I have seen this car on several lots here in southern Cal. They are beautiful and a popular color here. The interior is a grey green much like the exterior color. My wife has a "granite green" 2000 Honda Odyssey with virtually the same color combo and loves it. HTH.
I just purchased a black 2000 3.2TL. The purchase experience was (relatively) painless and the negotiation was professionally done. All in all I was pleased with the experience, with one exception. After we agreed on a price, I was passed on to the person whose duty it was to explain warranties, etc. and, most importantly, to try to sell me dealer accessories such as undercoating, mud flaps, etc. etc. (my salesman had thrown in floor mats and wheel locks).
I am conditioned to reject all such offers with their high markups and hard selling techniques. The person made the most effort to sell a "paint protection" process, first at about $575. When I rejected that out of hand, she immediately retreated to about $275, which I still rejected. Her line was that with dark colors, especially, the four-hour process is an indispensable guarantee against paint problems.
It so happens that the salesman, who I thought treated me very well, had mentioned that the paint protection was one "accessory" that really did make sense.
I am finicky about the maintenance of a car's exterior in general, but I don't want to overpay for maintenance that I can easily do myself or have done more cheaply elsewhere.
Unfortunately I don't recall the details of the process she proposed, but I would be interested in opinions on whether some sort of special protective treatment for a new (black) car is worth paying a dealer to perform.
My instinct on things like this (and undercoating) is that Honda/Acura would simply not build a car whose paint would deteriorate noticeably (or whose undercarriage would rust) with ordinary care.
I read a while back that several of you were experiencing a problem with TL windshields that developed verticle streaking and were difficult if not impossible to keep clean.
Having just recently purchased a new TL, I have not yet experienced this problem but I would like to point out that this problem is not uncommon to many car manufactures today. I would like to offer some ideas on windshield treatments that have worked for me in the past.
To clean your windshield, use a product called Bon Ami Powder. This is a mild cleanser designed to clean stainless steel and is safe for use on glass. This product was actually recommended by one of the big three in a TSB for cleaning windsheids with this very problem. This product when used with water will remove contaiminants such as dirt, oils, and road tar that can accumulate on a windshield durng normal driving eventully affecting visability and wiper efficiency. I recommend cleaning the windshield during normal hand washing. Start by rinsing the entire vehicle. Sprinkle some Bon Ami powder directly on the windsheild and work into the entire windshield in a circular motion with a damp spong re-wetting as needed. Once you have covered the entire windshield, rinse with water and a clean spong. Thorougly rinse the windshield and surrounding painted surfaces before proceeding with the car wash since this could scratch the paint. You should be left with a winsheild that sheets water. If you have water beads, you still have contaiminants. Repeat the process. Once complete, follow with your normal wash process.
Another product that I have had a great deal of success with over the years is Rain X. This product cleans and protects your windsheild. It goes on like a wax and cleans and seals the pores in the glass creating a super slick surface where water beads up and flows off the windshield. In a rain storm while driving at spead, I have found that you may not even have to use your wipers. One tip, when removing this product after application, use a soaking wet spong or paper towel and follow immediately with a dry towel.
To post #150, I bought the Laguna Green 2000 TL specifcally because I liked the fern green leather. Everyone who has seen it really likes it. The outside color isn't bad either! You won't be sorry.
We got a response from Acura on the cause on probable solution for this problem. Check out the TL windshield topic for the details. (Read post #21 first, then back up and read #20.)
The Accord has been changed slightly for 2001, and the EX V6 is very similar to the 2001 Acura 3.2 TL. They've added side airbags, a standard in-dash CD changer with 6 speaker sound system, a 4-way power passenger seat, and Traction Control to the EX V6. They've also added tons of padding to block out the road noise, from the floor boards, doors, roof and trunk, which make sit a lot quieter. 16 inch wheels are an option, and so are fog lights. The only differences I can see are as follows:
TL Has: - 25 extra horsepower - larger engine by 0.2 liter - 5 speed automatic - HID lights - Optional Nav - Heated Seats - Heated Mirrors - Outdoor thermometer - 5 speaker sound system with built in subwoofer - Standard 16 inch wheels - optional trunk mounted CD changer - better warranty
EX V6 has: - in dash CD changer - 6 speaker sound system - folding rear seat - More passenger room - More trunk room - Optional 16" wheels - Optional fog lights
These two cars are a very close comparison. The TL is generally around $5000 more without the Nav. Has anyone else had problems deciding between the 2001 Acura 3.2 TL and the 2001 Honda Accord EX V6? I know I have.
