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Audi A6



  • I'm 6'2" and drive with the seat reclined quite a bit due to my back problems. This puts my head next to the pillar in most cars. The S80 pillar is so thick (it contains an air duct) and so close to my shoulder that it is hard to look around. The A6 pillar is farther away and slimmer.

    I thought there would be plenty of leg room in the A6, but since I sit reclined, my knees are up rather than straight (necessary for my arms to reach the controls). So I haven't tested how far the seats go back. In the knees up position, I never noticed the console being a problem. In driving my Honda Accord, I routinely use the console against my calf as a way to stay in position around turns. I don't recall how that felt on the A6... I vaguely remember thinking it wasn't as comfortable in that regard, but I'm not sure.

    I've put off my purchase for awhile due to finances. When I buy, I'm thinking of getting the sport package but swapping my seats with another buyer who has regular seats.... I'm too wide to be comfortable in the sport seats, unless they "break in" and the side bolsters soften with time. I doubt it. My wife feels the same way, liking the non-sport seats. It should be an easy trade to arrange, since most people like the sport seats.
  • I live in the San Francisco area and am seriously considering purchasing an A6 4.2. I have heard from an independent mechanic who owns his own garage that although Audi makes a great car, when it needs repair it often takes a long time (weeks) to obtain parts. Has anyone experienced this?

    I have noticed some A6's are quite scratched up on the real fender (especially the silver model). Is the material used for the paint of such poor quality that it is easy to scratch up the rear bumper. Is there a remedy to this?

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • I don't think the pain on the Audi is of poorer quality than any other comparable car. Mine has taken a beating with only one scratch so far. I have three dings in my car, one make with a clear sharp force, and no paint scratch there. I give the paint an A. I have the cashmere grey paint.

    Audi parts do indeed typically come in slow. Took me 6 weeks for a headlight (it turned out I didn't need), over 2 months for a windshield, and I've been waiting for a radio for over 3 months with no sign of it yet.

    I see the S80 offers rear heated seats this year. There is a catch though. It's actually on a different car. Volvo offers an executive S80 this year. It has full leather seating, rear heated seats, 2" more rear legroom and a DVD player that plays DVDs in the rear seat. Also has an option of a mobile fax machine. This is clearly for people who get chauffeured around, and thus sit in the back seat all the time. It also clearly will cost a mint. The option package alone (only available on a T-6 exec) costs $5400.
    If you want one of these, I'd get one quick, I think it will flounder in the US marketplace. Seriously, who in the US who gets chauffeured is going to buy an S80 over an S500? Look for the resale to stink to high heaven too.
  • rollierollie Posts: 337
    Regarding post #204:

    Bollinger, I think you are slighty off here on this one. While I certainly agree that not many individuals will buy S80s for limos, it is not the case that the S500 is all that common as a chauferred car either. Lincolns and Caddys still own this segment. (For the price, the $46k S80 Executive is still a relative bargain for a limo considering the content.)

    However, you need to understand, that livery car companies (most notably Boston Coach) love the S80. Boston Coach alone has thousands of these cars nationwide and I've been in more than my share of them (mostly 2.9s but the Executive will certainly be appearing in their fleets for at least a trial if not a long-term stay). Boston Coach (BC) originally signed a deal with Volvo a couple of years ago that expired earlier this year (?). As I understand it, Volvo guaranteed nice residuals on these cars (as they did for regular personal leases - 66% at 3 years as I recall) which helped seal the deal. Under the new ownership (Ford) BC lost their sweetheart subsidy from what I was told. They looked at everthing from Mercedes (they used to have the previous S-class in the fleet) and BMW to Saab, Lincoln, Cadillac, and Mercury from what I was told. In the end they concluded that for the money the S80 was still the best car for the job so now they lease Volvos at full boat presumably.

    Regarding Audi quality, I absolutely agree with you here. Audi is no more or less reliable overall than Mercedes, Volvo, etc. (I didn't include BMW because I really feel I've seen a lack of widespread common problems with their cars of late). Where companies like Lexus and BMW tend to stand apart from firms like Audi, Volvo, etc. is how they deal with unhappy customers. It seems that the former have much better reputations in the U.S. than the latter in making customers happy to an extent (none of them will readily take a car back but some are better than others in trying to rectify a problem in my experience.)

