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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006



  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,905
    Methinks you do not have an engineering problem, but an assembly problem. You said "even with the windows down, it's still necessary to use substantially more force than with just about any other car." On my Elantra, the doors close with a push of one finger if a window is open--as easy as any other car I've owned. If it were an engineering problem, it would appear on every sample. You yourself have observed that the doors on another Elantra on the lot closed more easily than yours. Have you tried having the dealer adjust the doors? From your description, it's taking way too much force to close the doors even windows up. Reminds me of my Grand Caravan's side and rear doors--those can really provide a workout (less time needed at the gym). Chrysler "fixed" that problem by motorizing the doors. But I don't have $30K for a new one with motorized doors, so I'll keep slamming. The side doors did work better once the dealer, on his own initiative, replaced the door tracks. So maybe some type of adjustment on your car could help. Probably can't make it much worse.
  • presario1presario1 Posts: 15
    When will Hyundai take note that vibration in one too many new cars is a cause for a recall on a specific batch of tires or rims? Or will they just ride the storm and let individual owners deal with the frustration of service calls, including wheel balance and alignments, that don't work?
    Those of us with shimmy/vibration, what state are you from? My elantra is in Ohio.
  • bigzee2bigzee2 Posts: 1
    Hi there.. can anyone give me a good dealership/experience
    in central FL? How much over invoice am I expected to pay?
    Did anyone have an dealing with "Universal Hyundai" on OBT-Orlando. Their ad in the Orlando Sentinel says- 2001 Elantra's starting at $9999!! Any comments?? I am thinking of getting the Elantra with package 3. Also I am thinking of paying cash & not financing.
    Would I get a better deal? Is this a good thing? thanks.
  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Posts: 211
    I bouht mine at universal and had no pronlems. I bought a 01 Elantra. I dont know what package it has by name, but this car is basic with only an auto transmission. Great car.

    I bought my 00 Sonato from Coastal Mitsu/hyundai in melbourne. That was a very pleasent experience.

    Actually both were, but stand strong ay Universal.
    Lets face it, their job is to get as much of what you have and your is to give up as little as you can. Dont feel sorry for the dealers. Trust me, they would NOT sell the car if there was nothing in it for them in one way or another.

    I brought my edmunds printout to Coastal when buying the Sonata and the COST price is what we used right off my printout. We didnt even bother using his paperwork.

    At Universal, they were kind enough to let me use their PC and internet to connect to Edmunds to search for best price. Then went on to make a good deal, but had to play a bit of hardball to win at the price I was willing to pay. They knew I was going to buy one there or at Coastal, so they made the right choice.

    As far as car dealers go, I think they are a fine dealership.

    Coastal was about 65 miles from Orlando (guessing) Universal was about 15.

    Good luck.

  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Posts: 211
    I have an 01 Elantra too and as most folks have indicated it does require some effort to close the doors. If the windows are slightly cracked open it becomes easier meaning it is air pressure cushioning your effort to close the door.

    If comparing it to your x-corolla, consider the age perhaps of that car and was it a two or 4 door? 2 door do have more momentum than a smaller 4 door. ALSO did the corolla have frameless side windows? You know, the type when you open the door and there is nothing around the glass? These do not seal very well.

    I think you truly mistaken that your effort required to close the door is a defect. It IS a indication that the car is tighter than what you are used to is all.

    Now the wheel vibration is a REAL problem. I just paid to have a tire shop rebalance my tires and same trouble.

    I used to have my car tires trued, but the cost of that procedure has gone way up in price. Use to be about 10 bucks a piece and very worth it. NOW they want 25 bucks a piece !! I can buy new rubber for few bucks over the truing cost!! (maybe not michelin quality, but perhaps without the shimmy too)

    All I can say is you are taking a chance of them doors falling off completely if you hound the dealer over a non issue.

  • jimarthjimarth Posts: 5
    presario1, We're in SoCal.

    tonykrapil, I have an appointment on Tuesday and have requested a "regional support technician" (or something like that) from Hyundai to look at the car. I had two dealerships tell me the same thing after looking at my car, and accepted the diagnosis at face value (did not challenge them). I'll do the same with the Hyundai technician; but will also point out to him that another Elantra did not seem nearly as bad (I would suspect he'll be well versed with this problem, though, and that's why I called customer service). I might also add that both dealerships main product is other brands: one's Chevrolet, and the other, Nissan.

    I test drove a Corolla yesterday (never owned one) and still like the Elantra better (even though no door issue w/Corolla). The Elantra is quieter, more powerful, and more refined--just hate the doors! Our other car is a 2000 Accord, very quiet, excellent door seals, and the door closes smoothly and gently. Please note I'm not comparing the Accord and Elantra because there's a substantial cost difference between the two--simply, the Accord also has a tight cabin, but doors close effortlessly.

