Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

white64

Thanks for the info on the code tester. I bought one at WalMart and read the codes. It appears to be the EGR valve.

bthomp

No problemo
EGR valve = Common problem. Check out
http://www.blueovalnews.com/ubb/ubbhtml/Forum50/HTML/000179.html
There was an EGR question/answer here.

andor1

Does anyone have an idea if the current 2.9 interest rate for 48 months might be extended after July 5th.I was hoping I could buy a new GM or CV in August or preferably September which would make it a lot easier for me. The other problem is I'm still hung up between one vs the other. I'm also assuming that I will buy one with traction control. Do you think that may be a problem if I wait until then. I'd appreciate your comments.

mcdill

This is mcdill, i said that if i ever came back it would be positive , well it is , i have never truthfully hated the crown vics , although my favorites are 98 to present , i actually like them alot , even though i have an impala , i love it very much , although being a chevy person the crown vic is the only ford i like , the 4.6 is a pretty good motor , i dont know a whole "lot" about them, my main area is the chevy 350 and the buick 3.8, my favorite color of crown vic is spruce green and medium grey, i also have great intrest in the police int. if i could i would go order me a crown vic right now no questions , but i havent got that much $$$$$ , just dont think of me as a crown vic hater, because i dont ,great cars , take it easy . thanks ----------------mattmcdill

bthomp

I really love the older Impalas. I just wish I had enough money to get one of the 95-96 series Impala SS and keep my 98 CV. Haven't test drove the new Impalas. They are distinctive and I am seeing more and more of them. Nice looking cars in my opinion but a lot of car critics have weird views on it....whatever. Enjoy your ride!

emmanuelle

I recently saw a specs list that states that the standard engine for 2001 will produce 225HP. Can anyone confirm or refute this claim?
Also, I am considering purchasing a new CV with the PH package, but am leary of the reduced mileage. Is there any chance of getting the package with the standard rear? If not, is replacement with the standard rear a foolish thought?

99crownvic

Hi Bthomp,
I've been checking this forum intermittently and staying quiet recently. But your discussion of gearing got me thinking. I switched my 99 from the P&H 3.27 ratio to a 3.73, and added a Superchip. 0-60 time improved from about 9.5 to 8.2 or so. Gas mileage dropped from 17C/22H to 15C/19H.

When I still had the stock 3.27, I noticed I could pretty consistently spin the tires off the line (punching the accelerator only-- no brake torquing). However, with the 3.73 and Superchip (which were installed simultaneously, it is actually _less_ prone to light up the tires, despite the improved 0-60. Granted, I'm _not_ a habitual smoky burnout fan (an expensive puerile indulgence). But I am curious what might have changed.

A theory: does this have something to do with the fact that the torque converter spins up sooner now, and I no longer get as much of the torque-multiplication effect of the impeller pumping against a stalled turbine.

Or perhaps my Superchip (which my mechanic told me was programmed to take advantage of the 3.73) deliberately cuts the torque of a full-throttle launch from a dead stop precisely in order to avoid a cloud of rubber smoke. Such reasoning, if it is true, could be consistent with the goal of a better and more driveable 0-60 time, but at the cost of losing the entertainment of wild tire burnouts.

Your thoughts?

kinley

If the CV or GM comes with a 3.27 rear end ratio, what size smaller diameter tire would equal a 3.73 without overweighting the tires?

billbill1

Hi Gang, I'm new to this forum which I think is great. Question - Does anyone know when the 2001 models will be delivered to showrooms. Also, how soon would consumers be able to order the 2001 for delivery?

gmarquis

There's a way of checking the EEC error codes using the check engine light itself, and no special tools for some computers. Here's one link:
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html
This link has another link to a page with an error code translator, but I've seen others that are easier to use with a table of all of the codes.

jeffreyw1

Hi billbill1. Welcome to the forum. I had my dealer order me a 2001 Chevrolet Impala LS on May the 23rd. The dealer said delivery would be around August the 10th of this year. I was suprised that I could get them to order my car so early without any information for the new car year. The dealer only could order based on the 2000 year model cars though. It didn't matter to me because I was wanting to order a 2000 model, but I just missed the deadline. Oh well, I can't wait to get my first new car.

billbill1

Thanks Jeff for the info. I just can't seem to get satisfied with what is left on the dealer lots of the 2000's. All have somthing cosmetically wrong with them. Bad time of the year I guess to get satisfied with what you want. I'll keep searching for another week or so then make a dicision.

cvdude2

Hi, everyone. I have found the new model year changes for the Crown Vic. I got them from Ford's New Catalog.