    Just my 2 centavos...


  • I totally agree the segment isn't owned by the S500. I was going to mention that most US people who get chauffered have even larger cars than the S500, but I deleted it for brevity. I left the S500 in because I feel it is the car that US buyers of chauffered cars would buy if they wanted a European car and didn't want to spring for a Rolls or such.

    Look, I own a turbocharged car. But if I had a ton of money to sink into a huge car and get chauffered, I'd buy a car with a V8 instead. Yes, it's heavier. It could get worse MPG. But the car is already enormous, whats a few hundred more pounds? It's not like it would have handled well otherwise. Upside: higher reliability. Heck, give me the GM 5.3L V8. It's low part count will probably give it a very large reliability advantage over the S500 and S80 T6. Okay, it's a little peaky and low tech. But heck, what do I care? I'm not driving!
  • ravarava Posts: 1
    I am new to this forum - I am planning to buy a 2001 A6 2.7T & had a few questions:

    1. Does the Turbo in the 2.7T require a warm-up and a shut down wait. I read that the turbos are water cooled - Does that mean that I don't have to sitin the car for a minute or two before starting & after shutdown for the oil to warmup/cool down ?

    2. Have the TBB problems often mentioned in this forum been fixed for 2001 ?

    3. Does the Turbo have long-term reliabilty problems ? Did people have their turbos go bust on them on the A6 - If so, have these problems been addressed in the 2001 2.7T ? Are there enuf potential problems with a 2.7T to warrant checking out the 2.8 (can't afford the 4.2) ? I test drove
    the 2.7T and fell in love with it instantly - haven't driven the 2.8 yet.

    4. I live in New Hampshire and the closest dealer in Mass. quoted me a price of $1900 over invoice for a 2001 2.7T? Does that sound like a fair deal ?

    thanks for any responses.
  • 1. Search edmunds. This question is asked far too much. I'm sure you'd find it if you just look 60 messages back on this thread. Three clicks away.
    2. TBB problems are rare on A6's (compared to S4's), doubly rare on unchipped cars. The problem has been addressed by Audi, but the current fix only reduces the incidence from very low to extremely low. There are still those who have had problems with the new TBB. Once again, the vast majority of people with TBB problems (95%+) are chipped.
    3. Let's put it this way. I'm not concerned about problems. However, any turbocharged car is automatically no more reliable than an equivalent NA car, since it has more moving parts. Again, you'd do best to research this on Edmunds. what you get by asking is just opinions. Look at more responses (by searching) and you get a better picture.
    4. $1900 over invoice isn't bad. It's probably actually quite good unless you have a glut of them out there.
  • Over the past 2 weeks I've been reading every Audi forum in Edmunds, because I am also interestd in purchasing a 2.7T.

    I have not read any complaints about Turbo operation or longevity. Although, as bollinger said, there is more moving parts, so inherently Turbos are more prone to potential failure than normally aspirated engines. Turbos have come a long way since inception and I image they would be trouble free with intercoolers. A couple of posts alluded to old habits of letting the car idle for a minute or so after a hard drive, but somebody else stated the dealer didn't say it was necessary.

    I too live in NH and am interested in your experiences with the local dealers. I've been to A.E. Park in Lawrence, and Pass & Weisz in Burlington. I haven't begun to talk money, because I am waiting for a overnight test drive before I make my decision. What options were included in the $1900 over invoice quote, and which dealer? I don't want to fill this forum with specific question about our areas dealers. Can you send me mail at [email protected] or provide your email so we may share experiences. Thanks. Mike
  • I had 2 80's Audi 5000 Turbos. Both went over 130K miles with NO problems, including turbos.

    However, I drove slowly, with gentle accelleration for the first mile or 2, and let them idle and cool down for a minute or so when returning from a hard or freeway drive - just like i do with a regular engine, but more religiously. I also changed the oil often.

    Turbos face raw cylinder exhaust at incredible temperatures, and spin at up to 100,000 rpm or more! Only a fool would dump that on a cold turbo or prevent a hot one from cooling off a little.

