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Yes this in under warranty and it won't cost me anything but 2 service visits before the 1200 miles break-in period is over seems 1 too many.
It is a great car and fun to drive but if this pattern of things breaking down holds and I have to continue to return to the dealer for service every month, it won't be fun anymore.
How do other owners deal with the quality issue? Do you all just shrug and say this is the price we pay for driving a BMW? Maybe I am in the minority -- maybe everyone else's car is troublefree. Thanks.
Rotational issue really only pops up on cars that use same size tire on all four wheels. And that don't use unidirectional tires.
One solution: buy a BMW that has staggered tire sizing and unidirectional tires. You can't rotate. End of issue. (My 540i6 has 235/45/17 up front and 255/40/17 in rears.)
Big thing everyone can do is periodic 4-wheel alignment. Keep her in spec and you'll get the most out of your tires. I say do this about every 10,000 miles or thereabouts.
That being said I have had my share of Japanese autos that have gone back to the dealer a number of times before the first oil change, thinking it really didn't bode well. Well those cars turned out to be okay, sort of.
It's annoying for sure, but you have a 4 year warranty so work with the dealer for fix the issues and enjoy the car.
Bangle has bought a significant stake in the BMW Certified Pre-Owned program. As He is getting a big % of the CPO sells, Bangle has created this perfect scheme to increase his income!
By messing up with the 3 and 5 re-designs, the market for older BMW will triplicate, securing his future income regardless of what happens with his job at BMW :-D
Just kidding. However, please don't destroy the 3 series, I don't want it to look like Carmen Miranda with extra makeup, tons of mascara, etc. I don't want it to become bigger nor heavier!
If the American market wants a BMW Camry, make it and name it something else, but keep the 3 series a 3 series!
By the way, thank denk for the TSB number
Best Regards,
Shipo
From the many BMW boards out there, one would think that BMW's have a lot of issues because there are so many forums to express discontent at BMW if something minor goes wrong with ones car. I have had no problems in 1.5 years and just took the car for its free annual oil change. Also, my dealership and service experience has been excellent.
By contrast, my previous honda had so many things cracking and falling out during the 1st year of ownership. I guess it is hit or miss with every manufacturer.
Has anybody noticed that you have to be fairly close to get the garage door to open?
-Paul
I'm not exactly sure when they corrected this mistake, but you can call BMWUSA to see if your car has the light steering. They will replace for free but I hear from other forums there is a long waiting list now.
The phone for BMW USA is 800-831-1117
I just bought my first BMW ever, a 2002 325I silver/black.....and only option is a sunroof. Even though it's bare bones, I love it, and bought the car this way because I want to make some changes myself. The first thing I want to do is change the wheels.....and I was wondering how large you can go on wheel size before creating problems for yourself. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Any other things you would change/add would be appreciated as well.
Biggest
You do get roadside assistance with CPO. CPO coverage has nothing to do with the original free maintenance period, though you can buy a one year extension to that program for the older cars that were originally 3/36 maintenance.
I bought both my current BMWs CPO. I've been very satisfied so far.
Either way, congrats!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Anyway, a simple early nightmare woke me up and i just finished succesfully programming the opener.
1. My garage opener is manufactured by Genie
2. They call the rolling code as Intellicode
3. For Genie, their instructions say that once the receiver learning is triggered and the light is blinking, press the remote (bmw transreceiver) button 3 times
4. I did that and it did not work
5. I did that again, this time holding the button 2 seconds approximately for each of the 3 times and it worked, voila!
6. To second Erick, yes I observed you have to be real close for the garage to open and also unlike free standing remotes, the one in the car can't be used if the car is switched off...
cheers
kso
If I have the UGO "learn" one of the remotes, it will not learn the other. I essentially can use the opener on only one door.
Has anyone else experienced this?
I guess there has to be a way to find out if Bangle gets a cut from CPO 8-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
How much will it cost to repair your "i-drive" when it starts bugging out six years from now?
Best Regards,
Shipo
BTW. My dealer has the interesting key readers. The key reader reads the vin, mileage and service interval and more from the key. Interesting stuff.
Get a fresh battery into your handheld before you program your car's homelink... the signal can get very weak due to high battery drain in programming cycle. Additionally they actually ask you to program your universal at 2 inches, then if it works, program it by holding the remote at 4 inches and keep increasing till you are well around 8 inches. if you can get upto 8 inches, your car can open the garage from a farther distance... i tried and it worked.
http://www.geniecompany.com/Support/replaceremote.htm
ksso
My question is; what speed measuring device is the speed limiter using? I previously would've guessed it was the same sensor that the speedo uses, but I no longer think that to be the case.
For what it's worth, I do not condone driving at these speeds on public roads, nor do I make a habit of doing it. It was an empty road with the exception of me and a truck. The actions of the truck's driver prompted me to decide it was in my best interest to get out of the area in a timely manner.
