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Mazda Millenia



  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    It is possible the sensor for the outside temp is faulty. It happened in my family's Caravan, quick fix. I dont know of any way to toggle Celsius to F. It might be a programming issue. A dealership would know on that one. Not too sure on your driver's seat issue. I am 6-2 and I like to sit as low as possible anyways, so I am content. From what I remember it seems to go up high enough, it is just a matter of personal preference.

    Question for readers: I have 40k miles on the OEM Goodyear tires and need to replace them. Any suggestions? I am looking at Continental CH-95 and some Michelins. Any help is appreciated.

  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Thanks to both fwatson and heybrady for your thoughts. I did a search some days ago out of curiosity for tire replacements. Best info seemed to be at tirerack (don't have details at hand but likely Many more tires/brands available in 205/50/17 size than locals would have me believe. Most expensive not always best. I will try to find my data and get back to you. Watch this space for further data! fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I'm not ready for tires yet, only 11000 miles on the OEM MXV4's. But Consumer Reports has tested this type tire with H speed rating on page 63 of the Nov "02 issue.

    The top 3 overall in order are the Dunlop SP Sport A2 at $70, Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus at $120 and the Continental Conti Touring Contact CH95 at $70.

    I am seriously considering the Conti CH95 which they rate best in handling. It's only caveat is wet braking if you don't have ABS. Our MM's do, so that seems to be a non-issue in our case.

    They were tested on an Accord with P195/65R15, but according to their judgement the ratings should also be good for 14, 15 and 16 inch sizes. It didn't state if all these models are available in 17's since you have a MMS.
  • dominick33dominick33 Posts: 14
    I don't have an S but the blinking hold lamp indicates a problem detected by the transmission control computer. There are many errors that can cause a lamp on and without a code reader you are guessing. Even if you knew the code there is not much you could do except have the fluid power flushed and hope it is just "gunk" buildup after all the miles. So for less then $100 get the trans flushed, this is probably good preventive maintence anyhow.
  • csuftitanscsuftitans Posts: 215
    The temp sensor on my 2000 Mill S seems to be fairly accurate, it does need about a minute before it showed me the correct temp outside. One thing that I find annoying is that the display seems to maxed out at 99 degree Farenheit. Seems like it won't do any three digit number, eventhough I can see that the display seems to be have three digit display, oh well.
    As for the drivers seat position, I finds out that most Mazda sedans tends to have the drives seat lower than most other sedan in its class, which I like. I always thought that they're trying to make their cars feels more sporty by having the seats lower than its competitors(which works for me, yes, I'm wierd), plus you get more headroom that way :-).
    Now, about tires. My car came with Dunlop SP Sport4000 A/S, which last until about 36000 miles, then I replaced it with sets of Falken Azenis ST115 same size (215/50/17). Both are V-rated (up to 149Mph), while Falken claimed that the ST115 is a "quiet performance tire", noise level is about par with the Dunlops, maybe a tad noisier, but when the car is loaded, the tire noise is much more noticable compared to the Dunlops. Performance wise, the tire is great, I've had no problem with it at all in dry or wet condition or at high speed. However, now I'm ready to replace it at 67000miles. I'm trying to find a quiter tires, but I don't think I can find a quiet one that's a V-rated, like fwatson said earlier. I'm looking at Falken Ziek ZE512 (V-rated), which has both 215/50/17 and 225/50/17 size and hoping that it would be quiter than the ST115. Well, according to the Falken sales rep that I contacted, the ST115 is actually a quiter tire than the ZE512, but the ZE512 gives you better comfort than the ST115. He mentioned that even a 215/45/17 ZE512 would be comfier than the 215/50/17 ST115, eventhough the later has a thicker/higher rubber. So now I'm still confused as to which one to get. I'll let you all know what I decided to get in these next few weeks.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Thanks to csuftitans for replies. The problem I have with the low driver's seat (thanx for confirming that by the way) is that I can't rest my left arm on the sill the way I could with all the other cars I have owned over the past 40+ years. Also I am afraid to stick my hand out because someone may walk on it!! There is no need for Mazda to have such lousy temp. readers in this day and age of microchips etc. Yes, I too find the outside temp. readout to be off by a country mile and the inside temp lies like a rug. That too should be instantaneous. Imagine an oven that read the set temperature plus or minus 25 degrees. I have had this 2000 Mill S for less than 3 weeks and have a love/hate relationship. I love how it handles but hate trying to get up and out of low seat. I have to wonder about the mindset of the designer(s) who decided to have an electric steering column positioner. I want to get out for a moment with the motor running. Not possible with wheel pushing against my too-ample gut. The Lincoln I turned in had a mechanical setup, push the lever and move the column up at any time. A lot cheaper, a lot simpler and you don't need a battery. Having said that I still think it is a great looking car and am delighted in general. Just checked mileage and even using premium vs regular in Lincoln the miles/gal is much better so cost is not a concern, may even save money over a year. (If you have to ask then you can't afford it??). Lots of tire reviews at and 18 tires in 215/50/17 size. Most expensive not always the best.
    fwatson: How does your Mill handle on I19?
    Finally: when I checked the tire pressure the day after I picked car up the tires were about 40psi. I dropped them back to manual setting of 32 front/29 rear but have since upped that to 34/31. What settings do the others here find is best for ride/comfort/economy? fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    "fwatson: How does your Mill handle on I19?
    Finally: when I checked the tire pressure the day after I picked car up the tires were about 40psi. I dropped them back to manual setting of 32 front/29 rear but have since upped that to 34/31. What settings do the others here find is best for ride/comfort/economy? fairwood"