I figure if you don't want the headed seats, heated mirrors, and the Nav, then you can get the after market HID headlights for about $1200 installed, and get the optional 16 inch wheels for the EX V6, and you've pretty much equaled the TL, except for the extra 25 horses.
I suppose it comes down to wanting those extra features or not, and the slightly more powerful engine/transmission combo. It is also debatable if the resale value will hold better on the EX V6 or on the TL.
Before we overstate, the TL is $3890 more than the Accord.
Break down the following, and what it would be worth to the buyer wanting the added power/ameneties:
3.2L with 25 more hp 5-speed automatic with sport shift HID lights Heated seats and mirrors Sportier suspension overall better warranty
and those items that meant a lot to me but may not to others:
rear heat/AC ducts - my passengers thank me regularly electrochromic mirror - priceless, but can be bought cheap aftermarket
Now I would love the 6-CD in-dash, but had to do a changer instead. Folding seats mean nothing to me, as my other vehicle is a Suburban.
In a nutshell, I love them both. i bought a '99 EX-V6 Accord after shopping them both. The price diff just wasn't worth it. Then I went back and drove the TL again. Little things that aren't readily apparent come out. The steering wheel is beefier and softer, the seats are more comfortable (subjective, I know), the interior is more upscale, the outside treatments like polished exhaust tips and chrome handles are very nice, the car is sleeker in appearance, it handles MUCH better, the sport shift really does help in descending the mountain road to my house, etc, etc.
We bought the TL after the Accord, owning both for about 3 or 4 months. The longer we owned them both, the greater the differences became. Needless to say, we sold the Accord.
I have ordered a 3.2TL and I am considering getting more aggressive lower profile, wider tires than comes standard on it. My dealer says it would cost $1500 to $2000 to change them out but that is at the dealership. Is this reasonable? Do I need to change the wheels themselves to get lower profile? Does anyone have experience with this?
Neither am I. I probably like the added fullness of the sub in the TL, but they both need a speaker upgrade to shake the mud out of the sound. Given a nice set of Boston Acoustics, I think the TL has more potential. Just my $.02.
I have a 2000 Laguna Green TL with the fern interior. I love the interior because it doesn't show dust as much as the black interior and it doesn't show dirt like parchment interior does.
I test drove both of these (2000's) before buying a TL. I agree with glengle's assessment -- but luckily, I noticed most of the differences during the initial test drives.
The TL ride seemed smoother, the transmission was smoother, the handling was smoother, acceleration was smoother... see a pattern here? Something about the interior of the TL just seemed more refined; the Accord's controls in particular struck me as sort of Fisher-Price-ish.
I don't think the Accord was a bad car, and I think that if the TL is putting you at or over your budget, you would do fine with an Accord. (If that's the case, I personally would suggest also checking out the Nissan Maxima if you haven't done so already. The price falls in between the two, but I felt it was a nicer car than the Accord.)
I'm getting ready to purchase TL but still undecided about interior color. Aside from subjective preference - is parchment too much of a pain to keep clean? What are some maintenance tips for leather. How about black in terms of heat (I live in So CA). Which tends to wear better over time (I plan to keep the car for about 6-7 years). I haven't seen Laguna Green yet but read previous post regarding this color.This is my first foray into leather interior and I thank you in advance for any feedback.
The decision was hard and long but I finally gave in to the Laguna Green with the Fern Green leather and you know it really looks good. The exterior color hides dirt very well, interior color helps to keep the interior cool during hot days. Tints also makes a big difference, just got my car tinted this past weekend. Burlwood accents highlights fern color interior. Anyone pondering purchasing this color, don't worry you won't be disappointed.
I am this close to purchasing an new Acura 3.2 TL. Recently a friend expressed concern about the car's excessive body roll in turns and thinks I should be looking to buy a Lexus IS or ES 300. I did not notice this in my test drives. Has anybody experienced this? Thanks.
The ES leans even more, from my experience. The IS is a crisper handling car, but doesn't even compete in the same niche with the TL. Depends on what you want. If you want a rougher ride but sportier handling, and don't mind giving up back seat space and amenities, check out the IS. Get ready to shell out more $$ though.
I have really panned the NAV system in the past because of the poor level of detailed coverage of the DVD system. That will change dramatically with the release of the update due any day now. I checked with Acura to make sure my local area is covered before ordering the new DVD and they sent me a 25+ page FAX listing the areas covered. It had three single-spaced columns of listings per page. I estimate that local coverage areas have increased from the paltry 100+ to somewhere around 3000. The FAX quality was too poor to scan and after I found my area listed, I dumped it, so please don't contact me to find out if your area is listed. The update sells for $152, including shipping. You can find links to buy it online at www.acura.com
Owned 2000 Laguna Green/Fern 3.2 TL w/Navi and loved it. Unfortunately a 16 yr old took that car out of commission and have placed order for 2001 Laguna Green/Fern TL. Sorry, but anyone who has children could not appreciate the beauty of the parchment interior. It shows dirt more easily and especially those nasty crayon/pencil marks that drive my loving spouse nuts.
