got a police scanner radio in the car, so I have the requisite little antenna on the left rear fender to complete the effect.
Can anyone tell me if my nice factory dual exhaust system is stainless? I hate to think what it might cost to replace it!!
...I bought a 97 CV, not an NV
...it has ABS/TC, not AS/CT (whatever that is)
Solution: keep the fuel tank full, go down less steep hills, see if there is a stopped-up fuel filter that is making fuel delivery marginal on level ground.
In So ILL with 3 weeks of ice and snow in Dec/Jan, my wife loves getting around without any problems in this car. The 9 inches of snow and ice have been on our roads for 3 weeks and the Traction Control works great!!!
We normally get 130K trouble-free miles on these cars (our 5th) An extended warranty is a waste of $$$ on these cars when you buy them 1-2 years old.
Not the Mercury Maraauder we were looking for but better than nothing.
you all should check out www.crownvic.net
Good discussion about this and the Mercury Marauder at...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/vwbb/Forum1/HTML/012930.html
Here's the CV Sport from the auto show...
And the interior...
I'd get in line for that Blackhawk which I assume would have the SPORT interior as well. I've go tmy Blues Brothers CD's ready to roll. :-)
No offense to the AARP set intended - I'm finding a few gray hairs now too - just stating the fact that the present car needs major restyling to appeal to a younger market.
I'm looking for a new ride this year to replace the embarrasingly old '90 GM (but it refuses to die!), I've driven the new Impala LS and Passionately LOVE it and I recently tried out a 2000 CV with Performance and Handling package and liked the feel - but the dated styling and requisite bench seat are too much of a barrier this time around.
Maybe if Ford would start with the performance aspects of this "Sport" model and then do some aggressive restyling as Chevy has on their Impala, I would consider one of these great road cars again. Nevertheless, they've still got a ways to go to keep me in the Ford camp.
Ken
12.4 front rotors. 3.27 axle and 1 inch drop.
Tires are 255/45zr18.
The Marauder will have a 5.4L engine.
If it has 300 hp it will be faster than the Impala SS. Lets hope they put a beefed up transmission in it.
Check www.autonews.com and link to the autoshow - best way to see the show.
Ken
http://www.jiffylube.com/services/t_tech.asp
When I was there, I thought it showed $179 up on their "Menu"...
My question, has anyone had any experience changing color on a car? Is it possible to just scuff sand the clearcoat and paint over it? Will the new color (ie. black) just fall off later and make it look like crap? I know that door jambs, underhood, etc. is a pain, but it can be done. I can envision my green pea with shiny black paint, some chromed alum wheels, and some other monochromatic treatment looking like a poor man's Blackhawk instead of an unmarked squad. Any thoughts on this??? Thanks.
They sanded the car down to the baremetal and repainted the areas that were visible from the outside. They did not do doorjambs, or underhood, or wheel well lips.
They repainted with a polyurethane basecoat/clearoat system. It was put in the oven then buffed out with a buffing wheel.
It has retained its gloss BETTER than the original paint, which was six years old at the time.
The downside is that the polyurethane is not as flexible(even with flex agent added) than the original paint. So if you bump anything with your bumper it will probably crack the paint.
The dealership valued this paint job at $1500.
Paint shops do your kind of car all the time. If i were you i would give them the car as clean as possible. Make sure they tape off properly, especially doors and gaskets. Get them to scuff the paint down with scotchbrite pads and go for it.
You should be able to get a decent paint job for well under $1000, and probably for less than $700.
Any responces would be appreciated and thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.
2) I've read several complaints regarding squeaky CVs. I've forgotten the cause or cure. Try searching www.deja.com newsgroups.
Good luck.
A dirty intake tract can cause all sorts of problems ranging from poor mileage, rough idle, or even a no-start condition, often without setting a DTC.
Thanks for the advice on the transmission shudder. I replaced the fluid in the trans and converter last week. NO MORE SHUDDER. Just a little info for the rest of you who have this problem and don't want to pay outrageous prices for the fluid. I bought AAMCO MERCON 5 Semi Synthetic Fluid at Autozone. It was only 2.79 per quart.
RogerdP
Also, on another topic, I plan on buying snow tires. My mechanic wants to sell me Cooper snow tires I/studs, and wheels and balancing for $350 (2 tires only). Is this a little high? Are Cooper tires any good? Don't know much about Cooper tires. Any advice on these topics would be helpful. I am new to Ford products. I am getting tired of GM. I think I am going to like this Merc.
Some dealers will only sell you sets of 4 snows today - I have no experience there and have been very happy with rear set up only.
I had a set of Coopers on a 86 Camry to replace the OEM Toyos and was happy with them - probably got 60K out of them and they were substantially less money than Goodyears at the time. Not exactly a performance tire but decent for average driving.
