I've got 3.27:1 on my 98 and I usually get about 22.5mpg highway. I would imagine that the 00-01 with the 3.55:1 will get a little less. The 17-24 might have been for the 2.7? gears normally installed in the plain jane. An interesting note...I replaced my "cone of silence" air inlet with a section of shop vac (smooth section) and have noticed that my car seems to idle quicker....can't determine if that's actually true, or if I'm just hearing the idle more clearly now with the silencer removed. As for the LS line, they just leave me with an old man feel. IMHO the styling of the LS needs much more work than the CV/GM but then again that's subjective (different tastes for different folks). When I see Buicks being used for the majority of taxi/police/emergency work, I will buy one. I drive my cars hard, and expect them to stand up to that sort of treatment. To my knowledge the LS wouldn't cut that requirement especially being a front driver. The LS "best seller" stats aren't something to look up to when you consider that the general population of America are so easily misguided (it is election year). After driving FWD cars for most of my driving experience, RWD is phat! Will not consider FWD again, even if I have to break that 30K boundary to get to it.
OK, I'm having a weird intermittent problem with my 96 CV. If anybody has seen this before or has any idea what is causing it, I'll be greatful.
The worst part is that is is so intermittent. It has happened twice in the last 2 days, but prior to that, only 2 times in a year and a half. There is NO way I'm going to take it to a mechanic without getting a simple "could not duplicate" response.
The problem occurs only with a cold engine. I start the car and it will immediately stall. It will run only if I keep my foot on the gas pedal. If I let it idle, it will die. It's hard to drive this way, because when I come to a stop or even coast it will die unless I keep feeding it gas. The car will fully warm up and still exhibit the problem, but then suddenly it will go away after about 10 or 15 minutes of driving. The next time I use the car it seems just fine. It doesn't seem to be weather related and there are no other common circumstances I can find.
I suspected the temperature sending unit was incorrectly telling the computer that the car was already warmed up. The last time it was exhibiting the problem, I tried disconnecting both of the TSUs to see if it would idle, but it wouldn't.
As long as it's happening only twice a year, I wasn't that concerned, but as hard as this car is to steer without power steering, it could be a hazard if it stalled in an intersection or while pulling into traffic. It also happened once when my mother was moving my car. She couldn't even get it from the street into her driveway which is downhill. I wouldn't feel comfortable loaning this car to someone.
Modern drivetrain technology is front wheel drive. Look around, only the dinosaurs-no offense-still have rear drive. Major advantage is engine weight on the drive wheels for better traction. Goes well in slush and snow, can't honestly say that for rear wheel drive. Also the front drive eliminates the driveshaft tunnel in the passanger compartment. The interior in both of the cars is almost exactly the same size, check it out. By the way the LeSabres V6 puts out 205hp to the Fords 200hp. And Popular Mechanics just rated the LeSabre at 7.9 seconds to 60mph. Indy cars also have HUGE rear tires and the engines are in the rear over the tires to aid traction.
Yep, RWD is a real dinosaur, all right. I mean, someone really should do something about the LS400, that is *such* a lame-a** throwback to yesterday's technology. I can't imagine why *anyone* would buy one. And all those Mercedes too, they are just RWD crap! Not to mention the BMWs out there. Amazing that someone would attempt to foist such an obviously outdated piece of technology like that on the unwitting consumer. I'm gonna by the masterpiece of technology that is a Plymouth Horizon, a *FAR* more technologically advanced car than any stoneage Infinity Q45!
steering wheel feel to you with chains on the front tires? W/O chains on the level, the FWD may have the advantage. Driving up mountains - does the weight of the sedan shift towards the rear in proportion to the steepness of the road? With FWD what is the increased propensity for the rear end to slide around during a panic stop?
Having done panic stops in front and rear drive cars, I've never had any trouble with the rear end "sliding around" in a panic stop. In fact, the only problem I've had came from locking up the front tires on my T-bird (no ABS), hitting the curb and trashing my suspension. Anyway, all else being equal, your more likely to get fishtailing (oversteer? sliding around?) in RWD than you are in FWD. I've done it without trying in two different RWD cars, never in FWD. Just my 2 cents worth.
Ive recently bought a new chevy impala , and i ordered it with the 3800 and i have driven cv's ,and my grand mother has a 99 lx ,and for some reason i was shocked , but that 3800 feels just and if not more powerfull than the cv's ive driven, this is my first experiance with a 3800, and i have had many with 4.6s , something doesnt seem right, i heard great things about the 3800 and decided to give it a try , but its starting to turn this pretty much ford fan away, it doesnt ride quite as good , but it will certanly toast any 4.6 on take off and top end in my recent history with them.
Thanks for your help with my questions concerning window tinting on the CV. I have a lot to learn, but the Internet makes learning enjoyable. As I said, I have been away from the States for 10 years and have a lot to relearn about US "car culture." I am currently in a country where every little thing about your car sends certain messages, and if you don't know the local "car speak," then you miss half the fun of driving!
Now, I have some additional questions which I am sure will amuse most readers, but please remember that I am approaching US car speak as a virtual illiterate. I would like to learn a few things before I go back and buy a CV this summer!
1. I think white CVs are sharp, but it seems most police departments and state troopers use white CV's. Being a Southerner, I plan to install a CB and scanner (maybe even a shotgun rack!). So, a white CV with a CB antenna, I gather, may resemble an unmarked car. Is this a problem? Now if someone in South Chicago (where I will be using local libraries for research) sees my car parked on the street, would this cause resentment and perhaps make my car the target of vandalism? Where I live now the police are not regarded with contempt by anyone, and there are no unmarked cars. What about there???
2. How is a white CV with medium tinted windows? What about a black CV with medium tint? Do either of these combinations send the wrong message? I don't want to be pulled over and drug-searched every time I head for NC on the Interstate!
3. I live in the desert now and my car is hand washed (you won't believe this) 17 times a week. If I leave it for one day, it will look like an abandoned car! People here drive extremely badly, fender-benders are a fact of life, getting dinged once a month is the usual. For this reason, black and other dark colors aren't that popular. What about in the US? How often will I have to wash a black car so that it doesn't look dirty? Can a lighter car go much longer without a wash?
Sorry for the questions. I will post more from time to time. If anyone has any thoughts on the above, please let them be known! By the way, Btroy, I am from Stanly County--are you near there?
I've been quite enough. ...All things being equal, the only car to truly compare for ruggedness of a CV is the IMPALA (jury still out and the police aren't buying gobs of them, go figure). I hate to say it McDill but the CV has faster 0-60 time than the IMPALA (3800 series engine), and also higer top end 129+. Check out JUSTNET Michigan State Police Vehicles car comparisons for 2000 vehicles. For all of you front drivers, try reading the FWD vs RWD topic before you shoot off your mouths. Rea98d, you just sound like a bad driver, not someone I'd take advice from, especially on how a car handles. All your comment shows is that you didn't realise how fast you were going for the road conditions. McCarth, do your homework. The P+H has 215Hp not 200. Go away, or I shall taunt you a second time. By the way, what's that lump in the middle of the rear floor of your LS? It's not for a driveshaft, and although it's smaller than a RWD hump...its still there...oooppsss! I'd swear you were a BUICK salesperson with the way you try to push a product without really knowing what you are talking about. Prodigson: I haven't had any problems, love the CV (obvious by now). Go for it! I have CB and scanner antennas and have VERY few tailgaters.
Thanks for your help with my questions concerning window tinting on the CV. I have a lot to learn, but the Internet makes learning enjoyable. As I said, I have been away from the States for 10 years and have a lot to relearn about US "car culture." I am currently in a country where every little thing about your car sends certain messages, and if you don't know the local "car speak," then you miss half the fun of driving!
Now, I have some additional questions which I am sure will amuse most readers, but please remember that I am approaching US car speak as a virtual illiterate. I would like to learn a few things before I go back and buy a CV this summer!