Ronig...I gotta agree with Glengle. IS DOES handle much better than the TL but get ready to re-wrok your kidneys..the ride is tight and stiff; a far cry from enjoying that weekend drive. I've heard that replacing the stock rubber with a softer compound would drastically improve handling...these Michelin Energys just don't cut it! And it doesn't help that these darn tires are sure noisy on concrete roadways!
I was coming down an off ramp that does a full 270, and the tires howled at the bottom where the radius of the turn decreaseds fairly rapidly. I was wishing for my Potenza S-02's from the S2000 about that time.
On a recent 10 day vacation to the Canadian Maritime provinces from the Toronto area, we travelled 3136 miles, averaging 34 miles/us gal (42 miles/Imp gal). This was approx 95% highway miles at 65 to 75 MPH. I believe the fifth gear was a benefit to this. At 75 MPH, the tach showed 2000 RPM, and 1780 RPM at 68 MPH. We felt the seats were very comfortable with a nice quietness even at the 75 MPH, with only tire and road noise coming into the interior, depending on the type of paving. The first day, we spent 11-1/2 hours on the road. The last day, it was 12 hours. We were impressed. I used anywhere from 87 to 91 octane fuel with an average of 89. Great performance although I am not a leadfoot. Are there any better averages than this? The car had only 3133 KM (1946 miles)on it at the start of the trip - hardly broken in!!
Those are definitely the hardcore TL fanatics on that site. Pretty outrageous. The gas mileage is all over the map. 35 mpg with 225hp is very impressive. It's hard to drive an entire tank downhill.
My TL is approaching 4000 miles, and I still average right around 19 MPG. My driving is almost all in the city. But even on a couple of longer trips, I only averaged about 23-24. Granted, my average speed was probably closer to 90 than 70, but I just don't see how I could ever get to the 30+ mileage numbers that I've seen reported around here.
Fruthermore, I don't understand how you can keep this car under 70 on a freeway. If I just look at the gas pedal, it accelerates to 80! I'd practically have to keep one foot on the brake pedal (which I see all too many people do) in order to drive between 65 and 70.
Which brings me to my next point: why do you buy a car with 225 HP if you're going to drive it the same way you would drive a Geo Metro or Ford Aspire? It seems to me that part of the fun in owning this car is its ability to blow the doors off a Mustang GT at a stoplight, or accelerating past a group of slower moving cars to get to open road on the freeway!
Thank you! I am aware of the site you mentioned. It's great. I have read all the posts. It is very imformative on possible mod(s) and technical tips. Perhaps, all 3.2 TL owners should check it out. BTW/it is grape and winemaking season - I'm busy!!
I agree that it is hard to keep the speed down on this machine. However, it was a vacation trip. It saved on fuel and tires and I did not have to worry about "Johnny Law". No, I did not ride the brake pedal. I bought this car for comfort and good fuel economy as long as I did my bit by using a "feather foot" on long stretches of highway. Quoting from a book - "make time good" and "the car you look after today will look after you tomorrow". Also, if I wanted to race, I would go to the track - I'm not a boy racer. My point in my post was to inform others on the possibilities with this car - my city driving only gives 28/MPG (Imp). Need I say more?
We've had our '00 TL DWP for nine months and 9500 miles. Absolutely ZERO problems including rattles (knock on plood). The car is great to drive and I still get excited when I get behind the wheel. We considered the Passat, the I30, and Audi before we purchased the TL. I recommend it.
I have had my Acura 3.2 TL 2000 since January. Its been a wonderful car so far, I have enjoyed it very much and think the navigation unit is terrific. I have a very important question however... I took my car to the Acura dealer and asked them to wax the car to prep it for the winter. I asked what sort of wax they would use and they said" the acura recommended wax". They also said they would vacuum the inside and clean the interior of the windows with windex. When I got my car back, I found that they had coated all the seats and dash with a shiny slippery substance that made all the surfaces black and shiny. My experience tells me this is Armor All coating every non-glass surface of the inside of my car. Now the seats are extremely slippery and no longer feel like leather. They feel like plastic since they are coated with whatever they used. What is the long term effect on the leather and dash board material? I have heard that Armor all is bad for material since it does not let it breath, outgases silicon that re-deposits on the glass and in my own lungs as I drive the car. What are my options to make the car like it was before? I dont like the feel of the seats now and the steering wheel feels slippery in my hands! HELP!!!
too bad about the armor all. It prob. is armor all or a similar silicon based product. I don't know why people in the car business continue to use such products on the interior of cars. Somehow making evryhting shiny and slick is a good thing?
