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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu
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If a good friend was thinking of buying a new 2001 Malibu, would you recommend it or not?
Price range, because for extra $10k he could buy a bigger, better car.
Kids, because Malibu is sedan, with big and convenient rear doors, seats and trunk. For single, the Olds Alero is probably a better choice - due to the 3.4l engine.
Crash rating for front is good(4 star) but side impact is 2 star for 2000 (don't know about 2001) its up from 1 star on 99 or earlier models. Although it has side impact beam.
If anybody buying in Austin, TX then I would recommend go to Champion Chevrolet. Their customer service and service dept before and even after the purchase is extra ordinary great.
Especially Alex pena who worked there. I don't know about others but I guess everybody there is good.
My family really love our 1997 LS model. The bugs had been ironed out in the first year. I have tried another car such as Accord, Camry, and Taurus but they were too small for my tall size frame.
Enjoy shopping!
On another note, yes, I would definitely recommend the Malibu to a good friend!
I just bought a blue 2001 Malibu (also in Austin, also at Champion Chevrolet).
I've only had it for one week, but so far I love it. It feels like I got my money's worth.
My only regret is that I didn't opt for the remote keyless entry. I wish I had. Anyone know about getting this installed after market?
I purchased a new '98 Malibu LS in December 97. Selected it because of price and V6. I knew going into this that I could expect more vehicle problems than I had been used to. (Previously owned Subaru-156K miles, Acura-160K miles and 2 Hondas 130K and 90K) My experience with the previous cars was great - nothing more than the usual brakes, belts, tires, oil changes at the expected intervals. Of course, I take VERY good care of my vehicles. I'm a firm believer auto care has more to do with reliability than make or model - your car will take care of you as well as you take care of it. At least that is what I thought before I purchased the Malibu. Honestly, nothing but problems - some big, some little - 39 trips to the dealer in all including regular sevice trips.
Ok, I'm getting to the point, my latest problem loss of power. The Malibu experiences a loss of power and "bunny-hops" as one poster stated. I can't reproduce it but it has happened 7 times in the last two months under varying conditions. Now have 42,900 miles. It has been to the dealer 4 times for this specific reason. Yesterday being the 4th. The dealer has not been able to pinpoint the problem although he was able to experience it this last time and wants it back on Monday to do more diagnostics. The mechanic that did the test drive didn't have the portable computer connected so he could pull data when it happened and wasn't able to reproduce the problem after returning to the shop to get the unit - Thanks guys.
Anyone experience this problem and find a solution? If you haven't experienced this particular problem first hand you have no idea how frustrating it is! And it is definately a safety issue. Any assistance will be appreciated.
Read the manual that come with the car about two fuse boxes in car(one under the dashboard and another one above the engine). I have hard time of finding which fuse for the brake light. Did not notice any bad fuses that I might miss. Noticed several Malibus on the road at night with brake light out. Did you have any experience with this? Thanks! Greg
So I took it in to have it looked at, and was told that the circuit panel (where the bulbs plug into) was bad and that was causing the one bulb to burn out quickly. This was replaced under warranty, so I don't know what the cost would be to get a new one.
I have also seen several Malibu's driving around with the same problem. Must have been a manufacturing problem with the earlier models.
Just called my dealer and they believed there is a bad circuit. Well there is no factory recall at this time. They will call me back for the replacement cost soon. I will stop by the auto store tonight and see if they have it.
Checked the NTSB's consumer complaints section and there are no news about this. We need to report this incident to the NTSB since the Chevrolet does not recognize this as a serious problem.
Like the handling and cornering very much. Much better than Affinity in dry weather, as I expected from the performance tires.
But the difference is even higher on the wet pavement, absolutely no comparision, head and shoulders above. Practically the same as if dry.
This is important in our places: New England, hilly terrains, winding roads, fast changing weather.
Had no problem with the tire noise before nor after: always drive with tape on.
The SH-30 tires are substantially more stiff than Affinity. But I am also inflating them a bit higher, to 32/29: with my driving style all tires are wearing-out on edges first.
Do you know where i should go shopping on the internet?