As far as the sensor, the revolutions of the drive train could be used. Where is the sensor for the speedometer located? Where is the sensor for the odometer located? In addition, the sensor could have been off a couple of mph.
After repeated viewing, I have sort of talked myself into thinking the E60 is OK. However you shouldn't HAVE to convince yourself if the design is really good. E.g, the first instant I saw the previous generation Audi A4, I though Wow! What a nice design. I didn't have to squint and say "it's really not so bad once you get used to it".
I understand Bangle's concept of appealing to a wider audience to sell more cars. Maybe it will work. For decades Detroit's mantra was "sheet metal sells", and focusing on that worked for a while. I know lots of non-enthusiasts who think BMWs look plain or austere, so maybe it will work.
But I'd rather BMW continue a conservative, minimalist design approach, focus on
engineering, and leave the sheet metal pyrotechnics, avant-garde interiors and iDrive to the Japanese and Americans.
This is all the more ironic considering BMW used to have an anti-Mercedes advertising slogan saying: "our status symbol is under the hood, not on top of it". With Bangle (the Picasso of automobile designers) this is changing.
After Bangle, it appears if you want classic, conservative Bauhaus styling, you'll have to get it from Audi. Also if you prefer the curved, cockpit-style dash or the aircraft-like gauges, you'll have to get that elsewhere as well.
Maybe five years from now we'll adjust and prefer new BMW interior and exterior designs. Heck, maybe by then everybody will even like iDrive. But right now the new stuff is quite a jolt.
I have a 1997 328i. Been great, had a few little problems, some of which the dealer fixed, no problem, some of which have been written off as "can't duplicate." Sometimes the dash lights go out when it's cold, no one knows why. Also heard a weird engine tick that went away.
But overall everything is stock after 6 years and 85K miles. In general i get really paranoid about machinery and repairs, so i envision every little noise costing me a couple grand. Nothing major's gone wrong yet, but i don't know if that means i'll continue to be repair-free for four more years, or, if, after the warranty expires, i'd be paying to have a new 328i shipped here from munich part-by-part. Again, paranoia.
But the CPO warranty is just about to expire. Therefore, being a nervous nelly, i'm considering trading it in. On? A mini! The mini is the only car i'd want to replace my 3 with that isn't really expensive. I've driven one and i really loved it. I think it's more fun to drive than an m3.
I'd probably have to shell out about $4000 to conduct the transaction. I may be wrong on this count, perhaps overestimating the value of my trade. But i think it's in the ballpark, as the car is well-maintained and has a good set of snow tires on good rims.
Then i get three years of upkeep, four years of warranty. I estimate $1500 in upkeep costs over the three years-- inspection 1 & 2, my bi-yearly synthetic oil changes, and a brake and coolant flush. So, if repairs have a fair chance of exceeding $1500-$2500 over four years, it makes financial sense. Somewhat less, and i can rationalize peace of mind and using the mini to kiss cones.
Remember, nothing has been replaced on this car but the climate control, so i'm guessing clutch/water pump/alternator are likely. Shocks too i guess? Oxygen sensors?
I'm thinking out loud to some extend, but i guess i'd be interested in hearing from people with 90K+ miles e36's out of warranty with regards to upkeep costs.
dave
On the other hand, I cannot figure out why people are sooooo paranoid or plain goofed up about iDrive. Its as simple as trying to learn the mouse when it first came out back in the 80s with personal computers... hell, it might be easier than that... I remember spending days trying to get the mouse to move where I wanted it to... as for the iDrive... 15 minutes.....
anyway, cheers
http://www.fastcompany.com/online/62/bmw.html
I happened to like old (the 80's) 325 design a lot although current design is fine, too. Hope he doesn't get carried away too much with upcoming new 3-series.
I don't think you are going to trade for anything near $4000. Before you go any farther, stop by the dealer and get a trade value on your car. My guess is they are going to hit a '97 328i with your mileage at $10-12K. Figure about $20K for a nicely equipped MINI.
Good luck,
kyfdx
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regards,
kyfdx
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BMW NA is subsidizing the lease on the 7-series (62% residual vs. a more realistic 49% estimated by independents). Eating up the cost on the residual is probably the most graceful way out. The Z4 looks like a glorified Tiburon to me - I don't care how well it drives, I don't want to be seen in that car. The E60 is blah... horrible on all the pictures I've seen and the rear looks like a Christmas tree. I am keeping my E46 325i for a looooong while.
I read somewhere that Renault is thinking of re-entering the U.S. market in a few years by using Nissan's dealerships. Don't think there will be any demand for French cars in the U.S. in many years.
I won my class (13 cars) in the last autoX - had to show off!! I've decided to put in UUC sway bars. I think I will pay someone that knows how to do it right. Called Turner Motorsport for a quote - I was told they are racing for the next few weeks and I can't even get a quote but the stock sways are 1 - 1 1/2 hrs of labor. Thought it was cool. These are they guys that I'd love to have upgrade my car's suspension but I don't know if I can wait for 2 months...