Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Goodyear Eagle Ultra Grip GW-2
$132
An excellent all-around choice. Best dry and wet braking among H-rated tires. Best ice braking without ABS.
Dunlop SP Winter Sport M2
126
An excellent all-around choice, with responsive handling.
Pirelli Winter 210 SnowSport
155
An excellent all-around choice, but pricey. Best dry cornering.
Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22
130
An excellent all-around choice. Best emergency handling.
Nokian Hakkapeliitta NRW
157
A fine choice for snow, though not ideal for wet weather. Least capable in wet cornering.
Michelin Pilot Alpin
116
Best suited to areas where snow is less severe. Quiet ride.
Q-RATED WINTER TIRES Designed for speeds of up to 99 mph; test group includes tires rated S (112 mph) and T (118 mph).
Kumho I'zen Stud KW-11
50
An excellent choice where snow is less severe. Best dry and wet braking among this group. Studdable. T-rated in size tested.
Michelin Arctic Alpin
85
An excellent choice where snow is less severe. Excellent cornering.
Dunlop Graspic
DS-1
55
A top winter performer, although only fair emergency handling.
Gislaved NordFrost II
75
A very good choice where snow is less severe. Studdable.
Nokian Hakkapeliitta Q
85
A very good all-around tire.
BFGoodrich Winter Slalom
60
A very good all-around tire, though slightly less capable than the Nokian in winter driving. Studdable.
Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice
77
A fine choice for snow and wet weather, but only fair handling.
Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50
72
A very good all-around tire, though less capable in emergency handling than top-rated models. Stiff ride.
Yokohama Guardex F720
75
Most susceptible to hydroplaning.
Firestone Winterfire
53
Unimpressive ice braking compromises an otherwise fine, economical choice. Studdable.
S-rated in size tested.
Cooper Weather-Master XGR
52
Long dry stops and only fair emergency handling.
Off topic, today is National Coming Out Day. Coincidentally, it is also National Depression Awareness Day.
I don't know if I like the new design on the message board. I have to click one whole extra time to get here. Will life's inconveniences never cease? (just kidding guys).
Jean
After you're in this forum, just right-click, then select "add to favorites". Then just select that saved favorite, and it will take you right here with one click.
-- Joe
on-topic thinny: Proctologists love BMW's too
DL
- Mark
my friend who lives in South Carolina will be selling his BMW early december because he is leaving the country. He wants to drive the car until he leaves because he doesn't want to rent a car or anything...and I am thinking of buying it from him... I actually drove the car when I went over there this summer, and it is in good condition.... It is 1999 BMW 328i (new body style) It has a premium package, sports package, steptronic transmission, xenon headlamps and now it's got 41K miles... but he told me to expect about 50K miles in early December...
Because this year is almost over and he has to drive the car until the day he leave, I am not sure what I should pay... I did look up the Kelly Blue Book pricing for retail and it was little less than $22K for now.... Considering the fact that he is going to put at least 8000 extra miles on the car and I will be actually buying the car in december, what would be a good price for this BMW? I just don't want to waste my hard earned cash... Can somebody please help me?
Thank you...
My experience in these sorts of situations is that you run a significant risk of hard feelings over any price negotiations. And if the car is not in the condition you expect or has any issues, it will be difficult not to blame your friend, rightly or wrongly. Finally, the car your buying is neither unusual nor rare - I expect at any given time in the S. Calif area, there are ten or twenty of this make/model around to choose from. Why go to all the trouble of shipping (or driving) across the country for one?
If you do decide to go ahead and make an offer, I'd explain to your friend the logistic difficulties and expenses, confirm exactly what your friend will do before selling the car to you (detailing, maintenance up to date, tires, etc.), and then make an offer about halfway between book wholesale and retail minus any expenses you will incur in the transfer. This may be lower than your friend is expecting, but this really is where you need to be and your friend should understand that he's avoiding the hassles and expenses of marketing the car. Then, be willing from this point forward not to blame your friend if things don't work out as you expect.
Off hand, $22K sounds ballpark, maybe a little high, but do you own pricing research. There is a forum here in Edumnds in "Smart Shopper" called Real-World Trade-In Values (or something like this) there two guys in the business do an excellent job assessing cars in the market day-to-day. I'd give them a run at this too. Also, pay $10 to get a price out of Consumer Reports and www.nada.com also has online pricing.