    Sorry, you lost me on the I19 question. If you are referring to interstate highways, I think the MM was born for highway cruising. My only wish is for quieter tires than the V-rated MX4V OEM's. I will go "down" to H or lower speed rating in that quest when it comes new tire time. That looks a long way off at the rate of 6000 miles a year though.

    My dealer also delivered my MM with way overinflated tires, 35-36 all around. I at first thought I had made a sad mistake in buying the Millenia until I deflated to 31X29 as called for by Mazda. That made a huge difference in noise which was horrible, especially from the rear tires with the 35 psi setting.

    Again, the temperature readings both inside and out appear very close to correct but I don't know about the 99 degree limit referred to above. The autoair is the best I have had in any car and very quiet even when it calls for high fan speed. I have the electric tilt turned off and prefer it that way. The only reason I can see for it is as a "luxury" feature. I find most of those a waste of time and money anyway, including the autodim mirror and headlights I have seen others complain are missing from the MM. I have had them on other cars and found them a major nuisance. And I prefer a roadmap to navigation system. Guess I'm kind of a regressive sort.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    fwatson: Yes I was referring to Interstate 19. I noticed your Florida address and unwisely thought you were a gulf coaster. We spent the last 9 winters in and around New Port Richey and drove I19 every day. Never bothered with the T-shirts that said "I drove I19 and LIVED!". Just checked my tires and they are Michelin 225/45/R17, 90HM +S, XGT H4. The previous owner must have replaced factory stock since these have lots of tread left and are not "standard size". There is just over 37K miles on clock. I thought I had stock size but perhaps I should not be let out on the streets on my own. I had been looking at Maxima SE's as well and must have had their tire sizes imbedded in brain. Duh!! So I will have to rethink air pressures based on even lower profile of 45. These Michelin's are very quiet on city streets, bypasses and some highway driving. Certainly no "singing", rumbling or whatever. Any comments on 45 versus 50 profile? More later on tires. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Not to be too picky :), but I-19 is in Arizona. You must be referring to US-19 in western Florida. I have used it a number of times, but use US-27 and I-75 on trips in and out of Florida. US-19 runs up into the panhandle. I actually live in central Florida, 80 miles due east of Tampa.