This same thing happened to a Lexus that I own. The detail place put this stuff all over the leather and plastic surfaces in the car. It made evrything feel oily.
The good news is that it prob did not do any permanent damage to your interior. Over time armor all looses its gloss and the leather and vinyl should return to its original softness. On my Lexus it took a few weeks for the gloss and oiliness to disappear.
To take care of the damage immediately I used some Lexol leather cleaner, conditioner and Lexol vinylex. take a bucket of warm water (use sparingly), Lexol leather cleaner, and several soft cotton cloths to get as much armor all off as possible. Your leather should look much better after this. Then be sure to apply conditionier to the leather. Lexol condiitoner does not dry slick and glossy like armor all. I used vinylex on the vinyl dash and back parts of the seats. Vinylex is a bit glossy but nothing like armor all. vinylex is supposed to protect the vinyl w/ UV filters and moisturizers. Finally, you should write a letter to your dealer and let them know that you really did not appreciate the "detail" job they did on your car. I would hope that they would offer to comp your next req. service AND more importantly stop using this stuff on customers' cars.
My Laguna 00 TL has graciously hit 3866 miles in over 7 months now. I have been on the Infiniti I30 boards lately, since I have been experiencing a problem with my '97 I30 vibrating, and the horrible service at my dealer (which says the 1980's 4-cylinder Camry-like vibration is normal to all I30s). If I show them the difference between my I30 and a 2000, they claim they dont feel the horrible vibration in my car (they are obviously lying). Then I take a ride in my TL, and NOW i realize the difference of how much of a better car the TL is vs. the I30. I received a 2000 I30 loaner, and parked it side-by-side my 2000 TL. They look fairly similar...the doorhandle assembly looks almost identical, almost as if they were out-sourced from the same supplier. Anyhow, the steering wheel is so much thicker in the TL, and the car is VERY smooth on both the highway and in city driving. The handling is far better, and the seating is very nice. The car behaves like a V8, very smooth and very powerful. I, like almost everyone here, am surprised to believe that I reach 45 mph so quickly, and sometimes i dont realize it until i look and I'm going 55! Then of course, I have to slow down to 45 (So that i can avoid getting another ticket in this car). For all those of you out there who cant decide between an I30 and a TL, just pick the damn TL, you know its the best move!
The test driving is really amazing. The service is wonderful. I'm at Dallas/Fort Worth area and fortunately there are four Acura dealers here. Two months are spent upon researching on internet before going to do test drive and negotiate pricing. The more you've prepared, the easier the deal could be. Believe or not, none of them evey tries to show me the features of the car. They all say that you must know everything already.
The price is un-believable. I promised to the dealer that I would not spead the detailed prices. Anyway, I went through this topic from part 1 through part 5 and never see such a wonderful deal. The loan is another miracle: I got it from my credit union, 6.95% over 60 month. After I told the financial manager about this, he even never tries to persuade me for financing from his side.
Just want to share my pleasure with all you guys. And thanks for all the posts. Before I post more details, I would like to make sure that it would help some guys here. Let me know.
I don't understand why Acura hasn't added some of the CL options to the 2001 TL. First off, where is the TL-S, the memory seats, 6 disc changer, etc. The price has gone up for 2001 with no changes to the car from 2000. Don't get me wrong, I love the TL, but this car, which is still selling like hot cakes while the CL's aren't moving at all should have these CL amenities. This car needs a 5 or 6 speed manual since the auto is rough and quirky. Honda makes an awesome manual tranny, but is still lacking in the automatics. It also needs to handle better. I've almost lost this car several times around the corners and the squeeling from the tires just annoys the heck out of me. It's still a great car and nothing compares for the $$$, but drive a CL-S and you'll be a little disapointed getting back into your TL.
OK. I am getting a CL-S and carving two more doors in the back
Seriously, I also don't understand why Acura is dragging its feet, not adding features that should have been there in the first place. Competitors aren't going to wait.
As you say, competitors will not wait. But, it is possible that Honda isn't, either. They may be testing the reception of the current product, to be sure that the other version sells. Just guessing, of course.
Well recommended for performance freaks: Comptech exhaust system for 3.2TL. Just got mine installed yesterday, it was expensive but well worth it. Probably only got about a 5 bhp gain but the tips look a lot better in the back and it sounds alot nicer now. Its got a deep bassy note to it. In the next couple of months, probably going to spring for the Comptech headers for about $1100 which add about 30-35 peak BHP.
