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"Heavy-Duty Frame
Extra reinforcements in the frame on the police vehicle are designed to strengthen structural members so that they can withstand severe duty use."
This doesn't really get into engineering specifics. I don't know for sure, but my guess is that they use the same P74 frame and weld on a few bars diagonally between frame members here and there. Something similar to strut tower braces, only there is nothing visible by opening the hood. They probably want to create the impression that there is a totally unique frame, but I doubt it. If we could get the details, I bet you could upgrade a P74 frame to a P71 frame. If you look at the weight of a P71 vehicle vs. a P74, it is lighter, so I doubt the entire frame is made of thicker steel.
Kinley, I agree. If you can get a new CV for 20G, how can you find a much better value than that?
Prodigal, yeah that sounds like a good estimate. I dropped about 2G so far and I think (hope) I'm done for a good while. Never burned a drop of oil until last oil change, then suddenly started going down on the stick. Hopefully it's just a problem with the drain plug or something like that. If so, I think I'm in for a few smooth years.
Also they may feel that upping displacement may please a few customers, but the typical CV customer wouldn't benefit, and might be swayed to buying an Avalon or Impala because the price would go up and the mileage would go down. It's not like this car is marketed as a hot-rod (even though some of us would like it to be). Just look at the people appearing in the advertising photographs. They represent the target market.
Now they could probably go with a different engine in the PI and exempt those from the CAFE numbers, but there are cost benefits to having a uniform production run. I think there are plans in the works to provide a stronger engine for cops in a year or two. The 4.6 DOHC?
For everyone else there's always the upcoming Marauder.
I've noticed that the shift between 3rd & 4th in my 2000 CV behaves differently depending upon my rate of acceleration. Slow acceleration feels normal. Moderate acceleration can sometimes produce an odd feel when shifting from 3rd to 4th, where it begins to go into 4th but "changes its mind" and goes back to 3rd temporarily. I'm using a steady foot on the pedal during this time. A few seconds later it shifts into 4th and stays there. I wonder if that's the thump you're talking about. Other times the shift from 3rd to 4th is gradual - almost too gradual. Anybody else experience this?
I noticed that the shift between 3rd & 4th happens on my GM as you described in your post. I guess this is a combination of the cars computer telling when to shift and the rate of acceleration.
invoice x 1.01 [i.e. 1% above invoice]+ $655 (delivery) - $1,500 (rebate)
Has anyone who bought a 2000 CV recently gotten a better deal than this? How??
Still, I think the Crown Base is an excellent buy at this price, and according to my math, fully loaded it would not break $22k. And to think 3 months ago I was thinking seriously of getting a Camry! I shudder to think of how I would have reacted if I had spent $27 on a Camry and found out afterwards that I could have gotten a CV and still had money left over to pay for SEVEN YEARS OF GAS!!!! I would have gone postal at the Toyota dealership. Why is the CV such a well-kept secret?
An observation about the new vs. used issue: after compiling more than 10 pages of price quotes for slightly to heavily used CVs, I have come to the conclusion that we the customers get burned both ways. I have seen used 99 Base CVs with almost 20K miles and NO OPTIONS listed at $20,000 or MORE! So much for the theory that the original owner absorbed the depreciation--sure he did (when he sold it to the dealer), but so will the next guy (when he buys it from the dealer). A $21.5 fully loaded 2000 CV Base is hard to beat unless you're buying a used car directly from a private seller.
I have seen some real deals on the Internet for 99s and 98s ($12-15K), but when I inquire, I am invariably given the line "Oh, that car is no longer available at our However, we do have a few retired rentals for $19,999 " And, of course, they are all either red or green--two colors that always get left on the lot for some reason.
I congratulate all of those in this forum who were wise enough to practically steal a new CV, and I hope that I too will be brave enough to stare down the fear of initial depreciation and show myself some appreciation!
I'm stuck with a 98 Bonneville rental for the next week and oh how I miss my CV. I haven't driven the new 2000 Bonny, but I am so glad I didn't buy the 98 model. The gas mileage is better, but just about everything else is much worse.
I can't wait to get my CV back. I bought it in the beginning of 1998, and to this day it's a purchase I feel 100% comfortable with. I got it at invoice, which I feel was more than fair, and it's been worth every penny since.