    All Audis since my '87 have water cooled bearings, which eliminated many problems, but it is still a good idea to let them cool a little before turning off the key. Use the time to put on/off your seatbelt, get your stuff situated in the car, adjust the stereo, roll the windows up / down, put on the Club, etc.

    Most large diesel trucks are turbo'd and run hundreds of thousands of miles. Just take care of them, and you won't have any more problems than with a normally aspirated engine.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    Regarding turbochargers, although I don't have them in my A6 (it's a 2.8), I DO have one in my Volvo (a '92 940 Turbo). I've owned the car since new and have changed the oil religiously, every 2500 miles (twice the recommended frequency). In addition, I ALWAYS let the engine idle down for a minute or so after spirited driving. I've been told repeatedly that these two procedures can dramatically increase the life of turbochargers, even those that have water intercoolers (such as that on the Volvo and those on the 2.7T).

    For the record, my 940 Turbo has 254,000 miles on it and the original turbo is still blowing strong. In fact, there have been no major (or even moderate) power train problems on this car whatsoever. My point is that turbos don't necessarily mean trouble, especially if they're properly taken care of.

    One other thing...other than more frequent oil changes (which benefit the entire engine, not just the turbos), turbos don't require any special maintenance. They really are a pretty cost-effective way to get a lot of extra performance.
  • In regards to potential problems, what does TBB stand for?
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    "Throttle Body Boot"
  • Don't know who christened it a TBB, but sure it stuck.

    See the sexy upside-down "Y" shaped intake tube on top of the 2.7T engine? That's the air feed to the turbos. Below the engine cover is another Y. But at the meeting of this Y, there is a rubber join, not a metal one. That is the TBB. It blows because of the pressure coming from the turbos. I have a replacement one here at home (just in case), and it is quite hefty. I can't see how it is blowing. It must be the sharp clamps biting in. This is consistent with the usual appearance of the cracks under the clamps. Perhaps smoothing off the clamp edges would help?
  • What are the symptoms of a TBB problem?
  • Serious loss of power right when you call for it most also. If you open the windows closely, you might hear the air woosh out too, but since it only happens under load, you probably won't hear it over the engine. Others say they hear the turbos overspeed.

    I haven't had a problem, so this is second hand. But mostly you notice the engine seems to have power, then lose it, then it's back. So, mostly its surging.
  • You know, I may have this problem. I have a 2001 2.7 with 2400 miles. Sometimes when accerating I can feel the turbo go in and out (surging?) while my throttle position is constant.

    Furthermore, sometimes when I accelerate, I would describe the rate as amazing. Other times, it seems flat. When I start accelerating from around 3500-4500 rpms the car seems flat. When accerating from 2000-3500 rpms the rate is much better, and I can definately feel the turbos. I previously thought that the psi on the turbos was limited so much that they didn't do much past 4000 rpms. Now I'm thinking that the TBB connector might have a hole in it (or something).

    One more thing. After one of my first drives (maybe even after the drive home from the dealer) I noticed some black dust on the lower front bumper. It looked like break dust, but I didn't think that break dust would travel forward. I chalked it up to the initial oily engine covering burning off. Now I'm wondering if it is was the remnants of a TBB blowout.

    Should I take the car into the dealer?

    Other than my worries about the TBB, the car is great, and still has good power (from low rpms, and maybe that's the way it's supposed to be)...
  • I would like to find out if anyone else out there is having transmission problems with an A6. I have a 1998 A6 2.8 auto with 24k miles. Does anyone else have this problem?
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    You don't make it easy to help! Just what problems are you having?
  • Don't know about the dust. The turbos are limited, but not so much that they actually drop in power at higher revs. With different programming, they keep developing more torque past 2800 or something, to peak at 320 or something. With the chip, the torque levels off. Anyway, you shouldn't have less acceleration at 3500 than 2500, just the same.

    You might have a torn TBB describe the symptoms to your dealer and see if they think you should bring it in. I'd have it checked.
  • I'm considering an A6 2.8 w/ Quattro, but one of my remaining questions is the visibility from the rear window/rear view mirror. It seems really small. I have an Accord now, and feel like I can see a lot. The high headrests on the A6 back seats make it even smaller.

