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Dodge/Plymouth Neon

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Comments

  • btrflybtrfly Posts: 21
    Hi, I am hoping some other purchasers of this car will visit this site soon as I'm interested in their experiences with this car. I just bought one-brand new- and am shocked as it seems the brake calipers are all rusted? Also when I play a Cd it seems to make the engine mess up? Any advice? otherwise it's doing very nicely:)
  • kdarmkdarm Posts: 4
    We are buying our first Neon this weekend. A manual 2000 4 dr all basic, no ac, under 45,000 miles for $2900. Though it is a base model car, it seems like a steal--much newer with many thousand less miles than we thought we'd find for the money.

    The one big drawback, worse than no ac, is no cruise control. (My last speeding ticket comes off in November---and I don't want to risk another.) How expensive is it to add on a cruise control at this stage in the game? I wouldn't mind a pop up sun roof to take the place of no ac, but cruise comes first...

    Thanks for your input.
  • bjkingbjking Posts: 2
    I would not put off any oil change in any car no matter how good they say the car would last (dumb)any smart consumer knows you need to change it every 3000-5000 no matter WHAT!!!!!! and as far as doing it your self take your car to a certified mechanic and insure that no matter what someone else is liable other than your self. IT'S CHEAPER IN THE LONG RUN!!
  • bjkingbjking Posts: 2
    MY(BASIC)NEON IS THE BEST 4 YRS AND NO PROBLEMS OTHER THAN THE REGULAR MAINT (OIL CHANGES & TIRES) AS FAR AS YOUR BASIC NEON I HAVE ONE AND IT IS WORTH WELL OVER 2900.00 W/O AIR. IF YOU HAVE THE MEANS TO MAKE IT WITH A SUN ROOF GO FOR IT, BUT AS FAR AS A CRUISE CONTROL IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS WITH TICKETS YOUR BETTER OFF W/O! TRUST ME!!!
  • btrflybtrfly Posts: 21
    Wow, that really seems like a "steal"! I paid $12,500 for my 2004 but it has everything except a sunroof. I am alittle disappointed in how they cut corners on some things tho- like no light in the glove carpartment? and unless u turn on the lights, u can't see to shift in the dark! However, it did very good in the awful rain we just had when someone went sideways in front of me, even without the ABS brakes!! Now if the engine would quit knocking at times at a light...so only minor kinks so far.
  • I bought this car used, so I don't have an owner's manual. Is it very hard to change out my headlamps? I want to buy some 9007ST Silverstar lights and put them in, but I'm not sure how.
  • I have a 2001 Neon SE. Car has ran great till about a month ago. It started to spit and sputter on takeoff and overdrive. I started thinking it might need a tune up but I wanted to make sure so I asked the dealership where I got it to do a diagnostic check on it. It read that the #2 cylinder was misfiring. So I got a tune up but just changed the plugs. About a month later, the same thing happened. I got another tune from a different place and only changed the wires. It ran fine. Now it has started again. I'm pretty sure it's the #2 cylinder burning up my plugs. I don't know why or how to fix it. Can anyone help me out with this or has anyone had this happen to them before?
  • Cruise in that model is very easy to install; a little harder on the post 2003 models. It MAY even be partially prewired back then. Any dealer can put it in. It will be identical to the steering wheel type that come from the factory.
  • New car like that should not "knock" ... try a different brand of GAS. Not sure of you location, but up here in Canada I have had some success with using standard oil for the first 10,000km and then flipping to synthetic.

    The SX/Neon is designed to run on "cheap" 87 octane fuel (or even lower). Change gas stations for a few tanks to see if that clears it up. Once you get some mileage under your belt you might get some knocking in cold weather, but it should be solid with then car is new and engine tight.
  • when should i have the timing belt replaced in my 2000 neon? i just turned 60k mi. according to edmunds it's not until 105k mi. and also it wasn't required at 52.5k mi( half of 105k mi). i just figured it was every 60k mi. is edmunds correct? i do not have a manual, i bought it used. also the rear brakes sqeak. any solutions or previous postings you can refer me to. our mechanic says the brakes are fine and the sqeak is typical for neons. thank you.
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    I've always changed mine between 50 & 60k. My mechanic always says to be on the safe side and replace it at roughly 50 thousand miles. Better than losing the whole engine.
  • I bought an '00 SE auto, haven't had any trouble till recently. I noticed that the engine will act like it shifts down the rpm's come up (I don't have a tach but can hear it and feel it a little) and then it will "shift back" and the rpm's drop. I assume it is dropping in and out of overdrive, my mileage hasn't dropped but the performance seems like it is dogging a bit. The only thing I have had done is replacing the shift selinoid at 41k because it was leaking. I still notice it either shifting or the RPM's reving. Any ideas?
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    I haven't been checking this newsgroup much, so I missed your post:

     

    You said: "Congratulations on your shrewd purchase, micweb. I know a fair amount about the Neons, and they have improved sound insulation for 2004, as you can appreciate. The car has excellent build quality for its class, and is tuned for a sporting character (steering, suspension, brakes). They have a winning racing heritage on the SCCA circuit, too. They're neat, bottom line. More fun to drive than many cars on the road. Needs a few refinements, like a more-modern interior, but they also are dirt-cheap to own. Enjoy!"

     

    So it does have better sound insulation than the 2002 I had? Excellent!

     

    You'll be pleased to know I tracked down some R/T springs and had them installed. Car no longer leans in curves and transitions. I am debating whether to install KYB GR2 shocks as well - KYB tells me the valving is significantly firmer than the stock (SE and SXT) Neons and about 5% firmer than the R/T valving. Any thoughts or suggestions? I tried Eibach Pro-Kits on another car, and didnt like the lowering or harsh ride, but "factory sport" (R/T) sounds appealing.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    At about 4,000 miles, I decided to upgrade from the stock Goodyear LS tires, which come in 185/60/15 size. I thought that was a little skinny. Having put 205's on a former (2001) Neon, I thought that would be a little too wide. So I went to 195's.

     

    Unfortunately the closest "plus zero" replacement is 195/55, since the stock tire is already a 60 series. And 55 series tires in that width only seem to come in V rated or high performance tires. Of these, only the BF Goodrich Traction T/A is reasonably affordable. The T/A in this size with a V rating is an "up engineered" version of the more common H rated T/A.

     

    I had a lot of trouble with these tires. Admittedly they handled and look great, but they were relatively noisy, despite being reviewed as being reasonably quiet (maybe they are in the H rated versions?), plus they had an undiagnosable tire pull (checked alignment three times, swapped and rotated tires etc.). The best I can explain it, is that they felt that they were tires designed for a "right hand drive" market like Japan or England. (All tires are designed with some "pull" to counteract the crown of the roads; in Japan and England people drive on the "wrong" side of the road, so they need tires engineered to pull to the right to countereffect the crown of their roads.)

     

    Anyway, I finally got tired of the noise and the pull to the right, and replace the tires with 195/60/15 Bridgestone 950's. What a transformation! The car no longer drifts right, ride is much smoother and more comfortable, steering and cornering are still razor sharp. I have a slight speedometer error (about plus 1 mph at 70mph).

     

    These tires really transform the car. Yeah, it's true, the right tires can really add the finishing touch to a car. Now I am excited about the Neon again and am thinking of adding KYB GR-2 shocks, which are a little firmer.

     

    (Mods/upgrades to date: R/T springs, a little firmer than the standard suspension; K&N airfilter; Mobil 1 5-30 oil; Purolator oil filter. I don't think the air filter is very helpful, imho those gauze air filters really only help if you drive full throttle more often than I do, otherwise if you want more air just open the throttle more.)

     

    (Comments and observations: the air filter and box on this car are huge compared to my former Scion xA! Stock handling is GREAT! Even with an automatic - 4 speed- performance is great, the 4 speed is well tuned, well geared, and responsive!)
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    How has the reliability been on your Neon? There have been no reports on the newer Neons and I'm curious how they are doing.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Zero defects as of one year of ownership and 8,500 miles.

     

    Consumer Reports has excellent ratings on them for 2003 and 2004. Keep in mind that their reports are based on reader polls, and so those two years are with very light miles.

     

    American cars post-1999 have been pretty good up to 60,000 miles, then have small problems. Japanese cars - at least Toyota, Honda - seem to hold up longer, but it's hard to tell since few original owners go beyond 100,000 miles.