Exterior Changes:
1. Arizona Beige and Chestnut Clear Coat have been added.
2. Harvest Gold CC has been deleted
3. 16" Lace Spoke Cast Aluminum Wheel added to LX Comfort Plus Group

Interior Changes:
1. Oxford white, Light Graphite deleted
2. Digital clock deleted from instrument panel and moved to radio display
3. No dim daytime dash lights
4. New front door map pockets

Functional Changes:
1. New available adjustable pedals, move up to 3 inches toward driver for improved comfort
2. Traction control switch moved to instrument panel for easier access
3. Headlamp-on switch incorporated into windshield wiper control
4. New horn system
5. New power mirror switch
6. New standard Personal Safety System includes crash severity sensor, safety belt pretensioners, dual stage air bags and seat position sensors

POWERTRAIN CHANGES (THE BEST PART)!!!!
Power improved 4.6L 2V engine, horsepower improves from 200 to 225 .

andor1

You might be better off trying to buy a new 2000 CV. It might cost you 3-4k more but you will have a new car with full warranty.Over 4 years it would problably cost about $60/month more.Personally, I think 18k is too much for a car that is less than 2 years old.

dawies

Thanks for the advice, andor1. Now I have my eye on a 26,000 mi 1997 CV std that was a commercial vehicle. Price is about $14,700. I will try to get them down some. I am getting it checked with a mechanic. Is the price too high?

Dave

bthomp

Been on travel recently. Just got around to reading your post concerning the 3.75 vs 3.27. That's very interesting. I think you are right about the torque stall speed. The chip may have also programmed the transmission to slip at lower speeds and to firm up the shifts at Wide Open Throttle WOT. That would reduce the imedediate jolt at start-up and decrease your 0-60 times as well along with the 3.73. How has your speedo taken the change?

ossiebentworth

Radarwalker I had the same problem with an older model a few years back. Turned out to be a hole in the floor under the carpet.

99crownvic

Great to hear from you. The speedometer is still on the mark. Well, actually, prety close. It reads 70 MPH when the actual speed is 68.5 MPH. I've checked that by timing against mile markers-- and even using a GPS receiver. Makes me wonder whether the speedo is running off a wheel speed sensor (perhaps the ABS), rather than off the driveshaft.

mhlii

I have been following the CV for a couple of years, and Ford wonders why sales are slipping! Well lets see, on a 2000 CV it is missing the following: Heated mirrors, Seat memory, A key hole on the trunk button to lock it, Lighted key holes, A key hole on the passenger door for that matter, Heated windshield, A locking fuel door, Lighters, Power antenna (you get a windshield antenna, like back in the 70's, that didn't work then and still doesn't), Trans & P.S. coolers when the P&H package is ordered, Cornoring lights, Date in with the clock, JBL audio system, Cd changer, and Voice activated Cell Phone! All these items gone, but you get a nifty compass in the rear view mirror for all that! Now they want to put the clock into the radio! That has been a Ford trademark keeping the clock seprate from the radio. I know someone who bought one and they were so mad that they were going to write Ford a letter and said "I should have kept my 95." Whats the deal here, do they like to throw away there busneiss????? Just wondering??????

bthomp

Yup, some of those items are missing. The biggest one was the change between 97 to 98 with the heated mirrors. The heated window you can keep though. One crack and you're out of some serious $$$. The Taurus line discontinued that as well. The fuel door doesn't need to be locked because they designed the fuel entry to be siphon resistant. I'll have to check on the passanger side key hole. I alsways use my keyless entry anyway. Never had problems with the radio reception. People can break off power antennas for $$$ again. I really miss the cornering lamps. They offered them on the older CV LX and I had them on my Taurus LX as well. Wish they would bring them back! I have the P+H so I have the T and S coolers. It's a pity, I agree, that they are stripping these cars back. The SUV market has become their cash cow so they can. Hang in there though. Just saw an article that is talking about making the SUVs more crumpable in collisions....so all of those people who buy them for their "ruggedness" may soon find they are spending lots of money fixing or replacing their unibody "SUV".

iusecad

I live in northern Minnesota and can't ever recall needing heated mirrors... is it so they don't shiver when they get cold and make every thing blurry?