    No car will be 100% perfect, but I wondered if this is the 1% that people find inadequate?

  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    This is one that I haven't heard before. Personally, I've never had a problem. It's actually quite a bit better in the A6 than in my Volvo 940, where the head rests get in the way quite a bit.

    If you haven't already done so, you ought to pose the same question to the folks in the A6 forum at There are MANY more participants there.

    By the way, I have a 2000 A6 2.8Q and love it. I'd be happy to answer any further Qs you may have as you continue your research.

    - Mike
  • I first had this concern about visibility in the A6. I am really picky about visibility. On driving it, I didn't have any problem. The rear pillars are not really interfering with driving.

    Our A4 is similar, but I never suffer for lack of visibility. I too have an Accord, a 1990 coupe which has a huge tall and wide windshield and rear window. The Audi's increasingly have a stockier style, less glass and a more hulking body. But, driving it there is really no concern.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    I'm sensitive to this issue also. On my test drive of the A6 I thought the sight lines were great, no problem. Second only to my '92 Legend, better than my '96 ES300.
  • 1. Has anyone had problems with the trunk release button not working? Several times in the past two weeks I have hit the button located in the driver's side door well to unlock the trunk after turning off the engine, and nothing happened. I had to use the ECM or the key to open it.
    2. I have little "water spots" all over the outside of my windows. I can't seem to get them off, despite attempts with Windex and water, etc. They were there when I received the car about 6 weeks ago. Any ideas as to what this could be and how to get rid of them? Thanks!
  • I have two questions. 1.) Does anyone have positive, value for the money invested experience with after market extended warranty sellers?

    2.) My factory alarm on my 2000 2.7T seems to go off frequently. I often come out to a parking lot and the lights are flashing. I've been assuming it is in response to some type of jolt. I've not found any door dings that would suggest an easy solution. Recently I was walking towards the car in a lot where I was parked away from other vehicles and as an SUV drove past (10 feet away)the alarm went off (honking, flashing, etc.). So now I wonder if the alarm can be set off by stray electronic signals or certain cell phone codes. Any similar experiences or ideas? I suppose it is also possible the Audi is just barking at SUVs in general.
    These are probably hard water spots. You can remove them with some "Car Clay" that is used to treat car paint. Got to your parts store and get some Mothers or Erazer clay and do your windows.

    The clay is also really good to use on your paint before wax or other polish. Even on a new car, it can remove a lot of grunge and pollution, and leave your paint REALLY smooth. You can get the story at

    The problem will ALL car alarms with motion detectors is that the are TOO DARN SENSITIVE! As you have witnessed, even a loud (or ugly) car can set them off. THAT is why no one pays attention to car alarms.

    I truly believe that the motion sensors are useless, and should be defeated to elimiate the false alarms. Do you really think someone is going to jack up your car to steal the wheels? That's what the motion sensors were originally designed for.

    Talk to your dealer about having this feature defeated before some irate neighbor or shop owner throws a brick through your window!
  • p.s.

    I am assuming that you HAVE a motion sensor. Test for it by whacking a fender or door with your hand to set it off. If NO, then you have a bad alarm that is false triggering.
  • It has an inside motion sensor, not an external one. Of course, that becomes an external motion sensor if you leave your windows or sunroof open.

    Internal motion sensor can be bypassed by pressing the button on the driver's side B-pillar (in the door opening) before you arm the alarm.
  • I had the same problem with my A6 4.2. Alarm going off all the time. Was driving me crazy. Turns out, that it only happens when I have the windows or sunroof cracked open a bit for ventilation. This sets off the inside motion sensor.

    My car has a button on the drivers door frame that disables the inside motion sensors. If I hit this as I exit the car, when I am going to leave the windows open, but the car locked, the problem is solved.