     

    IMHO most cars have an initial shake out period, where you have to fix a couple of minor things under warranty, then a second shakeout period around 40-80,000 miles. After that you are probably good for another 40-80,000 miles.

     

    In short, if you like Neon and get a good price, it's a great car. But keep in mind that if you pay full sticker, even applying the rebates etc., it isn't such a good deal, because depreciation is steep.

     

    I have found, recently, that discounts on Toyotas and Hondas (but not Scions) are as steep as on American cars, excluding the rebate. I have gotten 10% of the MSRP in two cases on Honda. That was more than what I got off on the Neon, not counting the rebate. So do your math carefully!

     

    Also, if you are looking for a used Neon, you can get a great buy on a 2003 or even 2004. But, after this year, the Neon is scheduled for replacement. This fall look for a lot of new cars - Honda is revamping the entire Civic line, Neon should be out with a new car, Scion xA is being revamped (or maybe in early to mid 2006), so this market category is pretty competitive.
  • btrflybtrfly Posts: 21
    Well I went for my first "free" maintenance which consisted of a rushed oil change ONLY! I still had concerns about the engine doing a 1 time rev/knock on occassion at a light, and also the klunking if I don't ease the car in2 park when shutting it off...They told me the station manager listened to my engine and it was fine!

      In reply to the nice CAnadian's response, out here in Calif, we dont' have THAT many different gas choices or stations! And anyone else only getting 20 miles per gallon highway? I"m wondering if it might be a cylinder like someone else had a problem with? Thanks and will keep u posted
  • kebredkebred Posts: 1
    I bought my son a new 2001 Neon for his Senior year in High School and to get him through his 4 years of college. I had no idea this car maintenance (routine) have cost more than my GS 300 Lexus. The car is losing power and is starting to cut off. I have taken it to two dealership so far. The last dealership still has the car (Friday-Unknown) and it is costing me 75.00 an hour, just to find out what is going on with it. They are telling me, they have never seen anything like this before. I am 150 miles away trying to handle this over the phone, because it quit on my son's college campus. When this problem fist started, the only thing that was cutting off was the CD/Radio/Lights/Speedometer/Tech and it would cut off for only a second and the return to power. Now it is effecting the engine (cut off). Has anyone else experience this problem? For my next son, I think I will spend the extra money up front and buy a Honda or Toyota.

    Please help!
  • I would consider replacing the battery. I have had several Neons and currently have a 99 Plymouth and a 2002 Dodge R/T. Both my 99 and an earlier 99 R/T had their batteries replaced because of strange electrical problems. Once the batteries were replaced the problems went away. Even though the batteries started the cars with no problems they had weak cells which did not allow the computer to get the voltage level it required. Hope this helps. Both my kids had Neons while the went to college and they performed as well as could be expected of "kids" cars.
  • I bought an 01 neon se and so far my only complaint has been the three speed automatic tranni, good trani but no fun! but then someone tried steeling the damn thing and their foiled attempt left me stranded later. they tried to pull the ignition switch off the colomn assembly and just start it that way, idiots! how would they have unlocked the steering column? any how when they did that they broke that piece of the ignition switching assembly that runs between the lock cylinder and the switch. the only place i can find one is to order a new column for about $300. ouch. can't afford that right now. so i'm looking for any nearly complete column or just the ignition switch assembly for any 01 or newer.
  • its not to hard you dont have to take anything apart. the smaller the hands the better. becides that only 4 bolts hold them in place
  • im about to put a turbo on my 97 plymouth neon but i have to know something first is the oil filter positively charged or what?
  • my 97 requires a timing belt change at 105K miles

    are the brakes drum or disk? mine are drum and they dont squeak.. . becides who needs a manual anyways
  • sassyredsassyred Posts: 1
    I bought my SXT back in September and it has a little under 6,000 miles on it now. I gassed up yesterday and as I was leaving the gas station parking lot, the car started bucking and then the check engine light started flashing.

    I immediately called the dealer who said to bring it in and they'd do what they can. Ran the computer and found nothing wrong. They said there was a notice just reached them about faulty spark plugs and wires in 2004 Neons and that anyone with problems could have the sparks and wires replaced at no cost. So we made an appointment, and were told the car was fine to drive, it just would buck periodically.

