BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

ryoken

"BTW based on extensively driving both cars, the G35 traction control and VDC/DSC seems more intrusive than on the 330i. Depending on how rigorous your test drive is, I'd suggest you disable traction control (but not VDC) by briefly pressing the button left of the steering wheel under the dash."

They aren't separate systems on the G35. It's one big system lumped under the VDC name. There's only one button to turn the whole thing (mostly) off. Turning it off does make a difference on straight-line acceleration on dry pavement, if that's any indication of how intrusive it can be.

kdshapiro

But you could also say to test drive any car with the VDC/TC off to get a true sense of what the car is all about. However, when I drive never turn it off, rather be safe than sorry.

ryoken

Yup. I leave it on most of the time. In fact, it's rather fun to make full-throttle sharp-turn launches from a stop in the rain with the system on. That gives you an idea of just how protective the system can be. But to play, you have to shut it off. The car comes alive with it turned off. It's almost like driving two different cars. The VDC will almost never let you get on the throttle coming out of a hard corner, but the car is perfectly capable of doing just that.

scipio1

Perhaps I've just had an exceptional experience, but I've had very few problems with either my Honda/Acuras and my BMWs.

On my E36 97 M3: the horn would go out and come back at seemingly random intervals. Sometimes I'd get mad at somebody and jam on it and it screams.... other times - nothing but silence. Irritating but basically the only problem.

On my E46 2001 330i: one of the Xenons must have auto-levelled wrong. The right headlamp seems to be aimed slightly lower than the left. Weird.
The steering wheel gives a little mechanical whine at low speed - should I really be able to hear the power assist working? Also strange. Finally, in wet weather, the car squeals when backing up slowly.

E46 2002 M3: nothing yet, except the S54 engine oil pump recall, but that was a precautionary recall by BMW, nothing actually happened.

Based on my experience and understanding, Lexus and Honda cars probably have ON AVERAGE fewer problems over the life of the vehicle. My Acuras were fairly bulletproof, although not completely free from small issues.

My BMWs haven't been noticeably worse, and I will say that the quality of the service has been spectacularly more confidence inspiring. WHat do I mean by that? In my Acuras, maintenance was MY problem, and I had to keep track of and take care of oil changes, tuneups, timing belts etc. WIth my BMWs, maintenance is free and the car tells me whenever I need to do something major (beyond checking fluids, etc.). When the time rolls around for routine maintenance, the computer says so, and I roll into the dealership. They do the work, and I roll out again, no charge and no hassle. For other people, that's not a big deal. For me, it's huge.

blueguydotcom

Just drove a manual G35 in its real environment. The 330i has a lot to prove now.

you can read about it here: blueguydotcom "Infiniti G35" May 14, 2003 10:13pm

BTW, I didn't turn off the VDC. Although I've messed around with RWD my entire life (my parents have always owned nothing but RWD vehicles), I currently own a FWD car and I know with that kinda power and RWD in a foreign car I might have ended up wrapping the vehicle around a cow or lamppost.

joes230

Glad you liked the manual G35. You may have a difficult time finding a demo manual tranny 330i, but try anyway. While the non-sport 330i has the "sport" suspension, the sport version has significantly more agressive tires. A few 330i SPs have even lower profile 18-in tires, so the range of tires on a 330i varies from 205/50-17 to 255/35-18 (rear). By contrast all G35 sedans (sport and non-sport) have 215/55-17 tires. On the 330i, the range is size, width and profile is pretty wide, and makes a big difference in road noise, handling, etc. So make note of what tires the 330i you test drive has.

In general I think the 330i sport package with the 17-in tires is a good all-round choice for the enthusiast.

As much as I like the G35, there are several little things I didn't like, mostly about the interior:

- no telescoping steering column
- no fore/aft adjustable headrests
- no lighted steering wheel buttons
- no self-leveling xenons
- no adjustable thigh support
- seat heaters slower and less coverage
- nighttime instrument illumination either too bright or too dim (insufficient adjustment)

But despite any G35 flaws I highly recommend anybody in the market drive it. It handles and goes very well. I think it's the best 330i sports sedan competitor.

kchanus

My 2001 330i xenons are the same as yours, the passenger side is slightly lower compare to the driver side. At first I thought there is a problem too. But when you see the projection straight ahead on a wall, you should see the right edge of the driver's side beam slopes down and the passenger side continues with the same slope. So, I think the passenger side is slightly lower is the correct aiming at least that's why i think.

dan_bmw

"Just drove a manual G35 in its real environment. The 330i has a lot to prove now".