mhlii

I don't have a garage so here in Pa. the heated windshield has been a god sent with all the ice storms we seem to have anymore, and same with the heated mirrors. I don't know how many times that I have come out to ice on everything. As far as the antenna goes I also have a 96 continental with that windshield antenna, and I live 13 miles from the "big" antennas form the radio stations and I can sit in my driveway and watch the stereo light flash on and off. But in my CV with a good old fashoned power antenna I don't have these problems. As far as breakage, when you turn the car off the antenna lowers so it's kinda vandle proof! I am an auto mech., and we have the account for the local police dept. and all the 2000 CV's do not have coolers on them, but the older ones do! How long do they expect a police Interceptor to last with no external coolers????? But I guess that it doesn't matter anyway, no matter what you do they will never bring anything back anyway! You might as well buy a new Focus, and save your money, other than the size they are equipped about the same.. They are going to have to add some big stuff before I will buy a new one. I'll just hold onto the one I have!

andor1

I don't know if 14,700 is a good deal or not. It all depends how much you like the car.In any case, I would really negotiate the best deal I could. Just as a matter of reference, my cousin just bought a '99 program Taurus fully loaded for $13,400 with only 9K miles on it from a local dealership. I thought that was a good deal, so maybe the dealers are starting to get loaded up again on used cars and the prices will drop a bit more. good luck on whatever you decide.

bthomp

You're kiddin me right???!!! The 2000PIs don't have tranny coolers? RU sure? The 98's have a combination power steering/tranny cooler that is mounted between the radiator and the AC condensor. From my undersatnding the P+H CV does have them. The heated mirrors are useful for cold mornings when their is a slight frost. I just let my car idle for about 10 minutes to clear the windshield. I don't think there is another car company offering the electric heated windshields...maybe I'm wrong???

syjet

I was reading my manual for my 97LS Grand Mar and it have two different service schedules for it. Normal and Severe. I live near Boston where it gets pretty cold in the winter and warm in the summer, plus I do a fair amount of city driving so I choice the Severe service schedule. I have done everything in the manual up to this point except change the rear diff fliud. I never new it needed to be changed. I have about 25k miles and it has never been changed. Should I drain and replace with new fluid and run it for a hundred miles or so to clean it out then drain it again and refill with synthetic rear diff fluid? Someone please help me.

Jim

mhlii

I have a 1989 CV and I have changed the rear gear oil every 25k since new. It now has 130k and all is well! It will help the life of the rear, as with any oil, it will wear out. The rear can get quite hot at times. Well it won't hurt it by anymeans! As far as Synthetic goes I don't know, but I have heard that once you use it you have to keep using it to be effective. Hope that this helps!!

Mike

mhlii

I am pretty sure, but I will double check it. We have a 2000PI coming in for service today (fri). I will let you know.

Mike

bthomp

I'm getting curious why they would delete such an option from a severe duty car.

tbear503

Maybe the lack of some of the deleted items is why they still sell'em cheaper than Camry's, Accord's etc. A $4 can of de-icer is whole lot less expensive

syjet

When you changed your rear diff did you siphon it out or remove the back cover? Thanks

Jim

mhlii

I removed the rear cover. You get more of the old fluid out, and then you can inspect how it looks in there. Then just buy gasket maker and put the cover back on. It also insures that you always have a new gasket back there every so often, so you don't have to worry about it leaking. Just remember if you do remove the cover you must make sure that you get all the surface clean on the cover! You must make sure that you get all the old gasket off so that the new on will seat good and not leak. Hope this helps you!!

Mike

syjet

How often do you recommend changing the rear diff fluid? Should I go with conventional or synthetic gear oil? About how much fluid does it take. I know, it was actually three questions. Thanks again.

Jim

mhlii

Ok... Well, most car manuals will tell you to change the diff. fluid every 100k. I however think that is kinda long! I am a nut with pervenative mant. so I do it every 25k. My advice to you would be to do it every 50k, because thats a fair time for the oil life. I would not go over 50k though. At the least, if you do it sooner it can only help it! My was done every 25k and now with well over 125k everything is just fine, no noises nothing. It is really up to you, just wouldn't go over 50k. As far as the Qty. I think that it is 5 pints. Conventional or Synthetic, that is a good question. I used Coventional in mine and it's fine. At my shop thats what we stock, however we have had customes come in and request Synthetic. My boss who has been doing this for over 35 years thinks that Conventional is better. I would ask around more though. I wish that I could give you more help with that but thats all I can tell you. Just remember that once you use Synthetic oil you have to keep using it all the time to be affective! Finally..... One helpful hint: If you do decide to remove the cover, first make sure that the fill plug is not stuck or seized!!! Because if it is and you remove the cover first without checking it you could have drained all the oil and have no way to refill it, thus not being able to drive the car!!! Hope this helps you some...........