    Hope this helps.
  • Don't know if it would help, but they can do it.
  • I'm considering a 2.7T. The only reference I've seen about real world gas mileage was a comparison test, which said it averaged 15, which is pretty poor. Can anyone tell me your experience with gas mileage?
  • Can somebody help me understand interior seat pricing. I checked edmunds, Kelly blue book and for the msrp and invoice prices. Everything matches. requires a special Advanced Atmosphere seat trim (WM2 opposed to WM1) if you choice the preferred luxury package and Silver exterior/tungsten gray interior. This package lists for $1550 ($1364 invoice). Why? Do I have to pay an extra 1.5k for leather if I choose the luxury package?


  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635

    It sounds like there's a glitch in's model. Here's how it works:

    For the A6 2.7T, there is a "Preferred Luxury Package" that includes power moonroof, leather seating, HomeLink, and memory seats and mirrors. The package retails for $2925. In a 2.7T, the only way to get a leather interior is to get it in this package. The $2925 package price includes all of the items listed.

    In an A6 2.8, there are different choices. The most cost-effective way of getting leather AND moonroof in a 2.8 is to order the "Celebration Luxury Package" for $1975. In addition to the hides & hole in the roof, it includes Homelink. It's a good deal, but for some very stupid reason Audi WILL NOT allow cars ordered with this package to also be ordered with ANY of the following:

    - Premium Package (steering wheel audio controls, memory seats and mirrors, auto-dimming mirrors, and xenon headlights)

    - Guidance Package (navigation system, Parktronic)

    - CD changer

    - Phone

    If you want an A6 2.8 with any of those items, you cannot order the "Celebration Luxury Package". In such case, if you want leather you must order it as a stand-alone option ($1550); if you want the moonroof, you must order it in the "Sunroof Package" ($1200) which also includes HomeLink. As you can see, the combined prices of these two packages far exceed that of the Celebration Package. Again, this applies to the 2.8 ONLY.

    As for the "Advanced Atmosphere", let me try to clear the air. Audi offers a choice of 3 distinct interior "atmospheres", all at the same price. They're called "Ambition", "Ambiente", and "Advance". Each atmosphere is unique in several ways:

    - Available interior colors (Tungsten Gray is available ONLY as part of Advance, in cloth or leather)

    - Color and type of wood trim (Advance & Ambition use dark walnut burl; Ambiente uses light amber sycamore)

    - Color of aluminum interior trim (Advance = "titanium", Ambition = "graphite", Ambiente = "pearl)

    - Standard seating material (Ambiente & Ambition use "leatherette", Advance uses cloth)

    - Seating stitch pattern (Ambiente & Advance is horizontal, Ambition is vertical)

    - Source and texture of leather, if ordered (Advance uses moderately-textured water buffalo, Ambition uses heavily-textured steerhide, Ambiente uses smooth calfskin)

    Hope this helps. If you need more info, feel free to send me an e-mail.
  • Lousy in the city. That's the only way I can put it. I get 16 in the city. That is 100% city though, literally 0 highway miles, so it isn't as bad as it seems. But it still isn't good. Highway mileage is pretty good. 23 is easy to get, 24 not difficult if you can keep the speeds down under 70.
  • Thanks for the detailed descriptions of the A6 atmospheres. I have been considering the A6 but could not get a handle on the interior choices.

  • I must have gotten a good one. 2000 2.7T 6M has averaged 24.4 MPG for about 11K miles. Mostly 40 mph driving. Computer says average speed is 28mph.
  • My 2.8Q (2000) only gets 15.7 in the city. Hwy is about 20. Pretty bad. Otherwise, love the car.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    I'm pretty much in the same boat as honmds. 2000 A6 2.8Q / Tiptronic; I normally get around 22 m.p.g. on the highway. If I mix in some city driving, the average drops down to around 17 or 18. The car has around 5000 miles on it; maybe it will improve as I drive it more. So far, I love the car but I'm very disappointed with the gas mileage.
  • Whatis a good price on a A6 2.7T - discount of sticker?
  • My 99 1/2 A6Q gets 19 in town 25 on the road (at 85 mph). 11K miles on it.
  • as I am not an expert on cars.
    I am undecided between two vehicles. I am leasing for three years, so long-term factors not a consideration.
    I can lease the Audi A6 Quattro for $549 a month. This is based on a price of about $36,000 with a residual of 60%. Includes sunroof and leather.

