Talk about frustrating...my A/C and sunroof just completely quit working. I picked up the car on Friday evening and on Tuesday, it's already in for warranty work. I can't wait to see what the cause is.
Worst part is that I had to ASK for a car to get home. I think if you take in a car for warranty, they should offer a loaner car no questions asked.
Hello-- I've bought a '02 Santa Fe LX. My wife digs it, so do I. I'd like to get an XG, but my old beater Lincoln is still working and is still "free".
I've been trying to find out if any changes are in the works for the '03 model. I'd like them to rework the backside of the car a bit. Or maybe offer a GPS NAV system as a dealer installed add-on...
I'd be interested to listen if anybody out there has any info..even if it's "no changes"
I'd be interested in what happened to Forgop's new cars elec. problem. Had a similar experience with my XG last month. Most elec. stopped working, windows, air, moonroof, radio, the list goes on. Took it to the dealer but by that time everything started working again and they could not find any problem. Anyone else with unexplained elec problems? Thanks
I picked up my car yesterday afternoon. Evidently the cause was a broken wire that is somewhere around where the sunroof closes and it was cut in half. I guess that shorted out the system and blew a fuse or something. Seems to be working fine now. I just wonder how many other people have had the same thing happen.
1. No memory retention on the cruise control-Is that something that happens to all Hyundai models or is that just something that might be wrong with the car? 2. Gas mileage is pretty disappointing. I don't think I'll ever hit the 26MPG on highway. I think my first tank was around 19 MPG. 3. Auto A/C system-Perhaps this is something wrong with the system. If I use auto, I think it should work like a thermostat in your house. If you set it to a certain temperature, it should cut off air flow in the car or such once the car has reached a certain temperature. I could set it to 68 degrees and I swear I could make ice in the car and it never seems to back off. Is this the way it's supposed to work???
Otherwise, I think it's an outstanding car for the money.
my first annoying problem i've encountered so far since i've own my XG300 since it's introduction was that the contact of the fuel release door kept on acting up which resulted in the release of the fuel door when driving... my dealer replaced the defective switch right away..which i was very happy about.
currently 34800KMs and no major problems.
PS> OCTANE rating... our cars can be filled up with '87 gas with no problem... but my car seems to like 91-92 octane gasoline better... (this is what i think... since Korea has only one TYPE OF GAS,don't know the octane rating, the engineers programmed the XG's ECU to run on their type of gas while still having the safety of running on 87 ocatane..) which means... our cars run on gas that has a higher octane rating of 87?
What do you mean by memory retention exactly? The cruise won't resume speed after you have slowed down or it won't resume after u have come to a complete stop? I think some systems will not resume speed once you have slowed down past a certain speed. As for fuel economy, Hyundai engines are notoriously tight and usually require a few oil changes before they loosen up and get better mileage. My Accent got low mileage when I first got it. It was supposed to get 28 in the city and I was getting anywhere from 23-26. After 12k miles, it suddenly improved to 28-29 consistently. Give your car some time to break in. You can't expect it to get the numbers on the sticker immediately. Lastly, my experience with other auto AC systems is that they interpret 68 to mean you want it as cold as possible in the car. I have yet to see an auto AC back off when set to the coldest setting of 68. I have always had to manually up the temp to 70-73 to get it to automatically back off. Anyway, hope this helps some of your concerns.
By memory retention, every other car I've driven or owned with cruise control would retain the 'on' position when the car was shut off, so all you'd have to do is hit the button on the steering wheel each time, rather than the cruise button on the dash each time you start the car. My brother has a Dodge Stratus, and he said he has to do the same thing, so I guess that's something not too peculiar with Hyundai or necessarily even this car.
I realize the gas mileage won't be the best just off the bat. It now has around 750 miles on it and I think I'm going to have the oil changed tomorrow. (Shop teacher in high school advised to not to exceed 55MPH, and vary the use(stop and go, highway, etc and change the oil after 500 miles). Following that, I have a '94 Cavalier with 149k miles with zero engine problems at all, so it's been good advice I believe.)
I've realized with the A/C that it doesn't seem like it would ever slow down when I've had it 70 or below. After it's cooled off and I back it off to 75 or so, it seems to keep the car about the right temperature I believe. Just thought it would seem to work kinda like a thermostat in a house more than it does.
I did take it driving about 150 miles on the interstate and appears to have done much better looking at the gas gauge, so we'll see.
I've got 2800 miles on mine and I'm still trying to understand some stuff. I've posted this Q before, and received some responses, but I'm still confused about the Auto A/C, especially regarding the Recirc button.
Since it's been hot here in NJ, when the system comes on in AUTO, the green RECIRC light starts out ON. I got that part. What I'm confused about is:
A. Do I have to press that center button manually to enable the Noxious Fumes Auto Detect cutoff to operate automatically? This seems funny--like, why wouldn't I want this auto cutoff to be enabled all the time?
