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Dodge Intrepid



  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    The Intrepid and I have returned home in one piece, from our trip from MD to Texas, with no problems to report. I hit the 60,000 mile mark in Vinton, Lousiana, about 8 miles from the TX border. I'm pushing 62K now.

    Fuel economy was running around 27-30 mpg, and a good deal of that was with the air conditioner running. For the most part we did the speed limit or just a little above. Last year when I made my trip to Texas, I got a speeding ticket in Louisiana, that came out to about $190.00! Kinda negated the savings of driving versus flying ;-)
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    Speeding tickets are a bummer. I was lucky yesterday, somebody in an Audi A-4 was clogging up the left lane, so I could not go my normal 15 mph over the speed limit in my R/T. There was a speed trap just ahead, I should thank the female yuppie type for avoiding that ticket.

    My girlfriends are constantly amazed I avoid speeding tickets. Luck and learning where the cops hide are the key, I guess.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040 true! When I went through that same stretch of Louisiana, I (the town of Jennings, Jefferson Davis parrish), I made damn sure to stay right at the speed limit! Coming back home, I didn't have to worry because the road was down to one lane in each direction, and we were creeping along at about 5-10 mph for a good 30 minutes or more.

    It'll always be ingrained in the back of my mind though, when I make that trip home... When I see the old abandoned '56 DeSoto along the side of the highway, SLOW DOWN!! (It was there last year too, and might be the reason I got the ticket...might've been paying more attention to the DeSoto than my speedometer ;-)
  • skibbleskibble Posts: 4
    Helloe again everyone! Well, I have had my '99 base Intrepid for almost 3 weeks now and all seems copasetic (sp?). Hice ride! Good buy!

    The only problem I am experiencing seems to be coming from the vents. I do not seem to get any heat to blast out of the 4 main 'face' vents, even when I set the control to 'the little guy with the arrow pointing at him in the head'. Excuse the stupid question, but is this a problem? Do you think the hose came undone?

    A quick question pertaining to the stereo. The included CD player sound system isn't what I would call great. I want to put in my own from my Sentra, but is it a big job? It looks like a big job taking off all of that dash. Please let me know if any of you people have changed the radio in your Intrepids.

    On a last note, the mileage I am getting out of it is kinda scaring me. Mind you, I do a lot of city driving and had a Nissan Sentra before, so I am not used to a V6. Don't foget, to fill up my tank in Montreal, Canada, it costs about $ go figure! Highway driving is excellent with it, that's for sure.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    glad you like your Intrepid. So you don't get any heat from the upper vents? do you get it from the lower ones ? or the front window defroster vents on top of the dash. If you do then what your car may need is too have the heater/ac unit doors recalibrated. The doors on the unit are not controlled by cables like years ago , they use electric motors to open and close them.
    Gas milage , dont forget your trep is a little bigger than the Sentra 4 cyl you used to drive .
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    i'd say the trep is "considerably" larger than a sentra...
  • lee1nyclee1nyc Posts: 60
    The Accutire MS4000 is on sale at Sears for $16.99. The regular retail for this model is $32.99. They also have the less expensive models on sale for $9.99.

    The 4000 has an illuminated readout that measures in 1/2 lb increments.
  • lee1nyclee1nyc Posts: 60
    I had a question that you might be able to help me with. I own a '98 ES and it has been a real pleasure to own. Last summer, I noticed a slight hiss coming from behind the center A/C vent. It was only heard when the air conditioning was on. If you ran just the vent, or heat, there was no hissing sound. You would hear the sound of hissing for 5 seconds or so, and then it would stop. It also seemed to be triggered (maybe I am imagining this) after you accelerated, and let up on the gas, although if you were just idling, it seemed to cycle into this hiss mode occasionally.

    The car is on an extended warranty program of 60 months/72,000 miles. When I brought it to Dodge, the heard what I was talking about, even though it was very low. They changed the throttle body, but this did not solve the problem. It is not that serious a situation, but I am certain it was not there from the beginning.

    I posted this situation, and got some "hit or miss" suggestions. Some said that the evaporator needs to be replaced, and the system recharged with refrigerant.