    At any rate my MMP has 17 inch 55 series tires, and these MXV4's do whine on concrete as well as rumble on coarse pavement. I've never had a lower profile tire than these but would think the ride would get progressively harsher (bumps) as the profile gets lower. I wouldn't call the ride of my MM harsh but it is definitely firmer than my "95 Olds 88. In a way I would like to replace the tires now to know how a different tire will affect road noise. That is out of the question though until they need replaced. Not enough money in retirement to justify unnecessary $500 purchases.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Just got 4 Bridgestone Potenza RE950 's. Good price and performance. Check for buyer comments. Much quieter than Michelins.
    '95 S 85,000 miles.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    To quote myself: "At any rate my MMP has 17 inch 55 series tires"

    Noop. That should read "16 inch". I am running the OEM's.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Sunday noon (father's day but I'm not one of the hallowed group!). Just washed the brake dust off wheels for first time (picked up used 2000 Mill S three weeks ago tomorrow)and was surprised to see some peeling of coating, especially at rim where rubber meets the wheel. Also seems to be some (a lot?) of bubbling of coating on spokes. These "bubbles" do not seem to be hollow but I am not going to poke and probe too much at this time. Other rim damage or scrapes here and there from parking too close to curb etc. but that is to be expected. Been there, done that. Peeling isn'texpected. Any thoughts? Also I have to wonder why previous owner opted for 45 profile tires and upped to 225 when replacing. Michelin 225/45/R17 90HM+S XGT H4. These are listed with name PILOT at TireRack web site but nowhere on tire is PILOT shown. If you are a father enjoy the day. Bar is open!!! fairwood.
  • nishikinishiki Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I've been having the same problem on my '97 S. It started at around 50k. Usually it happens when the CC is on, at speeds of 75-80 mph (although the last time it happened, it was while turning into a garage as I turned off the CC.

    I've noticed that when it happens, the trans seems to go into Hold mode -- the RPMs, normally at around 2500 at that speed, jump up over 4000. It lasts until I turn the engine off. When I turn the engine back on, the Hold light is no longer flashing, but the Check Engine light is still on. After a day or two, that light will turn off as well. This has happened maybe 6 or 7 times over the space of 10k miles.
  • nishikinishiki Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I've got 58k miles on my '97 S. I know that the timing belt is supposed to get replaced around 60k miles. When should I have that done? As close to 60k as possible? As soon as possible? Also, anyone know about how much it's going to cost?

  • I have a 2000 millenia s 55000 great car but the a/c drives me crazy it is way to loud for this type of car. I have had the compressor replaced under warranty but didn't improve the noise. Any one else have this type of problem? I bought the michelns pilots on I have about 15000 on them alot quieter than those dunlops. mine does say pilot on the tire it is one of the most popular ones 50 series.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Surprised about noise. The fan goes from dead quiet to "blast off" but that is not the sound that I assume you are referring to. This is the first car that I have had that does not hesitate a bit when the A/C cuts in and out (and I have had dozens and dozens of cars over the past 50 years). Is it a squeal or a ringing? What? I do find that the economy setting is not too impressive. Agree with you that Michelins are very quiet, only noise from under car is the thumping of the expansion joints. Tires themselves are NOT noisy as many others have complained of here and elsewhere. Previous owner has installed 225/45/R17's so profile is even lower than your 50's but same tire basically.
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75

    I posted a similar message back in March when I got my 99 MM P. It is a knocking noise sort of? Someone replied that it is a bad fan bearing. Apparently it is a common problem and a quick fix. Might be something to check out. I have not bothered to get mine fixed, I just deal with the noise. The radio usually drowns it out.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    My P is a 2001. The only "noise" I can attribute to the AC is a minor gurgling of the gas in the lines behind the instrument panel upon first startup. Other than that even the fan at high speed is whisper quiet. That gurgling is harmless and needs nothing done about it if that is your complaint.
  • dominick33dominick33 Posts: 14
    If you live in California the timing belt is guaranteed for 105K miles. See the gates belt replacement guide: 0#TOPOFPAGE

    Since there is no different part number for belts sold in California, the 60K number is very conservative and the worst that will happen is the belt will break and no damage will occur (non interference design). So I would not sweat the mileage until you approach 100K miles then look for a deal on belt replacement and you might as well replace the water pump at the same time and save some labor dollars.