B. I've tried pressing this button at different times, and the operation seems erratic. This morning, with outside temp reading 75F and inside setting set to 72F, pressing the button turned both lights ON. Pressing the button again turned both lights OFF.
C. I also note that the normal RECIRC light stays on for a long time when driving. What's up with that? Is it trying to reduce the inside humidity? If so, what's the limit? After 15 minutes of driving on a hot day, the recirculated plastic-y new car smell makes me have to open a window for fresh air.
D. The system has a photocell daylight sensor that seems to influence the fan speed. On partly cloudy days, driving through sun and shadows, the fan speed changes minute to minute. This is distracting (maybe because I'm concentrating on it). Is this really necessary?
E. Why, exactly, does the system NOT work more like my home thermostat?
F. With the inside temp setting set to 72F, cold air comes out of the vents. If I lower the inside air temp to, say, 68F, will COLDER air come out of the vents, or just more air at the same temp? In other words, does the temp setting add warm air to the cold air flow?
I've performed the system check (as detailed on the Hyundai Web Site) and the system reports no errors.
To the fellow in NJ. I'm in NY and often have the temperature set to 68 or 69. Yes, the system does cut down when the temperature reaches 68 0r 69. it works just like your home thermostat. The temperature of the air from the vents will vary with the temperature of the car. As it gets cooler the temperature of the air emitted will drop.
However, I also am confused by the recirc and fesh air buttons, particularly when both buttons come on. Anybody have any ideas?
While I can't say what changes will actually make it over to the North American market, the new Korean market XG350 has a number of small improvements. A navigation system is available on the car, but I remember a Hyundai executive just recently saying that, given Hyundai's price point in the US and its customer base, the company didn't feel that offering telematics systems was a high priority. Hence, I wouldn't expect the nav system to make it to our shores.
Another change is to the exterior illumination. The front bumper and fog lights have been redesigned to match the look of those on the Sonata and Tiburon. HID lamps are now offered in the main headlights (something which I again doubt will carried over to the US), and the shape of the lenses has changed a little. I think that the brake lights now contain LED's (I could be wrong on that), and now wrap into the trunk to create a much more pleasing rear-end appearance for the car.
The wheels remain at 16-inches, but have again changed in style to a flatter multi-spoke design. Overall, the changes make the car look a lot like the last-generation Infiniti Q45.
Also changed is the look of the instrument cluster. It appears as though the "wavy" look is out and has been replaced with a more Lexus-esque design.
The price of the top Korean model is between US$26,00-27,000.
Although I think my XG350L was a good value, I think the auto editors are correct when they say this car is not refined as much as other cars in its size class. Yes the others are more expensive but I think that the 2 - 4K more, out weighs the problems I am encountering in my first 1200 miles. The surging is terrible, the heating/vent system is as confusing as I have ever seen, the brakes on mine definetly must have a warped rotor because the shimmy is unbelievable when braking from 40 to 20 mph, the engine is rough at idle as I can actually feel the vibration in the steering wheel and seat, and lastly as of yesterday I now own a G350. The X and the L fell off when I was washing the car yesterday! I will be returning to the dealer very soon with this car.....Good value but sometimes value doesn't rate above aggravation.
Although I just complained about this car, i just found a cool undocumented feature. The headrests not only go up and down, in the back seats they also go forward and backward and the front ones also pivot top to bottom on an angle....cool!
I had a lemon 99 expedition that I loathed, then an 01 kia optima which had problems from Day 1. I just picked up my 01 xg300 (a former rental vehicle with 18k miles) and I absolutely adore it! The engine purrs like a brand new car. The doors close with a solid thunk. It cools down quickly from the hot sun. There's plenty of room for the baby seat in the back. And the acceleration in manual option is fun! The tranny is nice and smooth. Huge trunk. Great sound. I love the little drawer under the stereo. Never saw one before (I have a junk drawer on the road, too).
I got such a deal that I'm forbidden by law to tell you how inexpensively I picked this up for (kidding, but not really). Yesterday, someone in a late model Maxima slowed down to check out my ride. I was filled with pride, natch. I'll keep you posted on mileage, problems etc. For now, I'm in driver heaven.
1) After coming to a stop, at appox. 55+MPH....Car Starts to Surge and actually Moves a few inches forward....NEED TO TAKE IN....Took in once already and Hyundai stated Front rotors were warped and resurfced.....
2) License Plate Lights do not always go on...Have to lightly hit bumper for lights to go on...NEED TO TAKE IN
3) Trip odometer Left Side (first quater part) is now faded out...Product is on Order, Already took in.............
