Dodge/Plymouth Neon



  • tyoung399tyoung399 Member Posts: 1
    Okay my 97 neon keeps cutting off like if i apply the brakes it will die.
    Also there is oil where the spark plugs are? Any suggestions what it might be and how expensive to fix?
  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    The dying of your car applying the brakes sounds like a crossed wire. The oil coming from your spark plugs is the gasket thats on the bottom of the cylinder. Had the same problem with my 99 and I caught it a week after I bought the car last year. Therefore the dealer had to fix it. :)
  • djksrdjksr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 dodge Neon. I have a rattle in the front suspention that I can not find. I have replaced the struts,lower controll arms with new balljoints,new outer tierod ends, new control arm pins and bushings new break pads and rotors and a 4 wheel alienment, but i still have the rattle can anyone help me with this problem.
  • goldustwomangoldustwoman Member Posts: 2
    i have a 95 neon 5 sp manual SOHC
    driving down the highway with no warning it just cut off and will not crank...i retreived the codes from the check engine light blinkings and the codes were
    #11 timing belt skipped one tooth or more from initial learned value.. intermittent loss of either camsheft or crankshaft position sensor.. no crank referance signal detected during engine cranking
    # 32 EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system failure
    then the #55 {end of error}
    can any one help me?
  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    How many miles are on your Neon? If over 130,000 and you never changed your timing belt, guess what? You guessed it. Time to change it. You'll also have to have your waterpump changed with it and might as well have your radiator flushed. :cry:
  • rtullochrtulloch Member Posts: 6

    I have a Dodge Neon (2000) and just went about replacing the lower control arms. Passenger side went Okay but rear bolt (rusty) very tight. On driver side the nut broke loose inside the frame and I cannot see where to get at it. Pulling up carpet there appears to be a round circle in the plastic panel under carpet approximately where and access might be. Am I on the right track here??? torcons/emo_confused.gif /emo_confused.gif
  • rtullochrtulloch Member Posts: 6
    Well, the little round outline in the plastic floor coving was not it. Next choice is to cut the bolt and drop the cross member hoping there is a slotted hole to insert a new nut through. Failing that my choice will be to cut such a slot, put a nut in and weld it inplace through the slot. Last cjhoice would be cut an access hole in side of frame member, replace nut and weld plate over hole.

    Come on now. suggestions?

  • goldustwomangoldustwoman Member Posts: 2
    i have 144 k miles on my car....thanks for the input..will let you know the outcome :sick:
  • phishinphishin Member Posts: 1
    hey, just bought a 2.0 4dr sedan, and one of the 1st people i talk to about it said that they have a history of computers going bad. specificly he said at about 120,000 miles, at a cost of about $1,000 to replace. car has 102,000 miles on it and runs great. any imput would be greatly appreciated. thanx
  • rtullochrtulloch Member Posts: 6
    I have replaced computers omn cars and they are in the range of 100-200. You can get them cheap at auto stores.
  • gtcorner12gtcorner12 Member Posts: 1
    A friend borrowed my car, the cables got crossed while jumping and now I have the following problems:
    1) the A/C only works when I am on the breaks
    2) the windshield wiper delay doesnt work
    3) the white rear lights that come on when in reverse don't work
    4) the 4 disc CD player doesnt get any power to it
    5) the rear window defroster doesn't work.
    6) Fuse 7 which says EBL, A/C etc keeps blowing when replaced.
    All of these problems started after the cables got crossed. Any ideas?
    I drive a 2000 plymouth neon LX
  • powerman5000powerman5000 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 99 Plymouth Neon Highline the other day and everything is fine. Well, except for today when my air bag light came on for about 5-10 seconds while driving home. Is this anything to be concerned about? hasn't happened again since.
  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    This happened to me also. First my oil light came on and went off then the air bag and then my speedometer dropped to zero while I was going 70MPH on the highway. It turned out to be a simple problem. My battery needed to be changed. I got a flat coming home, turned my car off to change it and my car wouldn't start that afternoon. If that isn't it, check your fuse box. :)
  • neontubeneontube Member Posts: 3
    My 95 neon guages quit, no gas, speedo, heat, batt etc. runs perfect. checked fuses, dont seem to be problem.wots up.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi and welcome - you might also want to post this in our Electrical Problems discussion while you are waiting for an answer here. That will pretty much cover all the bases.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    All of these problems started after the cables got crossed. Any ideas?
    I drive a 2000 plymouth neon LX

    With a hobby that involves electronics and having installed mobile transceivers in vehicles for the last 20 years, I can tell you that you're not going to like my answer.

    You've basically fried everything electrical in the car.

