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Comments
-Chris
How was the X5 anyway?
I have a 328i PP, NO SP, as such; my car came with 205mm section width All-Season tires. While I would not say that these are GREAT in snow and ice, they are certainly adequate for getting from point A to point B.
I guess it depends where point A and B are within NJ, as to ascertain what is adequate :-).
my take is that given how little snow we actually get here in NJ (compared to Michigan where I grew up, or Chicago...
Forgot last year's New Year's storm? I got 26" in that single snowfall, and a couple of our surrounding towns got more.
But overall, its not how much snow falls, but rather its lubricity. NJ classically gets transitional winter storms and the rain/sleet/ice mix with the snow that makes conditions far more slippery than a good old fashioned midwest blizzard. The typical snowfall is the consistency and weight of wet concrete, but its as slippery as grape jelly (until it freezes into a rock overnight).
My rationale for that statement is this; while I will agree that Winter tires have better grip on Snow and/or Ice than All-Season tires, it is my understanding that said All-Season tires have better grip on cold-dry and cold-wet roads than said Winter tires.
Who fed you this (ahem) line?
The rule of thumb for grip (all conditions) is "softer=better". Good winter tires have special plasticisers to keep them softer at lower temperatures, which are not found in All-Seasons or Summer tires. This is also why they wear out faster.
I used to run just all-season tires, but then I wanted to start to run better summer tires. Once making that choice, it doesn't make any sense NOT to run snows on the winter rim set. I have noticed an improvement in both summer & winter performance.
And FWIW, in northern NJ, you don't want to mess with Tire Rack - just go to Eurotire on Rt 46E in Fairfield. The owner, Bill Bloomfield, supports some of the local enthusiast clubs, including, I believe, BMW.
-hh
As others have already said, AVOID Stevens Creek and Allison (Mountain View).
Setting Two: Sport Program (Shifter set to Left Gate "M/S". This is the reason for the "S" in the "M/S" shifter position. Holds gears longer before shifting for "sporty" driving)
Setting Three: Steptronic or Manual Mode (Starts when you shift up or down when you are already in the Sports Mode. This is the reason for the "M" in the "M/S" position. This allows you to control the shift point for the gears. It will, however, shift for you if you screw up or are not paying attention - i.e. let it rev too high or keep too high a gear at slow speeds)
I wanted a 325CI with Auto two weeks ago, but they didn't have any. He checked his upcoming inventory and saw this car with the moonroof and sport in the right color (no leather also) and he told me if I wanted it, I just had to put a deposit down. Now, not having done that much research I thought the TMV was pretty much MSRP, so I was just hoping to get them to throw in floormats and maybe a couple hundred bucks off MSRP. However, when he pointed out that this car had the sport package which I didn't necessarily want, maybe he could tell his manager that I didn't want it and get some money off the price of the car. I was excited that he was willing to deal so when I went in the next day to actually discuss the price I offered him 500 over invoice just to see what would happen... His manager came back with a note that the 325CI was a "very rare car" and offered 600 off MSRP. I told him that I would pay 1000 over invoice and buy it today or I would shop around. After 30-40 minutes, the deal was done at 1200 over invoice including the cd changer at 900.
I think it's a pretty good deal on this car, since it's almost exactly the one I want. The MSRP is 33545 plus the changer at 1100. Even if the changer is overpriced, the car is still 800 under MSRP not including the changer.
Oh, the car arrived two days earlier than he told me and I am thrilled. Hope this helps.
Initially, I worried that our car would never be ordered by the client advisor but was sufficiently impressed by the voice mail that greeted me upon arriving at home. The voice mail provided me with a production number - a confirmation that the sales person was honest.
Henrika at Sonnen BMW is probably a good client advisor for ED purchases. She is probably less willing to negotiate than others, but is very attentive to detail which can be important for ED.
Obviously, the goal is to purchase the car at the most competitive price. However, sometimes spending a little extra money is well worth the cost.
Franco at Cutter Motors in Santa Barbara has an excellent reputation. Jon Shafer, the sales manager, has been very successful in enticing Bay Area folks to travel to Southern California. In my opinion, he has earned this loyalty by offering very competitive prices and treating his potential customers well. He respects his customers and clearly values their interest. I suspect that he starts at a "lower" negotiating price and reduces the "back and forth" negotiation process. Evidently, a number of Bay Area owners are repeat customers with Cutter Motors.
Another option is a broker. In my experience, an effective negotiation strategy coupled with a knowledgeable buyer negates any potential savings benefits of the broker. However, brokers can reduce the "hassle" factor.
-Chris
btw, thats an excellent use of lubricity.
When I shopped around for my car, I had quotes for about $1800-2000 over invoice from almost all dealers but the price of this dealer optioned CD changer varied from $500 to $950 (most of it pure profit). I know now that the Alpine 6 CD chnager can be bought for $400 at the parts department, and say another 1 hour of labor to professionally install (@ $80/hr), so about $500 is fair to pay for this option.
In cases where there not much price transparency for dealer installed options, one must be careful when negotiating a price.
safety is an individual choice. i see people who ride motorcycles without helmets. i see people who drive 90 mph down the shoulder of the highway. i see people who drive without seatbelts. and so on... i wouldn't do any of the above, but i respect those people's decisions to act in the manner that they do.
if you do decide to get snows, go as small a diameter wheel as you can get over your brakes, and as skinny a tire as will fit on. good luck
-Chris
Just trying to figure out what I'm missing here.
According to Tirerack the contact patch would still be better for snow. I am not so sure but a like the idea of using a separate set of winter tires anyway... I have always done it with all my cars. I live in Southwestern CT.
I guess the point is that the narrower the tire the better the "bite" into the snow. The other point would be with the smaller wheel and the 55 sted 50 it would be more forgiving to potholes.