4) When on expressway 75-80MPH on a flat surface, cruising...Once I stop pressing Gas Pedal...Tranny shifts down a gear....NEED TO TAKE IN
5) When going up a slightly large upgrade....tranny likes to stay in 4th too long before shifting...its not normal.....NEED TO TAKE IN
5) Never use the AC...Used twice since bought new....Used today and it really isnt all that cold when at 62'F....
-------the most annoying problem ------- 6) Upgraded Tires to Toyo FZ4 225/45/17.....Had rebalance done and rotated...Had alignment Checked (alignment was ok) ....Put Hub Rings on...Steering wheel still shakes and Vibrates... Put Stock tires back on, and the Shaking and Vibrating is still there, not as much, but is there....Nobody knows what is causing this??
still great car for the price...wish hyundai would have better service...at least the dealer i go to......
For the record I am in the market for a new car and have been investigating the XG350L. This car appears too good to be true. I've got to be honest that after reading a bunch of the messages here, with the transmission problems and paint falling off??? I'm a little unsure now.
Does anyone have a problem with vibration in their 2002 XG350L? When stopped in gear, mine vibrates enough so I can feel it in the steering wheel and seat. The dealer says its normal for this car because of the way the torque converter is designed. For 26K Hyundai could have done a better job. Also, the dealer had to turn the front rotors AGAIN because of a pulsating in the car as I braked.
let me start by asking hyundaima what his job is with hyundai,you have to be working for the factory by some of the statements you made-correct me if i am wrong. my name is JOE GRIFFIN,the tech that worked on sobrights xg300 for the brake problem and now i can set the record straight for all of the people that posted and read the postings about this problem,as well as to answer a lot of other problems that have been incountered by other owners.I AM NO LONGER WORKING FOR A HYUNDAI DEALER AND HAVE NO REASON TO EVER RETURN TO ONE. The brakes on sobrights xg300 were installed incorrectly as to the lines going to the correct wheels,lines to the rear wheels were crossed at the junction below the master cylinder,factory sealer on the splice couplers was broken by me.If any of you would like to see these connectors look under the master cylinder on a bracket with two lines connecting at the bracket,these are the lines to the rear wheels,one line goes to each wheel if you have antilock brakes-one line connector will have one color of sealer on both sides of the connector and the other line will have another color of sealer.When I corrected the lines on sobrights xg300 the colors were mismatched,with the lines crossed when the wheel speed sensor detected a speed lose,the signal was sent to the abs controler for more pressure to be applied to the other wheel as well as to release pressure on that wheel,these applied and released pressures were going to the wrong wheels-under a antilock braking stop the right rear wheel LOCKED AND SLID THE CAR INTO A RIGHT TURN-I turned a complete 90 degrees from 40 mph on dry road under this condition.Alot of disbelief has seemed to be given to sobright about this problem,and I am sorry that I could not answer before now.As for hyundai,the factory rep that was involved with his problem understood what was happening as soon as I told him what I had found and started proceedings to resolve the problem with sobright,but he was reassigned to another district vere soon.The new rep stated that I did not need to state on the repair order what was found wrong with the lines and the legal department had decided not to pay any of the claim for parts or any labor on this vehicle,so everyone lost on this vehicle,the owner,the dealer and me. As for the airbag problems some of you are having there is a recall on the wiring under the seats. As for trans shifting,reprograming the tcm can correct some of the problems,but most of this as well as the surging is from the drive by wire gas pedal,there is a bulletin on correctng the problems with this as well as resetting the memory for the correct shifting.As for any other problems I will answer anything I can for you. Thank you and again I am sorry I was unable to answer this concern before toyolatic
Please add any other comments you have about other Hyundai vehicles in the Elantra, Sonata, etc. threads. Owners there would appreciate any other "inside" info you can offer or problems you've encountered. I have an Elantra and would like to know that you've found no miswiring, etc. Thanks!
Are all those problems that you described on sobright1's xg300 specific to his car or generally found on any xg300? I have had quite a few problems on going including AIRBAG-light-on and tranny lunging at certain speed etc. I have given up taking to service for these problems living up with them so far. Wind noise and engine noise problems are still with me after tryign to fix them two times in a row.
See message 1120 & 1125. What do you think. The dealer says the vibration is normal for this car because of the way the torque converter is made. What do you think...Thanks. Also there seems to be a piece of lumber bouncing around uder the car when cold...dealer can't find anything but then again the rettle coming from the rear deck was the seat belt banging against the pillor post acording to the dealer. Ya right....its still there and nothing is touching the pillor.....theres also 4 feet between the pillor and rear deck hahaha. This car will be going back again.