    So last night, my husband and I were returning from running errands and every light in the car went out. Instrument panel, radio/cd, headlights, dash board. This lasted about five seconds and then every thing came back on but the car started bucking again. We ended up scrapping plans and came right home as it was too late for the dealer to be open at 7pm.

    So this morning they are saying there is no sign of electrical issues and that they've never heard of such a problem occuring in 2004's. I can't believe that I am the only one. I can't be driving at night if my headlights and electricals are going to fail. Has anyone experienced this issue?
  • mkiddmkidd Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 also and i am at 100,000 miles and my water pump started leaking and then the timing belt went up till now the only problem has been the shaking when it was sitting at lights which ended up being the motor mounts needed replacing
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    My Grandson owns a 95 Neon. Has been nothing but a headache since purchasing,but with a lot of trial and error He and I have about gotten ahead of the game. #1-Instrument Cluster not working-speedometer included. Solution-Pull the cluster and slightly bend the male prongs in the plugs attached to the Cluster. #2-Cruise control-forget about the directions others have told you about removel-Take the battery and battery cage out- The crusie control is attached to the battery cage.Do away with the vaccum box, hook vaccum direct. #3-Headlight lens-Use a mild rubbing compound to clean. #4-Auto-gear shift knob. The push down pin under the handle breaks accasionaly-Superglue it back or dig out some of the remaing pin and make a new one to fit the shaft. You have to remove some of the remaining shaft to have room for it to work properly when handle is replaced with set screw. This is Bozie, Have a ggod Day
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Another solution to a problem on the 95 Dodge Neon-#5-Gas guage not working properly-Solution-Drain gas tank and remove the pump and senseing unit. It all come's out together- Be careful in removing same, it takes a little twisting and turning to remove. Clearance isn't that good. Clean the sliding sensor bar where the electric signal is picked up to go to the guage. Bozie, Have a good day
  • chessallchessall Posts: 1
    Need some advice: 1995 Neon would not start. The battery was fully charged, everything electrical was working. Starter would not engage not even a click. Next morning the car started. Dodge dealer replaced starter, they told me it was faulty. 4 days later the same problem again even with new starter. I have also had this car at the same dealer ship to have fuel gauge repaired. They have installed a new fuel pump and sending unit at a cost of $500.00. The gauge sometimes works but most of the time it reads empty with the low fuel light on.