1. I think white CVs are sharp, but it seems most police departments and state troopers use white CV's. Being a Southerner, I plan to install a CB and scanner (maybe even a shotgun rack!). So, a white CV with a CB antenna, I gather, may resemble an unmarked car. Is this a problem? Now if someone in South Chicago (where I will be using local libraries for research) sees my car parked on the street, would this cause resentment and perhaps make my car the target of vandalism? Where I live now the police are not regarded with contempt by anyone, and there are no unmarked cars. What about there???
2. How is a white CV with medium tinted windows? What about a black CV with medium tint? Do either of these combinations send the wrong message? I don't want to be pulled over and drug-searched every time I head for NC on the Interstate!
3. I live in the desert now and my car is hand washed (you won't believe this) 17 times a week. If I leave it for one day, it will look like an abandoned car! People here drive extremely badly, fender-benders are a fact of life, getting dinged once a month is the usual. For this reason, black and other dark colors aren't that popular. What about in the US? How often will I have to wash a black car so that it doesn't look dirty? Can a lighter car go much longer without a wash?
Sorry for the questions. I will post more from time to time. If anyone has any thoughts on the above, please let them be known! By the way, Btroy, I am from Stanly County--are you near there?
Opps! Double clutched and posted the same message twice. Hey, bthomp, don't praise the CV too much--we don't want the secret to get out! My wife was against the idea of getting a CV when we return to the States until I rented one for a day. Now she has seen the light and we just disagree about which color to get!
No tailgaters, huh. That sounds great. You know, the police here are not as sneaky as in the US, but whenever I see a CV in my rearview mirror I instinctively shudder. It seems resembling a cruiser has some advantages I didn't think of. I drive a wimpy 3 series here and have hit the dirt many times to make way for urban assault vehicles or idiots in Maximas. We are over 100 times more likely to die on the road here in Saudi Arabia than in America, though things are improving. They have radars on some bridges and if you are moving fast, a policeman will run (yes, ON FOOT) onto the road to stop you. This happened to me once and I just ignored him because I thought it was a beggar! I think I need to go through some serious debriefing before I am allowed to take to more civilized byways in the west.
So, bthomp, what do you do for kicks in you antennae-laden white CV? Do you sit on the shoulder of the road pointing a hair dryer at cars as they pass by? If you don't, you should. I would consider such a hobby as a public service! I notice that as things are improving here, they are getting worse in the States. We all owe it to our communities to get CVs and keep the maniacs in line!
bthop , ive got the report from justnet and the one from the la county sherrifs department , the police car road test from the la sherrifs shows the impala at o to 60 in 8.6 and the crown vic from o to 60 in 9.25 , and the justnet report shows the impala to be faster on the "top end" after 60 the impala beat the crown vic all the way to 100 , and if you read it you would know that the impala has a speed limiter at 124 , the family version of the impala with the 3800 is limited at 108 , i happen to know that you can reprogram the speed limiter and a 3800 impala will top out at 135, oh yeah you sound like a "BIG MAN" with all your antennas and and cb , and dont get down on that 4.6 to hard it will start use oil like all of our crown vic cop cars , and in civilian version the impala will stomp any crown vic the lowest ive seen on an impala was 7.5 and the highest was 8.2 , see i can be a jerk to.
Two for one! OK, Kinley I haven't ever tried chains on a front drive vehicle. Unless snow is very deep the car goes well --oh and no problems up hill in the slick and wet, that is an old wives tale. If the snow is so deep that I need chains I stay home (the wisdom of age). I do know that going over Donner pass a couple of years ago the Highway patrol was stopping rear wheel drives and making them put on chains and allowing front drives to procede without them-go figure. Johnbono the conversation was about two American brand cars, not the whole world. Look at the American manufatured cars and your eyes will see that except for the GM and it's Ford/Lincoln clones about 97% are front drive. And the vehicles you mentioned were WAY out of the Buick/GM discussion price wise. Of course you did not mention two very competitive front drivers from Saab and Audi and even the Volvo 70 series is front drive.
I’m planning to buy a new Crown Vic next year. The main reason I want this car is for the safety features and for the amount of relative luxury you get for a very affordable price. I have to admit, though, that having people mistake me for an undercover cop has a few advantages (no tailgaters, nobody blows by you on the freeway, no reckless behavior, etc.) I’m not planning on putting antennas or a driver’s side spotlight on my car, and I don’t even own a hair dryer, but to each his own.
However, there is one possible downside to having people think you’re a cop. Over the weekend (Saturday night) two police officers in Long Beach, CA were shot while sitting in a marked cruiser in a gang area. A few days earlier (Thursday), a Long Beach cop shot a gang member during a confrontation, and the police now believe the shooting of the police officers in the car was an act of revenge on the part of a fellow gang member (one cop died, the other is in fair condition). Anyway, it sort of made me think. What if you’re driving down the road one day or sitting in your Crown Vic in a parking lot writing a check, and some lunatic decides that this is the day he’s going to take out a cop.
Even if you don’t have antennas or hidden lights on the rear deck (like a real unmarked car), someone could still think you’re a cop. In all likelihood, the chances of this ever happening are probably quite remote. I’m lucky enough to live in a relatively safe county (only 37 murders here last year with a population of 980,000 residents) but these days you just never know who is or is not carrying a gun. And there are an awful lot of people out there who hate the police.
Am I getting all bent out of shape over nothing? Are there any CV owners out there who’ve had other drivers behave towards them in a suspicious or even threatening way? Please don’t tell me the only solution is to buy a Chevy Impala. I guess I could live with a Grand Marquis, but I prefer the styling of the CV any day.
yes buy an impala , i have one, great car ,ive had cv's , and they dont compare, and the 3800 IS JUST AS POWER FULL IF NOT MORE THAN THE 4.6 , you dont have to tell me you are all pissed so i will leave you all alone, i used to be a crown vic diehard , and then i drove an impala , sure its front wheel drive , SO WHAT , AND I CAME HERE HOPING THAT SOME OF YOU WOULD HELP ME SEE THE LIGHT ,BUT ALL I GOT WAS NEGATIVE COMMENTS, SO I CAN BE JUST AS NEGATIVE ------------IM GONE.
Does anyone have any suggestions for bypassing or disabling the interior trunk release button on the 1999 Crown Vic? The button is always live, even with the ignition key removed. If someone breaks into the car (through the glass), he would automatically gain easy access to the trunk as well--with just the push of a button.
An ideal solution would be to interrupt the circuit with an additional "secret" switch (in series)that would have to be thrown in addition to the door-mounted button to activate the trunk release. Any ideas????
Now that McDimwit is gone and his sidekick McCarth (ever notice that they both had to post at the same time? Maybe McDill is McCarth...tune in next week). I didn't get a chance to tell McDim that the CV was ALSO speed governed at 129mph. I'm not saying the CV is the fastest, best handling, best looking car out there. You get what you see. 99crownvic: There are three ways to disable the trunk lid. 1) Change the power feed to the trunk release door switch from "always" hot to an "run" power source. This is what the police departments do. 2) Install a secret cutoff switch in series with the trunk release door switch. 3) Install a cylindrical key switch in the blank next to the trunk release door switch in the blank left by the fuel filler door blank and wire in series with door switch. Option 3) is the easiest to perform. Prodigal: I drive through "the hood" every day after work, and have had no problems. I don't really think your chances are all that higher. Especially when you count in random acts like the CIA shootings a few years ago. They just happened to be at the wrong place at the wrong time. As for a RADAR oooppps hair dryers, that would be hilarious. I did have one of my co-workers ham it up on a trip by leaning forward like he was handcuffed in the rear seat. The looks we got! My car is a work horse though. I use it to haul building material, like concrete and mulch all the time. I will be getting a trailer this summer. I also just transported a big plastic swimming pool on the roof racks last weekend from NY to MD. The CV's are great all around cars.
This was McDill's first post on Topic 3341 post 234 IMPALLA IV "IVE READ MOST OF YOUR COMMENTS ,AND THEY ARE REAL POSSITIVE , I AGREE , IM TIRED OF READING REPORTS ON THE IMPALA THAT HAVE NEGATIVE COMMENTS , WE THE PEOPLE ,WHO BUY THE CARS ARE THE REAL CAR TESTERS ,NEVER THE LESS..." Sounds like a well educated, open minded person to me. Doesn't like hearing bad things about his own car, but feels free to romp around. He's a new member, I guess I should give him some slack though. I see he still hasn't mastered the caps lock key though:-) As a side note, I have the 98CV electrical manual on hand today...so I will look into the trunk lid release wiring.