Let me start out by saying some of the info you need on your vehicles can be found at www.hmaservice.com,when you get on website look under webtech.This is the public side of their service info system,info is limited but you can get some help. Now to some of your problems,to all,NO viberation or pulsation is NORMAL,some engines will have a slight ruffness at idle in park because of the fuel and ignition timing changing so many times as needed to maintain correct emission levels,but when trans is put into gear the ruffness should go away.Some have stated their vehicles had a delay of engagement when shifting into drive or reverse,Hyundai states that a delay of some time is normal,but any delay over 5 sec is not normal,when your vehicle delays longer is a sign of something not working properly,this delay can be caused by hydraulics in the trans,to much space in the clutch packs in the trans,the electronics of the trans or the engine preformance. all xgs do not have a cable from the gas pedal to the throttle body,they have a cable that runs from a throttle control,electrical sensor,to the throttle body.This is simply called drive by wire,you push on the pedal moving a sensor that inturn moves a cable for the engine to speed up,if this system is not adjusted or working correctly you will have a sag or hesitation as well as some time a delay in engagement of the trans.Have the dealer double check the operation of this system,I have found a lot of them out of correct adjustment,also have the dealer check on any campaigns that are needed on your vehicle.Some xgs were put into production with a pcm that was not correct for the vehicle,this is listed as campaign 048,this was on 300s only as well as campaign 052 for the rerouting of the side air bag wiring.T he problem with all Hyundai wiring is the mating of their terminals,they dont fit correctly,none of the male terminals fit the female terminals causing loose connections,open circuits and a world of problems for the people that drive these vehicles,on the air bag problem before the campaign Hyundai stated to tweak or twist the male terminals 10 degrees to make contact with the female terminals,but as many of you know by now the movement of the seats caused this light to come back on,this campaign is to reroute the wiring and secure it in a way that the movement of the seats will not let the terminals brake connection,a word of wisdom,if your seats are ever removed for any reason be sure the wiring is reinstalled as per the campaign. To some of the other problems,Sonotas,loose connections on wiring,window regulators,trans problems,engine misfires-more than normal on other manufactures.Dont get me wrong all manufactures have problems,but seam to be more help to the service techs and the owners. Sante fe as wel as Sonotas have a problemon the v6 engines of some times when they are started the engine runs ruff,misfires,trans jerks in and out of gear and on shifts,this is cause by the crank sensor,campign 049-replace the crank sensor with a new design,both of these engines of some manufactor dates also have a campaign to replace both upstream o2 sensors and reprogram the pcm,Santa fe-campaign TO5-Sonota-campaign TO7,this will increase the preformance of the engines as well as to eliminate some of the other problems of the misfires and check engine lites that are always coming on to iritate the owners. Have to get some rest now but will poist more later,I will try to answer any question any of you have to the best that I can. Thank you toyolatic
Unfortunately, the folks who use this site have long been in need of the assistance of a mechanic. That said, Im sure that your skills will be overutilized and hope that you can bear the excessive traffic which you will likely receive. Similar to many others Ive experienced transmission problems with my 2001(purchased Jan-01) XG-300-L especially; a "shuddering" or vibration on the 3rd-to-foutrh gear upshift on level ground (motor fully warmed-up) when normally accelerating at about 2,400 RPM. Original transmission was replaced due to this condition at (1,200mi.) yet the problem has continued with the new transmission and the car now has 33,000miles. At about 17,000 miles, the Factory Rep. from Richmond; VA. said that the shuddering might have been caused by a bad batch of transmission fluid shipped from Korea and subsequently the transmission fluid was changed. This seemed to have initially alleviated but not eliminated the problem, and I've been living with the "shuddering" condition since. It has however not gotten any worse and I'm somewhat hesitant to insist that the dealer attempt another fix because it might make the condition worse. Also, the car now will occasionally "bump," somewhat forcefully, into reverse, when shifted into that gear from the Neutral position. Any thoughts? Moreover, are you aware of any after market sources for parts, air filters etc for Hyundais, since I prefer doing much of my own servicing. Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks for the info on the vibration. I will be returning to the dealer shortly as the X & L badging which they had to order has come in. This is my second Hyundai,I also own an Elantra '99 and there are 5 other Hyundais in my immediate family. We all agree, the xg350l is a poor mans luxury car. If you can't afford a real luxury car don't line Hyundai's pockets on this one. It just isn't worth the 26K they get for it. It has all the features but you seem to lose on quality. The Koreans like to make money too so they are not going to give anything away that the other car manfucturers aren't. They have to cut somewhere to keep the profit line up.
Toyo I'm planning to install a remote starter which I can use off the existing remote. (Its connected up to the door unlock switch. when it receives 2 pulses in 3 secs. it engages the starter)The problem is this remote has no range. I have to be about 15 feet from the car for it to work. I think that if I can extend the antenna I might be able to get more range out of it. I think I might have found the unit on the website tech docs but I haven't looked for it in the car. Is it located to the left of the steering wheel behind the knee panel? If thats where it is I'll see if i can figure out a way to extend the antenna there by extending the range of the fob. This is the XG350L. Also, what does fob stand for?
