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Comments
I would like these:
Is this do able or should I just just keep my same rims. Has anyone tried this? I know its often for people to go from the steel wheel and plastic hubcap to the ones I like. I'm pretty sure they both are 15inch rims.
My main concern is why would honda put the ones I have (top picture) on the "top of the line" model while the middle of the line model gets the nicer ones.
The buyers of the Civic are typically younger then Accord buyers, so the demand for a higher wattage stereo is probably more important.
My guess is the stereo will be changing when the Accord hits it's new design.
Mrbill
You got a card with the PIN on it when you bought the car. Just enter the number and you'll be good to go.
Ah but wait... there is a PIN setting aside from the anti-theft ID, isn't there? That's odd if you never set it. Does anyone else have access to the car? Someone may have set it w/o you knowing.
http://www.toyota.com/camry/index.html?s_van=GM_TN_CAMRY_INDEX
But don't say TOO much about this because it is the Accord sedan forum only.
The 6-speed Accord V6 has 180 watts, my EX Auto has 120 watts (I'll admit it isn't as good as the Pioneer 200W unit I installed in my 1996 LX Accord) the Camry has an optional 440 watt JBL stereo. I expect the Accord will up the power in the next model (about 15-18 months away). When the Accord debuted in 2002, 120-180 watts was perfectly sufficient (and still is IMO), but here in America, more is always better, right? LOL
Kind of like saying one car uses more gas than another, so it is better.
Remember - 5-10 watts of clean power is extremely loud in a car.
I have my Odyssey in getting new speakers (and an ipod gizmo). I will be taking my '05 in to have the speakers swapped out.
The stereo shop guy confirmed what I have heard elsewhere. Honda makes (or installs) decent electonc pieces (the headunit, other than the display!), but they use just about the worst/cheapest speakers of any maker.
Generally, you will get much better bang for the buck with new speakers instead of adding more power. ALthough you can certainly fo both if you want!
$300 bucks worth of new speakers will probably make a world of difference to the quality of the digital sound from the sat radio or ipod.
Just make sure to get very efficient speakers if you aren't pushing a ton of watts.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
My new Accord with about 450 miles is making a poppingnoise/rubbing noise/cracking noise from the front suspension area or near the brake pedal @ about 5 mph - when backing up or moving forward. I also hear the noise when making turns at very low speeds. I will bring it in tomorow or Tuesday. Any thoughts or ideas? Maybe something with the suspension being too loose/too tight? Is this the popping noise related to the welds from the 2003s? Thanks.
I have an 06 EX-V6 with the 6spd manual (coupe) and I know for a fact that the car does an ABS check when you get up to a certain slow speed. It does it once per drive only. It doesn't sound like cracking. It sounds like a "thunk" and is less than half a second in duration. It shouldn't do this more than one time per drive shortly after you start moving. If this is what you're experiencing, it's normal behaviour.
Thanks for the tip - it sounds like a popping/rubbing/crunching noise. I gave more details on the dedicated problems thread. I brought it in the shop this morning for a look. I suspect that its one of three things:
1. Suspension bolt not on tight enough - As the car is warmed the problem becomes apparent. It is not apparent at a speed above 10 MPH, or when the vehicle is cold. The problem is easily when coasting at a speed of about 5 MPH either on flat surface or coasting up a hill. I believe I read this on the Acura TL thread or on the Accord thread.
2. The weld problem is from a 2003 TSB, effecting early models. Chances are that Honda has corrected that problem- but who knows.
3. I think another issue may be the silence tubes over the the springs.
I will post an update on the problems thread once the dealer informs me of what the problem is. The good thing is that they heard the noise.
My Accord EX Sedan (4 cylinder, manual) is needing to go in for its 15,000 mile service. I had oil and filter changes at 5,000 and 10,000 miles along with a number of dealer inspections (brakes, tie rod ends, driveshaft boots, suspension components, etc.) at the 10,000 mile service. The 10,000 mile service cost me $90.
For the 15,000 mile service ($245), they want to repeat the 10,000 mile service along with a couple additional items. I don't buy them re-checking all the things they did at 10,000 miles only 5,000 miles later, so I think that's a "no go." As I see it, I'll get another oil and filter change, and the question is about the additional items which I'd like some feedback on.
One is to replace the air cleaner element. As I drive in New England and can fall under the "severe" schedule, that's a 15,000 mile item, so that's reasonable. Another item is replacing the cabin dust & pollen filter - reasonable per the manual as I drive in a relatively urban area.