    By reversing the cables, you reversed the polarity of every electrical appliance in the car -- and it probably does not matter whether these devices were on or off at the time.

    No. 6 of your list would infer that you've checked all your fuses -- but just to be sure, check all of them again! Including the fuses under the hood. You may find that some big ol' main fuse blew to protect all of these things. If it didn't, and the reverse polarity made it to the items you listed, you can pretty much count on them being fried.

    I connected a mobile VHF radio backward once, and the immediate flames and acrid smoke were an indication that something was oh-so-very-slightly amiss. It was a total loss as a couple of circuit boards inside had completely melted in the two seconds power was applied.

    Bad news -- sorry!

  • byronautobyronauto Member Posts: 1
    Hey there,

    Crankshaft mounting is dependent on a 'taper' fit, and can be very difficult to remove. Very similiar to a snowmobile primary clutch assembly. The proper tool for the repair is a three jaw puller with special claws to grab onto the pully. Snap-on part number is ya9740a, and some technicians opt not to purchase this expensive tool as its primary use is for chrysler crank pulleys. It comes with two extensions to engage the end of the crankshaft as the hole is countersunk into the shaft. Although they can be difficult to remove, they always come off. Cheating with another type of pully may not exude the nec force to remove the pulley and I have found that lightly tapping the end of the tool will usually 'shock' the taper and cause it to pop off.
  • miradamirada Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I am looking for help. I own a '95 Plymouth neon highline, SOHC. The engine is in a constant high idle state. My mechanic cannot find and problem and told me to drive it and maybe it would work itself out. But I refuse to believe I am the only neon who has had this problem. I am not driving it because I feel I am either going to sprout wings and fly or blow my engine. This year off the top of my head, I have replaced the EGR, O2 sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, MAP, IAC, and the computer.
  • miradamirada Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I think I may be able to get you one possibility. I had that happen to me and I had to have my control panel replaced. If you have someone else do this for you, please make sure that they put in the light bulbs before putting it back into the dash. Without certain 'alarm' lights you are going to have a few problems.
  • romerunromerun Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I've just got the neon from an auction without knowing that it's mileage is 200,000. What a fool I am. It's also manual transmission ! I don't even know how drive manual ! OH MY GOD. I'm going to pick it tomorrow... My question is, Plymouth NEON 2000 is still ok with 200,000 ? One of my friend told me that it's clutch might be worn out.. Hm.. i'm really worry about it.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    How much did you pay for it? If you've only invested a coupla hundred bucks in it, you could sink what -- maybe two thou -- for a rebuilt engine and a new clutch, and have yourself a five-year-old new car! (I'd assume that it still looks pretty good since it's only five years old?)

    BTW, how the heck did somebody rack up 40K miles a YEAR? I thought I was bad at 18K!

  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49

    40K miles a year is no problem if you travel a minimum of 400 miles a week and do approximately the same on the weekends just to get to work. I have a 99' and I bought it last July 04 with 45K on it and I am at 88K now.
  • mpottermpotter Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Dodge neon highline SOHC, and after I passed 100,000 miles I started to have some problems with idle too high or low and also with a throttle 'surge' as I shifted. Sometimes the engine would not stop applying power when I let up on the gas to shift or slow down (this was not fun). There was no trouble code in the on-board diagnosis system and my mechanic had changed out a few of the same parts yours has without solving the problem.

    As it turned out, the throttle position sensor in the throttle body and the Powertrain Control Module were both malfunctioning. Replacement was rather expensive (I think about $800 in parts and labor) but the car has run fine for over a year since the repair. :D
  • handy1manhandy1man Member Posts: 1
    If you haven't got your car fixed yet, I think have the fix. I have a 96 Neon. It to had oil around only the number 4 plug. It would run for a while and die when you slowed and stopped. It would not restart for a few minutes either. The oil around the plugs is due to the spark plug tubes seals are bad. Over a relatively short period of time it will short out the coil. There are a couple of tube types, pressed and threaded. Pressed you will have to get new and threaded you can reseal. Get a valve cover gasket kit. It should come with the tube seals. Ask the store clerk or a mechanic on what type of sealant to use for the tubes you have. I would recommend changing the plugs and wires. If you get the job done by a mechanic it will cost about $425.00. If you can do it yourself it will cost about $100.00. both these prices include a new coil. :)
  • bibi3bibi3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello :cry:
    I have a 99 Neon I bought in 2000, the car was great for a while, have changed the brakes on it twice. I am good about having the oil changed roughly every 6 months or so when recently I started seeing white smoke when I accelerated I got alarmed. I asked a friend of mine (mechanic of course) to look at it, he said that it was the head gasket, so he changed it and sealed it up and put new oil it and said it shouldn't be smoking anymore. But just recently I see the smoke again, and especially more in the heat of TEXAS with the air conditioner on I see it more. I am embarrassed now to drive but I have no other choice. What can I do, on a low budget to fix the car or can some one give me some rough idea of how much it would be fix it.