I don't think my 330i has anything to prove and before I bought it I drove the G35 and liked it. Obviously I liked the 330i better and still do. I completely understand your wants and needs and it sounds like the G35 is the car for you. Strike up the best deal and best wishes. Lets move on.

scipio1

Yeah, I considered that a possibility too, but when I compared the lights thrown on the wall by my 02 M3, they seem to be exactly level.

Claridge's BMW said a headlamp realignment would be about $60 (just a phone quote, they didn't look at it to see if it was right or not), but personally, I don't care. From the driver's view, you can't tell the difference except when you look at the light on a wall, so unless you're just so exacting that you want it fixed anyway, I figure why spend the $60? This car may go back on it's lease-end soon anyway.

leenelsonmd

Terrific car list!

Something fun about the E46 M3: You can idle in 5th gear.

I use 5th and 6th gear all the time even on city streets. It is not unsual for me to drive 45mph in 6th gear in a 35mph zone or you can just idle in 5th gear and go about 33mph.

BTW: Is there any thing wrong with shifting 1rst to 3rd to 5th and just skipping the even gears when you are trying to drive it easy around town?

scipio1

Hey, I have a 330i going back at lease-end. I figured I'd just give it back, but some one mentioned to me that the dealership might be willing to make a residual adjustment to encourage me to keep it. Has anyone here seen anything like that first-hand? Thanks in advance,

P.S. On the shifting, I don't know for sure, but I positive it's healthier for the engine to be higher in the powerband. From what I understand, idling is actually much harder on an engine than medium-tach revs I believe. Anyone care to correct me on that if I'm mistaken, perhaps Host_MrShiftright?

ryoken

joes230: I agree with some of your G35 difficiencies. I actually own one. Here's a couple more:

- Auto tranny not as good as the Steptronic - shifts in manual mode are slower, and there's not a Sport mode.
- seat adjustments are cool, but sometimes dig into my thigh
- memory seats (but not memory mirrors)
- lumbar support is not power, it's a mechanical lever, and the passenger seat doesn't have one at all
- wipers are only speed-sensitive, not rain-sensing
- in addition to headlights not being auto-leveling, the high-beams are halogens
- key fob is separate from the key, and kinda big and awkward

As for these comments of yours:
- no telescoping steering column
+ Yes, but the gauges tilt up and down.
- no fore/aft adjustable headrests
+ don't find that to be a problem.. hardly rest my head on it anyway. And they're active and move forward in a collision.
- no lighted steering wheel buttons
+ they're intuitive enough with tactile differences not to need lights in the dark.

Then, of course, it has a few advantages over a 3:
+ rear seats recline (with premium) and are a little bigger
+ In-dash 6-disc changer
+ cd-changer and Nav system can co-exist in the dash (3-series downgrades you to cassette with Nav)
+ seatbelts are the same color as the rest of the interior (the black seatbelts with the gray/beige interior just look cheap to me)
+ armrest doesn't block the second cupholder (I do have to let my wife ride along now and then)

It seems like there are little things with both cars. Performance wise, they're both great. Now, if that performance package had come out before I bought mine, I might have chosen differently....

bluebeast

Being a car guy and wanting to test drive everything I liked visually I test drove a TL-S, G35 & 330i. I really liked the TL-S, but I really wanted a manual and with all the tranny problems with that car I scratched it off the list. However, if it would come with a 6 spd I would have bought it. Great value for the money. The G35 6spd sedan was fun to drive, great shifting, handling was good, not great, but good. Only thing I really didn't like was the styling, it grew on me some, but I just wanted something most distinctive. Again, great value for the money. The 330i just knocked my socks off (test drove a 5 spd), engine is just sooooo smooooth and great power across the powerband. The only thing I did not like from the beginning is the lack of trunk space and the extra $8K. I have to squeeze my clubs in. I am even more happy about my decision to get the car after it arrived, the performance package 6 spd is great. I can't wait for the engine to break in so I can really get on it. This is my 3rd Bimmer, just sold my LS400 of 4 yrs to get the bimmer. Don't know what it is about it but Bimmers are definately driver cars. Of course if I get tired of it I'll just trade with the wife and get my GS300 fix. Funny how BMW inline 6's are so smooth AND powerful. At one time I had a 96 Cobra and a 95 M3 that my wife and I had and time after time at the track we would be within .1 second apart in the quarter mile. That's right, V8 305hp cobra against a 95 3.0 inline 6 @ 240hp !!!!