Sorry, I don't know where Stanly County is. I'm from Raleigh, North Carolina. I visit the Chicago area occasionally because my Fiancee's family lives there.
I think you will be fine with a white or black car with medium tint, as far as image. My state has laws about how dark it can legally be. If Illinois is the same, reputable installers will follow the legal limits. If you happen to get it tinted out of state for some reason, be aware of this (it could fail inspection).
My experience has been that being mistaken for a cop is only good. Also, the illusion is only momentary. You don't really fool anyone under a closer look. It just plays out like this most of the time: someone is planning to pull out in traffic. There's a gap in front of you. Normally they would cut you off, but on first glance a thought shoots through their head: is that a cop? They hesitate and miss their chance to cut you off. As you pass by they see it's a civilian car. They cut off the next guy.
If you are in a bad enough area that the locals actually harass the cops, they are going to be able to recognize the difference between a real cop car and a senior-citizen-mobile in about 1 second. They are going to see you don't have a partition in the back seat, no mountain of radio equipment, no permanent license plate, etc. Also, cop cars are almost never tinted, especially in the snow-belt.
As for color, I'd think any color will stay pretty clean most of the year with a wash every week or two, depending on how particular you are. Black would be the worst, white's ok, and light, non-white colors the best (metallic silver or gold) at hiding dirt.
you found me , your good , but really i do like the crown vic even though i have a impala , and even though i was semi rude , you still had something nice to say, i appreciate that , i want bug you any more , if i do have something to say here again it will be nice. ----------thanks mattmcdill p.s , i have mastered the cap key ,that was my first post ,ive quit using complete caps.
In the DC area I have to wash my car almost every week in the spring due to the pollen. I echo BTroy. Most people can tell the difference up close. Its that couple of seconds that makes life that much easier in traffic. It's the ultimate in passive defence. Less chance of getting run into by tailgaters, less cahnce of being cut-off, and less likely at getting road raged...and that is very common in the DC area. One week driving in my wifes car convinced me completely of that:-)
Thanks for the encouraging advice. I guess you're probably right that once you take a closer look, it's easy to tell an unmarked CV police car from a civilian model. I'm probably over-reacting to that news story from Long Beach, CA.
Bthomp: I'm also in the DC area, so look for me next year in my 2002 Crown Vic (haven't picked a color yet, but am leaning towards light blue, silver, or gold).
you put that comment on the impala iv page just before i appologized , well i guess i deserved it for starting it any way, oh well no hard fealings , i didnt mean half the stuff i said anyway , except for the acelleration test, i was right about that ,even edmunds got 8.2 0 to 60.
Bthomp, I'm not neccesarily bad, just inexperienced. Most of my fishtailing was done in a T-Bird I had no idea how it handled. I've since learned, and now know what the car can and cannot do. (Which is not near as much as a FWD Pontiac). As far as the GM 3.8 VS. the Ford 4.6, I'll have the say that, while the 3800 is a great engine, My grandmother's Bonneville (no supercharger) does not have near the power the T-Bird cranks out. It has all the power the Bonneville needs (Okay, so that means mine has a bit too much), but I think the extra cylinders, more displacement, and pecular lack of pushrods give the 4.6 a slight advantage. (A supercharged 3.8 may be a who other story. I've never driven on of those).
(In a whining voice like my brother used to use) But he started it!:-)LOL. Yeah I posted my message on the other topic board right before McDills post 176. When I got back here, he had already posted...can you say Dohhh! I promise to behave now. rea98d: Sorry I said that comment about bad driver. When I got this beast I slipped a few times as well. Fortunately not into something but enough to teach me that RWD FWD cars handle differently.
Stanly County is about 50 miles east of Charlotte. I went to college about 30 miles south of Raleigh so we are practically neighbors, bthomp.
The notion that gangs may go around knocking off CV owners is very scary, and I am just the kind of pessimist that would plan for such a situation. Perhaps I should go for the black interior to hide the bloodstains, or just shoot anyone who comes within three feet of the car. I also like the idea of handcuffing friends in the backseat on long trips. Duct tape would add to the experience
In Stanly County we had a cop impersonator who would pull over only Volkswagens. I guess people have cars they just love and others that they just hate. Look at the postings here and you will see what I mean
Maybe I have a visual problem, but I think the CV is a very sharp looking car and I don't understand why CV owners are often apologetic about how the car looks. Nothing looks like a CV in a rearview mirror, especially now that every car company has a BMW or Mercedes lookalike in its lineup (including Ford). The Crown Vic has character, and I don't think you can say that about many rides on the great American highway. My 3-series looks like any other car on the road. It has been imitated to death and each cheap rendition takes a little of its soul away.
White, black, gold, spruce green, deep wedgewood blue, medium grey, silver frost they are all beautiful colors and the CV manages to carry them all off with aplomb. I have never seen an ugly CV, but I see many puke yellow Mercedes (yuck) and blood red BMWs (what are the Germans up to??) ..
If you want an old style car like my wife's '89 Chev Caprice buy GM. I have driven the new GM and find little to get excited about. It is no better than our old Caprice which after 90,000 miles handles as well or better than the new GM. And I don't worry about blowing head gaskets which seem to be a common problem with Ford/Lincoln cars(Two of my friends have had this major problem).So I bought a Le Sabre with plenty of extras that gives me 31+ MPG on trips along with a good ride, power, looks, and reliability. Its performance far excels GM's.
Your two friends with the apparent head gasket problems should be the ones to tell their own story here. Go share your joys at the Le Sabre group. With all the severe service cops and taxis put on the CVs, I sure don't see these guys pulled over to the side of the road with blown gaskets!!!
go to the Buick topic board and start something? First McCarther then this guy SP8. Both of them had no idea what they were talking about. They can't seem to get their facts straight. 200 vs 205 vs 215...headgaskets....I belong to many other forums and that is a first. SP8: list the facts. You're sorta like the person that complained about the ride being too harsh on the standard CV/GM model. Where are these people coming from that they arrive here so uneducated? What part about the handling of the CV/GM do they have gripes about? At least they might appear to be halfway intelligent if they would state specifics. IMHO the CV/GM gives you a lot of warning before it loses control. I find that an asset not a liability. The body on frame construction vice unibody construction allows a much higher spring/shock rate without making you loose a kidney. In general we seem to have a bunch of die hard General Motors lovers that can't seem to separate fact from fiction, or at least communicate very well. If you'all want to talk facts, lets talk...if you want to generalize everything go ahead, and get ignored. If you're stuck up on that GM vs FORD thing get a life. I've driven my share of cars too, and no one company gives me a check to promote their products (conflict of interest). No one said that the CV/GMs were the best handling, fastest, safest cars on the road. Maybe these people feel like they're missing something, and come over here to find out what makes us tick. Could be they need some stirring up in their otherwise boring life too, and trolling is the only way to achieve that end. Prodigalson: Welcome (former) neighbor! Life in Northern VA is pricey but OK. A lot less $$$ then NYC and not much crime compared to DC. I'm not into the cop impersonator stuff. I do not condone unauthorized people who pull people over with flashing lights and stuff. I have two functioning antennas (antennae) on my car. One is a CB and the other a scanner. After we had that jumper off the WW bridge I found my scanner to be an invaluable tool. I even changed my CB antenna this year when I found that VSP were back to using the same Antenna Systems antenna that I had. I just want to be left alone on the highway. These days people think that they can do just about anything just because they are in a car, sorta like trolling on the internet. They do things to people in other cars that they wouldn't do if that person was their neighbor. I do get a kick out of other people reactions to CVs...but I'm NOT sadistic and do not drive exactly 65mph in a 65mph zone. I just admire the eqmt for what it is, HD, willing and able, and tested!