After the hot July in New York, i think I just figured out how the air condtioning works. When started, the right button glows, indicating complete recirculation. When you touch the left button the left button glows, and maybe the right one goes out and maybe it does not. It seems to be dependent upon the temperature differential between the air emitted from the vents and the temperature desired and dialed in. If the logic determines the diffential is small and the car can be continued to be cooled down with fresh air, the right recirculation button goes off. If not, it stays on and I believe it defeats the fresh air button on the left. I have also seen the fan change speed accordingly. I have seen the right, recirculation, button cycle on and off,increasing or decreasing the cooling effect, as the car heats up and cools down. Quite sophisticated. As to cooling below 70F, I have no problem-if your does not, take it back in.
There is this irritating clanking sound coming from under my 300L.It seems to be prevalent on the right rear. Sounds like the muffler hitting the under side, but that's not it. Have had the car for a little over a year with 20k miles. Everything is working great, except for this mystery noise. Have taken it in twice to have it checked, can't find anything. It even happens when I go over simple undulations on road surfaces. Realized it's getting louder now. Any leads from my fellow XG owners especially toyolatic. Thanking you all in advance.
If getting wind noise,have the dealer adjust the door.This should eliminate any noises.They don't all need this adjustment.Mine has never had any noises or rattles.
What did you mean by "adjust the door"? I have had dealer fix the wind noise on the passenger side two times in vain. I don't know what they did but it sounds tad worse now than the first noise level before the first fix. I have been living up with the noise since the second fix.
I had wind noise only on the drivers door and the dealer adjusted the window. Mine was hanging up on the weather strip ( the hard rubber portion ) the even wanted to order and strip cause it showed some marks where the glass was hitting it but I told them not to bother and to leave well enough alone. As for the hard shift or that sudden burst of power, mine has stopped doing that completly. I believe that it's from one of two things (1) it has finally figured out how I drive or (2) I'm the only one driving it since I bought the wife a new Explorer. Had mine since Feb 2001 and have just turned over 12K. Going in next week to have the air bag wiring recall done since the parts are now in.
Hey everyone! I just bought 2002 XG350L and I'm more than happy with it. Everything is nicely designed and all are working just fine. As I was reading the posts, I noticed that many of you complained about sudden surge of speed when the car starts out. I just picked the car up on Tuesday, 30th and I now can understand what you were talking about. It's not that bad so I'm planning to stick it out for a couple of month. I also read that for some of you, it went away so I'll just wait until the car is properly "break-in". Just one question though, can anybody tell me how to break-in a new car properly? ALL I know is to drive the new car with caution, don't go above 60mph until 3000 miles. And someone also told me that it is good for the car if you change the oil when it reaches 750 miles for the first time and then go back to every 3000 mile period. What else can I do? Please respond. Thank you.
I have had my XG350L since March. I was told by Hyundai not to drive over 55mph and not over 3000rpm for the first 1000 miles. I had some hesitation and surging during the first week. I then received a call from the service manager at my dealership that I needed to bring it in to have the transmission re programmed. That cleared up all the problems. The car has been perfect!!
I have always heard to change the oil after the first 500 miles to remove any metal filings from the new engine. I don't know if it's true or not, but for a $20 oil change, why take a chance? Hyundai recommends oil changes every 7500 miles. I go every 5000 just because it is easier to keep track.
Hyundai actually recommends oil changes every 3,750 miles. One good rule of thumb when breaking a car in is to vary your speed as much as possible. You don't want to hit cruise control and hold it on a certain speed for miles and miles. In fact, it's a good idea to stay away from cruise control for the first few thousand miles other than to test it briefly.
Hyundai actually does not recommend oil changes every 3750 miles. The dealer may (like mine), but Hyundai recommends oil changes like most other manufacturers -- every 7500 miles.
Hello everyone! I've read through many of your postings but not all. I just purchased an XG350L one week ago and am thrilled with it. I really enjoy driving it. I have noticed some intermittent surging type things but not really all that bothersome. I bought mine here in Dayton, Ohio and had a great purchase experience! My question is this, after getting out of the car at work this morning I noticed 2 spots just below the driver side door that looks like paint is pealing away. Has anyone else had this problem at all? I plan to call the dealership this morning to speak with our salesperson. Hopefully I won't have any problems with getting it taken care of. Thanks to all of you for your informative posts. Only have a little over 100 miles on the car but it is GREAT!!!
I had the same problem when I bought it September 2001. Paint was chipping off two or three spots along the line where body and bumper meets. I had to wait for Hyundai regional service manager to come out to take a look for an approval. Upon approval I had to take it in for repair two times because body shop chosen by the dealer failed to match the original color (Pearl Ivory). I gave up and the same problem is still with me. The paint problem was the very first problem before five or six different kinds of problems to come. As I mentioned several times, I am still living with the pesky wind noise and engine noise problems that could not be fixed after two tries. Oh, I almost forgot one more problem. AIRBAG light stays on continuously after dealer said they fixed it. I gave up taking it in to dealer every other week after I had to do it about seven times in about three months since I bought it on 9/9/01. I am finally used to driving it with those three problems, irreparable problems so to speak. I do hope mine is the only lemon with so many problems. It still runs good though despite all those noises.