brave1heart

"The G35 6spd sedan was fun to drive, great shifting, handling was good, not great, but good. Only thing I really didn't like was the styling, it grew on me some, but I just wanted something most distinctive. "

I think the G35's styling is pretty distinctive, esp. the coupe's. That said, I asked my wife a couple of weeks ago what she thought of the car that we were about to pass and she said it looked like a plastic box. She had no idea that it was a G35 coupe.

Good point about the 3-series being smooth - they feel slower than they are in reality because of that.

blueguydotcom

- Auto tranny not as good as the Steptronic - shifts in manual mode are slower, and there's not a Sport mode.
- seat adjustments are cool, but sometimes dig into my thigh
- memory seats (but not memory mirrors)
- lumbar support is not power, it's a mechanical lever, and the passenger seat doesn't have one at all
- wipers are only speed-sensitive, not rain-sensing
- in addition to headlights not being auto-leveling, the high-beams are halogens
- key fob is separate from the key, and kinda big and awkward

Of those the big issue for me is the lack of bi-xenon. Don't use lumbar, I deal with the huge audi/vw key daily, i'm small so the seat fits perfectly with room for half of another me and I'm all over MT as i found the steptronic and nissan's 5sp AT both severely retard their respective car's performance.

As for these comments of yours:
- no telescoping steering column
+ Yes, but the gauges tilt up and down.
- no fore/aft adjustable headrests
+ don't find that to be a problem.. hardly rest my head on it anyway. And they're active and move forward in a collision.
- no lighted steering wheel buttons
+ they're intuitive enough with tactile differences not to need lights in the dark.


Lack of telescope bugs me on the G. What the gauges say isn't really that important as I never really look at my car's gauges. The rest aren't issues for me in the least.

Still waiting for the 330i for next weekend. Looking forward to trying on the bimmer. Good grief what a sexy car, IMHO.

jb_shin

This is anecdotal at best as I heard from another BMW enthusiast, but idling is indeed not very good for the engine. It is also worse to lug the engine than reving it to the redline.

rennig1

I've had my 2001 325ci for 21K mi. The original bridgestone turanzas are seeing their final days, and i'm thinking about getting new wheels right away. Currently i have 17x8.0 (sport package) and i'd like to throw chrome 19's on it (19" M double spoke look sweet). Anyone have helpful tips/suggestions about this upgrade??? thanks.

billherrmann

An earlier post asked if there was any evidence that BMW/Dealer would adjust the lease end price downward in an effort to get you to keep the car. I,too, have that same question. Appreciate any input.

kyfdx

1) dealer has no input on this.. Only BMW financial or the bank its leased through. They may have an incentive to get you to keep the car, if they think they can't sell it for residual.

2) The dealer would have no incentive to have you keep the car. They only make more money, if they can sell you another one.

kyfdx

joes230

I'd be cautious about putting 19 in. wheels on your 325i SP. These would likely be much lower profile, and possibly somewhat wider.

In general very low profile, wide tires will cause increased noise and harshness, and increase undesirable steering effects like tramlining and bump steer.

In most cases a 19 in. wheel/tire assembly will be significantly heavier than your current 17 in. This could have a negative performance impact. It's not intuitively obvious, but just a few add'l ounces per wheel can hurt performance and handling.

I'd recommend you keep you current wheels and invest in a good set of high performance tires. Just new tires will make a big improvement.

There are many and better options than the 225/45-17 Bridgestone Turanza ER30 stock tires. Your current tires are classified as "Summer Grand Touring" (not all-season, not high performance).

If you want higher performance, or quieter ride, or all-season capability, or some mix of these, you can get that simply with same-size new tires, no new wheels or larger tires needed. What tires you choose make a big difference in how the car drives. People often report it literally transforms their car.

If you want the looks of a new wheel, I wouldn't go over 18 in. at the maximum.

See www.tirerack.com for info, including user reviews and tire tests.

mr323

I could use suggestions for how to remove a black (grease? graphite? road crud?) streak from the felt-like material that covers the pillar on the hinge side of the driver's door (is this the A pillar?) on my '02 325. Anyway, right there at eye level is a two-inch black line. All I can think is that something got onto the frame of the sunscreen we put in the windshield when parked (we live in Tempe, AZ) and was transferred onto the pillar. It's such a visible plae I'd like to clean it off--water did nothing--and it's not a great spot for trial-and-error.

