Infiniti I30/I35

sascuderi

No problem except the front seems to be wearing faster than I would have expected. After 7,000 the front Toyo's have some wear while the rear tires look new.They do not feel like they are "out of balance". What do you mean by "feeling out of balance" anyway?

Have you adjusted the tire pressure yourself?
Don't let the dealer do it...get your own gage.

I keep mine at 34 front and 32 rear, gives a slight firmer ride.

r1100

I had my I30 in four times for tire problems. I took the car to an independent tire dealer before the fourth time and they balanced to zero with me watching. They also pointed out that at least one of the tires was out of round. I pointed this out to the dealer when it went in for transmission work and they put Michelins on, solving the problem.

Good Luck

mhammy84

as with the recent tire problem posts, do those of you who see independent mechanics for a second opinion somehow make Infiniti pay for your third-party services? I am afraid that even though my car is under warranty, I will need to have an independent mechanic look at my car, and it may be costly, when Infiniti is supposed to cover it under warranty. However, it seems like they wont move on anything unless they have sufficient reason to, even though bringing them a problem which is blatant wont get them to act to solve it. I too had tire problems, however, it was with my car continuously pulling to the left. I had the car in three times for that problem, the first two times, I have determined that the dealer didnt even look at it (as they do with my other problems that i have posted about). The third time in however, the service director was there, and did something so that my tracks straight MOST of the time. Seems like it tracks straight when the tires are warm. When the tires are cold, the car still pulls to the left, but now I am not going to complain since it doesnt really take that long to warm up the tires anyway.

mhammy84

Oren,

Havent heard from you in a while. How did your appointment go on 10/9/00 with Infiniti regarding the vibration problem? Did they bring any special people to the dealership to look at your car? Please update! Thank you...

oren1

Hello Roy,

I dropped off my car on Monday morning, and it still at the dealer. I also reported a new problem to them with my engine. When the car sits in the garage for few days and I started it. The engine make very loud noise for few seconds. It sounds like there is no oil in the engine. The service adviser told me it needs some sensor to be replaced. I just called to find out the status of my car and was told that the sensor arrived late Tuesday and will be replaced tomorrow. I asked how about the vibration problem? He sed they will drive the car tomorrow after the sensor is replaced. What is very strange that they will have my car for three days in the shop while waiting for the part and I am driving the loaner. I will keep you posted when I get my car back.

roxie1

Hi! Enjoy the chat - very helpful. I'm interested in the 2001 I30L. I really want the Titanium w/Sage, and I want to add Xenon, Heated seats and Traction. Only problem is that I can't find this car anywhere. I really love the Xenon lights (our 2001 TL has them). What should I do?? Special order?? or give up the lights and take HS and TCS?? Or I there is just a Xenon car available without HS and TCS. Also, what is a fair price for this car??? YOUR HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

pethelman

Yes, 92drexel, you are correct on the thermostatically controlled seats. There are two ranges of temps. There is a max temp below which the system turns on and then there is a HIGH range and a lOW range. If the temperature is on the way up and goes outside the HIGH range (somewhere around 95deg) then the thermostat shuts off the heaters. While the temperature is on the way down it hits the low range and then turns back on. This gets repeated over and over and is why you notice the seats getting cool then warm then cool... Seems like a pretty cheap way to do it, instead of actually having a variable current control, kind of like a dimmer on a light. The benefit being that its a fairly reliable design.

Regarding tires. Drive tires always wear faster than non-drive tires, given that the alignment is correct. Also, there is NO 100% perfect tire. Out of any batch of tires of any brand, you'll find some losers. Some will be just barely noticeable (high speed vib) and others will be obvious to the eye when spin balanced. When you purchase tires, you should watch while they mount and balance. If an initial balance correction of 2.75 ounces or more comes up, then you may need to be suspicious of that tire. Better tire shops won't just slap a heavy weight on the rim but will actually break the bead and spin the tire 180 degrees on the rim, hoping to let some of the tire/rim imbalances cancel out. If this still doesn't work, I always request that they take it off and try another tire. It shouldn't cost extra, but even if they're fussy about it, it's worth it, not to have to deal with an annoying tire for a few years. So a few tire tips:

Get a tire that is readily IN-STOCK and that they have a lot of. Special ordering 4 tires is just asking for it.