    If you are able to help me out with any suggestions, I would be appreciative. The service manager at Royal Dodge (NJ) will do anything to help me out. (Great position to be in)

    Thanks again

  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380

    i know exactly what you are talking about. both my '98 and '00 intrepids made that noise when the a/c compressor cycled. i don't know if there is anything you can do about it. but, have your local dealership check for a technical service bulletin. i believe there is one.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380

    i found the tsb, here it is (cut/paste from nhtsa site)

    Technical Service Bulletins Summary

    Make: DODGE
    Model: INTREPID
    Year: 1998
    Service Bulletin Number: 241298
    Bulletin Sequence Number: 222

    Summary Description:

  • lee1nyclee1nyc Posts: 60
    Thanks emale. I will turn that info over to the service manager.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    you guys are quick . Good info emale
  • skibbleskibble Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply. Well, I do get heat from the tiny window vents. I also get a little from the foot vents, but not too much. The dash (window) vents blow like every setting. Recalibration? Wow...better bring it back before the 10th of April! Thanks for the advice.

    How would they slip off out of calibration?
  • lasher5lasher5 Posts: 22
    My brother left his 01 Intrepid SE at my house while he is on vacation. I took it for a spin yesterday and was pleasantly surprised by the ride and handling. I'm one of those camcord owners and haven't bought domestic for 18 yrs. The car rode well on the highway and tracked straight and true and there were no rattles or squeaks. However, my brothers car is exhibiting the same problems that the Edmund's long term Intrepid did. The drivers seat seems loose, the weather striping is coming off around the doors, the rear pax door is misaligned and the paint job on the rear drivers side inside door shows drips and runs. All of these defects were on Edmunds 98 Intrepid which leaves me wondering if Dodge ever lets the factory know about warranty work done and do they try to correct these problems. I made sure the registration was for a 01 model. Other than the items noted, the car is very pleasant except for road noise and a hoot noise which sounds like the power steering pump when the car turns at speed. Any advise for my brother when he returns for the car?
  • lexus_onelexus_one Posts: 22
    Show your brother some tough love and instruct him to dump the Intrepid for a "foreign" product and he will soon thank you for steering him in the right direction.
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90

    You mean the foreign products built in the U.S.?

    You mean the foreign products that cost more $?

    You mean the foreign products that seem to be less efficient in terms of fuel economy?

    You mean the foreign products that take premium fuel to get all that horsepower they advertise?

    You mean the foreign products that cost more to insure because they cost more to repair when you wreck them and cost more to replace when they're stollen?

    You mean the foreign products with no leg room, trunk space, headroom, etc.?

    You mean the foreign products that never break? But then when they do break, you have a massive towing bill because the nearest dealer is 75 miles away. And when you get there, the service writer has such a high opinion of his product that he is certain that it must be your fault that the car broke, and therefore you're scum. And by the way, it takes three days to get the part from California, so you rent a car to get home.

    Been there, done that, and I used the t-shirt to wipe up the oil stain the foreign product left in my garage.

    There is just no discernable difference between "foreign" cars and "domestic" cars except perception and status. I paid $22,000 for an Intrepid ES. I'll spend some money on maintenance and it might break once or twice. I'll drive it 125,000 miles and trade it in. My experience will probably be about the same as your experience with your Lexus. How much did you pay for your car?

    Pick what you like, and what you can afford, take good care of it, and enjoy it.
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    On a more productive subject: a while back I asked for opinions on oil filters. The first oil change on my wife's ES 3.2L was done by the dealer. Mopar filter (by the way, the manual specifies 10w30 for this engine--interesting).

    I did the next two with Purolator Plus filters (3,000 mile drain intervals). The engine developed a mild tap in the passenger-side head, opposite the filter. I read all of the posts in the oil filter board. Not much help in terms of brands, but my reading did help me understand how a filter is constructed. I found that the anti-drain back valve in the Purolator filter is in a different location in the filter than that of the Mopar filter. In addition, the Mopar filter uses a silicone valve, whereas the Mopar filter uses a metal valve.