    Anyone have any ideas.
  • barexybarexy Posts: 3
    Hi,
    Im looking into buying a 1998 neon DOHC with 73000 miles on it.What i would like to know is, are there any problems with the DOHC Motor and will this car hold up for me if i maintain it.
    I hear so much about the neon ,both good and bad i dont know what to think,some input on this would be greatly appreciated
    Thankyou
  • barexybarexy Posts: 3
    Hi,
    Im looking into buying a 1998 neon DOHC with 73000 miles on it.What i would like to know is, are there any problems with the DOHC Motor and will this car hold up for me if i maintain it.
    Neon is a 4 door and is purple in color.Also this neon has front power windows,and not rear power windows,how can this be? Neon has the factory fog lights, factory spoiler,and tach, I hear so much about the neon ,both good and bad i dont know what to think,some input on this would be greatly appreciated.
    Thankyou
  • barexybarexy Posts: 3
    Seems to me there is a problem with the connections, make sure the both battery terminals are cleaned and connections are tight.Next make darn sure that the ground going to the motor its tight.There is a smaler ground wire comming off the negative battery post that will ground to the chassis,make sure that is tight also.I have seen problems in the past with the smaller negative ground wire not being properly grounded thus creating all kinds of havic such as flickering dash lights,and out of wack gages. Beleive me your problem is simple,you just have to know what your looking for and also where to look.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    I am driving a 99 Plymouth Neon and we just got rid of a 99 Dodge Neon RT (Daughter traded for a Sebring Convertible). We bought both cars new. The RT had about 65,000 miles when we got rid of it. My other daughter Bought a Kia Optima and I kept her old car, the Plymouth Neon because it has $5400 worth of hail damage and was worth nothing as a trade. The Plymouth has about 71,500 miles. The only real problems over the years was the original batteries developed bad cells and caused electrical problems until the dealer realized it was bad batteries(both cars) The older Neons had problems with head gaskets blowing. This was supposed to be fixed with a new style head gasket that came out around 97. Both of my neons had head gaskets changed under warranty. Both started leaking oil on the drivers side of the engine. I don't know about the Plymouth but the RT had the old style gasket according to the mechanic who did the repair and it was a 99. I guess they had a stockpile of engines and it got an old one when it was built. The sun roof motor was replaced on the RT twice and the plymouth had its sunroof repaired or replaced 4/5 times. Other than the above they have been pretty reliable. I drive the Plymouth back and forth to work and get 30+ MPG (its a 5-speed). The engine runs strong and I drive it hard and quite often run it up to redline. I change oil and filter every 3,000 miles and put in gas, thats about it. It did get front and rear brakes about 5,000 miles ago but really had another 10,000 miles of life according to the mechanic. All 4 door Neons with power windows have rear crank up windows, even my wife's 2002 Dodge Neon RT. A 98 with 73000 miles could be a good deal if it was taken care of and you get into it cheap enough. Check here on Edmunds and see what the true market value of it is. I personally wouldn't think it would be worth more than $2000 to $2300. Hope this helps!
  • jkdodgejkdodge Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 neon also that my wife drives..occasionially i notice a vibration while the car is idleing at a stop light or even sometime when it is in park just warming up. from time to time it seem like the car revs up and shifts hard. this does not happen often enough to really have me concerned. just wandered if anyone else have experienced the same. the only other complaint i have is that the brakes on the car squeal alot. the dealer said that softer brakes pads would solve this problem,but would burn up faster. besides that i feel that this is a great little car, i have about 60000 miles on the car now,hope to get alot more out of it.
  • My 2001 neon automatic 3 speed had only 12,503 miles on it when i bought it a couple months ago in january of '05. Now it has about 16,400 on it. ever sence i bought it, when i start to drive off ( not accelerating fast but at a slow normal speed)it doesnt shift smoothly. It jerks the whole car on the fist shift and as i get up to speed on the next shift it seems smoother as does the other shifts. why does it jerk the car when it goes in the first shift and not the others. it has low miles so I wouldnt think there would be anything wrong with the transmision already. its not bad when i accelerate hard on it, only when the rpms are low is when i feel it the most. and i think im getting bad gas milage from it. please help
  • I agree with the battery replacement. My gauges jumped while driving at 70MPH and I had to pull over after getting a flat tire. When I went to start my 99 Neon, it had a hard time starting. For $55.00 it was worth the aggravation. Neons are great cars and maintenance is cheap if you're handy a ratchet.
  • 01 tranny problem:: Check your plugs and wires first. Does it act up on an every day occasion or does it act up when it's raining out? If plugs and wires are ok then get it to a tranny shop and have it looked at. I had 50,000 on my 99 and the tranny went. You had to drive the car an hour until the tranny would start shifting properly. I was lucky to have it replaced for free under warranty.
  • tkelly2tkelly2 Posts: 2
    I need help! I just purchased a 200 dodge neon "as Is" and less than a week later the Keyless entry, Cruise Control and Cigarette lighter all stopped working. I figured it was a fuse, but they all look good both in the cabin and under the hood...any suggestions? thanks in advance!!! Toby
  • tkelly2tkelly2 Posts: 2
    I need help! I just purchased a 2000 dodge neon "as Is" and less than a week later the Keyless entry, Cruise Control and Cigarette lighter all stopped working. I figured it was a fuse, but they all look good both in the cabin and under the hood...any suggestions? thanks in advance!!! Toby
  • Has anyone done any experiments to see what spark plug works bext in their Neon? The stock plug for a 99 SOHC is a Champion RC9YC Copper. I was wondering if anyone tried Platinums and did their Neon run any different? Bosch sucks in a Neon, don't bother trying them. Also, recommendations for a good set of wires other than Mopar? -Rick
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Conventional wisdom is the stock plugs replaced at the recommended 30k or at 15-20k if you do it yourself are best. People report bad experiences with other plugs. Factory wires from an online provider are fine and seem to be good for 60k.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    Stock Champion plugs and Mopar hi performance wires work well in my 99 DOHC/5 speed.
  • neo763neo763 Posts: 4
    I also have a 2000 neon with 71000 with the same symptoms. I took my car in for an oil change and by routine inspection they found that the lower left motor mount was broke. Afterwards I found that the upper left motor mount is broken also. It does not appear to be causing a major problem but I have not had it repaired yet because it costs $100 a pop per mount for replacement. I thought I would do it myself but I'm having difficulty finding the parts without going to the dealer. I'm told that Napa or carquest will have them. The jury is still out on whether they have them or not.
    My brakes squeal some as well but I still have plenty of pad left. The service tech told me not to worry about it that it is just some dirt that gets caught between the pad and the rotor and will usually work itself out. Thanks for posting your problem, I'm glad to hear someone else is having the same issues that i am. Good luck on your fix.
  • I have a good friend that has a 97 Neon and this morning the headlights would not come on.All the dash lights worked and the brights signal light stayed on in the dash but headlights did not work on dim or bright. The battery was replaced for the 3rd time about 2 weeks ago and nothing else has been changed but the oil.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • dipdip Posts: 1
    yeah napa should have the mounts cut i stopped in the store and they can get them but they were about $32 each so i went on summitracing.com and they had the inserts for $42 and it had all 3 inserts for the motor and tranny(they are supposed to be a little stiffer) i dont know how they will be cuz they are still in shipping damn ups and not working on sat. haha but when i put them in ill let you know how bad it was and how good they are i drive a 98 dodge neon but i am thinking they will proly be about the same when putting them in
    just thought i'd let you know about your question

