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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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    toddmodemtoddmodem Member Posts: 19
    I know this topic has been covered before, but I just started noticing the same sulphurous smell coming from our 2001 LX. Has anyone tried any of the exhaust additives out there? Wynn's Exhaust control? I know the Petro Canada gas I've been using is higher in sulphur than Shell, I'm wondering if switching would make a difference.

    Our van has 1,500 kms and other than that I couldn't be happier with our purchase, certainly a great value for the money.

    Cheers
    Todd
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    alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    Todd,

    Our MPV is at 15,000 km now and I have never noticed this smell. The van usually runs on gas from Petro Canada because their gas station is across the street from my place... I don't think this is the gas that causes the smell...
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    brmudabrmuda Member Posts: 50
    This is often caused by catalytic converters. It was a widely experienced prob with all makes when cat converters were first introduced. This is most noticeable during idle stops as opposed to while motoring down the road.

    I have never heard of funky gasoline causing this smell/problem. I would recommned that anyone having this problem, report back to your local dealer as I wouldn;t categorize this as "normal".

    By the way, I'm '00 ES MPV owner (for about 7 mos now) and we've never experienced this.

    Good luck & be sure to let the rest of us know if/when the egg smell gets diagnosed (and hopefully resolved for you).
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    bill124bill124 Member Posts: 246
    I'd like to know more about the tie rod problem. We do hear occasional clicking. I always thought that was the disc brakes, but maybe not.

    On the rotten egg smell, I recently smelled it on Friday night but don't ever recall smelling it before. I wonder if it does have something to do with the gas? Having been in the MPV board since 8/99, it's only now that I have read about the smell. Bought White LX 2/00, 10K miles on it.
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    waltb2waltb2 Member Posts: 9
    Anyone notice the engine idling high (2K RPM) on startup? I wait a minute for it to settle down and it doesn't. If put in R and back out to street it will then idle around 700RPM.

    Also a metallic vibrating sound when slowing down (like for a speed bump) and then accelerating?

    Minor things considering how great this car is. Got the infamous sheet of plywood in. Had it ripped into 3 pieces at the Depot. Still got the 8' part through the middle. Haven't found much that I can't fit in here.

    Love the folding seat. My 9 year old can pull the handles and make it disappear!
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    alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    Mine behaves exactly the same way: about 1,700-2,000 rpm when just started then drops to 700-1,000 when put in gear (even without releasing the brake - just depress the brake, shift the lever - RPM drops). Then it seems to stay at that level... I don't know if this is how it is supposed to be but this was brought up here before so I think this is more a rule than an exception...

    Didn't hear the sound when braking though (or maybe haven't paid my attention). How loud is it? My brakes are squealing quite a bit after I drove on parking brakes for quarter of a mile and maybe I just don't hear the other sound? :-)

    A question here. Could driving with parking brakes on for some 300 m at slow speed really glaze brake pads? Or is my noisy problem due to something else? I guess I'll have the shop work on the glazed brake pads soon anyway :-)
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    jglover97jglover97 Member Posts: 4
    Does any one know what is involved in taking off the roof rack? I bought a 2000 ES dealer demo with everything but the entertainment system and block heater. Hate the roof rack! My MPG also idles high on cold start up.
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I'd say that driving w/ the hand brake actuated would be a good way to glaze the shoes on the rear brakes. Of course, you can always deglaze them with a few good, abrupt stops...reverse works too, just don't do it on the express way...find a high school parking lot or something, lol. It that 300meters or 300miles?

    I believe Tboner1965 had a great solution to the idle issue, which involved a small copper cap with a hole drilled in it. I forget the size of the hole. Maybe he's lurking and can save me from disgrace here...

    On another note, I'm noticing a slight noise when braking (15,300miles) that sounds like folks' tie rod issue, and will be having it addressed at the next scheduled service in May.

    Happy motoring!

    --javadoc
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    tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    Can't sleep tonight.


    Check out one of the MPV threads, I put the Ray McNairy (RIP) Contour.org Throttle hang fix.


    You can see it at: http://contour.org/mods/showfaq.pl?howto/throttlehang


    image


    TB

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    alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    Hi TB,


    I just went to contour.org following your link above and bumped into another link discussing the Duratec engine premature water pump failure. It shows a recent survey (Jan 2001) of many cases of the water pump failing. Any insight on those in respect to MPV?