Good luck to you, finiteguy, with your 98 GM. My GMs have been reliable up to the 90K mile mark at which time both have required various work including alternators, radiators, wheel bearings, computer modules, etc. I have 142K presently on a '90 which drives as smoothly and solidly as when I bought it with 60K 3.5 years ago. I bought a 2000 Bonneville this past Saturday which will replace this old car now so I'm headed to the General, away from Ford but I have no complaints about Grand Marquis except that the present styling is too conservative for me this time. I'm tired of the flying brick I drive and want something styled for 2000.
Best wishes for your new ride - you'll love it, I know
Ken
They are an excellent compromise for ice, snow and wet or dry roads. I tend to think that studs are overkill for 99% of winter driving, but I live on a paved road with a flat paved driveway.
I run 4, and they were about $50/a piece mounted and balanced on my regular wheels. That's a small size though... 195/75/14's.
Should I do this now or wait till the warrantee is close to expiring? If I do develop shudder before the warrantee is over will Ford fix the problem? Do all of these cars develop the problem eventually? I'm not sure why changing the fluid makes the problem go away. Does something get clogged? If it does then I assume that various parts can get damaged.
Sorry to have so many questions. I am a mechanical engineer and I have a lot of interest in these matters.
Best wishes on your new ride. Grand Marquis has served me well for 7.5 years now (an '88 and a '90). At 143K, my 90 is still very responsive and has many miles left in her.
Ken
Mine is a 92 GM with 137000 miles. It has severe knocking on 87 octane when accelerating in high gear. I have cleaned the EGR passages. I also removed the octane adjust plug per a service bulletin, which made it better by retarding the timing a bit. That service bulletin also said that if this did not fix it, the computer needed replaced. Has anyone experienced this, and if so, did the computer replacement fix it?
Good luck
Ken
Now a question about only putting two snow tires on a car-Why would you put them on the rear? Yes, I know a Grand Marquis is rear wheel drive (I own one! A 1978 model, mind you, but still RWD V-8), but it is the front wheels that do the steering, and the lion's share of the stopping. If you 2 snow tires were in the back, you could get going better, but still suffer in the stopping and steering dept. (a bit more important, the last time I checked). In the front, you'd have to go easy on the throttle, but could control where you were going. And yes, I have driven my bird on the ice, so I know what it's like trying to get enough traction to get going, and I also it can be done with a very light right foot.
-Thanks.
Did you have a check engine light? How did they determine it was the MAF sensor? I am hesitant to change it since I've been down that road before with other vehicles and ended up with new sensors but the same old problem!
Diagnostics have been run on it and nothing showed up.
Thanks,
Jeff
As for snow tires, I don't have much advice since I've just spent the last two winters sliding around! I need some advice myself!
Ken
I have over 80k trouble free miles on my 98 CV and I'm looking forward to another 120k on top of that. Keep up with the regular maintenance (including the 30k mile transmission flushes, which might cost $80/each) and you should be home free.
Thanks for any help,
Mike
If the official answer is no, are there any rogue dealers out there that *will* sell them ?
What is the specific content of the PI package ?
How does the performance of the PI package compare to the optional ride & handling package ?
Does the PI use a different transmission from regular Crown Vics ???
I understand that these cars have a bad history of tranny problems....
Any advice for buying a used police interceptor at a police auction ?
I am looking for one to use as a command vehicle for a Civil Air Patrol search and rescue team....would prefer to buy a brand new one if possible but a good used one will do. Prices on used PI cars run from $2500 to $9,000 in my area (Louisville, KY).
Please email me privately as well as post replies since I don't check this board as often as I used to....
Mike in Louisville, Kentucky
*However* Since you're wanting one for a command vehicle for the CAP, you may still be able to order one. I don't know for sure what agencies Ford will sell to, but its worth looking into. Talk to your dealer, and tell him up front your with the CAP and what you need the car for. The only way I've heard of that Police Interceptors have been sold new to the public was when a Police Department ordered one, and changed their mind after the car was delivered to a dealership, and the dealer had to get rid of the thing. Doesn't happen that often.
As far as buying one at auction, don't. Despite being cheap, late model cars, these vehicles have been ABUSED by the cops in the worst sort of way. Cops are hard on their cars. It's part of the job. If you do have to get one at auction, try and find one driven by the Chief/Supervisor, or some city official, and not a regular patrol car.
Whatever you decide doing, good luck.
I live in California and I wonder if it is possible to buy a Crown Vic P71 (police interceptor) out-of-state and drive it here in this state. I don't even know if these dual exhaust P71s have catalytic converters or if they can pass the required smog check before getting the car registered.
Any info?
Frank Wallis
cogito98@theglobe.com