In your world there is no room for others opinions and if they express them they must be your enemy. How much did it cost to become so stable in life? I mearly offered a suggestion to an alternative to the Grand Marquis and I am attacking it??? Good grief aren't we sensitive!! I still say drive both --- how dare I? Remember everyones opinion is just that, you must drive and make your own comparison. Don't be pursuaded by the militant car owners, whether they are Gran Marquis owners or Saturn owners. Think for yourself. I am now raising my shields for incoming divits. :-)
I may not like or agree with your opinions but I daily defend your right to have them...how's that for stability. As for a cost of feeling that way, that's what this country is about. If you are refering to the cost of not being open minded, that my opinion, and with that in mind you should think heavily on my first statement. I never said don't post here, just get your facts straight. You never did (and still haven't to this date)say what model GM/CV you tested, so how can anyone compare???? At least do us a favor next time and do that ok? I also think that if someone is looking for a car to buy, they would visit each cars forum as well as the FWD vs RWD topic so they approach this area with understanding. Have you done that? and have you brought away any understanding that you can share? Now that's helpful advice No? Certainly not the monster I appear to be. I'm comfortable enough with my choice, aren't you? I just can't get touchy feely about your emotional need to get attention on this topic, not programmed that way. I suggest that you start a topic called Buick LS vs GM/CV if you think it will raise enough responses. Bye
The trunk lid release answer is a little more complicated than I originally thought. What I need to know is if the car has the remote control for the power locks, and trunk. If you have that feature the power schmatic is a little different. Let me know.
Agree w/you. Do the P71 springs lower the car ride height? I have heard different stories about them. One article says yes, one no. Sorta like the change to the speedo using 3.55 gears vs 3.27.
I believe I've posted here before (a long time ago,) but I enjoy reading this topic....due to my undying affection for the Grand Marquis. My Dad's 1984 with 212,000 has over-proven the quality of these cars. The newer ones could only be better!
I would own one, if I couldn't have afforded my 2000 Lincoln LS (which I Love!) I've always liked the looks of the GM in Black with the spoke rims, p&h.
My point is....i enjoy reading your posts, until somebody posts about another model car being better. Someone recently went on the LS board and posted a link to a page that had statistics about the 1991 Taurus Trannys and the 3.8 Head Gasket Problem. The post was totally irrelevant, but a Chrysler fan (or employee) trying to sway opinions. Then he/she started making threats to those posters that bad mouthed him. REAL NICE, huh!
Frankly, I'm tired of people posting these kinds of things.....it really totally irrelevant and quite ignorant!
CBs and scanners are not allowed in Saudi Arabia, so it has been a long time since I have seen any in action. In fact, I had forgotten they even existed until I saw folks mentioning how helpful they can be in the car. This leads me to several questions which I hope someone out there in the free world can answer.
1. Considering the CV dash, where is the best place to mount a CB and scanner? Will I have to drill into the dash of a new car???
2. What about antennae? Can I mount them on the edge of the trunk so that holes don't have to be drilled? Is a bumper mount possible on a CV?
3. Can anyone recommend a specific CB, scanner and the accompanying antennae? I will probably be on the Interstate every chance I get, so I'd like something that can pick up signals from different states.
4. What are some features I should look for in a good CB, scanner and antenna? it seems Cobra SoundTrackers CBs and Uniden BearTracker scanners get universal praise, but there seems to be a wide selection of models to choose from.
5. Is it possible to find small antennae that do the job without drawing so much attention?
I mounted my CB and hand-free cellular phone cradle on a "Hump mount" holder that I bought from Radio Shack. The catalog number is RSU 12011870. No holes to drill. It fits on top of the transmission hump and has enough friction against the carpet to keep it from sliding around. It is made out of hefty steel, and it has numerous mounting holes that should allow you to bolt almost anything to it. Choose a CB that is not too tall, or else you might have trouble opening the ashtray. (As an aside, the only thing I really dislike about my CV is the design of the dashboard. The combo ashtray and cup holder belongs in a Yugo. Also the glove box is too small for a car of the CV's grandeur.)
Regarding antennas, what you want is either a "trunk-lip mount" or a glass mount-- in order to avoid drilling the car (with the resulting risk of body rust).
I chose a Wilson 5000 CB antenna, trunk lip mount. It's a big mother-- perhaps too big for your tastes. I had to cut the whip down in order to avoid annoying collisions with parking garage ceilings. I realize that I also compromised the function of the antenna somewhat, because the antenna base coil is optimized for the particular length of whip. Still, I find the performance more than adequate.
For a cell phone antenna, I recommend a Larsen Dual Band Glass mount, available from discountcell.com. This will work with both PCS phones (which are 1900 MHz digital) as well as traditional analog (800MHz).
As far as the CB unit, I'd go for cheap. In the heavily populated area I live in (Philadelphia/Jersey) I've found that only channel 19 is even occasionally worth tuning into. The rest of the channels are either totally empty, or else they are inhabited by schizophrenics in lithium withdrawl. Buying a fancy dual-sideband CB, in my opinion, is not worth the money. And why invite theives?
For the scanner, I would recommend getting a handheld unit that you can disconnect from the antenna and take with you from vehicle to vehicle.
Here's an idea for a really useful accessory for your CV. I just bought a device called a Garmin E-Map. It's a GPS navigation unit that is aimed at the automotive user. It's a completely self-contained, very portable unit(about the size of a Palm Pilot). You upload street-level detail maps from your PC (requires a CD ROM purchased from Garmin). The unit tells you exactly where you are and what street you are on. It will also pinpoint street addresses and intersections. You can see axactly where you are relative to your destination, and also see the streets you need to take to get there. However, it will not give you turn-by-turn directions. It comes in really handy in northern NJ, where there are zillions of tiny curving roads which change names as you go from township to township. The unit costs $300, and the CDROM is $100. A dashboard holder is $25. It is so compact that you can also take it hiking and biking.
is to the CB the most important component. The brand, K40, makes a lip mount secured by allen screws and has a bayonet fitting so you can remove the whip when you want to. I recommend you buy a standing wave meter & use it to fine tune your whip in the mount. Regarding brands of CB's, Cobra and Uniden have excellent histories.I've had a Uniden in our 17' boat for 15 years and it has taken a lot of pounding. Bottom line, spend more on the antenna than the radio. There have been several manufacturers that market a hand held, fits in you palm, tuner, mike,& speaker combination which is attached to the amplifier mounted in the trunk and connected by an umbilical cord running under your carpet. I have had one since 1980 in three different cars & it's still working just fine. It rests in a cup holder and out of the way. Have fun!
Thanks for all the advice about how to stock a CV for the 21st century! My next question was going to be about GPS navigation, but 99crownvic answered it. My goodness it's going to be hard to pry myself out of that thing once I start cruising down Information highways and Interstates simultaneously. Maybe I should rent advertising space on the body and just make a living driving from place to place!
Thanks for the info. I noticed that the 98+ CV's have a little droop in the back. Didn't realise why until I asked what was back there. I think the reason why they droop is because of all of the stuff they carry back there. I mean the trunk was FULL of stuff! Right up to the trunk lid. Without the self leveling feature the springs in the back would naturally compress down. I don't think it's intentional, the droop I mean. I think that the best CB radio I presently own is a Uniden Grant XL w/SSB. It's not the SSB features, but the excellent voice quality that I like the best. And the buttery smooth squelch. I could not fit this unit in my Havis shield console for bench seats. It was just a little too wide. I wound up with a Cobra 28 with weather alert and backlighting. This CB has the sound tracker circuit as well. In truth I turn this function off the majority of the time as it has a tendancy to blast the volume with strong transmitters. The weather alert is nice, and it has activated with a tornado warning here in DC area. Stay away from radio shack CBs unless you want to spend a lot of money on power line filters. I bought a SSB radio from them only to have it squeel so much from ignition noise. The Unidens, Cobras, and other radio manufacturers seem to have much better line noise isolation then the RS radios. I have my equipment mounted in a Havis shield hump mount that is bolted to a Gamber Johnson No holes bored mounting plate. This plate is attached to the seat mounting bolts. This combo works great. I made a center console that mounts between the seats on the bench seat section and holds a dual cup holder that I got, once again, from Gamber Johnson. This arrangement is great. Never had my coffee spill even driving in the district. I power my eqmt with a cable from the power dist block in the engine compartment, via a 75amp Circuit Breaker, to my center seat console. I have a fuse block there that splits the main 8 gauge cable into 6X20 amp circuits. I installed additional cigar outlets on the Havis shield console as well as one facing backward for the rear seats. While I was at it, I installed two 18 gauge cables for future driving lights. If anyone wants a schematic, let me know. It took me about a year to think it all out (measure twice, cut once). I got the Havis shield mount from Sirenet.com beacuse it works with front bench seats and looks very professional. The Gamber Johnson plate I got from Maryland Police Supply. After the tacky install I had in my old car, I really appreciate the ergonomics of this arrangement. I also took pictures, but I do not know how to post them here. Anyone help with that? Gamber Johnson also used to make a Palm Pilot mount that eliminated the need to use the pen stylus, and by adding a GPS module you could track/plan your route. Think of that as my next toy, after the up-up-graded suspension. I couldn't find anything in my servive manual about the steering gear differences between the P71 and P74.