    I also had a 99 B2500 pickup and 99 B4000 pickup. The B2500 was a standard cab. No problems closing the door on either, but as other pickup truck owners probably know, large doors and small cabins make for an instantaneous pressure surge (back pressure effect) strong enough you can feel it in your ears. It bothered my teenage son so much we always had to roll down the windows before closing the door (for his ears, not to get the doors to close). Yet, the doors closed easily and gently with windows up, despite the brief back-pressure created. That's why I suspect it's more of a latch design problem.

    backy, I agree with you to a point... there are going to be variences in manufacturing, could be that my car's latching post may be in a slightly different position enough to make the difference, or perhaps the rubber insulation is slightly stiffer on my car, both "within" tolerance. I've looked at the alignment of the door to body, and it really looks good. That's why I'm concerned that the problem cannot be fixed (I doubt they'll burn off and re-weld the latching post--wouldn't allow it, either).

    What's interesting (I didn't mention this in my first post) is that the doors close much easier when pushing closed from the outside, as compared to pulling the door closed from the inside. Don't exactly know what that means...

    Thank you all for your thoughts; I'll post what Hyundai reports with the vibration and door issues...
  • ryan41ryan41 Posts: 21
    Just turned 1000 miles on my 01 Elantra. Same shimmy as everyone else. Tires have been balanced twice already little better but still there. Had a 98 Elantra never any problem. My car was bought at a dealer in New York. Other than the shimmy, the car is fine.
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    I posted my impressions for the first 800 miles of ownership on the Hatchbacks board under Elantra 5-door. So far, so great! This is a neat car with a lot of cargo carrying versatility. I have the auto but loved driving the 5 speed.
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    Given the weight, length and engine output of the Elantra, as well as the interior room, is the best comparison with the Civics, Corollas, Golfs, and Proteges, or is it more like the Nissan in between vehicle slotted above the former but below the larger Camrys and Accords? Got to thinking about this when doing my comparison shopping.
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    I also had a minor shimmy in the front wheels when I boutgh my Elantra GT. It disappeared after about 350-400 miles. I think it was a flat spot on one or more tires. I have over 700 miles on the car now. I bought my Elantra in New Jersey (suburban NYC), where I also live and do most of my driving. See my other posts in the GT forum.

    I guess the GTs sat in port for a while, but that can't explain the shimmy on GLS models.

    Godd Luck.
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    I'm in Jackson, NJ. You?
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    Im up in Basking Ridge, NJ north of you. Co-worker of mine lives in Jackson where you are. Actually, I bought my car from Brad Benson Hyundai, which isn't too far from you down on Route 1 in Monmouth Junction, NJ. Good to see Jersey people here :)

    Representin Jersey! :)
  • griffey2griffey2 Posts: 6
    I bought my '01 Elantra a few weeks ago. I live in Snow Country (Spokane WA) and am wondering if snow tires are needed for this car, or if I can get by on all-seasons or siped all-seasons?

    If anyone has any advice, I would really appreciate it!
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    I'm in Montclair. Bought my GT at Bob Ciasulli on Route 46. Despite what you may have heard about that dealer, and despite some of my earlier posts, I have no complaints at all about the buying experience or the dealer service. Haven't brought my car back yet, though.

    (I guess we can all fire up our Springsteen CDs and drive down to LBI, or, for those of us in Northern NJ, Satriale's Pork Store...Jersey Rocks!).
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    lol....I have to laugh at that one. At a small car show in Secacus NJ at one of those buildings on the Meadowlands parkway, I won a Bob Ciasulli T-Shirt! :) I havent heard anything bad or good about them. Just know they are there! Brad Benson is pretty good down on Route 1. I recommend them. Also Towne Hyundai up on Route 10 in Denville NJ is where I have all my service down and they are FANTASTIC.

    Goin down to LBI next week. Just heard Glory Days by Springsteen on the radio this morning. Jersey does rock!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,905
    Sorry to carry on with this thread, but the last post on this by jimarth really got my gears turning: why would the door be harder to close when you're sitting in the car rather than standing outside? I haven't had Physics since 10th grade, but something comes to mind:
    leverage is not as great when you're sitting in the car. The door handle is mounted near the middle of the door, and when you close it from the outside you're probably pushing on the handle or the window frame, near the outer edge. More leverage means more force applied for same effort. I don't know the scientific term for it anymore, but I'm sure nobody cares (if they are still reading at this point).