Good luck,
- Mark
- Mark
I would like some advice to see if I am too picky or not about my recent service experience. Last week I brought my car ('01 325i) to have my driver's side window looked at. It all of a sudden starting acting funny. It would go up and down very slowly, sometimes get stuck halfway down, all this while making painful noises . I brought it in and they told me that it was the window regulators. They said that they have had problems with the design (and they have been redesigned for the newer models, if any one is worrying). Well, they replaced them (on both the driver's and the front passenger's) windows. The job involved removing the door panels, etc. I picked up the car, all is well and by the time I got home (and after about three times of putting the window up and down) I am getting this loud screeching noise when I put the the driver's side window up and down. Great! What bugs me is that I am wondering how much testing they did after fixing the window. It happened so soon after I got the car back that it makes me wonder. Also, it is a very aggravating sound and it ticks me off. Anyway, I called and left a message about it to the service rep., but have not received a call back. Now, is that good service? HAs anyone else had that window trouble?
Thanks.
More importantly, has anybody heard from Shipo?
Yesterday I saw a few M3s riding around. I just love the meanacing look of that car. Of course I started thinking about it and building my M3 on the Internet. Then I got mad because the only way I could afford one was to rob a bank and banks were closed yesterday and today (yet I have to work...lousy bankers hours and holidays).
Now we all know that a 325Ci would be plenty car for ME to handle. A 330Ci would have more than enough power than I'll ever need, and an M3 would just be overkill (but it is so cool).
Now admittedly never driving either a 330Ci or an E46 M3, is the M3 worth the price of admission? I'm talking everyday driving here, not at the track. I priced out both cars on the BMWUSA website optioned how I'd like them. Here's what I dug up:
M3 Coupe:
Jet Black/Black Leather
Bi-Xenon
Moonroof
Heated Seats
HK
MSRP: $51,220
330Ci:
Electric Red/Black Leather
Sport Package
Premium Package
Heated Seats
Bi-Xenon
MSRP: $40,995
Now I know comparing 2 cars (any cars) on paper (screen) is a ludacris notion. The M3 costs $10,225 more, has an extra 108 hp, and gets to 60mph a whopping 1.6 seconds quicker (BMW's Numbers). ED makes the 330Ci an even more attractive option.
Now IF (I know..."NUTS" said the Queen, IF she had 'em she'd be King) I had the money, the looks of the M3 alone would sell me on the car over the 330Ci. I don't think there's another car avalable for the $50,000 price tag that I'd even consider.
Which would you take?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
staying on topic, i think i saw the 1st two ever electric Red cars this weekend, one a 325i which i do not like the red at all, and the Monocromatic Coupe that looked much better. funny how after Sienna Red was canceled now everyone likes it ,,
DL
The lease on my Saab is up December 6. It is funny that you mention that. I've got some juggling to do with it. I don't think I told you all, but last Sunday (2 months and 1000 miles to go) I rear ended a 2002 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6 on the Staten Island Expressway. It was totally my fault, doing my second check in the rear view mirror in stop and go traffic trying to switch lanes. Nobody was injured. I was going less than 5mph and My Saab scratched the bumper of the Hyundai. My Saab sustained a bit more damage. The front bumper is pushed up and the hood buckled a tiny bit so I can't open the hood. My car is leaking coolant, but drivable. So I've got to meet with my insurance adjuster, get the car fixed, then make an appointment for Saab to come look at the car to assess it for lease turn in to see if they're going to charge me any excess wear and tear fees.
My Saab has been perfect as far as reliability goes. I have absolutely NO REGRETS that I didn't wait for the new Saab 9-3 Sport Sedan to come out, but an enthralled with the fact that I found one of the last Honda Prelude Type SHs ever produced. The Prelude is a car I've longed after and lusted for ever since the 5th generation body style came out in 1997. I bought the car back in April and it currently has 700 miles on it. I can't wait to start driving it every day:) The new 9-3 looks like it will be a good car, I just don't need a 4 door at this point of my life.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Had a little fun with an M3 a week ago. I jumped on the Dulles Toll Road in Virginia, and as soon as I got on, a grey E46 M3 passed by in the far left lane. Same colors as my own 325Ci. I figured, let's have a little fun. So I picked up the pace on the right side, and he followed suit. Of course, he could've blown me into the weeds with no effort whatsoever, but I seemed to be making all the right lane choices, weaving through the fairly light traffic. He stayed in the left lane for the most part, but as there are regular morons coasting there without thinking, he got held up a bit. I maxed out at 95--didn't want to go insane. As we were approaching the main toll booth, I let him have a view of my rear plate (02B-ANM3). Then I pulled back alongside and we gave each other the thumbs up. Very cool indeed. Mutual respect amongst Bimmerites is nice thing to have.