    The other car is the Mercedes C240, with MSRP of $33,600, residual of 70%. Monthly payment would be $540. Includes sunroof and cd changer.

    All input will be greatly appreciated.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    I assume that your comparing a 2001 A6 2.8Q with the new C Class, correct? They're both terrific cars, to be sure. In my opinion, though, the C Class is not in the same league as the A6. (I find that in terms of size and features, it's more appropriately compared with the A4.) The A6 has much more in common with the E Class than with the C. I say this based upon size, available power trains, and equipment.

    Having said that, in my opinion the A6 wins hands-down. There simply is no more car available for the money. A RWD E320 starts at over $47K, easily $10K more than an A6 2.8 quattro. I'm by no means suggesting that both the C Class and E Class are not fabulous cars, because they're both wonderful. If money is no object, go for them. I spent mine on an A6, though, and it's WONDERFUL. From the gorgeous exterior styling to the sensuous red and white interior lighting to the full instrumentation to the stunning interior appointments, the A6 is absolutely first-rate. I whole-heartedly recommend it.
  • It seems that you are saying that you like it? :)

    I am just biding my time 'till I can get a 2.7T. I had several Audis in the past and all were wonderful.
  • merc1merc1 Posts: 6,081
    I too am trying to decide between an A6 and a C320. The problem with the C320 is that with the sport package you can only get Black leather with aluminum trim. This is a very unattractive interior. Black leather is ok, but it needs to be combined with wood, not aluminum. I'm really not comparing the A6 4.2 with the C320 because they really don't compare. I'm just trying to decide which one I like the most. The A6 4.2 in Ming Blue over Vanilla is almost to gorgeous to believe. However it is a little more money than the C320 Sport, but I guess it's worth it. The A6 2.7t would be closer in price to the C320, but I didn't like the handling, nor the feel or a turbocharged motor in a sedan. I have a turbocharged car now, so I don't want two of them. Only if the A6 2.8 had enough power.

  • Hi all,

    I'm down to the details in choosing between a '98 A6 and a '97 528i. Similar mileage and price. The A6 is better equipped including Quattro, CD changer and 10,000 miles on the warranty vs 3000 on the Bimmer.

    I have been driving 525s (2) for four years and really like 'em. My heart says Bimmer, my value minded self says Audi... dispite the fact that my mechanic says that Audi parts are even more expensive than what I'm used to.

    Any comment out there?

  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    Having never owned a BMW or Mercedes, I'm not qualified to talk about what it's like to live with either. I do, however, have a few thoughts that are based upon facts that are available to everyone.

    1. You can take this to the bank: BMWs, MBs, and Audis are all GREAT cars; they're not all great in the same ways, but in the end I doubt that many folks would be unhappy with any of them.

    2. If interior space is of value to you, both in terms of shoulder room (width) and rear seat room (leg room), the C Class and 3-Series would probably be mistakes; the 5-Series is an improvement, but still doesn't approach the accommodations of the A6, which is downright spacious.

    3. If you prefer FWD, you'll never be happy with any C Class or 5-Series. If you prefer RWD, forget any Audi. If you want AWD, an Audi A4 or A6 quattro is an obvious choice. In addition, for WELL OVER 50K you can get an E Class 4-Matic.

    4. All 3 manufacturers offer manual transmissions and 5-speed automatics, though not both across their entire lines.

    5. If you're price-sensitive, the A6 is a slam-dunk. Don't take my word for it, check it out right here at Edmund's. The M.S.R.P. on a LOADED A6 4.2 (V8) quattro (with everything, including navigation system) is around $55K. Compare with that of an E430 at over $60K. A 540i is right in the middle. Factor in that (in my opinion, at least) the A6 is the most car of the 3, and these numbers take on added significance.

    6. When I bought, I was on the other end of the scale. I was looking for a $40K sedan, preferably German-built. I wanted a comfortable back seat area, so the 3 logical choices seemed to be A6, E320, and 528i. (I also checked out the Acura 3.2TL and Volvo S80.) Besides, the A6, E Class, and 5-Series all fall in the middle of their respective lines and as such seem to make up the most logical comparison.