    For all of you wishing to read the stats, go here.

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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It just unscrews from the roof but then you are left with several nut-serts in the roof. I don't recommend it unless you like leaky bullet hole roofs.

    Another option:
    Record a looped tape that says, "I love my roof rack, I love my roof rack, I love my roof rack". Just turn that on every night as you go to bed and in one week your problems will be nonexistent.

    :)
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    tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    Yeah, at 50-60K you should start looking at replacing your waterpump as a preventative maintenance item.

    The first person to get to 60K should do this and then tell the rest of us if you have a plastic or metal impeller.

    It seems the plastic impellers break up and then don't pump water anymore.

    The good news is it is pretty easy to fix. There is a FAQ on that too.

    Cheers,

    TB
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Do you know the impeller's makeup (maybe it's Maybeline, har har)? Know if it's plastic or metal? Can I make a continuous loop MP3 that says "My H2Opump will last forever..." and play it in the garage for a week?

    TB, ja, but is it an expensive part? I know the one on my car (car, not mochavan) costs $600 (plus r&r). I'd suspect it'd be much much less expensive than that, just so's nobody gets nervous, lol. The pump on our A1 VW only costs about $60. I don't think that 60k is all that short of a lifespan for an H2Opump, it's just one of those things that wears out, but something to know about fersure. Like you said, chock it up to preventative maintenance.

    --java
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    and pictures don't do it justice. It appears to be the same one that they are using on the 3.0L Escape/Trib. Not sure if that helps, but you Ford junkies may be able to make sense of that.

    :)
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    tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    I don't think it will be $25 like the one I put on the Buick back in January, but I think they are sub $100. Maybe even sub $50 at some really discount auto parts places.

    I've heard that AutoZone sells one with a metal impeller.

    Not that metal is good. You know, different metals, aluminum and whatever that pump is made from could cause some other issues.

    But, I believe it is 4 to 6 bolts and you can change the belt and refresh your coolant while you are at it :)

    TB
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    You make it sound like cake. I show that it's 3.8hrs for R & R per the Mitchel guide. I'm not sure about you but my repairs never seem to go as quick as their estimates. Call me a weekend warrior if you will.

    :)
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Ja. A quicky peek at wrenchhead showed that waterpumps (for a number of 2.5-3.0 Liter Duratechs) runs between $40 and $100, Delco pumps are slightly more, dunno 'bout fomoco parts tho. So, nothing to worry about if these break on folks, imho. maltb, 3-point *what* hours for r&r? Wow, Ford's learning from Volvo on labor times, lol.

    Ne1 getting near this mileage that we can watch? I'm only just at 15,100, and doubt I'll see 60k on the MPV for 6 more years, if we keep the van that long. We're already talking of upgrading/trading if there's an awd model in the works.

    --j
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    tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    ... see this Contour.org FAQ


    http://contour.org/mods/showfaq.pl?howto/waterpump

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    fufamfufam Member Posts: 1
    I woke up this morning with white paint transfered (more like a "scratch and run") on the driver side sliding door, what would be the best way to get it off??? There is no dent..but it is about three feet long and 1/2 inch wide...Is rubbing compound the way to go??? Help.. my black 2000 lx looks like a Zebra...
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    blacklxblacklx Member Posts: 60
    I have a paint scrape across the front bumper and my 2000 LX is also black. Is there a mad owner of another van make going around "zebra izing" our vans?

    My dh was going to try rubbing compound but hasn't yet. Let me know what works for you.
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    you don't want to take off your paint. Use the least abrasive product you can find. Any good detailer would have a safe chemical alternative to abrasives. Go browse your local Pep Boys for something that claims to work.

    :)
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    brmudabrmuda Member Posts: 50
    I strongly suggest you NOT use rubbing compound. Most finishes nowadays have "clear coat" finishes which are not conducive to the abrasives in rubbing compounds unless you are a pro & have experience. To remove scratches & paint streaks (from another vehicle) try a cleaner wax (NOT just wax). There's several wax mfrs that make a good one. You'll get better results if you use a rotary buffer.

    Just trying to help you save those "clear coat" finishes.