Thanks for help, and happy motoring!

Ed

Crevels

Kominsky,

You said that you were also located in SE PA. My CPO 330 is approaching 1 year in service and I would like to make arrangements for an oil change (only 9,400 miles). Can you recommend any of the local BMW dealers, or more importantly, are there any that I should steer clear of?

Thanks,

Crevels

kominsky

Daniel's BMW in Allentown is the only place I've taken my car. So far, their service has been fantastic. If you're in the Allentown area, I highly recommend them. If you're closer to Philly, I'm pretty sure there are several other posters here at edmunds from that area who may be able to help. Good luck!

ddblue

The beam dispersal for each side is different. If you can find a diagram for it (somewhere on the web), you'll find that the driver's side beam is a shorter pathway (probably explains why it appears lower on a wall). My assumption is that this is done for oncoming traffic.

ddblue

I would agree with Joes230 here. 19" is more on the aesthetic side of changes, as opposed to performance. The real issue is the kind of rubber that's making contact with the road. The 17" SP wheels are great. If you want to upsize, I would not go bigger than 18s. Your sidewall will be much shorter, and it's much easier to blow a tire that way. I've seen 19s on M3s, and that is the most wheel that should be put on an M3. On a 325, it would be almost comical. Plus, you're going to have to move to an aspect ratio of 35 at least, which is really short.

Bridgestone Turanzas are NOT the way to go for performance rubber. Take a look at Bridgestone Potenza S-02s or Kumho Ecsta MXs. Fantastic performance grip in the dry and wet and significantly less expensive than Michelin Pilot Sports.

leenelsonmd

A friend of mine has 19" rims on his 325 and they look ok, but there is not enough clearance for the rubber. His tire hits the wheel well during certain maneuvers and with large bumps. All four of his tires have edge marks from where they are hitting the side wall.

You can get away with 19" on an M3 (although it is tight), but the most I would put on a 325 is the 18".

ryoken

"It is also worse to lug the engine than reving it to the redline."

Do you know of a website or have some data that explains this in detail? I believe it, I just have a friend that constanly shifts early because he's afraid of hi revs, and lugs the engine on the 1-2 shift nearly every time -- I'm afraid that poor Saturn is going to drop it's tranny one day.

nyccarguy

"I've seen 19s on M3s, and that is the most wheel that should be put on an M3. On a 325, it would be almost comical"

I parked my Prelude next to an H2 yesterday that had 24" (sorry, 4s) spinning wheels and Z rated tires. Talk about comical looking.

chile96

Where can I find the date of production for my '03 325i?

thanks
fo

scipio1

Make sure the 19s will fit first. I remember reading on the BMW website back before the launch of the M3s that they actually had to alter the body to fit the 18 255s in the rear wheelwell.

Now that the 18s are available on the 330s, I have to wonder about that little factoid, but it bears checking out before making the investment on a new set of rims. I agree that the 19s are about as big as the 3 series should wear.

On the xenons, the driver's side light is actually higher than the passenger's. Like I said, the only reason I believe it's not right is that on my M3, the lights are level against the same wall.

jmess

There is a new tire from Goodyear that has gotten some good reviews around the world. The F1 GS-D3 appears to be as good as the S-03 Pole Position tire from Bridgestone and it is a little cheaper. I am installing a set of 225-45-17s F1s tomorrow on some Volk GT-C wheels.

kominsky

There's a sticker inside the door frame with a date on it. In my car it says 01/01. My car was supposed to have a production date of 01/12/01 so I would've guessed the numbers meant month and year. To confuse things a little, I just looked at a recent service work order and they have my production date as 01/01/01. If that's correct, then the numbers might be month and date instead. I guess bottom line would be to check on a service receipt if you have one laying around. I would also imagine it's on some of the paperwork from when you picked up the car but my wife has my stuff filed (hidden?)(lost?) so I can't verify right now.

jb_shin

Unfortunately, I cannot remember where I saw that. I believe it had to do with break-in procedure. You can try sending in a query to the tech editor at the Bimmer or Roundel. I am sure they can explain quicker than I can find out where I saw it.

chile96

I can't find any stickers inside the door jams, only found one underneath the hood but no production date listed. Have all the sales info but no date there either. Ahh, the search continues! I'm sure it will rear it's ugly head somewhere.

thanks
fo

bmwdriver02

chile96:
Just like kominsky said, the sticker should be on the side. It should be a black sticker with white lettering.

blkonblk330i

It's almost that time for me to replace the original Contis after 27K mi and I've been leaning towards the S-03, but after reading the reviews about the F1 GS-D3 it has become a toss-up between the two.