You answered your own question.. "this car, which is still selling like hot-cakes...". Acura has a winner on their hands and people are still buying them.. So, with the new MD-X coming out and with the new Integra coming out soon, why spend the time to mess with the TL now?? I'm sure they have some contract with Alpine and bought a s***-load of the single-feed CD players.. That's probably why they didnt change to the 6 disc changer (even the new ACCORD has the 6 disc!) I was very disappointed with the lack of changes to the new model, but ya know what-- i'm getting ready to buy a new car now and will probably still get the TL. Of course, I'll probably kick myself when the re-skin and 'type-s' come out next spring... But, i'ts time to say good-bye to my Integra...
I have been in the market for an entry-level luxury sports sedan for under $35K. I have driven the IS300, I30-T, TL, CL-S, 325, and Maxima (all auto). Here are my thoughts:
Handling: In terms of cornering, the 325 was best with the IS second. The rest were all a notch below with the CL probably third. Acceleration had the CL-S first followed by the Maxima, TL, then the IS. The 325 and I30 were noticeably slower. This surprised me about the I30 cause on paper it should be right up there. The I30 transmission seemed very lethargic. In braking, the IS was clearly the best with the Max and I30 the worst. The others were about the same. The smoothest ride came from the I30 and TL (which probably explained their poor cornering compared to the stiffer I30 and 325). The best blend of smooth ride and cornering probably came from the CL-S.
Interior: I’ll stop including the Maxima cause it was really no comparison to the others. The only reason I drove it was because I have a 95 Max now and like it very much. I just wanted to give them a chance. The most roomy and comfortable interior was the I30 followed by the TL. The others lacked some room and comfort. The stereo and A/C console on the I30 is just like the Max’s so that was a major turn-off. But the seats were plush and there was lots of room in back and front. The IS’s interior was neat, but not exactly the one I’d want on a long trip. Ditto for the 325. I did not get the “cheap” impression of the TL that many people have expressed. I thought it was very comfortable and roomy.
Exterior: This is a close one. I like the edgy styling of the IS, the modern Euro looks of the 325, the conservative and classy look of the Acuras and I30. I guess this is personal opinion and depends on what you want the car to do. The head turner is the IS or maybe the 325. The one you want to pick clients up in would be the TL or I30. I really like the IS, 325, and I30 better than the Acuras.
Value: Of course the TL and CL win here and the 325 is the clear loser. The I30 and IS are good values but the TL/CL are off the scale.
Overall: Sticking to my criteria of $35K and under really hurt the BMW’s chances. The 330 would have likely ranked better in acceleration and overall interior. But then you would have to throw in the new C-class, Audi’s, and the GS 300. I guess the winner depends on what you value more: interior, handling, value, or exterior styling. I’m can’t decide myself. If you are a value shopper, the Acuras will be hard to beat. Those that cherish roomy and comfortable interiors may favor the I30 or TL. If you want acceleration, the Max or CL may be the one. If handling is your cup of tea, then the IS and 325 will fit the bill. I’m still grappling with this decision for myself. Of course, intangibles come into play like proximity of the dealer, maintenance costs, reliability (or the perception of good reliability), and the relationship with the salesperson/dealer. Some days I say “The TL is too cheap to pass up” and other days I say “Take a chance and get the IS”. I’ll let you guys know what I decide in about a week or two.
The 2000/2001 TLs have the exact same 16" wheels including size/shape/design/weight.
The ONLY difference between the 2000/2001 models is that floormats are standard (big deal!!!) - which anyway was thrown in by my dealer along with wheel-locks. Also, they have included a trunk release from inside. Everything else is embarassingly IDENTICAL.....
I expected memory seats/mirrors and also the 6-disc in-dash CD changer since it was already there in the CL/CL-s but they have not included it.
I guess that would ensure than my 2000TL would be the "latest version" for one more year.
Actually, the tire size that would retain the stock tire/wheel combination diameter the best would be the 225/55 R-16. In fact, Michelin themselves recommend this size for the 2000 TL in their site.
This is the way it is calculated.
The first figure (225,205 etc) is the wheel width in millimeters.
The 2nd figure (55,60 etc) is the aspect ratio, i.e., the ratio of the sidewall height to the width.
The 3rd figure is the wheel diameter (16,17 etc)
The overall diameters of various sizes on the stock rims (16 X 6.5) are as follows:
205/60R-16 - 652.4 mm 225/55R-16 - 653.9 mm 225/50R-16 - 631.4 mm 215/55R-16 - 642.9 mm
Thus the 225/55R-16 has the diameter that is closest to the stock tire/wheel combination since the difference is only 1.5 mm.