I actually drilled holes in my trunk. Yeah, I'm crazy...but hear me out. I plan on having this car for many a year and I found that I had a greater problem with rust on the trunk lip mounts then the pair I'm using now. The little screws you use on the trunk lip mounts dig into the sheet metal after a while and start to rust. Along with the rust you loose some of your ground plane. I eventually went for a hefty Antena Systems CB antenna, and a Larson all band scanner ant. Both work great. I found that the on-glass mounts for both scanner and transmit functions never performed as well. I also had a few damaged by car washes. I hear good things about Wilsons and K40s. But my K40 antenna requires you to route the RG-58 in a 90 degree bend around the trunk lip. This resulted in damage to the coax cable after a few months. Something to think about. The magnetic mounts I have used eventually also caused damage to the paint due to high speed vibration. I'd rather permanently mount the antennas and worry about the "damage" later, then have degraded performance, rusting from the two lip mounting screws, or damage to the paint from the magnet. Just my preference.
Does anyone have any opinions on used Crown Victorias with police packages (Police Interceptors)? Are they a good value if someone wants a reliable, safe family car?
I bought one for that purpose a year ago and have been very happy with it. You have to shop carefully and take your time. They usually sell at auctions and there are good ones and bad ones. Often you can't test-drive them or have them checked by your mechanic before bidding. So it's a risk. It would be hard to start the process from out of the country, so if you want something quickly when you get here, it may not be for you. Also be aware that these are generally high-mileage, heavily used vehicles and you will save some money buying them, but you will also put some money and time into fixing them up. If you are the type of person that really desires a new-ish perfect-condition car, you may not be happy. Also the ride is very, very firm, similar to a Mustang.
It's a great way to go if you really want a PI for whatever reason, or you want something for the least money possible, but if you really want a regular CV, it may not be worth the extra trouble.
The scary thing is that a new CV will lose half its value in 5 years according to Intellichoice. For a loaded LX, that means its value would drop from $26,000 to $13,000 in 2004 (if you drive 14K miles a year and sell to a private buyer, not a dealer). That's a big hit, and even bigger if you try to trade it in. Ouch!
Has anyone done the math to figure out which year/mileage would give you a good buying price and not put you in danger of having to shell out major bucks on repairs and maintenance if you kept the car for 4 or 5 years? In other words, at what point should one expect the CV to start needing some costly repairs?
The big plus with PIs is that they are evidently more durable than civilian CVs and are much cheaper. Most PI owners I've spoken to say repair costs are small until you hit 200K miles. If this is true, then a 97 PI at $7,500 with less than 100K miles seems to be a great investment. I would like the new car smell, comfort, and leather seats, but if a 97 PI would get the job done and not attack my wallet with repair costs, it would be one of the best deals on 4 wheels. A $7,500 car is not going to depreciate that much, and at least it can be sold as a paperweight for a couple of thousand. That seems like a great value as long as the car doesn't need constant servicing and repairs. But this is where I need help--is the reputation PIs have true? Do they really just keep going, and going, and going? What about regular CVs?
BTW btroy, I'll be in Charlotte this summer. Did you buy your PI in NC?
If the PI has a reputation for durability and reliability, it's not relative to the civilian CV, it's relative to other police vehicles like the Caprice with the LT1 Corvette engine. I would expect the PI to deliver the same reliability over time as the CV. There are a few differences, but the vast majority of the thousands of pieces that make up each car are identical, including the entire engine. You should expect it to be little more than a used CV with a firm suspension. Reliability for these cars is rated "average" among all cars by Consumer Reports. I can't exactly define what average means in terms of repair costs or frequency, but it won't be as trouble-free as a Camry. You'll be in the shop occasionally, but hopefully not enough to drive you crazy.
Now if you want a higher mileage used car, you can get a PI at a pretty good price. Or you could get good value out of a late model CV off lease. Maybe 3 years old with 40,000 miles. You could buy an extended warranty if you want. You can also get a GM or maybe a CV from the Hertz rental car company at www.hertz.com
I personally have always driven older cars and I didn't want to shell out the money for a new CV or a late-model, low-mileage CV, so I went the cheap route and got a late-model, high-mileage PI. I'm real happy with my car, but it's been in the shop a few times. These are used cars. The agencies wouldn't get rid if them if they could go another 100K without any trouble.
It's a good alternative for people considering used cars. Especially if you had to choose between a '94 CV and a 97 PI for about the same price, for example. I'd recommend considering a carefully chosen 97 PI. Since you were recently talking about a new car, I don't think they are as comparable, and I hope you have realistic expectations.
Yes, I got mine here. NC has a State-surplus vehicle auction in Raleigh. They move a lot of CVs and PIs. The best ones there come from the State Highway Patrol. SHP also has a garage in Salsbury, near Charlotte, where they sometimes keep a few PIs that you can bid on or occasionally buy outright. Info here:
By the way, ask to see the service history of any PI you want to buy. It's common for them to have been in accidents, and you can probably tell by the service history.
Is there really a lot of money difference over 12 years between paying little for a discardable, high mileage, worn out, CV PI with all of the surprise repairs that will be necessary versus a new CV with the factory warranty, years of built in dependability offering confident driving? My newspaper lists brand new 00 CV for only 20 grand.
Are there any specific frame differences between the P71 and P74? Is the entire frame made of a thicker gauge steel or are there separate sub frame components that are thicker? Someone told me that you can get the PI frame from the P72 (taxi/fleet) car and then modify the remaining components to reflect the PI. That might be a better way to go if you want very rugged yet newer. Personally I like my leather seats in my P74. If I could find replacement bucket seats in leather I would opt for the taxi version, put in the buckets, install an X pipe dual exhaust. I've got to do a little research for my wifes next car...this may be the route.
I think going late model / high mileage PI was a good move. But there are so many variables to consider. Btroy, how expensive have the repairs been on your used PI? Would you estimate paying in the neighborhood of $3,000 in repairs for the first five years of ownership for your car?
I guess the most important thing is that you enjoy the car. If you go cheap and the car just turns you off, then the money you save is going to be of little value. You're going to have to face the same, horrible car every day. However, if you look at the car and smile, then the money you save is icing on the cake.
I think shelling out $20K or more on a new car and watching it lose big bucks in a hurry is painful. I am selling a BMW that I bought new in 1997 for about half its original value. That hurts, but I have enjoyed the car and it zooms. In the end, though, I wish I had gone used. I don't want to make the same mistake with the CV.
From an engineering perspective, since motors, like most things, usually have major problems either during initial use or way down the road, it would make sense to get a late model used car. For many folks, however, a used car is an aesthetically unacceptable option. My last two cars were new for that reason, but now I think I my tastes are changing.
Getting a cheaper car will allow me to change cars more often and break the monotony of sitting behind the same wheel year after year. When someone buys new, they usually justify it by saying they are going to keep it for many years. I kept my BMW 3 years and I wouldn't want to have it another year, even though it has been a perfect car. Three years and a car starts getting on your nerves, even when it’s a masterpiece of German engineering. Anyone else feel the same way?