    Anyway, after looking carefully at all 3, the decision was easy. Before even considering the huge price advantage, I liked the A6 the best. It's LOADED with little touches that are missing on the others, e.g. FULL instrumentation (including oil temperature gauge and voltmeter), door-mounted "puddle lights", front AND REAR seat heaters, the list goes on. Factor in quattro and price, plus the (in my opinion) most beautiful interior of just about any car, and it was a no-brainer.

    I ended up with an A6 2.8 quattro, Tiptronic, leather, moonroof, xenon headlights, steering wheel audio controls, Cold Weather Package (F+R heated seats, expandable ski sack), memory seats & mirrors, auto-dimming mirrors, HomeLink, for an M.S.R.P. of $40,550 including destination. I actually bought the car (brand new, on a special order from the factory) for $36,894 + tax & license.

    I've had the car for 4 months and have about 5200 miles on it. I've had NO problems and love the car in every respect.

    One last thing...there are many folks here on this forum who find the A6 2.8 to be insufficiently-powered. In the opinion of many, an A6 that isn't either a 2.7T or a 4.2 isn't worth owning. I strongly disagree with that point of view. Sure, if cost was no object I'd rather have one of the more powerful engines, too. For me, though, cost WAS an object. It was either a 2.8 or it wasn't going to be an A6. While the 2.8 will never be mistaken for a rocket, it does just fine in my book. I find it to be more than adequately-powered for all kinds of driving. Anyone for whom the added expense of a 2.7T or 4.2 is a deal-breaker should drive a 2.8 and then decide for themself whether or not it will work for them; it would be a big mistake to eliminate the A6 from contention just because the 2.7T and 4.2 are out of reach.

    Hope this helps. Anyone wanting more info on the A6 can feel free to send me an e-mail. In addition, there's a lot to be learned at the A6 forum at

    - Mike
  • I own a 2.7T, but I agree the 2.8 has it's place.

    If you want a luxury car for the luxury, the 2.8 will satisfy you. It is luxurious and has more get-up-and-go than the majority of cars out there.

    If you demand that your luxury car be a hotrod also, you need a 2.7T or 4.2. Not everyone needs this.

    It's important to remember the A6 is a luxury car first, and a performance car second (even the S4 is this way). So the performance is optional, the luxury isn't.

    I heard Audi was going to eliminate the 2.8 non-Quattro A6 in 2001 (in the US). I didn't look to see if that actually was the case. This would raise the base price of a A6 2.8 somewhat, assuming you weren't going to add Quattro anyway.
  • Hi all,

    I am thinking of buying my fathers 1998 Audi A6. It has 16k miles on it. A few months back, he had some electrical problems with the car. It took 3 trips for them to figure it out. Now it seems to be working fine.

    Anyway, I now have a Explorer which I would be giving up. I am just wondering how the A6 2.8 handles in the snow and the rain?

    Also, I thought the trunk was a bit small, i was wondering if most peeps thought it was sufficient for most activities
  • Hi all,

    I am thinking of buying my fathers 1998 Audi A6. It has 16k miles on it. A few months back, he had some electrical problems with the car. It took 3 trips for them to figure it out. Now it seems to be working fine.

    Anyway, I now have a Explorer which I would be giving up. I am just wondering how the A6 2.8 handles in the snow and the rain?

    Also, I thought the trunk was a bit small, i was wondering if most peeps thought it was sufficient for most activities, ie; skiing, long weekend trips etc.

    The other thing I was looking for was advice on Extended warranties. the car has 7 months left on the warranty and I can pick up an extended 5/50000 warranty for less then a grand. Is it worth getting?

    Any insight would be appreciated!
  • In a moment of stupidity, I lost my fuel tank cap. After backtracking and not finding it, I ran by a Wal-Mart store and purchased one that seems to fit well. I can screw the cap down tightly. The question is, do I need to replace it with a genuine Audi cap? The manual mentions the "definite click" that should be heard when replacing the original cap. I would appreciate anyone's thoughts about this. Thanks.
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