-Colin
A slight overfill is nothing to worry about. If you check specs, you'll see that many engines take something like 3.7 or 4.8 or 5.6 qts during a change and dealers routinely just put in the next whole qt. In fact, on the E36 M3's, BMW was recommending a full 1-qt overfill to manage a nasty oil unporting issue when the car was driven on the track. I wouldn't do this as a habit, but if you're close to the full line, don't worry about it.
Any good quality oil that meets the general grade and viscosity requirements in the owner's manual is fine, and you can mix brands and types to your heart's content.
- Mark
-Colin
Anyone want to buy a loaded e36 325 with 96k miles?
Man, that was refreshing!! I hope everything goes well with the insurance adjuster.
Oil, funny in 40 months ive never added a drop, and yes i do check it ,must have been built on a thursday ...
DL
Jon S does all the bimmerfest.com work so I can't really accept any credit there! Can't decide if I'll 'step up' and order an M3 for Feb/Mar '03 delivery. New G35 coupe with standard Brembos and 280hp engine + 6 speed is awfully tempting. If Mitsubishi imports The Evolution 7 just the way it is (or almost) that would be on the cards, and then there's the facelifted Subaru WRX which could bow in in STi guise.... Decisions decisions decisions....!!!
I finally got the sticky pedal done. They had ordered the part number for the step. But it is now installed with the proper part numbers. Man, it is like night and day! It feels SO much better, like it should have from the beginning.
I was out in DC last week and saw two grey BMW's flying down the tollway out by Dulles and Falls Church. Wonder if it was those who posted earlier.... hhmmmm.. but it sure made me miss my baby.
I got back into LAX and I think I drove about 85-90 the whole way home, darting through traffic. I can now see why I would get mad at all the sports car owners who thought they owned the road. They didn't own it, but their car sure could handle driving them well.
-Paul
1--Should I buy an extended warranty? I've always declined on the Japanese cars I've owned before. That would have been a waste of money on those hyper reliable cars (except for my '99 Odyssey and its bad tranny). What about the BMW? Would I be well advised to get a 7 year/100K extended warranty? If so, should I get one from BMW or are there good (and cheaper) aftermarket alternatives? If BMW, can anyone suggest a dealer who discounts them substantially?
2--My 330i has a single CD unit. That's OK, but I really need a cassette player as well. What's the best way to go here?
Thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions.
I'm sure if my above statement is false, someone will set the record straight.
What about that clown nose everyone has been talking about?
Thanks for any inputs.
Daytime Running lights
Pathway Lighting
Automatic Locking after Car is in motion
Selective Central Unlocking
Alarm Confrimation Signal*
*on cars equipped with alarms
Are you looking for explanations of the features listed above or a listing of additional features? Your salesman should provide you with a list of all programmable features and explain any you don't understand. I'm actually a little surprised he/she hasn't done so already if you are taking delivery this week.
Thanks.
my understanding is that the softer glass is less prone to shattering...
of course, the above "could be" an urban myth...
-Chris
Speaking of cars..
350Z with the track package is out because you cannot get the Bose stereo with the track package. The inside was on the cheap side and I did not like the instrument cluster attached to the steering wheel.
G35 coupe - This would probably be my 3rd choice behind an M3 or a 330. The instrument cluster is attached to the steering wheel, but it is more subtle than the 350Z. You can get the Bose stereo with the "Track package". Having a back seat is a nice feature too IMO.
'03 Cobra SVT --FAST. Cheap. But its a Ford. I will have no envy when one pulls up beside me and then shows me his tailights, even in my M3 which cost 20k more.
Lancer EvoVII/VIII - pretty fast, but styling has no presence. It doesn't move me.
WRX - ditto Lancer.
Corvette - probably not too bad, but again, its a Chevy.
M coupe -- I agree with dave330--A driver's car all the way. It will probably be somewhat of a classic too since it has been discontinued. I just can't live without a back seat though.