I'd like to hear your opinion after putting on some miles on those F1. Anyone else here has the F1? Thanks for any input.

guga24

I am evaluating a 325 2000 purchase with a 100k warranty (car currently has 20k). Price is good, but I am having trouble quantifying how much regular maintenance is for the cars as I have driven mostly japanese in the past. Also, can much of the maintenance costs be mitigated by going to an independent mechanic for regular service vs dealerships and the like?

riez

guga24... You wrote: "I am evaluating a 325 2000 purchase with a 100k warranty (car currently has 20k)."

Is the "100k warranty" BMW's CPO program? I believe CPO is only way to go for newish and low mile used BMWs. CPO adds a modified 2yr/50K to the original warranty. And it is good at all BMW dealers, no questions asked.

Do you mean a MY 2000 323i? These 3s normally have an oil service at around 15K, Schedule 1 at 30K, a 2nd oil service at 45K, Schedule 2 at 60K and then the cycle repeats. Plus you need to change the brake fluid every two years, the coolant every 3 years, and there are a few items changed at 100K. Schedule 1 is more expensive than an oil service. Schedule 2 more expensive than Schedule 1.

You can price these actions out at your local BMW dealer as well as an independent mechanic/service shop. There is an association of independent BMW mechanics and shops. They advertise in Roundel (BMW CCA). Many people swear by great independent mechanics.

What was the in-service date of the car? That is critical for the time computations.

Keep in mind that a MY 2000 323i came with a 4 yr/50K bumper-to-bumper original warranty. And it had a 3yr/36K mile free maintenance period. The free maintenance period could be extended if you buy the extension. Thinking the extension takes it to 4yr/50K. Ask your local dealer or BMW if you can buy the extension and at what cost. (Thinking I've seen people say it runs anywhere from $400-600.)

My wife bought a MY 2000 323i CPO in 12/01. It had 18,000 miles on it. So far she hasn't spent a penny on maintenance. She has gotten a free battery, brake pads/rotors, wipers, etc. under the free maintenance period. Her only expenses have been insurance, gasoline, depreciation, and a set of new tires (at about 38,000 miles). Her car has 44,000 miles on it. She is due for an oil change around 48,000.

You might consider joining BMW CCA. Many BMW dealers, independent garages, parts supplies, etc. provide 10, 15, or 20 percent discounts to BMW CCA members.

newcar31

What are your opinions on the leatherette? I'm thinking about leasing a 325i. I'm interested in hearing from people who are leasing a 3 series. Good idea?

jmess

I put a set of 225-45-17 F1 GS-D3s on my car this weekend. I am impressed with the tires so far. The car turns in well and seems hooked up in the middle of the corners. Break away seems pretty predictable. I would say the overall grip and feedback from the tires instills confidence at elevated cornering speeds.

Tire/road noise is acceptable. The only down side I have seen is in the 20-50 MPH range you feel the expansion strips on the roads a little more than before but that is probably more due the wider wheels that I installed with the tires.

I don't think you can really go wrong on getting the F1s. Here is somone else's opinion about the F1s

http://www.zr1.net/F1tire.html

blkonblk330i

jmess, thanks for the link. It also had positive reviews in TireRack.com from the 40+ drivers of different cars. It also had the best survey results amongst the other maximum performance tires which included the Pilots and S-03.

Now, go drive and put on miles on those F1s.

If you don't mind my asking, where did you get the tires and how much did you pay for them? I'm thinking of ordering them thru TireRack or thru a local auto shop. Just trying to get a ballpark figure of cost. I have the SP which has a staggered set-up so it will be a little costlier. Thanks for any info.

mg330ci

That I could refer to when taking the car to the dealership?

2002 330ci

Thanks guys

tempus

I have two options I'm considering:

Option 1: 2003 325i, jet black, sand leatherette, premium, sport, automatic. $32,791 @ 3.9% financing.