I've bought a lot of things in my life only to look back and think "damn, I overpaid" or second guess myself into thinking something else would have been better-- not so with the CV. 62,000 miles over 2 years and ownership has been complteley pleasant with no regrets or second thoughts.
Sure, the CV has some shortcomings. But you won't touch anything like it for less than $40k. I just can't say enough good things about this car.
than the rest of my instruments, but not enough to
bother me. Maybe that's because I prefer my panel
to be dimmed down about half way. You might try
dimming your panel a bit and see if that makes it
look more evenly lighted. Most people leave the
panel at full-brightness, but I think lowering it a bit doesn't hurt its visibility and helps
preserve my night-vision.
I'd have to agree with those of you that said that buying one of these cars new is a great value. The new ones are so cheap (relatively) that it almost doesn't make sense to buy used. If you make any reasonable assumption on the number of miles the car will last and divide that into the purchase price, your lowest cost per remaining mile is probably in a new car. Plus you get a long warranty, new car perfection, several malfunction-free years, etc.
BTW, I rented a Chevy Cavalier this weekend, and wow, what a difference. I felt like I was scooting around in a child's toy. Not that a Cavalier is even close to being a comparable vehicle, but there was a time not long ago when I owned little cars like that and would have been happy with a Cavalier. Now I am permanently spoiled and could never go back to the toy cars.
Are there any considerations I need to think about when making a choice?
Price?
Engine?
Service?
Warranty?
Reliability?
Any help / commnets / personal war stories are appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric Kool
eric.kool@home.com
Regards,
Eric
I also contacted Enterprise Rent a Car and they have a 2000 GM GS with 22,000 miles at a non-negotiable price of $17,000. Has anyone ever purchased a car from Enterprise? Is this a better deal than the 1997? Or should I wait and see if I can get a 2000 GM from a dealer in September when the 20001's come in? Will the 2000's go down much? I can't go higher than $17K and I was offered only $100 for my car on trade-in.
Is there really a big difference in performance between the GS and LS? All responses will be greatly appreciated.
Question 1: A dealer told me that the $1,500 rebate on CVs will probably still be in effect this summer, but that he didn't know if the 2001 model would be rebated when it first comes out. Does anyone know if new model CVs are usually rebated when they first hit the showrooms?
Question 2: Two Internet dealers have offered me the 2000 CV base with all the options at invoice less the $1,500 invoice. This seems to be a fair offer. Would it be risky to pass this up and wait for the 2001 CV which may be rebateless?
And question 3: If I should have to order either car, how long does it usually take for the car to show up and do dealers usually ask for some up-front money?
ANY thoughts on this suject would be greatly appreciated!
At least it was cheaper than an airline ticket, and I got to see the Mississippi River and Carl Sandburgh's birthplace, among other things. Before it died I used it to take my wife-to-be to the airport (I popped the question two years later).
If a CV can give me half of what that Maverick gave me, I'll be a very happy and loyal CV owner!
Everyone: If I get the steel road wheels in place of the alloys that come with the H & P on a CV, should I expect the price to drop?
Like everyone else, I love the 2000 CV and am currently shopping around for the best price.
Probably unlike most of you, I drive a 1997 CV every night at my job (police officer). I have noticed some things on my patrol car that I want to know if you have experienced in your car as a daily vehicle. My 1997 CV has 78000 miles on it. I have noticed on these models when the transmission goes into overdrive, there is some slipping which makes a loud noise (many of our 1997 patrol cars have this problem). I'm sure none of your CV endure the punishment that we put on these cars.
I applaud Ford for improving the brakes immensely between the 97-99 models. The 99 and 2000 models stop on a dime.
It appears that most of you have had an excellent experience with your CV and GM. I don't want to correllate my patrol car's problems to that of a vehicle that I would drive everyday.
Your input would be appreciated.
It can haul 8x4' sheetrock without having to buy a cap to keep it dry. then
turn around and seat 6 adults and 2 children in
confort. It goes through the snow better than any
frontdrive I have driven. It has enough traction
and ground clearence to go offroad to get to my
fishing hole, a 2wd pickup wouldn't make it. It
handles very well, Gets up to 70 mph going up
a hill onto the interstate quickly, and Gets 22mpg
on the highway. Best of all after 16 years it hasn't needed any major repairs. The AOD trans has
allways been a little quirky though, doesn't shift
when I think it should, of cource I just changed the fluid for the first time (it was like motor oil)