1. Alero and the current GA are built on the Malibu platform. Already.
2. They are smaller cars than Malibu.
Good as coupe, but unconvenient as sedan. Hard to get to the rear seats, less legroom here. OK for occasional use, no way if you have kids.
Additionally, they have smaller trunk.
3. No difference in quality. Including the infamous brake rotors: the same parts.
4. Do you like the GA styling more than Malibu?
2. There were reports on this board about coolant leaks through the engine intake (or exhaust?) manifold or its gasket. It was hard to find and a major job to fix.
3. Are you sure this is a leak, not just an evaporation? The car manual says that it is OK to add coolant twice a year.
Only thing that caught my eye was this evening took the car for a ride. The car had sat since Friday afternoon, but given the rapid drop in temperature in NJ today, all the windows were fogged up. NO ICE. In my estimation, it took the rear defogger over 5 minutes just to clear the fog to where there was some visibility. Anyone with similar experiences/opinions?
Also, I noticed the lower back part of the seat kinda bulges out towards you. It gets a little uncomfortable. Is there an adjustable lumbar support available in the LS with leather seats or something? Or even individually? Let me know... Thanks!
I was not bad, especially considering the $1250 rebate matching the dealer's discount of $1250. I would have purchased the car on the spot, but the dealer was giving me nothing for my trade-in.
I used KelleyBlueBook.com for my reference price. They said my car has a "trade-in" value of $6515. The dealer offered me $5000. That is too big of a difference for me to overlook. A State Farm use car book said it has a "loan value" of $6000.
Has anyone found a good reliable source for determining what my car is worth?
gearhead4
As far as sedans go, the Malibu is the roomiest. The Grand AM and Alero look more like sport sedans so they sacrifice a bit in rear head room to improve the looks.
While I am not a sucker for Pontiac style, except the Grand Prix...but... the other day I saw a new Pontiac Grand AM GT red with tinted windows and I must confessed I really liked the distinctive racy/agressive/spacy looks of that little beast. The main advantage of the Grand AM/Alero combo is that you can get the awesome 3400 V-6 engine (Rated at 180 or 185HP) and with the stronger torque figures it can really move with authority the Grand AM GT "Ram Air" version. The 3400 V-6 turns the lighter N-Body cars into high performance pocket rockets...too bad this engine is not available in the Malibu (A Malibu GT Ram Air would rock!).
So to summarize:
If your "Sauce" is performance, go with the Grand AM GT or higher end Alero on either sedan or coupe versions. If your priorities are family comfort and a more restricted spending budget, then go with the Malibu.
Things to look out for on the N-Body cars:
* Durability concerns of front brakes
* Poor crash testing scores
* Not the best reliability record (Altough I am sure it really has improved)
* Dismal re-sale value (If you buy one, drive it to the ground)
Hope this helps.
In our experience: if you have kid(s) or plan to have, get Malibu. Too much trouble to get him/them to/from the rear seats with GA. And the kids also deserve comfortable, roomy place.
On other hand, for singles or child-less couples, I would suggest GA with V-6 engine over Malibu. The 3.4l engine have about the same power as the 3.1l, but much better torque. Especially important when entering highway.
Exception: if you have to back-up often. A crowded parking garage, parallel parking, etc. Malibu with its high trunk lid is not so good comcerning the rear view, but with the GA it is awful.
My father-in-law loaned us his 1998 Malibu LS (3.1 V6), and as a favor I thought I would change the oil for him. Big mistake...you CANNOT get the oil filter out of the engine bay area without spilling all the oil out of it all over the place...it doesn't come out cleanly either from the top or the bottom. To get the new filter in, I ended up bending the AC hose out of the way, then dropping the filter down into the front of the engine compartment from the top, and then going underneath to thread the filter on and tighten it. This is absolutely ridiculous. I'd really like to meet the so-called engineer who designed this crap. I really can't believe it.