Hope this helps.... Let me know if you need to know anything more...
Also, your speedometer would be inaccurate by about 1 mph when you are going at 120 mph with the 225/55R-16 size tires.... You won't get closer than that !! Moreover during a tire's life it changes by a lot of millimeters so when your stock tires (205/60 R-16) wear out, they would differ by a margin larger than 1 mile at 120mph....
I switched my stock 205/60R-16 tires with 225/55-ZR-16 Michelin Pilot All-seasons, about a month back and the improvement in handling and the dry/wet grip (compared to the stock tires) is like night and day....
Comments
Seth
2001 TL Nav Pearl White
I am conditioned to reject all such offers with their high markups and hard selling techniques. The person made the most effort to sell a "paint protection" process, first at about $575. When I rejected that out of hand, she immediately retreated to about $275, which I still rejected. Her line was that with dark colors, especially, the four-hour process is an indispensable guarantee against paint problems.
It so happens that the salesman, who I thought treated me very well, had mentioned that the paint protection was one "accessory" that really did make sense.
I am finicky about the maintenance of a car's exterior in general, but I don't want to overpay for maintenance that I can easily do myself or have done more cheaply elsewhere.
Unfortunately I don't recall the details of the process she proposed, but I would be interested in opinions on whether some sort of special protective treatment for a new (black) car is worth paying a dealer to perform.
My instinct on things like this (and undercoating) is that Honda/Acura would simply not build a car whose paint would deteriorate noticeably (or whose undercarriage would rust) with ordinary care.
Thanks.
If it was me, I would even tell them to not do any prep work on the paint (deliver it with the protective white film) and do everything myself.
As for good paint protection and shine products - check http://www.zainobros.com
Having just recently purchased a new TL, I have not yet experienced this problem but I would like to point out that this problem is not uncommon to many car manufactures today. I would like to offer some ideas on windshield treatments that have worked for me in the past.
To clean your windshield, use a product called Bon Ami Powder. This is a mild cleanser designed to clean stainless steel and is safe for use on glass. This product was actually recommended by one of the big three in a TSB for cleaning windsheids with this very problem. This product when used with water will remove contaiminants such as dirt, oils, and road tar that can accumulate on a windshield durng normal driving eventully affecting visability and wiper efficiency. I recommend cleaning the windshield during normal hand washing. Start by rinsing the entire vehicle. Sprinkle some Bon Ami powder directly on the windsheild and work into the entire windshield in a circular motion with a damp spong re-wetting as needed. Once you have covered the entire windshield, rinse with water and a clean spong. Thorougly rinse the windshield and surrounding painted surfaces before proceeding with the car wash since this could scratch the paint. You should be left with a winsheild that sheets water. If you have water beads, you still have contaiminants. Repeat the process. Once complete, follow with your normal wash process.
Another product that I have had a great deal of success with over the years is Rain X. This product cleans and protects your windsheild. It goes on like a wax and cleans and seals the pores in the glass creating a super slick surface where water beads up and flows off the windshield. In a rain storm while driving at spead, I have found that you may not even have to use your wipers. One tip, when removing this product after application, use a soaking wet spong or paper towel and follow immediately with a dry towel.
Hope this process helps. Let me know.
TL Has:
- 25 extra horsepower
- larger engine by 0.2 liter
- 5 speed automatic
- HID lights
- Optional Nav
- Heated Seats
- Heated Mirrors
- Outdoor thermometer
- 5 speaker sound system with built in subwoofer
- Standard 16 inch wheels
- optional trunk mounted CD changer
- better warranty
EX V6 has:
- in dash CD changer
- 6 speaker sound system
- folding rear seat
- More passenger room
- More trunk room
- Optional 16" wheels
- Optional fog lights
{have I forgotten anything?}
Check it out: http://www.vtec.net/news/items/437.html
These two cars are a very close comparison. The TL is generally around $5000 more without the Nav. Has anyone else had problems deciding between the 2001 Acura 3.2 TL and the 2001 Honda Accord EX V6? I know I have.
I figure if you don't want the headed seats, heated mirrors, and the Nav, then you can get the after market HID headlights for about $1200 installed, and get the optional 16 inch wheels for the EX V6, and you've pretty much equaled the TL, except for the extra 25 horses.
I suppose it comes down to wanting those extra features or not, and the slightly more powerful engine/transmission combo. It is also debatable if the resale value will hold better on the EX V6 or on the TL.