Like I said, there are so many variables. Unless you really just have to have that virginal new car smell and spanking brand new everything, going used is the smart thing to do for most people. I learned the hard way.
BTW, thanks for the links, Btroy. This is why the Net is sooo cool!
Comments
An interesting note...I replaced my "cone of silence" air inlet with a section of shop vac (smooth section) and have noticed that my car seems to idle quicker....can't determine if that's actually true, or if I'm just hearing the idle more clearly now with the silencer removed.
As for the LS line, they just leave me with an old man feel. IMHO the styling of the LS needs much more work than the CV/GM but then again that's subjective (different tastes for different folks). When I see Buicks being used for the majority of taxi/police/emergency work, I will buy one. I drive my cars hard, and expect them to stand up to that sort of treatment. To my knowledge the LS wouldn't cut that requirement especially being a front driver. The LS "best seller" stats aren't something to look up to when you consider that the general population of America are so easily misguided (it is election year). After driving FWD cars for most of my driving experience, RWD is phat! Will not consider FWD again, even if I have to break that 30K boundary to get to it.
The worst part is that is is so intermittent. It has happened twice in the last 2 days, but prior to that, only 2 times in a year and a half. There is NO way I'm going to take it to a mechanic without getting a simple "could not duplicate" response.
The problem occurs only with a cold engine. I start the car and it will immediately stall. It will run only if I keep my foot on the gas pedal. If I let it idle, it will die. It's hard to drive this way, because when I come to a stop or even coast it will die unless I keep feeding it gas. The car will fully warm up and still exhibit the problem, but then suddenly it will go away after about 10 or 15 minutes of driving. The next time I use the car it seems just fine. It doesn't seem to be weather related and there are no other common circumstances I can find.
I suspected the temperature sending unit was incorrectly telling the computer that the car was already warmed up. The last time it was exhibiting the problem, I tried disconnecting both of the TSUs to see if it would idle, but it wouldn't.
As long as it's happening only twice a year, I wasn't that concerned, but as hard as this car is to steer without power steering, it could be a hazard if it stalled in an intersection or while pulling into traffic. It also happened once when my mother was moving my car. She couldn't even get it from the street into her driveway which is downhill. I wouldn't feel comfortable loaning this car to someone.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks for your help with my questions concerning window tinting on the CV. I have a lot to learn, but the Internet makes learning enjoyable. As I said, I have been away from the States for 10 years and have a lot to relearn about US "car culture." I am currently in a country where every little thing about your car sends certain messages, and if you don't know the local "car speak," then you miss half the fun of driving!
Now, I have some additional questions which I am sure will amuse most readers, but please remember that I am approaching US car speak as a virtual illiterate. I would like to learn a few things before I go back and buy a CV this summer!
1. I think white CVs are sharp, but it seems most police departments and state troopers use white CV's. Being a Southerner, I plan to install a CB and scanner (maybe even a shotgun rack!). So, a white CV with a CB antenna, I gather, may resemble an unmarked car. Is this a problem? Now if someone in South Chicago (where I will be using local libraries for research) sees my car parked on the street, would this cause resentment and perhaps make my car the target of vandalism? Where I live now the police are not regarded with contempt by anyone, and there are no unmarked cars. What about there???
2. How is a white CV with medium tinted windows? What about a black CV with medium tint? Do either of these combinations send the wrong message? I don't want to be pulled over and drug-searched every time I head for NC on the Interstate!
3. I live in the desert now and my car is hand washed (you won't believe this) 17 times a week. If I leave it for one day, it will look like an abandoned car! People here drive extremely badly, fender-benders are a fact of life, getting dinged once a month is the usual. For this reason, black and other dark colors aren't that popular. What about in the US? How often will I have to wash a black car so that it doesn't look dirty? Can a lighter car go much longer without a wash?
Sorry for the questions. I will post more from time to time. If anyone has any thoughts on the above, please let them be known! By the way, Btroy, I am from Stanly County--are you near there?
Prodigson: I haven't had any problems, love the CV (obvious by now). Go for it! I have CB and scanner antennas and have VERY few tailgaters.
Thanks for your help with my questions concerning window tinting on the CV. I have a lot to learn, but the Internet makes learning enjoyable. As I said, I have been away from the States for 10 years and have a lot to relearn about US "car culture." I am currently in a country where every little thing about your car sends certain messages, and if you don't know the local "car speak," then you miss half the fun of driving!
Now, I have some additional questions which I am sure will amuse most readers, but please remember that I am approaching US car speak as a virtual illiterate. I would like to learn a few things before I go back and buy a CV this summer!
1. I think white CVs are sharp, but it seems most police departments and state troopers use white CV's. Being a Southerner, I plan to install a CB and scanner (maybe even a shotgun rack!). So, a white CV with a CB antenna, I gather, may resemble an unmarked car. Is this a problem? Now if someone in South Chicago (where I will be using local libraries for research) sees my car parked on the street, would this cause resentment and perhaps make my car the target of vandalism? Where I live now the police are not regarded with contempt by anyone, and there are no unmarked cars. What about there???
2. How is a white CV with medium tinted windows? What about a black CV with medium tint? Do either of these combinations send the wrong message? I don't want to be pulled over and drug-searched every time I head for NC on the Interstate!
3. I live in the desert now and my car is hand washed (you won't believe this) 17 times a week. If I leave it for one day, it will look like an abandoned car! People here drive extremely badly, fender-benders are a fact of life, getting dinged once a month is the usual. For this reason, black and other dark colors aren't that popular. What about in the US? How often will I have to wash a black car so that it doesn't look dirty? Can a lighter car go much longer without a wash?
Sorry for the questions. I will post more from time to time. If anyone has any thoughts on the above, please let them be known! By the way, Btroy, I am from Stanly County--are you near there?
No tailgaters, huh. That sounds great. You know, the police here are not as sneaky as in the US, but whenever I see a CV in my rearview mirror I instinctively shudder. It seems resembling a cruiser has some advantages I didn't think of. I drive a wimpy 3 series here and have hit the dirt many times to make way for urban assault vehicles or idiots in Maximas. We are over 100 times more likely to die on the road here in Saudi Arabia than in America, though things are improving. They have radars on some bridges and if you are moving fast, a policeman will run (yes, ON FOOT) onto the road to stop you. This happened to me once and I just ignored him because I thought it was a beggar! I think I need to go through some serious debriefing before I am allowed to take to more civilized byways in the west.
So, bthomp, what do you do for kicks in you antennae-laden white CV? Do you sit on the shoulder of the road pointing a hair dryer at cars as they pass by? If you don't, you should. I would consider such a hobby as a public service! I notice that as things are improving here, they are getting worse in the States. We all owe it to our communities to get CVs and keep the maniacs in line!
Happy highways!
Johnbono the conversation was about two American brand cars, not the whole world. Look at the American manufatured cars and your eyes will see that except for the GM and it's Ford/Lincoln clones about 97% are front drive. And the vehicles you mentioned were WAY out of the Buick/GM discussion price wise. Of course you did not mention two very competitive front drivers from Saab and Audi and even the Volvo 70 series is front drive.
However, there is one possible downside to having people think you’re a cop. Over the weekend (Saturday night) two police officers in Long Beach, CA were shot while sitting in a marked cruiser in a gang area. A few days earlier (Thursday), a Long Beach cop shot a gang member during a confrontation, and the police now believe the shooting of the police officers in the car was an act of revenge on the part of a fellow gang member (one cop died, the other is in fair condition). Anyway, it sort of made me think. What if you’re driving down the road one day or sitting in your Crown Vic in a parking lot writing a check, and some lunatic decides that this is the day he’s going to take out a cop.
Even if you don’t have antennas or hidden lights on the rear deck (like a real unmarked car), someone could still think you’re a cop. In all likelihood, the chances of this ever happening are probably quite remote. I’m lucky enough to live in a relatively safe county (only 37 murders here last year with a population of 980,000 residents) but these days you just never know who is or is not carrying a gun. And there are an awful lot of people out there who hate the police.