  • shymerm8shymerm8 Member Posts: 7
    My advice would be to get rid of your car. The longer you keep it the more money you will have to keep putting into it and pretty soon this cheap car will turn into an expensive nightmare. I know I have a 2000 one and it has TONS of problems in the shop every 3 months no joke. I want to get rid of mine sooooo bad. Maybe your friend can look at it again :) But truly my best friend gave hers to her mom even though her mom had a car to drive it into the ground because her trans has gone out twice. My $10,000.00 car I would say has turned into a $ 25,000.00 car with all the work we have had to put into it. We are only fixing it till the payments are done and we are down to 4000.00 and after that it is going to be driven into the ground because my husband wont sell this lemon to anyone afraid they will come after us and does not wish this car on anyone. Sorry I could not have been more help. But you need to really get a another car and dump the neon. I have another new car and I love it and trust me it is no neon. Shy :shades:
  • rdragonrdragon Member Posts: 1
    :sick: I have a 1996 Neon with SOHC 2.0L 4 door. The problem Im having is the AC blows air but the air is not cold I have gone and get recharge kit to recharge it with R134a will trying to charge the system I started hearing something was unable to find out where it is coming from. But on the gear for the charging kit it would show in the Blue that it was charge and then drop to 0 as if it had no charge. To me its sound like a relay that comes on and off you can see the car surge with power and then it will lose power this is all will the car is just setting in the drive way. Also most like the AC come on then off , on then off. Any Ideas would help.

  • scott12403scott12403 Member Posts: 1
    hey man whats i up, i work at a auto zone and change lights for these cars all the time there is a housing in the rear of the headlight. Turn the housing and slide the light out. When throwing in the halogen bulbs though dont touch the actuall bulb, the grease on your hands will shorten the life anymore problems dont be afraid to just shout out
  • daddyreddaddyred Member Posts: 1
    i had just driven back from my trailor about 150kms started no problems never had any problems with my starter when i got home i got in the car to go to the store and it wouldn't crank [turn over] so i look at the starter and the live power wire to the cyliniod was curoaded and broken i then removed the starter jumped it exturnaly [starter is definitly dead] replaced new one ! STILL NO TURN OVER NO CRANKING could it be my crank censor shorted out if the wire grounded out any where! :mad: :sick: 1995 dodge neon
  • 2me2me Member Posts: 7
    it's a 95 neon 5 speed. A week ago it ran great. it will start and idle perfectly but as soon as you press the gas it "blub, blub, blubs" like a motorcycle with the choke left on. If you let off the gas it goes back to idle. I replaced the fuel pump and it was no better. If you pump the peddle quickly you can achieve the higher RPM's. There is no smoke coming out and the oil is clear and clean. There is the oft mentioned oil in the spark plug tube in one of the cylinders but it looks like it has been there for a while. The head was redone a year ago.
  • 2me2me Member Posts: 7
    I mispoke. I replaced the Fuel Filter not the Fuel Pump. Anyone have any suggestions???
  • redsoxfan4redsoxfan4 Member Posts: 1
    my girlfriends 98 neon sport (under 100K miles). two days ago started making a loud noise (like the air is on)from engine. as far as i can tell all hoses/fans seem to be working properly. seems to get louder every day and today it died while waiting at a light. any help?? thanks.
  • mamascoobymamascooby Member Posts: 2
    I own a 99 neon SOHC. My battery light came on and thought it was the alternator so I had the alternator changed. No change & my mechanic said it was the Power Control Module so we put a new on in, but no change. ANY IDEAS?
  • pinksliprtpinksliprt Member Posts: 2
    sounds like a vacume leak also check ur pcv valve
  • pinksliprtpinksliprt Member Posts: 2
    how about the battery tray sensor?
  • eeejeeej Member Posts: 3
    :cry: I bought a good used 1999 Neon a short time ago. Love it! HOWEVER (isn't there always a "but"?) one day I turned the key and NOTHING! After playing around a couple of times, I found that the key turns too far and the car will not start. Once I got it running I could even REMOVE the key and the car kept running. I wasn't happy about it but as long as it started I didn't care much. Now I care....because it sometimes takes me 5, 6, 7 turns of the key to get it started. IS THIS THE IGNITION SWITCH IN THE STEERING COLUMN? If so, does anyone have experience with this, had theirs replaced or could offer me some information? I don't want to be taken by a mechanic that can see a sucker coming a mile away. Fore armed is fore warned! I'd be deeply appreciative if someone could give me some guidance!!!! :)
  • mamascoobymamascooby Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply! We need all the help that we can get.....What is the battery tray sensor? We are taking my car to the dealership in a couple of days for a diagnostic, but I have no faith in them finding the problem. My husband has tried everything.
  • zinneonzinneon Member Posts: 2
    its leaking gas by the gas tank. there are 3 places where it looks like hoses can come out of the gas tank . 2 of the hoses go to my gas filter and the 3rd port the hose is gone or there is a cap that goes there. i cant find any hose hanging to connect to it. there is a hose clamp still in on that nub. any idea where this 3rd port would go to or if it just needs to be capped off??? ty
  • zinneonzinneon Member Posts: 2
    this is a 1996 dodge neon
  • crabtreejnmcrabtreejnm Member Posts: 1
    :mad: I have a 98 Dodge neon with a serious attitude problem. When I down shift it sometimes shut off if i dont give it gas. I had a new header put on it. It didnt do this until then. have replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood someone help me please. :sick:
  • bobh3bobh3 Member Posts: 1
    had this problem on my 2000 lx neon
    had the oil changed and it drives like new
    seems the valves were not getting enough lubrication
  • steveflstevefl Member Posts: 62
    I bought a 1995 Neon earlier this year and it has recently developed the same problem you described. I'm fairly certain it is due to a worn ignition switch (not ignition lock) but I need to research the problem a bit more. The car still starts (sometimes after 3 or 4 tries) so I'm not in any real hurry. I'll keep you informed what I found out, and maybe you'll post anything you find out.
  • neontrixieneontrixie Member Posts: 2
    I had this EXACT same problem recently, and for me it was the fuel pump. Sometimes it would be running fine, but when it did act up, I lost all power when pressing on the gas. Had the fuel pump replaced, and havent had any problems like that since. Best bet is to get a fuel pressure test, and check the pressure on it when the engine bogs down. Good luck!
  • neontrixieneontrixie Member Posts: 2
    Ok, so heres the situation. I have a 95 Dodge Neon, and it has been making a whiny/screeching sound for awhile now. Someone told me it was the a/c compressor belt most likely, which is bad if it goes. However, tonight on my way home, I was leaving the parking lot and I lost power steering and the car started smoking really bad. I shut it off and looked under the hood. The smoke was coming from the front passenger side looked to be right by the radiator, but couldnt REALLY track it. After I restarted the car, I still had no power steering, but it stopped smoking. Also, the annoying noise went away. (Yeah!) So my question is, would the a/c belt cause this if it broke, or is it more likely a power steering belt? Also, approximatly how much would it be to replace? Thanks for your help in advance! :)