Break down the following, and what it would be worth to the buyer wanting the added power/ameneties:
3.2L with 25 more hp
5-speed automatic with sport shift
HID lights
Heated seats and mirrors
Sportier suspension overall
better warranty
and those items that meant a lot to me but may not to others:
rear heat/AC ducts - my passengers thank me regularly
electrochromic mirror - priceless, but can be bought cheap aftermarket
Now I would love the 6-CD in-dash, but had to do a changer instead. Folding seats mean nothing to me, as my other vehicle is a Suburban.
In a nutshell, I love them both. i bought a '99 EX-V6 Accord after shopping them both. The price diff just wasn't worth it. Then I went back and drove the TL again. Little things that aren't readily apparent come out. The steering wheel is beefier and softer, the seats are more comfortable (subjective, I know), the interior is more upscale, the outside treatments like polished exhaust tips and chrome handles are very nice, the car is sleeker in appearance, it handles MUCH better, the sport shift really does help in descending the mountain road to my house, etc, etc.
We bought the TL after the Accord, owning both for about 3 or 4 months. The longer we owned them both, the greater the differences became. Needless to say, we sold the Accord.
You mileage may vary, of course.
JPOG
JPOG
JPOG
The TL ride seemed smoother, the transmission was smoother, the handling was smoother, acceleration was smoother... see a pattern here? Something about the interior of the TL just seemed more refined; the Accord's controls in particular struck me as sort of Fisher-Price-ish.
I don't think the Accord was a bad car, and I think that if the TL is putting you at or over your budget, you would do fine with an Accord. (If that's the case, I personally would suggest also checking out the Nissan Maxima if you haven't done so already. The price falls in between the two, but I felt it was a nicer car than the Accord.)
Good luck,
JPOG
Joel
We felt the seats were very comfortable with a nice quietness even at the 75 MPH, with only tire and road noise coming into the interior, depending on the type of paving. The first day, we spent 11-1/2 hours on the road. The last day, it was 12 hours. We were impressed. I used anywhere from 87 to 91 octane fuel with an average of 89. Great performance although I am not a leadfoot. Are there any better averages than this? The car had only 3133 KM (1946 miles)on it at the start of the trip - hardly broken in!!
http://www.acura-tl.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001714.html
Fruthermore, I don't understand how you can keep this car under 70 on a freeway. If I just look at the gas pedal, it accelerates to 80! I'd practically have to keep one foot on the brake pedal (which I see all too many people do) in order to drive between 65 and 70.
Which brings me to my next point: why do you buy a car with 225 HP if you're going to drive it the same way you would drive a Geo Metro or Ford Aspire? It seems to me that part of the fun in owning this car is its ability to blow the doors off a Mustang GT at a stoplight, or accelerating past a group of slower moving cars to get to open road on the freeway!
I have a very important question however...
I took my car to the Acura dealer and asked them to wax the car to prep it for the winter. I asked what sort of wax they would use and they said" the acura recommended wax". They also said they would vacuum the inside and clean the interior of the windows with windex.
When I got my car back, I found that they had coated all the seats and dash with a shiny slippery substance that made all the surfaces black and shiny. My experience tells me this is Armor All coating every non-glass surface of the inside of my car.
Now the seats are extremely slippery and no longer feel like leather. They feel like plastic since they are coated with whatever they used.
What is the long term effect on the leather and dash board material?
I have heard that Armor all is bad for material since it does not let it breath, outgases silicon that re-deposits on the glass and in my own lungs as I drive the car.
What are my options to make the car like it was before? I dont like the feel of the seats now and the steering wheel feels slippery in my hands! HELP!!!
This same thing happened to a Lexus that I own. The detail place put this stuff all over the leather and plastic surfaces in the car. It made evrything feel oily.
The good news is that it prob did not do any permanent damage to your interior. Over time armor all looses its gloss and the leather and vinyl should return to its original softness. On my Lexus it took a few weeks for the gloss and oiliness to disappear.
To take care of the damage immediately I used some Lexol leather cleaner, conditioner and Lexol vinylex. take a bucket of warm water (use sparingly), Lexol leather cleaner, and several soft cotton cloths to get as much armor all off as possible. Your leather should look much better after this. Then be sure to apply conditionier to the leather. Lexol condiitoner does not dry slick and glossy like armor all. I used vinylex on the vinyl dash and back parts of the seats. Vinylex is a bit glossy but nothing like armor all. vinylex is supposed to protect the vinyl w/ UV filters and moisturizers. Finally, you should write a letter to your dealer and let them know that you really did not appreciate the "detail" job they did on your car. I would hope that they would offer to comp your next req. service AND more importantly stop using this stuff on customers' cars.