Then, I notice that one of his brake lights is out, so I go to trak auto to get a new one...well, they don't carry a replacement bulb...for a 1998 car, they DON'T CARRY IT. I have gotten replacement bulbs for everything from Peugeots to Hondas, and they didn't have one for this Chevy...that is more crap. Just for kicks I decided I'd take the rear brake light cover off. 5 screws and some trim pieces and 10 later, I finally had it off, and had to snap off the back cover of the unit to get to the light bulbs. Unbelievable...some "qualified" engineer designed this ???? No wonder GM is going down the tubes. I suppose none of you all have to deal with these idiotic design goofs, because you probably don't change your own oil or replace light bulbs.
To contrast, I can change brake lights on my 1989 Honda in about 5 minutes (both sides) and the oil filter comes right out, no spills. Why can't GM do the same...it is a mystery to me...care to help me with an answer ???
As an engineer I live by a simple motto...KISS, Keep It Simple, Stupid. Obviously, changing out a whole tailight assembly is not going be as time consuming as taking a taillight unit out and then taking it apart to replace a bulb. You forgot that there are two wing nuts that must be removed to remove the carpet lining of the trunk and then there is a piece of trim that has to be removed in addition. (this may be different on your 99) KISS...it is alot simpler on other well designed cars. Care to explain to me why I can't get a brake light bulb at a local auto parts store ?? (Could it be because GM wants to charge me 5 dollars for a 50 cent part ??)
Also, thanks for the tip on removing some wing nuts and taking a plastic panel off the bottom of the car so I can cleanly remove the filter. What planet are you from ???? This is normal ?? I have never, ever, had to remove anything like that from any other car to get at the oil filter (I've done hundreds of oil changes). Again...KISS. It would seem to me that GM engineers could benefit from this lesson.
And as for your slam about "foreign car clones..." I don't quite understand it. The GM Malibu IS a foreign car clone. The design of the malibu is years behind the Honda Accord (Toyota Camry, Mazda 626, etc.) Drive one of those other cars, and you'll understand. The malibu was made to compete with Honda et. al. because GM was getting (and is still getting) hammered in the mid-size sedan segment.
Thanks for your comments, but I think we see this from different points of view. Oh, and I don't believe in luck.
Replacing the first pair of bulbs took less than 10 minutes, including cleaning carbon from contacts (but excluding buying the bulbs and sand-paper). Did it a parking lot of local Pep Boys. Next day replaced the bulbs on the other side; it took less than 5 minutes.
Yes, there are three nuts holding the rear lights assembly, and it is more convenient to move aside the felt carpet, after removing another two nuts. But the plastic nuts are big and it is very easy to remove them without any tool. 20 seconds for nut or so.
Do not remember any trim to remove. Probably, this is specific to the LS. My Malibu is a base model.
Likely, it was easy for me because I am not a mechanical engineer.
As to the bulb availability, I found them in the very first auto part store I visited. The Pep Boys even carries not one, but two sorts of bulbs: standard and long-life. Both are made by Sylvania. The standard ones are made in Slovakia.
I believe, the same bulbs are used in most of modern GM cars.
Trak Auto, our friendly neighborhood auto store is probably one of the worst auto parts stores around. Of course, that is a discussion for another time. I'll have to check out Pep Boys. Glad that it didn't take you that long to change out the bulbs. Sure, 10 mins. is not alot of time...I guess in my experience, it is just easier on other cars. Simple designs are better designs, the more you have to take off, (in my opinion) the worse the design. Maybe being an engineer doesn't help in these situations.
I really don't have much to say to you in reply Mr. Malibu, as it is obvious that this discussion is quickly degrading to the level of obscenities and personal attacks, which you must use to make your rather vacuous points about your beloved Malibu.
My main point was that the car is poorly designed, nothing more. I could find many automotive/mechanical engineers that would agree with me. I'm glad that it works for you and hope that you enjoy it in the future. I'd be interested to hear how you like your car after 100,000 miles. As far as it being a GREAT car... well, that is your opinion, and it is obvious that for you, ignorance is bliss.
I will now leave you to your blissful state.
Fare thee well... and once again, I do not believe in luck.
P.S. - Considering the fact that you have no idea who I am or how much I make, your statements are puzzling. For all you know, I could be a design engineer for Honda.