Regardless of what the log shows, the recommended interval is 7500 miles. Your manual will say so, and the website says so. My Elantra manual also has accommodation for 3750 mile intervals, but that is not the recommendation. It is handy for those of us who prefer more frequent oil changes, etc.
Comments
Worst part is that I had to ASK for a car to get home. I think if you take in a car for warranty, they should offer a loaner car no questions asked.
I've bought a '02 Santa Fe LX. My wife digs it, so do I. I'd like to get an XG, but my old beater Lincoln is still working and is still "free".
I've been trying to find out if any changes are in the works for the '03 model. I'd like them to rework the backside of the car a bit. Or maybe offer a GPS NAV system as a dealer installed add-on...
I'd be interested to listen if anybody out there has any info..even if it's "no changes"
Thanks.
Thanks
2. Gas mileage is pretty disappointing. I don't think I'll ever hit the 26MPG on highway. I think my first tank was around 19 MPG.
3. Auto A/C system-Perhaps this is something wrong with the system. If I use auto, I think it should work like a thermostat in your house. If you set it to a certain temperature, it should cut off air flow in the car or such once the car has reached a certain temperature. I could set it to 68 degrees and I swear I could make ice in the car and it never seems to back off. Is this the way it's supposed to work???
Otherwise, I think it's an outstanding car for the money.
my first annoying problem i've encountered so far since i've own my XG300 since it's introduction was that the contact of the fuel release door kept on acting up which resulted in the release of the fuel door when driving... my dealer replaced the defective switch right away..which i was very happy about.
currently 34800KMs and no major problems.
PS> OCTANE rating... our cars can be filled up with '87 gas with no problem... but my car seems to like 91-92 octane gasoline better...
(this is what i think... since Korea has only one TYPE OF GAS,don't know the octane rating, the engineers programmed the XG's ECU to run on their type of gas while still having the safety of running on 87 ocatane..) which means... our cars run on gas that has a higher octane rating of 87?
Recently SK Gas started selling premium gas(95octane) which is about 20% more expensive. This is mostly for high performance cars.
I realize the gas mileage won't be the best just off the bat. It now has around 750 miles on it and I think I'm going to have the oil changed tomorrow. (Shop teacher in high school advised to not to exceed 55MPH, and vary the use(stop and go, highway, etc and change the oil after 500 miles). Following that, I have a '94 Cavalier with 149k miles with zero engine problems at all, so it's been good advice I believe.)
I've realized with the A/C that it doesn't seem like it would ever slow down when I've had it 70 or below. After it's cooled off and I back it off to 75 or so, it seems to keep the car about the right temperature I believe. Just thought it would seem to work kinda like a thermostat in a house more than it does.
I did take it driving about 150 miles on the interstate and appears to have done much better looking at the gas gauge, so we'll see.
Just out of curiousity, is it possible to RAISE a window with the remote, do the same for the passenger window, or the sunroof even???
Thanks!!!
The SK stations around here(Kangnam) don't have it.
Thanks!
I've got 2800 miles on mine and I'm still trying to understand some stuff. I've posted this Q before, and received some responses, but I'm still confused about the Auto A/C, especially regarding the Recirc button.
Since it's been hot here in NJ, when the system comes on in AUTO, the green RECIRC light starts out ON. I got that part. What I'm confused about is:
A. Do I have to press that center button manually to enable the Noxious Fumes Auto Detect cutoff to operate automatically? This seems funny--like, why wouldn't I want this auto cutoff to be enabled all the time?
B. I've tried pressing this button at different times, and the operation seems erratic. This morning, with outside temp reading 75F and inside setting set to 72F, pressing the button turned both lights ON. Pressing the button again turned both lights OFF.
C. I also note that the normal RECIRC light stays on for a long time when driving. What's up with that? Is it trying to reduce the inside humidity? If so, what's the limit? After 15 minutes of driving on a hot day, the recirculated plastic-y new car smell makes me have to open a window for fresh air.
D. The system has a photocell daylight sensor that seems to influence the fan speed. On partly cloudy days, driving through sun and shadows, the fan speed changes minute to minute. This is distracting (maybe because I'm concentrating on it). Is this really necessary?
E. Why, exactly, does the system NOT work more like my home thermostat?
F. With the inside temp setting set to 72F, cold air comes out of the vents. If I lower the inside air temp to, say, 68F, will COLDER air come out of the vents, or just more air at the same temp? In other words, does the temp setting add warm air to the cold air flow?