Be patient and try as many tires as it takes to get the initial balance weights down below 1.5 ounces.

Ask the last time the spin balance machine was calibrated and who does it? (A good indicator that the shop is on the ball).

Insist that they be balanced to ZERO. If you're not watching, they will often call 0.25, "good enough."

EnJoy

pethelman

High Energy Discharge lights:

Very cool. Same technology as used in stadium lighting. Very sophisticated electronics allow the gases (not sure if it's xenon or not) to heat up almost instantly, and thus their introduction to cars. Otherwise you'd be waiting 5 minutes for your lights to come on. ALSO, thus the COST.

There's a nice alternative that I've used. Solaris super white bulbs. They're a plug in replacement for the stock bulbs and offer and genuinely NICE high white light output. Not a trace of the weird blue look from the sides (ie wal-mart - autozone "blue" bulbs) and not nearly as offensive to oncoming drivers as the HID. Driving beside an HID equiped BMW on a four lane at night, the Solaris were VERY close in whiteness and almost as intense. Best of all they're relatively cheap, $74.99 from autosupermart

http://autosupermart.com/shopcart/solaris/solaris.html

OK, so HID's never burn out. Buy several pairs of the Solaris, then take a nice vacation on your $1500 savings.

FWIW

kluken

As you are in Atlanta I also recommend Roswell Infiniti. I had numerous tire balance problems and the service manager there was very good. Ask for Ed Adams. Be polite to him and he will go the extra mile for you. I will probably never own another Infiniti, I feel they are going down in quality, but if I do I will get it there because Ed Adams and Roswell Infiniti are the best service I have seen on any car. I would let them fly someone in, if you refuse their efforts they will use it against you in Lemon Law efforts. Document everything and mail them letters as you have. Best of luck!

kluken

I suspect the vibration you are feeling is what I had. It is part tires and part twitchie suspension. Infinity is trying to give you a BMZ road feel, but falls short. Due to their poor suspension tuning 60-70MPH usually you feel every ungulation in the road. I have had 3 sets of tires now, the original Toyos, Michelin MXV4s and now Goodyear RSA. The Toyos sucked, 2 had bad belts. The Michelins gave best handling, but as they tend to be stiffer than most did not help the problem. The Goodyears lped a great deal, but they do not handle anywhere as good as the Michelins. Infiniti has told me on 3 different occasions they are working on redesigned struts and shocks, but I will wait and when the Goodyears were I will do Monroe struts and shocks and go back to the Michelins!

pethelman

Actually
HID = high INTENSITY discharge

Interestingly enough, anyone selling an aftermarket kit or even the Solaris bulbs makes the disclaimer that they are for off road use only. Very doubtful that this would be an issue for the Solaris since they are very non-objectionable at a distance when correctly adjusted.

HEATED SEATS

This is interesting. Just checked the wiring diagram and it's clear that thermostatic (on and off) operation is only in the HI position. According to the service manual
Thermostat OFF when temps increase to 95 - 113F
Thermostat ON when temps decrease to 59 - 77F

However, in the low heat position, the thermostat is taken out of the circuit and the seat heaters operate continuously through a resistor divider at some unspecified temperature. Looks like you should warm them up on HI then switch to LO as someone else mentioned on another model vehicle.

FWIW

320cobra

Two weeks ago I purchased a 2001 I30t for my wife (has the sport package, traction control and navi). Before purchasing the vehicle, I did read ALL of the massages posted on the board which helped us make our decision on the I30. We shopped all the competition (LS, TL, RL,528/530, ES300, 300M, E320) and found that it was the best value out there. Heck, the additional 20k I would of spent on the German editions can now be used to invest for the kids college funds (if the market ever comes back). Thus far we have 500 miles on the car and happy to report no problems! I drive a 99 Cobra and was smiling from ear to ear when I drove the I30 for the first time. At 227 ponies this car is surprisingly fast!!!!

mhammy84

Pethelmen: Just wondering if you looked into your '96 I30 vibration situation any further...did you end up changing out the fuel injectors, and seeing any differences? As I posted before, the "company rep" who analyzed my car only through his computer link said that there was nothing wrong with my I30, adn that all I30s are rough because of pollution regulations. What have you determined with regards to the fuel injectors?? Thanks...