  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    I have a 99' Neon and after my mechanic told me that my power steering belt was dry and cracking, I had him replace both belts and it cost me $180 dollars to fix it. I wouldn't recommend driving it because your car will overheat because the waterpump is not working. Get your belts replaced and your car will run better. The whiny/screeching noise as you described was because the belts were dry as a bone and sometimes belt lube will do the job but only as a temporary measure. Usually belts will start to screech after it has rained out and they will stop. If they don't stop and belt lube is needed then it's time to get to your mechanic. Hope this helps you out. :)
  • eeejeeej Member Posts: 3
    Alrighty, Steve! And if I stumble on some vital info in the meantime, I'll let you know too. Thanks! :)
  • steveflstevefl Member Posts: 62
    OK, here's what I found out. The switch is sold at AutoZone for $31.99. See here:igniton switch.

    I went and purchased the switch (it was in stock). Replacement is simple enough that even a bumbling amateur can do it BUT... There's a catch. To remove the old switch you need a #10 Torx bit from your screwdriver set, which I assume everyone has, BUT... Some clown engineer decided to make the screw head not an ordinary one but a #10 Torx tamper-resistant screw head. That means you have to find a special set of bits.

    I found what I needed on eBay for $5.88 incl. shipping and ordered it. It's on its way. In the meantime my car is still drivable so I can be patient. Good luck to you.
  • rickohrickoh Member Posts: 1
    How do I replace the filler tube on my 95 Dodge Neon?.
  • lilb67lilb67 Member Posts: 1
    If u happen 2 figure out what the problem is please respond 2 [email protected] and let me no. I have the exact same problem. I replaced the entire fuel/sending unit assembly along with a new filter and fuel relay. And it still acts up.
    Thanks lilb
  • jenstakejenstake Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon LX that sounds like a VW bug when I accelerate. I am fairly certain this is probably an exhaust leak however I can't see anything...any suggestions where I should look? And do you think my car will pass smog if I do not fix it?
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