But how about replacing the differential fluids, inspecting the PCV valve operation, pressure testing the cooling system, inspecting the suspension mounting bolts, and checking the shocks for leakage and proper operation? Added dealer fluff?
It returns unburned gases into the intake manifold and it lowers emissions and increases gas mileage
I just remember i've gone through like thirty of them since my sixteenth birthday.
They're fairly cheap If i remember, and they love to stop working
You are supposed to replace the valve and filter every 30 to 50 thousand miles. But It can be neccesary much earlier so its worth checking out
I dont think checking the shocks is really neccesary.
People get nervous cause they own new cars, but think about a car with 150 thousand miles on it, you'll drive another 15 thousand on it and your dang shocks wont be messed up.
The pressure testing thing is a good idea too though In my opinion
Why do you think you are in the 'severe service' schedule?
Do you use the car as a taxi? A police car? A funeral car?
New England - I would think extreme cold would be the only concern - If you drive it less than 5 miles and do not get it warmed up well and then shut it down - Then maybe it would be severe service. But your nice, mild summers sure do not constitute severe service.
I would think you most probably have a normal service schedule.
Now I do think 7,500 to 10,000 miles between oil changes is somewhat excessive, but I would consider 4,000 - 6,000 miles do-able. If you drive 3 miles to work 5 days a week in winter, you are seeing temps below freezing for days and days - I would change the oil every 3 months and 3,000 miles.
99% of all autos on the road fit the 'regular schedule' for maintenance.
What's the last car you've heard of that an average family owned and had an engine failure before 75,000 miles? Bad rings, main bearing failure, burned valves, tranny overhaul? Now if Junior drove it on the weekends, loaned it to a 'buddy' to go get more beer for the party, and the buddy drove it 10 blocks to the convenience store in D1 with the accellator floored - then there might me a problem with a car.
Otherwise, just what kind of transmission and engine failures are you personally aware of? If you know of one, it most probably is one of the engines/transmissions with true 'design' problems - one with a high percentage of failures for the specific engine or transmission. And a 'severe service schedule' isn't going to help these, their failure is 'designed in'.
And there is no way you should be changing the transmission fluid at 15k miles, so don't let them talk you into that, either (you didn't mention it, but they might sell that as "the same as changing the differential fluid").
NOTHING needs to be done on your car at this point, other than an oil and oil filter change, and a tire rotation if you haven't done that yet. If you feel you want to change the air filter, do it yourself. You can get the filter from any auto parts store. Its gotta be the easiest do it yourself job on a car. I haven't looked into it, but I'm sure you could replace the pollen filter yourself, too. They are usually located under the dash on the passenger's side of the car. I'm sure there is a how-to written up on the internet somewhere.
As far as any of this "inspecting" stuff, just do it yourself. You can see if anything is leaking, broken, etc. I don't feel a dealer should be charging you for this stuff, anyway. Good grief, why pay someone just to eyeball your car? Its all a ripoff. Any decent machanic gives the car a quick once over when doing the oil change. It shouldn't cost you extra.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've been using the same Honda dealer in the Boston area for 15 years and that's what I have done. My Accords got the normal service as I do lots of highway driving except for oil changes which I did every 3,750 miles. My wife's Ody get the severe service as she drives about 3 miles each way to the train station. Even in summer, it's considered severe service to drive so little.
The air filter and cabin filters are ok. I live in NYC and change my cabin filters every year. You won't believe how dirty they get, and since my wife and son have asthma, it's important for me.
On my 2000 Accord it's a job, so they probably charge an hour's labor. I have a 2006 Accord, but haven't looked into what's involved yet in changing the cabin filter.
The checks they mention are fluff, shocks are simply looked at while the car is on the lift. They are probably rotating and balancing the tires, which is normal.
I normally do these things myself, but my Pilot hit 15k in February, and I don't work outside in the winter. The dealer charged about the same for the 15k service, including new wiper refills. The Pilot does have a differential, that was an extra $70 to chang the fluid.
How can the car turn a corner without squeeling the wheels if it didn't?
Yes, the car has a differential!!! It's just inside the transmission.
If you don't believe me, look up the following Honda part 41100-RAY-A01 DIFFERENTIAL
It's for a 05 V6 Accord
Mrbill
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
It turned out to be the left wheel bearing, front hub, which was replaced. All is now well in Honda land. I can continue enjoying my new car. Kind of disappointed though that the part failed @ 500 miles. Oh well, it could have been a tranny issue a la Toyota.