I've performed the system check (as detailed on the Hyundai Web Site) and the system reports no errors.
Thanks for any help or ideas about this system.
Art Constantine
Middletown, NJ USA
My guess is September...but it's just that...a guess.
Ask for premium gas(pu - ri - mi - um gi rum -_-; .. in Konglish). It's about 1450 won.
And just so you know, it won't help your XG. XG's engines are'nt made for such high octane gas.
However, I also am confused by the recirc and fesh air buttons, particularly when both buttons come on. Anybody have any ideas?
Another change is to the exterior illumination. The front bumper and fog lights have been redesigned to match the look of those on the Sonata and Tiburon. HID lamps are now offered in the main headlights (something which I again doubt will carried over to the US), and the shape of the lenses has changed a little. I think that the brake lights now contain LED's (I could be wrong on that), and now wrap into the trunk to create a much more pleasing rear-end appearance for the car.
The wheels remain at 16-inches, but have again changed in style to a flatter multi-spoke design. Overall, the changes make the car look a lot like the last-generation Infiniti Q45.
Also changed is the look of the instrument cluster. It appears as though the "wavy" look is out and has been replaced with a more Lexus-esque design.
The price of the top Korean model is between US$26,00-27,000.
I got such a deal that I'm forbidden by law to tell you how inexpensively I picked this up for (kidding, but not really). Yesterday, someone in a late model Maxima slowed down to check out my ride. I was filled with pride, natch. I'll keep you posted on mileage, problems etc. For now, I'm in driver heaven.
Update 01' XG300 w/43,000 Miles------
1) After coming to a stop, at appox. 55+MPH....Car Starts to Surge and actually Moves a few inches forward....NEED TO TAKE IN....Took in once already and Hyundai stated Front rotors were warped and resurfced.....
2) License Plate Lights do not always go on...Have to lightly hit bumper for lights to go on...NEED TO TAKE IN
3) Trip odometer Left Side (first quater part) is now faded out...Product is on Order, Already took in.............
4) When on expressway 75-80MPH on a flat surface, cruising...Once I stop pressing Gas Pedal...Tranny shifts down a gear....NEED TO TAKE IN
5) When going up a slightly large upgrade....tranny likes to stay in 4th too long before shifting...its not normal.....NEED TO TAKE IN
5) Never use the AC...Used twice since bought new....Used today and it really isnt all that cold when at 62'F....
-------the most annoying problem -------
6) Upgraded Tires to Toyo FZ4 225/45/17.....Had rebalance done and rotated...Had alignment Checked (alignment was ok) ....Put Hub Rings on...Steering wheel still shakes and Vibrates...
Put Stock tires back on, and the Shaking and Vibrating is still there, not as much, but is there....Nobody knows what is causing this??
still great car for the price...wish hyundai would have better service...at least the dealer i go to......
-Lupo79
San Diego, California
Also check out the new Buick Regal
http://www.autoshow21.com/zine/new/temp_1.asp?csname=New%20Car%20>%20±¹³»&cscode=kore&dsnumber=570
And look at the NEW??? Daewoo L6 Magnus
http://www.autoshow21.com/zine/new/temp_1.asp?csname=New%20Car%20>%20±¹³»&cscode=kore&dsnumber=563
VERY SIMILAR....can't wait to see the prices....
There are some cool concept cars here as well...
For the record I am in the market for a new car and have been investigating the XG350L. This car appears too good to be true. I've got to be honest that after reading a bunch of the messages here, with the transmission problems and paint falling off??? I'm a little unsure now.
my name is JOE GRIFFIN,the tech that worked on sobrights xg300 for the brake problem and now i can set the record straight for all of the people that posted and read the postings about this problem,as well as to answer a lot of other problems that have been incountered by other owners.I AM NO LONGER WORKING FOR A HYUNDAI DEALER AND HAVE NO REASON TO EVER RETURN TO ONE.
The brakes on sobrights xg300 were installed incorrectly as to the lines going to the correct wheels,lines to the rear wheels were crossed at the junction below the master cylinder,factory sealer on the splice couplers was broken by me.If any of you would like to see these connectors look under the master cylinder on a bracket with two lines connecting at the bracket,these are the lines to the rear wheels,one line goes to each wheel if you have antilock brakes-one line connector will have one color of sealer on both sides of the connector and the other line will have another color of sealer.When I corrected the lines on sobrights xg300 the colors were mismatched,with the lines crossed when the wheel speed sensor detected a speed lose,the signal was sent to the abs controler for more pressure to be applied to the other wheel as well as to release pressure on that wheel,these applied and released pressures were going to the wrong wheels-under a antilock braking stop the right rear wheel LOCKED AND SLID THE CAR INTO A RIGHT TURN-I turned a complete 90 degrees from 40 mph on dry road under this condition.Alot of disbelief has seemed to be given to sobright about this problem,and I am sorry that I could not answer before now.As for hyundai,the factory rep that was involved with his problem understood what was happening as soon as I told him what I had found and started proceedings to resolve the problem with sobright,but he was reassigned to another district vere soon.The new rep stated that I did not need to state on the repair order what was found wrong with the lines and the legal department had decided not to pay any of the claim for parts or any labor on this vehicle,so everyone lost on this vehicle,the owner,the dealer and me.