CNorthrup
Still considering the ED thing, but probably need to check into what sort of deal I can swing with incoming inventory or CPO. I have an office mate who is also looking so perhaps we might be able to bargain a better deal with 2 purchases.
Will keep all posted.
Happy holidays!
Have a GREAT Holiday Season.
I told him that I lived in an area with very little snow (about 21” per year on average, I looked it up), which is cleared up very quickly, leaving cold clear roads to drive on. I did inform him that I am currently running Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires to give him a reference point regarding the quality of All-Season tire I was referring to. I also told him that I have been told that for driving on cold roads (wet or dry) that dedicated Winter tires have better traction when compared to All-Season tires. His quote, “The guy that told you that is absolutely wrong.” He went further saying, “If anything, All-Season tires like the ones on your car will have BETTER road holding abilities down to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit or so, at which point, dedicated winter tires would be preferable.”
By the way, here in northern Bergen County, it is fairly hilly, so much so that on my street, which is just over one mile long, there are only four houses with a flat driveway (one of them being mine). Another indication; when I ride my bike down our hill, I usually hit 50 mph before the curves at the bottom of said hill require me to drop an anchor to slow down enough. Whether you want to believe it or not, the OEM All-Season tires on my 328i deal with these hilly conditions quite well. While I won’t be ice racing on the local lake surface, like I said before, they are more than adequate.
Best Regards,
Shipo
P.S.
FWIW, the aforementioned customer service rep also told me that not all All-Season tires contain Silica in the rubber compound (my MXV4s do), and that those tires would probably be a different story.
As for tire size, etc.: The contact patch size does not change with tire size, just the shape. The contact patch area depends on weight of the vehicle and pressure in the tires with some variance due to sidewall stiffness, etc. Weight/PSI=square inches of contact.
A narrower tire will have a longer, narrower profile that will go down through the snow better to make contact with the cement. A wider tire will ride on top of the snow more like a ski.
In this case, wider is definitely not better!
-Murray
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
My guess is that with the 50/50 balance of the 328i, along with its suspension geometry and slightly wider tires (compared to your Saab), the “squeal and screech” that you hear has been all but eliminated by BMW for any driving short of autocross or other extreme cornering environments.
Given all of this, I am seriously considering getting the SP on my next car, and when the OEM rubber wears out, replace it with identical sized High Performance All-Season rubber, such as the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Whatever my next car may be (325Ci, A4 1.8T, C230K, Z, G35, or IS300) I'm definitely going for the upgraded Sport Suspension & Rubber as well.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I took my 2nd test drive of a 325 tonight. They didn't have any sedans with a manual so I had to drive a coupe. The salesman told me that 98% of the 3-series they sell were auto trannies! Do you believe that? Anyway, this was a 5 speed with SP and the new-old steering. It is quite acceptable IMO. No Miata -- but better than any other sedan I've driven.
Best Regards,
Shipo
So many posts on winter tires. Here in so Cal is too warm to know a thing about it. :-> Thinking about it, one more month until my Munich pickup. Hopefully it will not snow. Even few miles from ED center to the drop off center would be too far for someone who's never driven in snow!
Happy Holidays to all!
-nobee
Best Regards,
Shipo
bing330i - exactly the kind of opinion I was looking for. I'm not real good with colors. I test drove a silver with grey leather, exactly what I had planned on buying, and for some reason I found myself looking more at the Oxford green and the Topaz blue. There's something about the combination of green with the orange tail lights that is really pleasing...
My sense is if you lease or intend to change your car quite often, it does not hurt to try some fantasy color - you can get rid of it if you dislike it any more. Being an avant garde does not mean you just have to be different (Nowadays it is rarely possible to distinguish yourself by your car unless you drive a Ferrari). When you see black being the most popular color among artists and fashion designers who have shown their creative nature, you would know why.
For me, in the same fashion that I want a classic car like 3ers, I'd want a classic color going with it.
Just my 2 cents.
In my area, I would rate the popularity of the colors as follows:
Tie 1/2 Black and white
3) silver
4) steel grey
all the others are uncommon to rare. I've never knowingly seen a sapphire black. Steel greys are actually more common than silvers if you only take into account the last 2 years.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have been leaning towards the A4 since I didn't realize that BMW has an all wheel drive. I'm assuming that Audi has a leg up on AWD since their Quattro has been around for awhile, but I wanted to get feedback from anyone that has a BMW with AWD. Is it going to add significant dollars to repair bills later in life? Does the AWD detract from handling performance? The fact that the 325 BMW has a lower price then the A4 3.0 (I can probably live with the smaller engine)suprised me, so I am seriously considering the 325, but since I definitely wanted AWD, I wanted to hear what users have to say about it. Thanks for any info that you have.
Does anyone have any experience w/EBC Green brake pads on 3- Series? I'm pretty tired of cleaning my weels at least once a week- those BMW pads are terrible in this regard.
My car is '01 BMW 330i, Topaz Blue,Black lthr, SP.
Appreciate your responses in advance. Happy holidays.
I found these auxiliary input adapters at Crutchfield.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VLEk99IhT7n/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?c=2&g=50900&s=0
It looks like you can use your head units CD changer input to connect an 8mm or RCA jack. Has anyone used one of these? I don't see BMW or Alpine listed as supported OEM's. Any one know what type of connector the CD changer input uses?
This is going to rock! 75+ CD's worth of music on command!
-Murray
Do you know what are the criteria monitored by the on board diagnostic computer that are used to calculate the service interval? Some people have speculated that it is dependent upon several parameters: the number of times that the ignition is activated, fuel consumption, and engine speed. Others have speculated that the number of "hot/cold" cycles is also a major determinant. Do you or anyone else have any information concerning this?
Thanks,
Parump