Mike

mhlii

Maybe... you could be right.... But a CV is suposed to be a luxury car. A Toyota Camry is NOT! If you get rid of the stuff that makes a luxury car luxury, what will be the insentive to buy it over a nother modle. You might as well by a cheaper car. The hole idea is that a luxury car will have stuff that other cars don't have or have as optional when the luxury car has them as standard equipment. The smart thing to do if they want to save money, would be to make some of the standard items optional, then the people who want them could still get them and the people who don't won't. I just think that it is a bad move! Why would I want to buy a new one for lots of money and give up a bunch stuff! I will keep my older CV. If I buy a newer car I would still expect it to have the same equipment as my older one, plus maybe 1 or 2 new things. No one wants to spend alot of money for something and have less that they had before!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bthomp

mhlii: My mechanic recommended a rear diff change at 50k. I was looking all over the service manual for frequency of change and found nothing. I plan to change my engine oil, tranny, and diff right after I tow my trailer in July for vacation. Hopefully cover all bases:-) They should stop calling the CV/GM a luxery car. Things like a GPS/cell phone navigation system, or similar "on star" system are in order. Hell even toady Le Sabres get it offered as an option...and you have enough room in these cars to mount it all.

ggadeken

Have less 4000 miles. Has a loud rumble(caused by air movement) in center of dash. Any closure speed of 65 miles an hour causes the rumble. If I drive into a 15 mile an hour head wind, then rumble starts at 50 miles an hour. Also heavy morning or wet air causes the rumble to start at lower speeds. Have changed all temp & shutter controls with no help. Can't get the auto into garage before saturday. Am sure they will appreciate any ideas.

stevem326

Later this year I'll be buying (or leasing) a new Crown Victoria. My car for the last 6 years has been a Mazda Protege. The biggest car I've ever owned was a Honda Accord (if you can even call that big). I'm going to rent a Crown Vic or Grand Marquis in a few weeks and drive it around town, on the highway, and wherever I can for an entire weekend to make sure I really want a car this size. In the meantime, does anyone have any tips for getting used to the ride in a Crown Vic? Going from a nimble, FWD, 2400 pound car to a less nimble, RWD, 4000 pound car might take some getting used to. But, in the interest of safety and comfort, I think the Crown Vic is the car for me. By the way, I am getting the P&H package and the traction control. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have to offer.

johnbono

First off, the ride in a P&H CV is significantly stiffer than that in the rental fleets. Secondly, you may be *VERY* surprised at how well the CV handles. Compared to some of the FWD cars I've driven, the CV is much better than one would think. I wouldn't call it something suitable for autocrossing, but when compared to a camry or taurus or other comparable cars I've driven, the CV can more than definitely hold its own in the twisties.

mhlii

Ok, you got me! The 2000pi's do have a combo cooler! On the older ones it was right out in front of everything. But apon further inspection I did find a cooler sandwiched between the rad. and a/c condenser! Never thought to look there! When I did an oil change on one I looked at the place where they were on the 97's and I did not see them! So I just assumed it was just another item attacked by the bean counter!
Mike

stevem326

Thanks for your advice. I know that Ford has made a number of improvements with the CV to make it handle a lot better and give it less of a big car floating/wandering feel. This will be like moving up to a luxury car for me, so I'm really looking forward to it. Thanks again.

bthomp

Enjoy your ride. The P+H will definitly feel different from a rental. RWD is a lot more fun to drive. Important things to remember. Slower going into a turn, power out. In slick weather be aware of the 285ft/lbs of torque on the rear wheels. Long wheel base lets this car give you lots of warning if you do anything wrong. Not like FWD for that reason. Strong, smooth, silent.
Can carry a tremendous amount of stuff, especially with P+H.

bthomp

Glad to hear we didn't loose another option to the bean counters. You had me really worried! I wish they would dispell the rumor that the 2002 CV will be fleet only!