pethelman

Wish I could offer a little more insight into the problem? Since we communicated before, all I have done is positively verified that the EGR valve was not a problem (removed vacuum line plugged with golf tee). I do think there is a fundamental difference, however, between the vibrations that you and oren have experience compared to mine. Mine actually goes away at the LOWEST of the RPM range (around 625 RPM). Mine's a manual and so this is even a bit lower than the automatic. But then vibrates noticeably between 650 and 1000 RPM. This tends to rule out compression problems, and I suspect, even the fuel injectors are not the problem here. I was able to compare mine to an identical automatic, and with the hoods up, I put my hand on the air plenum of both engines. The feeling of vibration directly on the engines was very nearly the same, with his possibly having a bit of the "stumbling" that I suspect you are describing. Sitting inside the cars was an entirely different matter. The vibration of mine coupled much more severely into the frame and so was felt more dramatically in the seat. This leads me to believe that it could indeed be a motor mount issue OR (gulp) it simply could be the nature of the beast, although I "shudder" to think that they could have sold this car new with this kind of vibration. I imagine that as I have gradually run all the mid-grade gas out of it and replace it with 93, the vibration might be a bit less, but I could just be dreaming. The car is such a nice drive that I'm almost willing to concede the vibration. My mechanic still wants to spend a day with it and really try to sniff out the problem. I'll let you know if something works in this case. I'd suggest having the fuel injectors professionally cleaned (in the engine) if you haven't already. It made a significant difference in mine. The "cleaners" that you put in your gas, I recently read, can actually do more harm than good on the Nissan injectors (except for possibly the Red-Line brand). The cleaning I had done was about 100 bucks. They actually disconnect the fuel line from the filter and insert a "T" fitting, into which they inject cleaner for a fairly lengthy time while the engine is running (the machine also measure fuel pressure). Then it takes about 10-15 minutes of driving to finally "blow" out any residual cleaner. The dealer should have the machine to do this. Although, I doubt they would cover it under warrenty until maybe 60K? Couldn't hurt to go ahead and do it.

And to 320Cobra....your right. Even though mine is a '96 model. Hooked to a 5sp, it absolutlely hauls. 0 - 60 easily under 7 seconds in 2 gear. Unbelievable performance in a very practical car. Great power in 5th gear makes it a joy on interstate driving. Only three negatives on this model that I can find:

1. getting used to countering the torque steer under heavy acceleration. Not really that bad, but an adjustment if you're used to RWD.

2. lack of telescoping wheel is bad for driver's 5'10" and over. (Have no idea if this is available y2K) To sit comfortably back from the accelerator, I have to hold my arms completely straight to grab the top of the wheel.

3. And most annoying of all is the parking brake situated on the left side of the console so it hits the drivers leg. What in the world were they (not) thinking? I guess if only a small percentage are 5sp, they can afford a few poor design concepts. Fix these three things and it's the perfect car for a small family and for a guy who drives a 300Z during the week.

roxie1

Thanks for the tip rubyred1 - your car sounds awesome. But you'll never believe what happened today. The dealer that I'm working with found the Titanium w/sage with Xenon, HS, TC and splash guards on the west coast (I'm in Northern VA). It will be here in 2 weeks - $29,650 + tax & reg. Economy is out of site here too, though not as bad as in SF. Too many high tech millionaires in both places. But, I can't wait to drive the car. Your car sounds great, and what a great price you got. Thanks for the note, happy driving. Roxie1

oren1

Hello Roy,

Finally picked up my car from the dealer. It was there for three days. Here what was done base on the work order:

1. Reset Engine Specs.
2. Installed Tensioner Gasket.

I drove car home and seems OK with lights on and off. There still little more vibration with lights on than off. In the past it took few days before more vibration resurfaced. I will drive for a while and keep you posted.
What are you planning to do with your car problem?

pethelman

Oren1

Reset engine specs?

Boy, could they be any more vague. I really hate when they do that. Other than adjusting the idle speed, there's really nothing to adjust, except for maybe gapping the spark plugs. Of course disconnecting the battery for like 24 hours or so will cause the computer to forget any stored trouble codes, but I don't think this would fix anything.

Tensioner Gasket?