    I bought a Mopar filter from the dealer ($6.50 vs. $2.50 for the Purolator) and put it on at the last oil change. The valve tap at start up disappeared. The Mopar filter also has a 96% single pass efficiency. I am sure the Purolator filter is a fine filter, but the problem appears to be that the oil was draining out of the filter at night.

    Now if I can only find a source other than the dealer for Mopar parts.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    but I'm just using a Fram ExtraGard filter I picked up at Trak Auto. I'm going to listen tomorrow morning, when I start the car cold, to see if I notice any tapping. I've never noticed any before, but then I haven't been looking for it either. Maybe it's a 3.2-only occurence? I remember Emale mentioning it, but he always bought ES models with the bigger engine, while I just have a 2.7.

    A 2.7 with 62,000 troublefree miles, I might add ;-) (okay, okay, I've had a few minor problems, like the door seals shrinking, power lock actuator going bad, right-side mirror adjuster breaking)
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    all of my es models (96, 98 and 00) had the lifter tap at cold startup even when a mopar filter was used...
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    My concern is that the 3.2L shouldn't have a lifter tap, because it doesn't have lifters. It has a cam at the top of each head driving the valves. If you have the 2.7L, it has two cams at the top of each head, one driving the intake valves and the other driving the exhaust valves. Either way there shouldn't be a tap. A tap means no oil where there should be oil.

    Fortunately, the right filter seems to have taken care of the bulk of the problem. I hear a faint tap, but I doubt I would notice it if I weren't listening for it. Probably no worse than any other car I have. What I was experiencing was pretty loud and lasted for up to 5 seconds.
  • lexus_onelexus_one Posts: 22
    MD: Quite a sermon, your wife's name must be Tammy?

    The foreign product I referred to is the group that is showing increased market share whereas the home grown variety continues on the decline. The Intrepid might be classed as partly foreign , Daimler is non American correct and I do believe they are hammered together in Canada, a foreign country correct?
    My experience with the home growns taught me the lesson that it takes more than one tee shirt to clean up their leftovers.

    Do have a good dey, and happy motoring with your so called home grown variety.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380

    an edmunds test intrepid and usatoday test intrepid also had tapping at cold startup. seems to be quite common with 3.2l and 3.5l engine. btw, chrysler tech at local dealership said not to worry about it. he also mentioned that as far as he knew, there had never been a 3.2l or 3.5l in for a valve job at his dealership...fwiw.
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90

    You seem to have a habit of insulting people in this forum. Funny how some people resort to that when they post statements they can't back up and someone comes along and disagrees with them.

    As for market share, competition has far more to do with the market share loss of the big three than any perceived problems with quality. Give consumers more choices and it is very possible they'll choose from the newcomers at some point.

    Prior to 1970 there was very little to choose from that wasn't engineered and built in the U.S. except for the higher end European cars. What turned the tide was the Japenese manufacturers building cars marketed to the masses. They were the first to truly compete with the big three. I think competition has raised the bar for the consumer and has been good for the auto industry too.

    But remember, while Chrysler (in particular) may have had its problems in the 70s, are you sure you want to compare it with what Honda, Toyota, and Datsun were building back then?

    And one other point: Your Lexus, while solidly engineered I am sure, is still engineered in a country that has been in an economic recession for the better part of 10 years. I am just not as convinced as you about the superiority of a "foreign" car.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380