    Mazda will charge ~$500 to replace the timing belt.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    A few posts back I asked about converting the temperature readout from Celsius(C) to Fahrenheit (F). My local Canadian dealer said he has had a few requests over the years but there is no known procedure. Well I e-mailed to MazdaUSA with the problem and got an answer within 30 hours. This procedure is almost as weird as the one to program a keyless remote. To change temperature readout to F: Put ignition key in the off (LOCK) position. Press and hold the AUTO and the OFF buttons at the same time while turning the ignition key ON. IT WORKED! If you are not familiar with the procedure for programing a keyless remote or fob as they are called let me know. It is right out of Harry Potter. fairwood.
  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    fairwood, you did a great job on discovering this! I guess this might be a solution for 99-degree limit (F) when you set the display to read in Celsius. That's what I will do when it becomes too hot. Thanks.

    P.S. Could you also provide programming instructions for remote and fob just in case if somebody needs it in the future, including me (honestly, I am not sure what fob is):-)?
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    tig2000 and others: The term fob for the remote probably comes from the old term for a pocket watch fob. The remote controller is what is referred to of course. To program a remote (fob) to match the current codes in your car and to be a duplicate of your current (or lost!!) remote this is the procedure. It sounds like someone is pulling your leg but it is legit.
    1. Open the driver's door and then press the lock button (on the door) so ALL the doors lock. The security light should come on (upper left dash).
    2. Unlock the driver's side door by turning or pushing up the switch on the door so the security light now turns off. The other 3 doors remain locked.
    3.Insert your key in the ignition and turn to the ACC position - then take out the key. Remove the key entirely, not just back part way out. Repeat this THREE times. (Remember to take key completely out).
    4. Close and open the driver's door THREE times.
    The car should now beep once.
    5. Press ANY button on the remote TWO times. The car should beep ONCE again.
    6. Wait five seconds and then the car should beep FOUR times and your remote is programmed.

    If that isn't a strange procedure I don't know what is. This is for Mazda Millenia S 2000 and I believe it is valid for most MM's with a 4 button remote. Stay out of the bar when doing this!!! Apparently you can program up to 4 remotes at the same time or within minutes of each other. Not sure what happens if you have a 3rd one to do later. Time for a drink folks, my head's spinning. fairwood
  • csuftitanscsuftitans Posts: 215
    Thanks for sharing the instruction to change the temp readout and for the remote control. For a new Millenia owners, you figured this car out pretty darn quick :-), gj.