I sure would like to know exactly what and where this "tensioner gasket" is in the engine compartment. What model year are you dealing with? Was it a part that they added or was it a replacement part. The only tensioner that I can think of is perhaps the tension adjust for the drive belt (AC, crankshaft), or perhaps for the alternator. But a gasket? I'm stumped.

Any chance you could get some detailed info from the mechanics since this seems to have helped the problem a bit?

Thanks!

tankfrank

Drove the I30 and while my wife loves it I have headroom problems and leg room problems with the car. Has anyone had the seat supports modified? I need to add about an inch of headroom and 2 to 3 inches of legroom.

Thanks

pethelman

Thanks for the research! I'll follow up on this mystery part. Very odd about the three idle adjustments. Did it actually NEED adjusting three times or was this just "standard procedure?"

Somewhere along the way I missed what year model you're dealing with?

Also, did you have the link to that parts site?

Called the local Nissan shop just now on that part number. It is indeed a gasket for the TIMING CHAIN tensioner, used on 96-01 model Pathfinders and 00 and higher Maximas (and I assume I30s). This chain tensioner might be oil fed and thus the gasket, but I'm amazed that this would actually be a problem on a new car, unless it was somehow affecting your timing? Was the engine very "chattery" sounding before the repair? I imagine it was a good amount of labor to get to it and repair it?

Thanks again for the info!

mhammy84

pethelman: Unfortunately, I went over to K-Mart today and grabbed myself a bottle of Gumout Xtra Concentrated Fuel Injector cleaner solution, and added it to my tank today. I didnt get to your message above in time to know that I should not have done this. Anyhow, the car does not behave differently, and there is a lot of vibration. I dont think this car is "supposed" to be like this, as a friend who owned a '99 I30 was super smooth (you couldnt even tell the car was on). Also, this is an Infiniti, and as you said before, they couldnt possibly sell a car that vibrates when new. The temperatures have reached about 40's and 50's here, and when I take my car out after it has sat the night, it idles roughly and it sounds like a helicopter. I dont mean to say it is very loud, but if you were to sit in the cabin with all windows closed, and HVAC off, you could hear the engine, and it has a helicopter "chopper" noise to it, kinda like a "Dud-dud-dud-dud-dud" (say it pretty fast to get the full effect). There is also this "scratch" type noise I can hear from the engine compartment, and I asked the service manager ages ago (first visit) what that noise was, and he said it was the "Step Motor." I never had them look at it since, but it shows up under 1000RPMs, usually at idle, or under 5mph. The faster it revs below 1000, the faster the noise becomes, and they suspected a belt, but never looked into it any further.

Oren: so they took three days with your car?? At least they took some time with yours. I plan to take my car to a third party entity to see what they think...took it there today actually, but they were closed. I will call or talk to them either tomorrow or next week. They are a collision repair place, so I dont know how far they can go with my problem (i was referred to them by a friend). The problem really annoys me, especially since it has gotten worse over the last month or so. On your car, make sure you keep the headlights/foglights on, and steer the wheel at idle to see if it vibrates a lot. Try to gauge as best as possible whether or not you see any improvement from before the work was done. Thanks and keep me updated...

mhammy84

I think Oren's I30 is a '98, and I havent really heard from anybody who has a '00 with the vibration problem. Just the '96-'99, and the '95-'99 Maximas. Thats weird they put that part meant for a '00 I30 into a '98. Also, my idle was adjusted three to four times, who knows why. My guess is that the idiot service manager never really did adjust it, just said he did. The last time it was adjusted, it was done in front of me, while I held the computer and read off the idle speeds. The car vibrates just as much even after adjustment. My car was adjusted to a maximum Nissan spec speed of 700 RPMs, to no avail. My car is now adjusted to 650RPMs. Funny thing is, when I took it in the second or third time, thats when it was adjusted to 700 (the "maximum range limit within Nissan specs" as the service director put it). Then, when the company rep. came and did it in front of me, he said that it was WAY too low, saying it was set to 400RPMs (even though it didnt look like that on the computer). Doesnt seem like these "tech" people know what they're doing at all...I dont see any auto-mechanical-expertise present in ANY of those who represent the service dept. at my dealer. Pethelman, you seem MUCH more knowledgeable, I wish you could look at my car!! Well, keep me updated...