    hope this helps Darin
  • hcs820hcs820 Posts: 1
    :shades: Hello! I bought my 98 Neon in late November. I wanted a car that I could trust to take me from my college town to home (2 1/2 hours) and still get good mileage. It's an automatic, but it gets at least 30 mpg on the highway, even with my lead foot. I've only had it for 5 months, but I couldn't be happier with it. There were no problems for the previous owner;and the only problem I have is that I can't get the moonroof back on its track. I'm poor and not mechanically inclined, but if someone can tell how I can fix it myself I'd be grateful. I got this car for $2500, so I feel like a got a great deal. I love my car! I can even fit my 350 lb, 6 ft tall brother in the passenger seat and still get up the huge hills of the Ozarks! Now that is impressive. Have a great day everyone! :)
  • I have had my 00 Plym Neon since Feb. 04 and every once in a while weird things happen. The problems I have had are: the factory alarm goes off for no reason(usually in the middle of the night), the power locks flicker while I'm driving, and today for the first time, the door lite kept popping on along with the dome light. This happens pretty random but the only thing I can relate to each occurrance is that its either really cold or raining, or some other change in weather, when these things happen. I'm clueless when it comes to cars, so I don't want to take it in until I have some idea what it will cost. Any info would help
  • I have a 1996 Neon, it was running good up until last week, it was stalling, running rough, and then not starting at all just turning over. I'd leave it for a while then all of a sudden the car would run fine after, anyways i did all the preliminary checks : coil resistance, Cam Sensor test, Crank Sensor test, and fuel pressure test, and they all turned out good when the car was running good. But when the cars acts up i don't have any spark, or fuel, and to make matters worse when it does this, i can't even get into the computers diagnostic section with the Snap-On scanner. I'm starting to believe that the PCM is being the main source of the problem, but i was just wondering if anyone else has had any sort of problem like this and could give me any ideas on where to go next, because i don't want to go start changing parts and not figure out the problem
  • neo763neo763 Posts: 4
    Thanks and good luck.

    David
  • brianm2brianm2 Posts: 1
    My girlfriend's 2003 Neon had a very similar electrical problem where all the lights went out and then came back on. The dealership said they couldn't find a problem, but after a few days it happened again. The dealership ardently assured us that the car was fine, but finally the lights wouldn't turn on at all; and as it turns out the problem was a faulty switch in the dash that burnt up the wire harness. They replaced the entire harness. Now the lights work fine, but the car bucks under acceleration. A new set of spark plugs was the solution the first time it did this, but now a new set didn't even phase it. The dealer suggested new plug wires, but it seems like a fuel issue. Is it true that the 2003 and newer Neons don't have a fuel filter? That's what the dealership said. :lemon:
  • slisli Posts: 1
    The odometer doesn't work. Bought the sensor today and tried to replace it. Thanks.
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