    Good luck!!
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I'm with maltb and brmuda re: staying away from rubbing compound, it'll scratch your finish. I've removed *small* amounts of paint from rubs by using GoofGone and a soft rag. This isn't abrasive, mild, but it is pretty good. A large area like a three foot "racing" stripe would take alot of elbow grease with the GoofGone stuff. I'd call the pros for something this big, but that'll depend on your insurance deductible for comprehensives.

    Maybe some Mothers (brand) cleaner/cutter, but make sure they say that they're safe for clear coats, or you'll end up with a dull stripe instead of a white stripe.

    Luck!

    --javadoc
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    blondemom1blondemom1 Member Posts: 90
    I just got back from getting my 10th oil change, and the attendant said that my tires are worn. I have just turned 40,000 miles, have gotten them rotated fairly regularly, and stay up on the tire pressure. Is it really possible that these Dunlops have so little life? I usually get 60,000 miles or so on my tires.
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Mileage for any tire is going to vary on a lot of different things: road surfaces, city/hwy miles, temperatures. What's the wear rating on the OEM Dunlops (I've the Yokos)...and what's the tire model? Some car models are known for eating tires. I.e, our Volvo has a good appetite apparently, known for giving only 20,000 or so for a set of tires. Inversely our previous MPV was miserly, we had the same set of tires on it for 50k or so. Have you measured the tread yourself to confirm the diagnosis?

    Wow, 40k already. How'z the van holding up?

    --j
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I'm with you doc! I'm still in awe about the 40K on a 2k MPV! How did you rack up so many miles so quickly?

    As far as tire longevity goes, there are too many variables to determine if 40k is unacceptable. That's not unusual and factory tires and longevity are oxymorons.

    :)
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    blondemom1blondemom1 Member Posts: 90
    I've visually checked the tires myself (will have hubby look also when he gets home), and I don't think they look very worn. The treads are still fairly deep, and don't appear to be worn unevenly.

    The miles were easy for me. I've had the van for 16 months. Between taking the 2 kids to school in two separate trips, picking them up, then driving 40 miles round trip to work, shopping, a Florida trip in August, and taking my daughter to her 100+ softball games in the past year (all around midwest), it was a snap. This year will be no different. I had 28,000 in the first year and the per month total is still there. At this rate I'll have 100,000 miles in about 3 1/2 years. I'm glad we didn't lease it! :)
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    blondemom1blondemom1 Member Posts: 90
    The van is holding up great! I've had no problems with the van at all. I've had no accidents, gotten 2 door dings (which I try not to look at or think about), and get a consistent 20 mpg. Oh yeah, no tickets either. Them troopers can't ticket the ones they can't catch, right?
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    If you don't have a tread depth gauge, take out a penny and stick it in the tread. The official measurement is 3/32". From the top of the penny to Lincoln's hair is pretty close to that. If you are over his head(in an upside-down way), you should be fine.

    :)
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    msgjvhmsgjvh Member Posts: 196
    hey Blondemom I replaced my Dunlops at 16k because the wife broke a belt on one of them. I still have the other three in the garage if you need em. During my decisions I found out that the 4000's are a high performance tire. The tire shops were surprised to find them on a minivan. At that time they told me not to expect more than 40k from that tire since it was softer. Once I found out the replacement cost for just one was $140 bucks I changed all four for the price of two plus a little bit. If you like I can send you pics of the 4000's. They still have a lot of tread left.
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    rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    We received today at the dealership a new service bulletin pertaining to 2000-up mpg's that appear to be sitting lower on the driver's side. Apparently there is an issue with springs and it seems to be only with models that have as brakes. Call your dealer if you have concerns, as I have seen posts asking about this problem.
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    tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    I'm an all dunlop shop now with SP5000's on the Buick and the SVT Contour, and SP4000 on the MPV.

    However, I'd check with luke@tirerack.com. I just got 4 Dunlop SP5000 225/55ZR16's for the Buick for $104 each. These are an even higher performance tire, so they might have the MPV size for a bit less. Yes they do $89 for 215/60HR16's and $93 for 215/60VR16's for the SP4000 tires.

    Of course you need to take them somewhere for mounting and balancing. But if you have a good general mechanic you could get that done, w/o a visit to the local tire shop.
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    bill124bill124 Member Posts: 246
    Please retype your posting correctly. You say "only with models that have as brakes". This is unintelligible.
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    tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    It looks like the spell checker got you. Bad spell check!