The price is un-believable. I promised to the dealer that I would not spead the detailed prices. Anyway, I went through this topic from part 1 through part 5 and never see such a wonderful deal. The loan is another miracle: I got it from my credit union, 6.95% over 60 month. After I told the financial manager about this, he even never tries to persuade me for financing from his side.
Just want to share my pleasure with all you guys. And thanks for all the posts.
Before I post more details, I would like to make sure that it would help some guys here. Let me know.
Boomoo
Boomoo
Seriously, I also don't understand why Acura is dragging its feet, not adding features that should have been there in the first place. Competitors aren't going to wait.
I was very disappointed with the lack of changes to the new model, but ya know what-- i'm getting ready to buy a new car now and will probably still get the TL. Of course, I'll probably kick myself when the re-skin and 'type-s' come out next spring... But, i'ts time to say good-bye to my Integra...
Handling: In terms of cornering, the 325 was best with the IS second. The rest were all a notch below with the CL probably third. Acceleration had the CL-S first followed by the Maxima, TL, then the IS. The 325 and I30 were noticeably slower. This surprised me about the I30 cause on paper it should be right up there. The I30 transmission seemed very lethargic. In braking, the IS was clearly the best with the Max and I30 the worst. The others were about the same. The smoothest ride came from the I30 and TL (which probably explained their poor cornering compared to the stiffer I30 and 325). The best blend of smooth ride and cornering probably came from the CL-S.
Interior: I’ll stop including the Maxima cause it was really no comparison to the others. The only reason I drove it was because I have a 95 Max now and like it very much. I just wanted to give them a chance. The most roomy and comfortable interior was the I30 followed by the TL. The others lacked some room and comfort. The stereo and A/C console on the I30 is just like the Max’s so that was a major turn-off. But the seats were plush and there was lots of room in back and front. The IS’s interior was neat, but not exactly the one I’d want on a long trip. Ditto for the 325. I did not get the “cheap” impression of the TL that many people have expressed. I thought it was very comfortable and roomy.
Exterior: This is a close one. I like the edgy styling of the IS, the modern Euro looks of the 325, the conservative and classy look of the Acuras and I30. I guess this is personal opinion and depends on what you want the car to do. The head turner is the IS or maybe the 325. The one you want to pick clients up in would be the TL or I30. I really like the IS, 325, and I30 better than the Acuras.
Value: Of course the TL and CL win here and the 325 is the clear loser. The I30 and IS are good values but the TL/CL are off the scale.
Overall: Sticking to my criteria of $35K and under really hurt the BMW’s chances. The 330 would have likely ranked better in acceleration and overall interior. But then you would have to throw in the new C-class, Audi’s, and the GS 300. I guess the winner depends on what you value more: interior, handling, value, or exterior styling. I’m can’t decide myself. If you are a value shopper, the Acuras will be hard to beat. Those that cherish roomy and comfortable interiors may favor the I30 or TL. If you want acceleration, the Max or CL may be the one. If handling is your cup of tea, then the IS and 325 will fit the bill. I’m still grappling with this decision for myself. Of course, intangibles come into play like proximity of the dealer, maintenance costs, reliability (or the perception of good reliability), and the relationship with the salesperson/dealer. Some days I say “The TL is too cheap to pass up” and other days I say “Take a chance and get the IS”. I’ll let you guys know what I decide in about a week or two.
http://www.edmunds.com/newcars/2000/acura/tlseries/32tl.html
The 2000/2001 TLs have the exact same 16" wheels including size/shape/design/weight.
The ONLY difference between the 2000/2001 models is that floormats are standard (big deal!!!) - which anyway was thrown in by my dealer along with wheel-locks. Also, they have included a trunk release from inside. Everything else is embarassingly IDENTICAL.....
I expected memory seats/mirrors and also the 6-disc in-dash CD changer since it was already there in the CL/CL-s but they have not included it.
I guess that would ensure than my 2000TL would be the "latest version" for one more year.
This is the way it is calculated.
The first figure (225,205 etc) is the wheel width in millimeters.
The 2nd figure (55,60 etc) is the aspect ratio, i.e., the ratio of the sidewall height to the width.
The 3rd figure is the wheel diameter (16,17 etc)
The overall diameters of various sizes on the stock rims (16 X 6.5) are as follows:
205/60R-16 - 652.4 mm
225/55R-16 - 653.9 mm
225/50R-16 - 631.4 mm
215/55R-16 - 642.9 mm
Thus the 225/55R-16 has the diameter that is closest to the stock tire/wheel combination since the difference is only 1.5 mm.
Hope this helps.... Let me know if you need to know anything more...
Later...AH
Later...AH
Later...AH