redskin24

try www.weathertech.com for trunk organizers, floor mats and other crap like that.

mhammy>>>>> if i was you, i wouldnt drive the I30 until it was fixed... if thats possible. id drive the acuras when i want speed and the camry when i want to relax...

oren1

Good morning pethelman and Roy,

My I30 is 1998 with 26000 miles on it.
Just to update you on the idle adjustments. The three times it was adjusted I did feel the difference in the way my car was idling.
After my first visit when I left the dealer I did not even feel that the car was running that how smooth it was, but few days later it started to vibrate again only when the car comes to the stop.
After my second visit, it ran fine even after few days went by. Roy ask me to try turn the lights on and see if it starts to vibrate. It did. So with the lights off it idle fine and with the lights on it sucked.
Now it is third visit when I also mention the engine knocking when the car sits for few days.
The technical adviser told me that Infiniti is aware of this problem and recommends to replace tensioner which causes the oil to drain. What I do not understand why the work order states that the gasket was replaced.
As far as vibration after the third visit it seems OK, but not perfect. It's acceptable. I hope it stays that way. If not I guess my next step is to report the problem to Infiniti.
To be frank with you I do not trust dealers with anything they do and say. I think that starting from 1995 to 2001 all Maximas and I30 have the same engines.
Here is the link to the Nissan Web Site where you can order parts www.nissanautoparts.com
Please keep me updated. Thank you

320cobra

To Negelkerk... how are you coming up with the $2k difference between the 300M and the I30? (difference before $3k rebate). My research is showing that a fully loaded 300M invoices for around $31,024 while a 2001 I30t (without navi)invoices for around $30,900. I'm comparing equal equipment on both cars (like sports package, upgraded stereo etc.). Thus, the only difference I see is the $3k rebate for a 2000 model year car which I would pay no more than invoice for. A friend of mine is a Chrysler technician and I did speak with him before buying the I30. He told me that the 300M's have been very good with no major problems reported and very few have come back to his dealership once sold. My only negative on the 300M was that my wife and I were not too crazy about the looks (you either love it or hate it) and the Chrysler buying experience in the past was not good (we have purchased Grand Cherokees before, a 93 and a 96). Overall, with the I30, you get a 2001 model year plus an extra year on the bumper-to-bumper warranty and don't forget about the 6 yr, 70k drivetrain warranty - best in the luxury class. We bought our I30t under the Nissan/Infinity Vendor Purchase Program for $900 under invoice. So for us, it was a no brainer. For you, it will probably come down to preference. Let us know which one you decide on.

To Pethelman... I agree that the torque on this front wheeler isnt that bad, but you do have to have both hands on the wheel at times (especially when I'm driving). Any time you want to try out your 300Z with my Cobra, just let me know. I'm sure it would be a lot of fun!

rkon01

mhammy84

Folks...I was looking on the internet, and came across "Grubb's Infiniti" dealership, I guess its in Texas. The website says they are the largest Infiniti dealership in the nation. So i went to their service page, and emailed their service people about my problem, and if they have heard of it before (again, since my service dept. doesnt think there is a problem with my car). I was surprised to get a response from someone over there, here is what I wrote to him:

hello, I came across your webpage which states that you are the Largest Infiniti dealership. with that in mind, you must have seen many issues
with Infiniti cars regarding service. Just wondering if you came across any Infiniti I30 cars between 1996-1999 with a problem in which the car vibrates a lot at idle, especially when there is a load on the motor (headlight/foglights on, turning the steering wheel, etc.). Did you also have any problems with fuel injectors going bad? Would you have any Technical service bulletins regarding these issues with the above stated model years? I really appreciate your reply to my questions...thank you...

This is what he wrote back:

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INQUIRY ABOUT THE I 30 ROUGH IDLE UNFORTUNATELY WE HAVE HAD MANY CASES INVOLVING THIS SITUATION. IN TALKING WE OTHER SERVICE DEPARTMENTS IT MAY BE MORE COMMON WHERE THE FUEL IS DIFFERENT CAUSING INJECTORS TO GO BAD. THEY ARE MANY REASONS FOR ROUGH IDLE FROM A BAD TPS, TO BAD MOTOR MOUNTS. I WOULD SUGGEST TO TAKING THE VEHICLE TO A INFINITI DEALER IN YOUR AREA FOE A BETTER LOOK. THANKS FOR THE EMAIL CHRIS VIOLA.