    your wasting your time with so and so. we've got several of em' around here (or is it just one?). anyhoo, enjoy the trep...
  • Hi! I am a freshly baked owner of Chrysler Intrepid 2000 and, well, not a very smart but lucky buyer. Lucky is a hopeful modifier here scince I really do not want to think about how come that being such a big fan of rear-wheel-drive, and an owner of Mercury Cougar 95, I got into very much fwd car. Anyway my first hours of driving my R/T edition of Canadian build and previously registered Chrysler would be really enjoyable if I'd stop comparing my so much familiar Cougar and a new acquisition.
    Granted that it was needed and hopefully smart move economically since my aging (just 82K) Cougar began disintegrating on me part by part, in spite of religious and meticulous maintenance.
    Strangely enough, I was shopping for Crown Vic, when I came across this nice, black R/T. I decided to give it a try that somehow turned into an extended one. So here I am, nosing cab-forward into your discussion in an attempt to determine what should I look for in terms of preventive and regular maintenance.
    As I said, the car is 2000 and has 16K on it. I checked the seams thoroughly and it seems that the last weld the car seen was the factory. Pads were a little bit lower on the front-about 50%, and 70% on the rear. I do not think it is indicative of anything but the fact that this car cab-forward and fwd design is probably resposible for uneven distribution of the breaking weight or excessive nosing. At the same time, I did not notice any excessive nosing in my first hours and actually was quite impressed by the predictable and assuring manner in which the car stops.
    If anyone has feedback on that, I would greatly appreciate it. In fact, I would greatly appreciate any feedback and advice as to my newly acquired R/T.
    Well, so long. I am off to the NTSA site, fingers crossed on feet and hands.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    I think that your front brakes are going to wear out faster in ANY car, not just a cab-forward design. When you come to a stop, the weight shifts towards the front, putting more pressure on the front brakes. I don't know if this is indicative of everybody else, but here's at least one reference point. I got 39,000 miles out of my front pads, and 51k out of the rear pads on my '00 base model.

    I don't know if the brakes on the Intrepid R/T are upgraded from the base model or not. I'd imagine they would be, since the R/T has a much torquier engine, which will take more energy to slow down. I just checked the weights, and according to Edmund's, the base model weighs 3471 lb and the R/T weighs 3511 lb, so I think the added weight would be a negligible factor.

    A couple other maintenance reference points...In spite of what the owner's manual says, I needed new spark plugs at 51,000 miles. Also had the tranny serviced at 30K. I'm about to put the car in the shop next week to have my mechanic go over it. I just changed my oil and rotated my tires last night, and noticed that it's wearing the front driver's side tire unevenly, so I guess it's alignment time! I figure I'll have the mechanic fix the alignment and do whatever else it might need.
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90

    I couldn't stand it. As a marketing guy, getting a lesson in market share from our friend just rubbed me the wrong way. I couldn't let it go. Please accept my apologies if I wasted anyone else's time (in addition to my own).

    One last point and I will let it go: Honda, Toyota, and Nissan are losing market share to Kia and Hyundai. Hmm.
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    My ES is the first car I've owned with front and rear disc brakes. I now also own a Chevy TrailBlazer with the same setup. I'll be watching wear between front and rear brakes carefully.

    However, on my many other cars, with front disc and rear drum, I typically replaced front brakes twice for every rear brake replacement. I am not a physics expert, but stopping a car is simple physics: the front is the most efficient point to stop a car because most of the weight is on those tires in a panic stop (the car is heavy in the front to start with, and then weight transfers to the front as friction is applied there to stop it). If more pressure were applied to the rear brakes, the weight would still transfer to the front (perhaps less of it, but it still will transfer) and the rear wheels would lock up and loose grip because of the lack of weight resting on them compared with the front. Applying more braking power to the front wheels gets you better stopping effectiveness, but it comes at the expense of wearing the front brakes out faster.

    I do, however, expect the disc brakes on the rear to be more effective than the old drums, so it stands to reason that I may not get the 2 to 1 replacement ratio I was getting out of the disc front drum rear setup. I think someone else has already posted their experience on that point.
  • lexus_onelexus_one Posts: 22
    mdey: Sorry if I touched a fragile spot.
    As a marketing guy you should learn how to read and absorb what is written, what part of my post was insulting? You were the one to start with the sermon, sometimes one has to take what one gives.
    I am sure as a marketing guy you are well aware that competition is not the only factor involved with the market share decrease of the big three.

    As a marketing guy you should be aware that quality perceived or real play a big part in retaining market share.

    As a marketing guy you should be aware that after sale service plays a big part in retaining repeat costomers thus retaining market share.

    I agree Daimler chrysler is a much better company that the former Chrysler Corp. They are a much better organization to deal with and their product will benefit from the German influence, however the results of the years of neglect and indifference shown by the previous administration will take time to overcome.
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