dmers

We just purchased a 2000 GM LS w/ Ultimate pkg, moonroof and 12 CD changer (third party) and we are looking forward to using this car for 6 years. (Our first new one)
We traded our 94 GM LS w/ about 130K and had little problems. We bought it as a program car. I am a maintanence nut and changed Eng oil every 2-3K and Air Filters 10K, Trans Fluid 35K, etc.
Now, the Operators Manual says 5K w/ 5W/30 year round oil, 30K for Air filters, 100K for Rear oil, and Plugs at 100K. My question: Can Ford be believed for 150K miles of trouble free driving?

dmers

stevem326

Thanks for your advice. I've read a lot of your posts on this forum, and I can tell that you really know what you're talking about when it comes to Crown Vics. Can't wait to get behind the wheel of my new CV...take care out there.

frdfan

This is in response to message #348 from ggadeken:
I too had a loud "buzz" or sort of "rumble" in the dash of my 2000 CV in a headwind and at freeway speed. I took the car to an auto glass shop (I was on a business trip and away from my dealer) thinking it was the windshield seal, WRONG! It was simply the plastic cowl-cover which is screwed on sort of underneath where the windshield wipers park and is in direct contact with the lower part of the windshield. This was just ever so slightly loose and allowed a strong wind to get under it thus causing a very loud noise in the dash. He tightened everything up and no noise since! Hope yours can be fixed in the same manner...JW

wnichols

The mechanic at the dealer asked me yesterday (at 18K service) if my car had been underwater. NOT!

The reason is that there was rust present on fasteners and components. I have a 99 GM purchased in Sept. of '98.

Should there be so much noticeable rust this early? I am concerned about longevity as I plan to keep the car for 10 - 15 years. I am happy with the car otherwise.

dawies

I finally bought my CV. I found another ad by the same dealer on the Internet. It listed the same VIN but not the dealer name, and the car was listed for $13,999, less than the $14,700 the dealer had offered me over the telephone. So I took that in and the dealer seemed nonplussed but agreed.

Then I had the car inspected by an independent mechanic who found alternator problems and some other stuff, minor but needing repair. The dealer told me he would knock off $300 for me to get the repairs and we had a deal. That seems like an OK price for a car with 26K miles. Thanks, Internet!

Dave

swong1

Evening Wnichols! I too had this concern when I accepted delivery of my '99 CV. Ford appears to have gotten real cheap and no longer powder coats many of the suspension parts. Power steering gearbox, tie rods, idler arms are all rusting terribly on my ride and it will get worse since NYC uses a horrible amount of salt during the harsh winters. I've tried coating the parts with motor oil or grease but nothing seems to work. If you think this is bad wait until you build up some mileage on your CV....a year after I purchased my new CV the whole body is nothing but a bucket of groans, rattles, and horrible noises whenever I traverse less than smooth roads. Not very happy with body integrity but the good news is I've driven it going on 2 years now and it hasn't been in the shop yet...I do my own maintenence however!

Hacksaw

My 1998 CV was delivered ( < 7 miles on it ) with the above mentioned parts totally "rust colored". I thought it was strange, but not something worth worrying about.

70,000 miles later I feel the same way. Those parts were obviously pre-rusted at the factory. The rusting was too consistent and evenly done to be the result of moisture-- the rust coating looks almost like it was brushed after it was done.

In any event, rust is not necessary a bad thing. If your suspension bars are flaking away, you've got problems. But these pieces are completely solid and as strong as they day they were put in. They have an outer coating of rust, not unlike a railroad track or a bridge support.

Can't speak for the squeaks and groans, however. Unless I'm driving over some serious holes, mine is pretty quiet (except for these new cheapie brakes I bought). I do a lot of driving in Philly, and our roads are very bad too. Do you have all the recommended locations greased?

wnichols

I asked the mech. to do oil/filter and lube the chassis - which I have done on my older cars. I was told that the 99 GM is sealed; no lube needed.

I was also hit again by the guy's argument thinking it had been flooded or underwater. He did squirt liquid lube on other steering components in an attempt to eliminate the squeaks. My car DID have the noticeably rust colored components from the factory, but now many more of the metal items under the hood are showing rust. The car is outside year round here in MN because I have no garage.

Guess I'll have to wait and see how the car holds up. My 27yo. Mustang is still rolling along, but it is stored for the winter.

On a separate note, I also sent a note to the brass at Mercury with suggestions of about 20 items which I thought should be standard or optional on the GM. It didn't occur yet, but maybe if more of you try sending this feedback we'll get results.