I followed up on his response, still waiting for a reply. I dont know if this is enough to get my dealer to start looking closer at my problem. It doesnt mention anything that was done to Oren's car. Feel free to comment...

royalruby1

Fantastic!! Your car sounds super slick. You got the color and those added goodies that you wanted, and it looks like you got a good deal too. Heated seats out here aren't really needed, but you need them in Va. The traction control would of been nice, but I'll survive without it. Drop a line here every once in awhile and let us now how it's going. My gas mileage could be better, but I hear it improves after a few thousand miles( I have 900 miles on it). I'm tracking the mpg weekly, and there's a slight increase in half city/highway miles, which is a round 20-21. We're going to Vegas in two weeks, and we'll see how all highway mileage goes. I may get a K@N air filter which may help mileage and HP. It's not lacking HP though. Pluses: I love the smooth, quiet ride, and the compliments we get. Minuses: The Bose's FM is a little boomy, the CD sounds much better. I love good sound, so I may tweak the system a bit. Maybe some tweeters in the back to add some highs in the rear area.

Later, and I'll be checking back to read everyone's invaluable info, and I'll do the same.

tom168

Here's a link to a very interesting discussion at Jeeps unlimited about K&N filters.
http://jeepsunlimited.com/ubb/Forum15/HTML/000503.html

george2kmax

Here's another link regarding K&N air filters.
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/european/mbmc/m7971.html
This iink surely will make me wonder about using
K&N air filters.

George

davide8

I am considering buying a 96 Infiniti I30 with 189k miles ($9900, but I think I can talk them down). The original owner has all the maintenance records and says they are all highway miles. I know that this I30 is supposed to have great quality, but does anyone have this # of miles on theirs? Does anyone think I should worry ?

redskin24

i wouldnt buy anything with that many miles. and definitely not that much money. no car lasts very much over 150,000 if it makes it there. the best ive seen is a 82 Honda Prelude, with 432,000 miles on the original motor. it aint a looker though. 189k highway miles is still 189k miles. another one i saw was a chevy lumina with 312k miles on the body, with 100k+ miles on its second engine. my point is, for $9900, you could find something with less miles that will last you longer. it may not be as luxurious though. brand new S-10 pickups dont go for much more than that, the same with Hyundais, Daewoos and some Toyotas. well anyway.....

pethelman

Just to set the record straight, there is no reason for the K&N filter to give you better mileage. Better throttle response, Yes. Slightly more power at top end, Yes.

The Mass Airflow Sensor directly on the other side of the filter, does exactly as the name implies...detects the mass (quantity) of air entering the throttle body. More air = more fuel in order to keep the mixture correct. So the computer should adjust the duration of the control pulse to the fuel injectors accordingly so that you don't have an overly lean mixture.

TO davide8:
Either offer him the mileage adjusted price of approximately $4000 or keep looking. You can do MUCH better. Try autotrader.com.

I just bought a very nice '96 with 85K miles, for 11.5K.

320cobra

OK, I know this is a dumb question, but where are the rear heat ducts located on the I30?. I have had the mode set to floor, but don't seem to notice any air coming out from under the two front seats. Someone let me know.

pethelman

320cobra,

Well, according to the service manual for my '96, there are two ducts that are very wide and thin (think like an airplane wing), that run directly against the center "hump" and then turn and open up directly against the floor under the seats. I thought the same thing. Put my hand directly behind the passenger front seat and I couldn't tell if there was any direct flow or if it was just the front floor vents forcing a little air under the seats by convection. If there IS air flowing, it sure isn't much. You can force the climate control unit into a self diagnostic mode, which will test all the damper doors, and mine checked out OK. I'd be glad to give you the procedure if you want to try it, that is, provided they haven't changed it for the new model.

pethelman

320cobra,

Vents are under the FRONT edge of the front seats, and as we suspected, they really don't put out a lot of air, probably just enough to keep rear passenger's feet from getting chilly.