Everyone else - thanks for the great responses. That's what I love about this forum ... the feedback. From what I hear, all I should/need to get done at this point is an oil change. Tires were rotated at 10,000 miles, so I'll get them done again at 20,000 miles.
In the dealer's defense, I should say that they had a list of items for the 15,000 mile service and then gave the models and applicable prices underneath. It's possible that the differential fluid item was there for the Pilot, Ridgeline, etc. and wasn't applicable to the Accord. But I'm glad you all told me. I wouldn't have known otherwise!
Mrbill
Honda Accord (2000) water pumps can last 300+k miles, using Honda's blue antifreeze. With the history of Honda's auto transmissions, I wouldn't want to mess with a lesser tans fluid.
Members here have already established that Exxon make their 5w20 motor oil.
The Sandman
Honda and Toyota have consistently set the standard for well- rounded, reliable family sedans with the Accord and the Camry. Along with the Volkswagen Passat, they regularly trade places as CR's top-rated family sedan.
The Accord was named Consumer Reports' Top Pick in the family sedan category for 2006 in the magazine's Annual April Auto Issue.
"The top-rated Accord is a refined and comfortable family sedan that offers a slightly sportier edge than its competitors," said David Champion, senior director of Consumer Reports' Auto Test Center in East Haddam, Connecticut.
For the August issue, Consumer Reports pulled together a group of four family sedans and three large/luxury sedans for testing. CR purchased a V6 Honda Accord EX and three versions of the new Camry-a six-cylinder XLE, a Hybrid, and a four-cylinder LE. CR also purchased for testing a Hyundai Azera, Cadillac DTS, and Buick Lucerne.
The Accord, Camry XLE, and Camry Hybrid all achieved "Excellent" overall scores in Consumer Reports' tests. The Camry LE received a "Very Good" overall score.
Among the large sedans, the Hyundai Azera rated "Excellent" overall, coming in second place behind the previously-tested Toyota Avalon. The showing is one of the most impressive for a Hyundai in Consumer Reports testing during recent years. The Buick Lucerne, a replacement for both the LeSabre and Park Avenue, scored "Good" while the Cadillac DTS, an update of the DeVille, garnered a "Very Good" overall score.
Full tests and ratings of the family and large sedans appear in the August issue of Consumer Reports, which goes on sale July 4. The complete report is also available to subscribers of http://www.ConsumerReports.org.
Consumer Reports recommends four of the cars in this test group, the Accord EX, and all three trim lines of the Camry-the XLE, Hybrid, and LE. The Azera and Lucerne are new vehicles and so reliability is unknown. Reliability of the DeVille was below average; it remains to be seen what it will be for the DTS. Consumer Reports only recommends vehicles that have performed well in its tests, have at least average predicted reliability based on CR's Annual Car Reliability Survey of its own subscribers, and performed at least adequately if crash-tested or included in a government rollover test.
The Accord combines sportiness and all-around capability, which helps it maintain its top rating among family sedans. The ride is pleasingly firm and handling is nimble with its standard electronic stability control. Road noise is CR's biggest complaint about this vehicle. The Accord EX ($27,850 Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price as tested) is powered by a 244-hp, 3.0-liter V6 that is smooth, quick, and relatively frugal, delivering 23 mpg overall in CR's own fuel economy tests. The five-speed automatic is smooth and responsive. The Accord's brakes perform very well.
The Camry is capable, quiet, and well rounded in all three test versions but is not as exciting to drive as the Accord. Handling is sound, but not sporty; the ride is comfortable. All powertrains are refined and economical; the V6-powered XLE, the top-rated of the three, is very quick, while the Camry Hybrid combines good performance with impressive fuel economy-34 mpg overall. MSRPs for the Camrys varied from $21,080 for the LE to $29,839 for the XLE, and $30,677 for the Hybrid. The brakes on the XLE and LE trim lines perform very well. Braking distances were somewhat longer on the hybrid version.
bolivar - just a little thing: New England summers are mild if you live in northern Maine. Otherwise, it's 85-100 degrees and muggy.
IMHO, driving stop and go or short distances in those conditions constitutes severe to me
And to me as well.
Coming home, we filled up on the highway and again just before getting home, and showed 35 MPG!
And the car only has 2000 miles, so it should get better.
The Sandman