As for the airbag problems some of you are having there is a recall on the wiring under the seats.
As for trans shifting,reprograming the tcm can correct some of the problems,but most of this as well as the surging is from the drive by wire gas pedal,there is a bulletin on correctng the problems with this as well as resetting the memory for the correct shifting.As for any other problems I will answer anything I can for you.
Thank you and again I am sorry I was unable to answer this concern before
toyolatic
Are all those problems that you described on sobright1's xg300 specific to his car or generally found on any xg300? I have had quite a few problems on going including AIRBAG-light-on and tranny lunging at certain speed etc. I have given up taking to service for these problems living up with them so far. Wind noise and engine noise problems are still with me after tryign to fix them two times in a row.
Now to some of your problems,to all,NO viberation or pulsation is NORMAL,some engines will have a slight ruffness at idle in park because of the fuel and ignition timing changing so many times as needed to maintain correct emission levels,but when trans is put into gear the ruffness should go away.Some have stated their vehicles had a delay of engagement when shifting into drive or reverse,Hyundai states that a delay of some time is normal,but any delay over 5 sec is not normal,when your vehicle delays longer is a sign of something not working properly,this delay can be caused by hydraulics in the trans,to much space in the clutch packs in the trans,the electronics of the trans or the engine preformance.
all xgs do not have a cable from the gas pedal to the throttle body,they have a cable that runs from a throttle control,electrical sensor,to the throttle body.This is simply called drive by wire,you push on the pedal moving a sensor that inturn moves a cable for the engine to speed up,if this system is not adjusted or working correctly you will have a sag or hesitation as well as some time a delay in engagement of the trans.Have the dealer double check the operation of this system,I have found a lot of them out of correct adjustment,also have the dealer check on any campaigns that are needed on your vehicle.Some xgs were put into production with a pcm that was not correct for the vehicle,this is listed as campaign 048,this was on 300s only as well as campaign 052 for the rerouting of the side air bag wiring.T he problem with all Hyundai wiring is the mating of their terminals,they dont fit correctly,none of the male terminals fit the female terminals causing loose connections,open circuits and a world of problems for the people that drive these vehicles,on the air bag problem before the campaign Hyundai stated to tweak or twist the male terminals 10 degrees to make contact with the female terminals,but as many of you know by now the movement of the seats caused this light to come back on,this campaign is to reroute the wiring and secure it in a way that the movement of the seats will not let the terminals brake connection,a word of wisdom,if your seats are ever removed for any reason be sure the wiring is reinstalled as per the campaign.
To some of the other problems,Sonotas,loose connections on wiring,window regulators,trans problems,engine misfires-more than normal on other manufactures.Dont get me wrong all manufactures have problems,but seam to be more help to the service techs and the owners.
Sante fe as wel as Sonotas have a problemon the v6 engines of some times when they are started the engine runs ruff,misfires,trans jerks in and out of gear and on shifts,this is cause by the crank sensor,campign 049-replace the crank sensor with a new design,both of these engines of some manufactor dates also have a campaign to replace both upstream o2 sensors and reprogram the pcm,Santa fe-campaign TO5-Sonota-campaign TO7,this will increase the preformance of the engines as well as to eliminate some of the other problems of the misfires and check engine lites that are always coming on to iritate the owners.
Have to get some rest now but will poist more later,I will try to answer any question any of you have to the best that I can.
Thank you
toyolatic
It was repaired under warranty in about 2 hours.
all need this adjustment.Mine has never had any noises or rattles.
Just one question though, can anybody tell me how to break-in a new car properly? ALL I know is to drive the new car with caution, don't go above 60mph until 3000 miles. And someone also told me that it is good for the car if you change the oil when it reaches 750 miles for the first time and then go back to every 3000 mile period. What else can I do? Please respond. Thank you.
I have always heard to change the oil after the first 500 miles to remove any metal filings from the new engine. I don't know if it's true or not, but for a $20 oil change, why take a chance? Hyundai recommends oil changes every 7500 miles. I go every 5000 just because it is easier to keep track.
Good Luck.
My question is this, after getting out of the car at work this morning I noticed 2 spots just below the driver side door that looks like paint is pealing away. Has anyone else had this problem at all? I plan to call the dealership this morning to speak with our salesperson. Hopefully I won't have any problems with getting it taken care of.
Thanks to all of you for your informative posts. Only have a little over 100 miles on the car but it is GREAT!!!