    Back to tires decision for me, looks like I'm going to buy another set of Falken Azenis ST115 in 215/50/VR17. This set seems to be one of the quietest V rated tires our there, especially for the particular size that I want. The only other tires that I believe is quiter than this one are Yokohama AVS db S2 (only have 235/45/VR17) and Dunlop SP5000 (standard on 2001-02 Millenia S), both are about $160 each compared to about $100 for the Falkens. The main reason I like the Flaken is that not only it's cheap, kinda quiet, and good traction, it also looks very cool. the thread looks very nice and side profile is one of the best. Yes, I know it's only tires, but I do like the way it looks on my Millenia better than any other tires out there. 5B_2.jpg
    BTW, has anyone or know anyone that puts a 235/45/17 on their 17x7 Millenia rims? All I know is that the overall diameter would be about the same, but the width of the tires is like .7 inch wider, don't know how it will fit and look.
    Happy Friday to all!
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    csuftitans: Thanx for kind words. The previous owner of my MM S (2000) has installed 225/45/17's almost the size you are inquiring about. They look great, are very quiet (Michelin Pilots) but I did find one thing that bothered me until the service manager explained it to me. I hope he wasn't blowing smoke as they say but I complained that hitting brakes fairly hard coming up to a stop or light or whatever - not a panic stop, just testing braking - one time the car pulled left, next time to the right and next time straight as an arrow. He said because of the low profile the tires are far more susceptible to grooves or low spots in the road but this size is the best for 4-season driving (snow, rain, heat etc.). Depending on the type of uneveness the car will pull whatever way it is led. So get a firm grip on wheel prior to stopping. To repeat what I said several postings ago, I do not notice tire noise that so many complain about. All I get is the bumpety, bumpety bump of the expansion joints. Hope this info helps. fairwood
  • srhromasrhroma Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Mill S and have always thought the horn was practically unsafe in how "whimpy" it sounds. Are there any aftermarket options out there???
  • csuftitanscsuftitans Posts: 215
    Yeah, my co-worker has a 99 Millenia and I've heard how the horn sounded, pretty wimpy :-), jk. I would just go to a Mazda dealer and get either a '00 or '01 Millenia horn (sounds much better than the '99) or Mazda 6's horn, which sounded pretty good also. I don't know much about aftermarket ones.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    I tried to do a search here with no luck. I have a 2000 MM S and in reading past posts to catch up with what others say about MM's in general I came to realize that I might have a problem with resetting the radio security code, not IF, but WHEN it comes time to replace the battery. My wife had a 1990 VW van and when we replaced the battery we had to reprogram the radio with the code procedure. Some indications are that these security codes are no longer used by most suppliers. What is the experience out there? I bought this car used one month ago and consider myself lucky that it came with one keyless remote and one master key. I insisted that the dealer provide an extra key (master, not valet) but they balked at extra remote. fairwood.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Just to answer my own question, I did finally get an answer from local dealer service mgr. If you have a security code for radio, there will be a flashing light on radio readout space when you turn off or remove key. No flashing light - no code to worry about. Now I must find out how much the silver 2000 MM S with swede seats is. The price card has fallen down (upside down of course). Chrome wheels instead of my aluminum ones. Don't like the black leather shift knob as well as my tan one (I have leather seats also). Only had this car one month and am getting to like it more and more each day, the more I find out about it by reading past postings here. So why am I interested in silver one? Because as much as I like the dark green (Hunter green?) I have never had a car show the tree pollen, dust etc so much. Am I going to join that group that drives around with a large "feather" duster in the trunk? God forbid. Saw a lot of that in Japan in 1985 and '86. Now where are my white gloves?
  • nzigmanzigma Posts: 13
    Hi Fairwood,
    I'm in the market for a 2001S. Since your flag indicator is the'leaf' and you seem to have done a lot of research on the car , what would be a fair price from the local Mazda dealership in Vancouver, with 19K miles on it. Is the 2001 a lot different from the 2000 ? The dealer is asking for 24K Canadian ($ 17,400 US). Thanks
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Hi nzigma: Yes, I am in Burlington Ontario. I was over at local dealer's the other day. They have a white outside/suede inside 2000 Mazda Millenia Millenium Special Edition on the lot. As I stated above, the price card had fallen down. I called my salesman and he said it has around 56k (just under 35000 miles - I HATE METRIC!!). The price is $24000 Canajun loonies which is about $2000 more than I paid 4 weeks ago for my MM S. The Millenium was a special run and I believe it has a 6-CD changer in the dash as opposed to a single player in the "regular" MM S's. The Millenium only came in the two colours I believe. I would rather have my tan leather/tan insides than the swede, at least until I start freezing my butt off in the winter - I do have heated seats however - and sweating it off in the heat. Our heat wave just broke so we are back to June weather. Anyway, the 2001 S that you are looking at has quite low mileage on it for a 2001, about 6000 miles per year as opposed to a typical 10 to 12000 miles (not kilometers). The price is very low also based on the few "for sale" cars I have seen in this area, 30 miles west of Toronto. I saw another 2000 S in the paper at a BMW dealer for $28000 Canadian which probably means around 26500 after haggling. Also in reading past postings on this site a fair number of owners seem to dislike the rear tail light arrangement or design or something to that effect, preferring the 2000 package. I can't comment on that. I just know that heads turn when I pull up to a light etc. Hope you are agile; getting in and out can be a bit of a challange for us older types. You sit quite low. Don't stick your hand out because someone may walk on it!! If you haven't taken the time to read or skim thru the past postings here I suggest you do so. Just type in one or two search words and go from there. Keep in touch as I will be going back to the dealers on Sunday to have another look. They are closed Sundays so no one to jump all over you.
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