mhammy and oren1,

Met a guy last night with essentially the same car as mine. Mine is a '96, 5sp with 86k miles, HIS was a '96, 5sp with 88k miles, only it was a MAXIMA. It was perfectly smooth at idle with no hesitation or stumbling or vibration to be felt anywhere. At least now I know it's theoretically possible to get a smooth idle out of this engine. Something is definitely not right if we have vibration. Question is: is it inherent to the engine - imbalanced crankshaft, flywheel, etc, or is it an ignition system problem. What an annoying problem.

mhammy84

thanks for the info about the smooth maxima. I have been dying to try one of the dealer's cars on the lot. One thing to remember is that some people have noticed this problem arise very quickly...meaning they buy the car new, and within a few thousand miles, the problem already arises. What "system(s)" that you mentioned above are susceptible to such pre-mature "malfunction" or "wear?" Yeah, the problem gets more annoying every day.

redskin24

How did it go at Amherst Collision?

mhammy84

sorry for not updating you on amherst collision, but i went there last week, and the owner was out (since the place was actually closing up). I got his card however, and then i sat back in the car, and was wondering how much he could really tell me about the mechanics of my car, considering that he specializes in collision and paint work. besides, i havent even had a chance to make an appointment for my 22,500 mile service with Autoplace. I will try to make it over there soon and update.

mhammy84

Seems like this message board has really died...that may not be a good thing!

sanchezm

For those looking for a new car, if you have decided 99% on what model you are looking, my personal advise based on recent experience is to check Carsdirect.com. I have a good experience buying a new car with them at the the lowest price comparing with quotes from different competing dealers (usually internet sales price are lower than what you see while dealing with salesmen - aside from the pressure of the salespeople). The price is around the TMV defined by Edmunds.com and the car is complementary delivered to your home or work. Thumbs up for CarsDirect.com, and thanks to Shaina Looks-Edny for her help.
I have asked for quotes on-line and by phone for the car I was interested, even calling out-of-state dealers, but the most memorable experience is asking a quote from CarsDirect.com. You have at least some comparables to look at in terms of pricing and I believe CarsDirect.com will beat those prices.

wraith5

Has anyone had recent (successful) negotiating
experiences in Chicago for an I30? After reading
waaaayy too many posts on this site and much
deliberation, I finally opted for the '01 I30
(Luxury) with heated seats, CD changer, Xenon
headlights, traction control and splash guards. My other options down the stretch were the TL
(uncomfortable seating) and the Max GLE (I just
like the I30 enough to pay the extra $$$ for it).
I'm ready to buy, but want to know if anyone is
making deals around here.

Thanx in advance.

hsuehhwa

Cardirect.com is excellent.
But last month i bought an I30t (2001) in tustin infiniti, ca $500 less than cardirect.

jm1022

Who did you deal with at Tustin Infiniti?

hsuehhwa

Hi, Jm1022:

I bought an 2001 I30t with sports package.

It's Al Desko in Tustin Infiniti.
He gave me a quote through email (from autoweb.com)which is a bit less than cardirect and hint there's still room for more discount.

I went to Tustin Infiniti showing the printout of Al's email quote and another guy Pat Cater (Al was off that day) took away another $400 in 10 minutes and we made a deal.

good luck

hsuehhwa

Just received my plate today.
Didn't find a place to install the front plate on my 2001 I30.

I think in CA i can get a ticket without installing the front plate.

Help needed. Thanks

redskin24

you need a front plate holder, dealer should have one or be able to order one

sanchezm

There is a plate holder contained in your I30 net at the compartment of your new I30. It comes with some crews needed to fasten to the front of your car. You have to install it yourself and the front of the car has already a location where you can screw the plate. If you don't see the holder that comes with the car, then you should go back to the dealer and ask for it. By the way how much did it cost you your I30touring (basic price) if you don't mind.

redskin24

if your state requires front plates, the dealer should have installed the holder... my dads I30 came with it installed, we live in NY.

maneesh1

my 2001 i30t also came with the front holder. Not only that, when the plates came in, the dealer installed both of them.

cincyi30

Hi Folks,
I am in the midst of buying a used I30. This is a 99 Limited edition with 8K miles. Everything is great except that as you take the car upto 40-45 mph, there is a high pitch sound that seems to come from the rear. By 60 mph or so, it starts going down but does not go away completely. Dealer thought it was the rear Yokohoma tires - replaced it with no improvement. The car has a wind deflector on the sunroof.

Any ideas/experience with this kind of problem?