Am I getting all bent out of shape over nothing? Are there any CV owners out there who’ve had other drivers behave towards them in a suspicious or even threatening way? Please don’t tell me the only solution is to buy a Chevy Impala. I guess I could live with a Grand Marquis, but I prefer the styling of the CV any day.
An ideal solution would be to interrupt the circuit with an additional "secret" switch (in series)that would have to be thrown in addition to the door-mounted button to activate the trunk release. Any ideas????
99crownvic: There are three ways to disable the trunk lid. 1) Change the power feed to the trunk release door switch from "always" hot to an "run" power source. This is what the police departments do. 2) Install a secret cutoff switch in series with the trunk release door switch. 3) Install a cylindrical key switch in the blank next to the trunk release door switch in the blank left by the fuel filler door blank and wire in series with door switch. Option 3) is the easiest to perform.
Prodigal: I drive through "the hood" every day after work, and have had no problems. I don't really think your chances are all that higher. Especially when you count in random acts like the CIA shootings a few years ago. They just happened to be at the wrong place at the wrong time. As for a RADAR oooppps hair dryers, that would be hilarious. I did have one of my co-workers ham it up on a trip by leaning forward like he was handcuffed in the rear seat. The looks we got! My car is a work horse though. I use it to haul building material, like concrete and mulch all the time. I will be getting a trailer this summer. I also just transported a big plastic swimming pool on the roof racks last weekend from NY to MD. The CV's are great all around cars.
POSSITIVE , I AGREE , IM TIRED OF READING REPORTS
ON THE IMPALA THAT HAVE NEGATIVE COMMENTS , WE THE
PEOPLE ,WHO BUY THE CARS ARE THE REAL CAR TESTERS ,NEVER THE LESS..." Sounds like a well educated, open minded person to me. Doesn't like hearing bad things about his own car, but feels free to romp around. He's a new member, I guess I should give him some slack though. I see he still hasn't mastered the caps lock key though:-)
As a side note, I have the 98CV electrical manual on hand today...so I will look into the trunk lid release wiring.
I think you will be fine with a white or black car with medium tint, as far as image. My state has laws about how dark it can legally be. If Illinois is the same, reputable installers will follow the legal limits. If you happen to get it tinted out of state for some reason, be aware of this (it could fail inspection).
My experience has been that being mistaken for a cop is only good. Also, the illusion is only momentary. You don't really fool anyone under a closer look. It just plays out like this most of the time: someone is planning to pull out in traffic. There's a gap in front of you. Normally they would cut you off, but on first glance a thought shoots through their head: is that a cop? They hesitate and miss their chance to cut you off. As you pass by they see it's a civilian car. They cut off the next guy.
If you are in a bad enough area that the locals actually harass the cops, they are going to be able to recognize the difference between a real cop car and a senior-citizen-mobile in about 1 second. They are going to see you don't have a partition in the back seat, no mountain of radio equipment, no permanent license plate, etc. Also, cop cars are almost never tinted, especially in the snow-belt.
As for color, I'd think any color will stay pretty clean most of the year with a wash every week or two, depending on how particular you are. Black would be the worst, white's ok, and light, non-white colors the best (metallic silver or gold) at hiding dirt.
Good luck.
Bthomp: I'm also in the DC area, so look for me next year in my 2002 Crown Vic (haven't picked a color yet, but am leaning towards light blue, silver, or gold).
Thanks again for your advice.
Ciao.
rea98d: Sorry I said that comment about bad driver. When I got this beast I slipped a few times as well. Fortunately not into something but enough to teach me that RWD FWD cars handle differently.
The notion that gangs may go around knocking off CV owners is very scary, and I am just the kind of pessimist that would plan for such a situation. Perhaps I should go for the black interior to hide the bloodstains, or just shoot anyone who comes within three feet of the car. I also like the idea of handcuffing friends in the backseat on long trips. Duct tape would add to the experience
In Stanly County we had a cop impersonator who would pull over only Volkswagens. I guess people have cars they just love and others that they just hate. Look at the postings here and you will see what I mean
Maybe I have a visual problem, but I think the CV is a very sharp looking car and I don't understand why CV owners are often apologetic about how the car looks. Nothing looks like a CV in a rearview mirror, especially now that every car company has a BMW or Mercedes lookalike in its lineup (including Ford). The Crown Vic has character, and I don't think you can say that about many rides on the great American highway. My 3-series looks like any other car on the road. It has been imitated to death and each cheap rendition takes a little of its soul away.
White, black, gold, spruce green, deep wedgewood blue, medium grey, silver frost they are all beautiful colors and the CV manages to carry them all off with aplomb. I have never seen an ugly CV, but I see many puke yellow Mercedes (yuck) and blood red BMWs (what are the Germans up to??) ..
Hmmm
Prodigalson: Welcome (former) neighbor! Life in Northern VA is pricey but OK. A lot less $$$ then NYC and not much crime compared to DC. I'm not into the cop impersonator stuff. I do not condone unauthorized people who pull people over with flashing lights and stuff. I have two functioning antennas (antennae) on my car. One is a CB and the other a scanner. After we had that jumper off the WW bridge I found my scanner to be an invaluable tool. I even changed my CB antenna this year when I found that VSP were back to using the same Antenna Systems antenna that I had. I just want to be left alone on the highway. These days people think that they can do just about anything just because they are in a car, sorta like trolling on the internet. They do things to people in other cars that they wouldn't do if that person was their neighbor. I do get a kick out of other people reactions to CVs...but I'm NOT sadistic and do not drive exactly 65mph in a 65mph zone. I just admire the eqmt for what it is, HD, willing and able, and tested!
I still say drive both --- how dare I? Remember everyones opinion is just that, you must drive and make your own comparison. Don't be pursuaded by the militant car owners, whether they are Gran Marquis owners or Saturn owners. Think for yourself. I am now raising my shields for incoming divits. :-)
The trunk lid release answer is a little more complicated than I originally thought. What I need to know is if the car has the remote control for the power locks, and trunk. If you have that feature the power schmatic is a little different. Let me know.
I would own one, if I couldn't have afforded my 2000 Lincoln LS (which I Love!) I've always liked the looks of the GM in Black with the spoke rims, p&h.
My point is....i enjoy reading your posts, until somebody posts about another model car being better. Someone recently went on the LS board and posted a link to a page that had statistics about the 1991 Taurus Trannys and the 3.8 Head Gasket Problem. The post was totally irrelevant, but a Chrysler fan (or employee) trying to sway opinions. Then he/she started making threats to those posters that bad mouthed him. REAL NICE, huh!
Frankly, I'm tired of people posting these kinds of things.....it really totally irrelevant and quite ignorant!
Sorry.....I just had to vent.
1. Considering the CV dash, where is the best place to mount a CB and scanner? Will I have to drill into the dash of a new car???
2. What about antennae? Can I mount them on the edge of the trunk so that holes don't have to be drilled? Is a bumper mount possible on a CV?
3. Can anyone recommend a specific CB, scanner and the accompanying antennae? I will probably be on the Interstate every chance I get, so I'd like something that can pick up signals from different states.
4. What are some features I should look for in a good CB, scanner and antenna? it seems Cobra SoundTrackers CBs and Uniden BearTracker scanners get universal praise, but there seems to be a wide selection of models to choose from.
5. Is it possible to find small antennae that do the job without drawing so much attention?
Thanks a zillion
I mounted my CB and hand-free cellular phone cradle on a "Hump mount" holder that I bought from Radio Shack. The catalog number is RSU 12011870. No holes to drill. It fits on top of the transmission hump and has enough friction against the carpet to keep it from sliding around. It is made out of hefty steel, and it has numerous mounting holes that should allow you to bolt almost anything to it. Choose a CB that is not too tall, or else you might have trouble opening the ashtray. (As an aside, the only thing I really dislike about my CV is the design of the dashboard. The combo ashtray and cup holder belongs in a Yugo. Also the glove box is too small for a car of the CV's grandeur.)
Regarding antennas, what you want is either a "trunk-lip mount" or a glass mount-- in order to avoid drilling the car (with the resulting risk of body rust).