    You're right about the Accord, it proves it is possible to make a tight-sealing car (at a higher price point of course) with easy-closing doors--albeit bigger doors. I bet Hyundai's main design goal was to make the interior quiet, and they didn't make easy closing a high priority. That reflects the compromises necessary to make a car like the Elantra that sells for under $12K. (One day, I'll plop down my $35K for a no-compromises Bimmer.) Still, it sounds like your doors are more stubborn than some others so I hope the techs can figure it out. One thing you might check: I've noticed that the door seals are not attached all that well, and I've had to pop one of them back into place a couple of times. If the door seals are not seated properly, they might be binding up and causing hard closing.
  • dorf47dorf47 Posts: 18
    Haven't had mine too long yet (just turned 500mi) but the doors worked fine (normally) from the first test drive. I've read of other owners having the problem, wonder if there's a connection with when the vehicles were made? Something done differently on the assembly line, a particular shift, etc. It seems that either the doors take more effort to close right off the bat, or they are fine. This doesn't sound like an overall design issue (or we all would have the problem) but one of manufacturing. I wonder if you can find out exactly when your car was assembled?
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    Thanks for the tip about Towne Hyundai. I'll keep them in mind for service needs if Ciasulli doesn't work out.

    Ciasulli was allegedly going to be investigated by the NJ attorney general for fruadulent business practices. I think the complaints were centered on Ciasulli's used car sales. Some were over 10 years old. Again, I have no complaints about that dealer.

    Well, fellow garden staters, I'm off to listen to some Bon Jovi albums....happy motoring!
  • frankiepfrankiep Posts: 1
    I just bought a new Elantra yesterday. I have haunted the internet for car reviews and bulliten board comments for months. After seeing jimarths' comment a few days ago, the first thing I did was to check the door closing bit with my new car. It seems that I don't have this problem.
    I do think that the backy comment about misfitting door seals has merit. After going over my car, I have found a few issues regarding the fabric and carbet in my car. All of these I will probably fix with super glue.
  • Could any of you tell me if the Hyundai (I have a 1995 Elantra with 80K) has a history of the water pump shaft coming out of alignment?

    The serpetine belt broke 5 days ago(I bought the car used 1 year ago) and someone (not Hyundai) said the belt broke because of friction caused by a misalignment in one of the pulleys used by the serpetine belt.

    Hyundai said the serpetine belt had been put on backwards, but said nothing about misalignment. Can a serpetine belt be put on backwards?

    Any help is much appreciated.
  • jyk1981jyk1981 Posts: 37
    Here is K & N Air Filter part # for 2001 Elantras: 33-2753

    That # is same as for 2000 Elantras, and it's not 100% fit(actually its tiny bit bigger). I think someone posted that like 2 months ago.

    However,if you squeeze little bit, it fits in 2001 Elantra and it works fine.

    If you want K & N, you can buy one from for $32.99..

  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Posts: 211
    Have you noticed any improvement yet?

    Thanks for the info

  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    Thanks for the info. Exactly what benefits are you supposed to get for your $30+?
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    I have a K & N filter on my Elantra. It doesn't do anything for acceleration, if thats what you guys are looking for. I don't notice a differenece in power at all. However, it does greatly improve the gas mileage is one benefit. The parts person told me that it might. I get about 40 mpg on the highway now. There is really no such thing as "bolt on" horsepower meaning a filter like that, etc. My car is 5 spd, though. Now, my friend has a Dodge Neon w/ 3 spd auto and he does feel a difference. He says he can peel out now and couldn't before. I guess auto vs. 5 spd may have something to do with it. But it does improve gas mileage, so its worth the $30 I paid for it. Also, it is of much higher quality then the Hyundai filter. The K & N is good for a long time as long as you clean it with their cleaners. So you dont have to replace it as often as the normal filter. That saves money in the long run inturn a benefit

    cjacetta....Goin to listen to some Bon Jovi albums?...Im going to see him July 28 at the stadium :)
  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Posts: 211
    Here is K & N Air Filter part # for 2001 Elantras: 33-2753

    Is the maintenance of the filter messy? I had a filter a long while ago that made me look like I worked on an oil drilling rig for 8 hours when I cleaned it.


  • pedennisonpedennison Posts: 21
    K&N now lists a filter specifically for the 2001 Elantra. It is part number 33-2201.
  • I have been researching the 2001 Hyundai for some time now and I was set on a package 5. My dealer (Orem, UT) said he has never seen one on a 2001 Elantra! Says they don't send them at all. Also said the 2002 models are coming in October. Should I wait for 2002 model (Probebly more expensive) with the possibility that it will offer Anti-lock/Traction Control, or is the new model not worth it?
  • dorf47dorf47 Posts: 18
    Your dealer is blowing smoke. Got a pkg 5 two weeks ago. It was the only one on the lot, but had been part of the dealers early inventory (they opened in Feb.). Package 5's are very hard to come by, but they are there.
  • jyk1981jyk1981 Posts: 37
    I don't know about other people, but for me, I think the Power had been improved little bit.. (when you floor your car with air conditioning on, the acceleration is little bit better..)

    I'm getting about 25mpg in city and 38mpg in highway..(before the K&N installed, it was about 19 mpg in city and 28mpg in highway..)
  • majorthomechomajorthomecho Posts: 1,331
    From what I understand, the K&N filter by itself cannot improve your horsepower. My source is Pat Goss (sp) of Motorweek Illustrated. NO filter by itself can improve horsepower.
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