    I think it changed MPV to mpg and changed "have ABS brakes" to "have as brakes"

    Is that what you meant to type?

    TB
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I'm with you on that one. I typically buy from Costco/Sam's Club and take the tires with me. If I'm too lazy to mount them myself, I take them to a buddy whom I trust. Just the fact that most tire yoyos run the lugs to 300ft/lbs and then try to torque wrench them to 90ft/lbs(go figure) is reason enough to do this. Seems that you can't go wrong with Tire Rack for selection and price.

    :)
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    rholtzclrholtzcl Member Posts: 1
    I've been letting the dealer do my 2000 MPV oil changes, but recently the cost has gone up $5.00. The reason is that Mazda is now specifying a thinner (5W20) oil because of a danger of the oil filter blowing off. Apparently this oil is not available in bulk, so it's more expensive. I've read some posts here where oil filters have blown off and resulted in seized engines. My problem is that I'm in the mid-south where temperatures can get pretty high, and I'm concerned about the long-term use of this oil. It seems like a "quick fix" to solve a basic design flaw. Any comments on this, and has anyone else been notified of the oil viscosity change?

    Thanks,
    Randy
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    From what I have read, the viscosity change was due to mileage issues, not filter problems. Other OEMs have gone the same route.
    Thinner oil = better mileage

    Question:
    Has anyone heard first hand of the factory filters blowing up? From what I understand, this has only been a an issue with the aftermarket filters(mainly Farm).

    :)
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I hear it is just Fram filters (don't buy fram...). I haven't seen any blow-off and I'm running 10/40 oil, no issues at all, on filter #6 now.

    --javadoc
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    is for the birds. Even the folks at Microsoft don't have it this bad.

    BTW, my previous post should have been FRAM not Farm.

    :)
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I thought you were just being punny, like Fram...the filters bought the Farm...

    8-P

    --javadoc
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    rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    gee bill-didn't mean to put you out- the service bulletin applies to 2000 mpvs with ABS brakes.
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Spell checker must be provided by Micro$oft. The MPG should be a new line of mega-SUV, as in poor MPG, or maybe GPM, yeah, that's it.

    Chuckles...

    --j
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    superbondosuperbondo Member Posts: 29
    Do they have a fix for it? by replacing the spring? Because mine is 2000 with ABS and sitting low on driver's side and also pulling on left side. I used to get real steamy about this problem but the van is holding up pretty well and so far it seems to be the only problem that bothers me so I like it more now. Anyway I'd appreciate info on how to get a copy of the service bulletin (on the web?) because when I tell the dealer something I see on the internet they would deny it.
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It is Service bulletin O2-003/01 dated 02/28/01 and unless you subscribe to Motor Information or another shop data service, you won't find it on the web.

    Just give them the bulletin number and they should be able to find it.

    :)
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    superbondosuperbondo Member Posts: 29
    Thanks. Since my dealer is not very friendly through no fault of my own, I would like to get as much info as possible. Is this a recall? Does it talk about a fix like replacing the spring? Or is it something they deem minor and not propose to do anything at all.
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It is not safety related and yes there are replacement front and rear springs involved with the fix.
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    So, what causes the lean? I would think some weight on the port side of the rig, but...only can think of *my* rear as being the heavy item on that side of the van. Really tho, just mis-spun springs, or is the MPV so sporty it is actually weight-jacked?

    -javadoc
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I'm a doctor not an engineer! Check with Scotty.

    I'm not sure why it only applies to ABS and I really don't want to take the time to find out, LOL, but if I hear a half decent explanation I'll let you know.

    One corretion to your post doc: Should that be the 'portly' side. HaHaHa. OK,OK, it's almost 5 and then I will regain my sanity.

    :)
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Hey, I resemble that remark!!! :-) Yeah, that's okay, I'm off to slay some King Salmon, so my mind's not working correctly anyways. Got a few 60qt coolers stashed in the back of the MPV and we're ready to head to the boat!

    -j
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    rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    I only looked at the bulletin briefly, but from what I remember reading is that the springs to be replaced were the ones on the passenger side of the vehicle only. This is only a service bulletin and not a recall. I will bring a copy home with me on Monday and and relay all vital info.
    (I hope this is somewhat intelligible for bill124)
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