I chose a Wilson 5000 CB antenna, trunk lip mount. It's a big mother-- perhaps too big for your tastes. I had to cut the whip down in order to avoid annoying collisions with parking garage ceilings. I realize that I also compromised the function of the antenna somewhat, because the antenna base coil is optimized for the particular length of whip. Still, I find the performance more than adequate.
For a cell phone antenna, I recommend a Larsen Dual Band Glass mount, available from discountcell.com. This will work with both PCS phones (which are 1900 MHz digital) as well as traditional analog (800MHz).
As far as the CB unit, I'd go for cheap. In the heavily populated area I live in (Philadelphia/Jersey) I've found that only channel 19 is even occasionally worth tuning into. The rest of the channels are either totally empty, or else they are inhabited by schizophrenics in lithium withdrawl. Buying a fancy dual-sideband CB, in my opinion, is not worth the money. And why invite theives?
For the scanner, I would recommend getting a handheld unit that you can disconnect from the antenna and take with you from vehicle to vehicle.
Here's an idea for a really useful accessory for your CV. I just bought a device called a Garmin E-Map. It's a GPS navigation unit that is aimed at the automotive user. It's a completely self-contained, very portable unit(about the size of a Palm Pilot). You upload street-level detail maps from your PC (requires a CD ROM purchased from Garmin). The unit tells you exactly where you are and what street you are on. It will also pinpoint street addresses and intersections. You can see axactly where you are relative to your destination, and also see the streets you need to take to get there. However, it will not give you turn-by-turn directions. It comes in really handy in northern NJ, where there are zillions of tiny curving roads which change names as you go from township to township. The unit costs $300, and the CDROM is $100. A dashboard holder is $25. It is so compact that you can also take it hiking and biking.
Happy highways!
I think that the best CB radio I presently own is a Uniden Grant XL w/SSB. It's not the SSB features, but the excellent voice quality that I like the best. And the buttery smooth squelch. I could not fit this unit in my Havis shield console for bench seats. It was just a little too wide. I wound up with a Cobra 28 with weather alert and backlighting. This CB has the sound tracker circuit as well. In truth I turn this function off the majority of the time as it has a tendancy to blast the volume with strong transmitters. The weather alert is nice, and it has activated with a tornado warning here in DC area. Stay away from radio shack CBs unless you want to spend a lot of money on power line filters. I bought a SSB radio from them only to have it squeel so much from ignition noise. The Unidens, Cobras, and other radio manufacturers seem to have much better line noise isolation then the RS radios. I have my equipment mounted in a Havis shield hump mount that is bolted to a Gamber Johnson No holes bored mounting plate. This plate is attached to the seat mounting bolts. This combo works great. I made a center console that mounts between the seats on the bench seat section and holds a dual cup holder that I got, once again, from Gamber Johnson. This arrangement is great. Never had my coffee spill even driving in the district. I power my eqmt with a cable from the power dist block in the engine compartment, via a 75amp Circuit Breaker, to my center seat console. I have a fuse block there that splits the main 8 gauge cable into 6X20 amp circuits. I installed additional cigar outlets on the Havis shield console as well as one facing backward for the rear seats. While I was at it, I installed two 18 gauge cables for future driving lights. If anyone wants a schematic, let me know. It took me about a year to think it all out (measure twice, cut once). I got the Havis shield mount from Sirenet.com beacuse it works with front bench seats and looks very professional. The Gamber Johnson plate I got from Maryland Police Supply. After the tacky install I had in my old car, I really appreciate the ergonomics of this arrangement. I also took pictures, but I do not know how to post them here. Anyone help with that? Gamber Johnson also used to make a Palm Pilot mount that eliminated the need to use the pen stylus, and by adding a GPS module you could track/plan your route. Think of that as my next toy, after the up-up-graded suspension. I couldn't find anything in my servive manual about the steering gear differences between the P71 and P74.
been very happy with it. You have to shop
carefully and take your time. They usually sell at
auctions and there are good ones and bad ones.
Often you can't test-drive them or have them
checked by your mechanic before bidding. So it's a
risk. It would be hard to start the process from
out of the country, so if you want something
quickly when you get here, it may not be for you.
Also be aware that these are generally
high-mileage, heavily used vehicles and you will
save some money buying them, but you will also put
some money and time into fixing them up. If you are the
type of person that really desires a new-ish
perfect-condition car, you may not be happy. Also
the ride is very, very firm, similar to a Mustang.
It's a great way to go if you really want a PI for
whatever reason, or you want something for the
least money possible, but if you really want a
regular CV, it may not be worth the extra trouble.
Has anyone done the math to figure out which year/mileage would give you a good buying price and not put you in danger of having to shell out major bucks on repairs and maintenance if you kept the car for 4 or 5 years? In other words, at what point should one expect the CV to start needing some costly repairs?
The big plus with PIs is that they are evidently more durable than civilian CVs and are much cheaper. Most PI owners I've spoken to say repair costs are small until you hit 200K miles. If this is true, then a 97 PI at $7,500 with less than 100K miles seems to be a great investment. I would like the new car smell, comfort, and leather seats, but if a 97 PI would get the job done and not attack my wallet with repair costs, it would be one of the best deals on 4 wheels. A $7,500 car is not going to depreciate that much, and at least it can be sold as a paperweight for a couple of thousand. That seems like a great value as long as the car doesn't need constant servicing and repairs. But this is where I need help--is the reputation PIs have true? Do they really just keep going, and going, and going? What about regular CVs?
BTW btroy, I'll be in Charlotte this summer. Did you buy your PI in NC?
Now if you want a higher mileage used car, you can get a PI at a pretty good price. Or you could get good value out of a late model CV off lease. Maybe 3 years old with 40,000 miles. You could buy an extended warranty if you want. You can also get a GM or maybe a CV from the Hertz rental car company at www.hertz.com
I personally have always driven older cars and I didn't want to shell out the money for a new CV or a late-model, low-mileage CV, so I went the cheap route and got a late-model, high-mileage PI. I'm real happy with my car, but it's been in the shop a few times. These are used cars. The agencies wouldn't get rid if them if they could go another 100K without any trouble.
It's a good alternative for people considering used cars. Especially if you had to choose between a '94 CV and a 97 PI for about the same price, for example. I'd recommend considering a carefully chosen 97 PI. Since you were recently talking about a new car, I don't think they are as comparable, and I hope you have realistic expectations.
Yes, I got mine here. NC has a State-surplus vehicle auction in Raleigh. They move a lot of CVs and PIs. The best ones there come from the State Highway Patrol. SHP also has a garage in Salsbury, near Charlotte, where they sometimes keep a few PIs that you can bid on or occasionally buy outright. Info here:
http://www.doa.state.nc.us/ssp/bidsnet.htm
I guess the most important thing is that you enjoy the car. If you go cheap and the car just turns you off, then the money you save is going to be of little value. You're going to have to face the same, horrible car every day. However, if you look at the car and smile, then the money you save is icing on the cake.
I think shelling out $20K or more on a new car and watching it lose big bucks in a hurry is painful. I am selling a BMW that I bought new in 1997 for about half its original value. That hurts, but I have enjoyed the car and it zooms. In the end, though, I wish I had gone used. I don't want to make the same mistake with the CV.
From an engineering perspective, since motors, like most things, usually have major problems either during initial use or way down the road, it would make sense to get a late model used car. For many folks, however, a used car is an aesthetically unacceptable option. My last two cars were new for that reason, but now I think I my tastes are changing.
Getting a cheaper car will allow me to change cars more often and break the monotony of sitting behind the same wheel year after year. When someone buys new, they usually justify it by saying they are going to keep it for many years. I kept my BMW 3 years and I wouldn't want to have it another year, even though it has been a perfect car. Three years and a car starts getting on your nerves, even when it’s a masterpiece of German engineering. Anyone else feel the same way?
Like I said, there are so many variables. Unless you really just have to have that virginal new car smell and spanking brand new everything, going used is the smart thing to do for most people. I learned the hard way.
BTW, thanks for the links, Btroy. This is why the Net is sooo cool!