Option 2: 2003 330i, black sapphire, gray leather, premium, sport, xenon, heated seats, automatic, 5000 miles, $37,900 @ 5.95% financing.

Which deal do you think is better (if either) and why?

Thanks in advance!

denk

Service bulletin for the sticky/notchy gas pedal is 35 01 02 dated 7/02. It calls for a new gas pedal module and adapter plate. Had mine done about 3 weeks ago.

joes230

To me the 330i step feels vastly faster than the 325i step. For some reason it seems the step absorbs a lot of the 325i's power. Maybe it's because of the 330i's increased low-rpm torque.

Plus I really like Xenons and heated seats. Because of this, despite the higher cost and 5000 miles, the 330i would be preferable.

jmess

I bought the tires from a tire chain here on the West Coast called Americas Tires; which I think is some form of subsid of Discount Tires Direct. I found out several years ago that they do business with the TireRack for things that they don't carry (wheels and tires)

The price was the same as I would have paid to have them shipped to my door from the TireRack. They used the TireRack's online Ad to quote me a price. They probably make more money off the install/balance, and the tire replacement insurance that I bought.

The nice thing is you have somebody local to talk to if you have a problem with your tires.

BTW, GoodYear also has a promotion going on in my area where you get a $50 gift certificate at Home Depot with a set of Eagle F1s or some of their other tires.

kdshapiro

I brought my car in for it’s first service at 14,800. 250 miles left to go on the service indicator. The check-in was uneventful. I asked for the first service, tire rotate and balance and alignment. The service advisor said they do not recommend tire rotatation and asked if I was having a problem. I said no, but have you seen the potholes lately? He said unless you feel you’re having a specific problem, save yourself some money. If you have a problem bring the car back and we’ll fix it. So I said okay just go with the first service.

They gave me a loaner a 325xi with step, PP, CWP, H/K upgrade, Xenons.

Some impressions:

1. BMW seems to have fixed the problems with the H/K radio. This radio played flawlessly AM and FM no buzzing or static what-so-ever.

2. The ride was a bit softer than my 330i with the sportier suspension and low profile tires. I didn’t feel I could push the car as hard in the corners as my 330i.

3. The interior was as quiet as anything. Compared to my car with CD cases, metal things in the glove box, changed in the ash tray, loose CD cases and other loose items in the trunk – this car was quiet. Not one rattle or squeak from anywhere, or wind noise. (No wind noise or rattles on mine either). The doors, as in my 330i, closed with that satisfying thud.

4. The 2.5 engine has plenty of oomph. Not as much oomph as the 3L, but for those who don’t care to get to 60 in nanoseconds, this car has plenty of reserve for every day driving and merging onto busy freeways. No problem getting up to illegal speeds very quickly. Especially when the tach heads north of 4000 rpm. Gas mileage for the day was 26mpg, split between freeway driving and heavy stop and go on local streets.

5. The transmission was really smooth, I could not even tell when the tranny changed gears. It’s smoother than my 330i, and I thought my 330i was smooth.

About the service: The dealer did the standard service and changed the wiper blades, washed and vacuumed the car. The one thing I did notice is that after the micro-filters were changed, how much cleaner the air from the climate control system smelled. That musty smell was now gone.

I brought the car in early in the morning and at about 11:30 the dealer called and said the car was ready. Of course, I picked it up after the work day. All-in-all a pleasant experience. The best part - total cost - $0.

cabbatan1

Hi Todd. I ordered my 325ix wagon about 6 weeks ago with the leatherette. my last car,Sabb 9-5 had leather and was quite nice,however,after having sat in the BMW with the leatherette,I did not feel that the extra $2400 (Canadian) was worth it to me. Lets say,the novelty had worn off and leather seats would have increased my payment by about $30 per month. If going without leather was the cost of getting into the BMW club,so be it. I believe this car is more about the drive than the luxury. Having said that,If money is no object,spring for the leather particularly if you plan to keep the car after your lease is up. If not, don't sweat the leather,just enjoy the car.
Good luck!

ksoman

Somebody was asking if the xenon's show up differently when seen against a wall... according to the diagrams for my bixenons and the salesperson, the left and right are aligned differently.

ksoman

I can't get my rolling code garage to open with my bmw's transreceiver despite the additional rolling code set up ... and i thought having both spouses with electronic engineering degrees might make life easier... so far the only irritant in the new convertible's life...