It amazes me that you would have to replace brake pads after 12,000 miles. Unless you drive like a race car driver, that is highly unusual. I would spring to have the rotors replaced at this point. Rotors should not warp at 12,000 miles or 20,000 miles through normal use. Sometimes the service people can warp the rotors on your car by overtorquing the lug nuts.
Also, cars can sometimes come right off the factory floor with warped rotors...the reason is "Bubba." Bubba is the fella at the end of the assembly line who gets paid 40,000 dollars a year to use a pneumatic gun to torque the lug nuts on your unsuspecting malibu. And while the torque spec is probably around 60 ft-pounds, Bubba makes sure that they are torqued to 100 ft-pounds or more...just so the wheels don't fall off. What Bubba doesn't realize is that overtorquing can instantly warp the rotors (you see, ignorance is bliss).
I have taken cars into the shop for brake pad replacement, or inspections, and after they did the work, the rotors were warped...even if they didn't touch them...basically they simply over-torqued the lugnuts, and warped the rotors. Always ask for lug nuts to be hand-torqued.
As far as turning rotors (rotors are NEVER resurfaced...they are simply ground down or "turned"), I wouldn't do it, for two reasons. One, the less rotor material there is, the less heat dissipation you get and that means you are going to cook your brakes if you use them much. The thinner a rotor gets, the easier they warp. Also, if rotors are surface hardened, the hardening will only penetrate the surface so deep, once you machine off this hardened layer, your rotors are basically going to turn to mush. I would bet that your rotors are below spec. since they turned them once already at 12,000 miles, and that may well have caused them to warp now, at 20,000 miles, due to poor heat disspiation. So, since it should still be within warranty, I'd have them slap on a new pair of rotors, AND hand tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
Hope this helps.
It turned to be that GM puts two bulbs in every rear brake light. The light works OK even when one of the bulbs burned out. But it is hard to see that it need replacement. At least need to know what to look for.
After changing both bulbs at one side, and learning about the two bulbs issue, I checked the light at the other side. It turned to be one of the bulbs also burned out.
GM recommends to replace the bulbs in pairs, even when one of them works fine.
Concerning Malibu:
The car had problems with quality / reliability in 97-98 (am not sure about the later years). The infamous warping front brake rotors, and a lot of small things. So-so OEM tires. And Malibu is more noisy, than it Japanese competitors, Camry and Accord.
But the brake lights is a no-issue.
First, in my experience, they were replaced only once in the two years I have the car.
Second, it takes roughly 20-30 minutes to drive to an auto parts shop, to find the bulbs here and to pay at check-out. The replacement itself is a small part of the total time. Even if it the bulbs could be replaced in zero seconds, the overall time would be about the same.
On the other hand, replacing them without screwdriver is very convenient. And, because the whole lights assembly is removable, I could verify the new bulbs without the outside help. Just put the assembly on the trunk lid, pressed the brake and watched how they work in the mirror.
malibu99, my college roommate has worked for Honda R&D in brake systems since we graduated. He drives an '86 Camry (same car he had in school, now with over 200K) as his daily driver and a '90 CRX with some cool one-of-a-kind cams other special non-production items that came out of R&D. He recently purchased a Prelude but that was only after working at Honda for quite a while. To say that if you work for an auto manufacturer you must be driving a late model vehicle of your employer's make is not accurate. In most cases, it's true but not always.
Take it easy,
L8_Apex
Sedans Host
I remember that 100 ft-lbs is the spec for the malibu, which seems high, but that is what it is. You might consider going to an aftermarket rotor, maybe a Brembo, or something like that, which may cost more, but might give you better service than a OEM rotor. If you want to go nuts, you could get cross-drilled rotors, and then you'd never have a problem with cooling, especially not on the road.
Be sure that they make these repairs under warranty. It doesn't seem right to me that you should have to pay for something that is mostly their fault.
Later !
I have grown tired. Dear kiddies, feel free to run about your fiefdom, as I am sure this post won't survive long either.
Mature conversation and this board cannot be used in the same sentence without using a negative.