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Comments
Of the cars you've listed, all are pretty good, but the platforms vary. In San Diego, I seriously doubt you need AWD unless you plan to go skiing up at Mammoth or Tahoe.
I've learned, being the owner of a Honda Civic Si myself, that I've really gotten to enjoy the RWD driving experience. I had forgotten how much I enjoy it. We are looking to replace our SUV with another sedan and all of our choices are RWD... gotta love that my wife thinks that way too!
Our list includes a BMW, an Infiniti, and a Lincoln. While I currently have a BMW, I'm not letting that affect the fact that I'm looking at other options. You are definitely taking the right track and being open in your selection.
Drive each one. Price them with the options YOU want. Don't let anybody tell you what you should have or should not have. After all, this is YOUR car.
Before you get your car, spec out each of the models you want equipped how you want. Get the best offers from the dealers you want to deal with. Once you have your desired car configurations and prices for those, decide what works best for you. Do NOT feel like you have to rush.
Best of luck. All of your choices sound good and seem logically thought out.
-Paul
I'm going to be in San Diego (Mission Valley) in October for some training and our anniversary... looking forward to SD in October... should be wonderful!
Anyway, all this is a totally uncompensated commentary for those interested in a place to stay in Munich....
BTW, in Stuttgart we rented a BMW 5-series diesel wagon--lovely and great to drive, though not exactly peppy. The navigation system was lots of fun, particularly on the twisties in the countryside of Baden-Wurtemburg. And if you are in the area (to pick up a car or otherwise) a drive down to Burg Hohenzollern is essential.
Best wishes,
Ed
Is this true? Where did you hear this. Would this apply to a 2003 325xi?
That just reminded me how much I love this site. I love my car too BTW (2002 325i, electric red w/black leatherette, PP, HK, Xenon, and no front lisence plate mount). I have had it about a year, and have almost 9,000 miles on it (I drive very locally, and the Caravan hauls the family around daily). I've had no unscheduled maintenance performed on the car (although my left rear window makes a snapping noise when it goes all the way up in high temperatures). Overall, I would not make one different buying decision if I were to purchase the car today.
OK, I'm curious what it would feel like with more aggressive tires (you always are when you drive hard and can feel the limit is in the tires) - but I'm not sure I would trade the quiet, smooth ride in everyday driving for the few times a month when I could really push the rubber.
Anyway, thanks to everybody who helps keep this site a wealth of information. I'll have to come by again more often.
1. TSX comes fully loaded not just to the gills but way above your head in the water.
2. A comparably yet more highly priced 325 will come with nothing and yet will be hard to find cuz most dealers load them up on orders for margins. Keep adding options till you feel satisfied and the price differential not just crawls up, it screams up fast.
The other day a friend of mine looked up a bare bones 2004 bmw 325 convertible configuartion online and said to me, dude your wife's car is just under 39K... i just shrugged and walked away because i did not care to tell him that after all the options put in and the tax and title, we tabbed at 48.5K... and then in ridiculous states like AZ, you pay a huge huge extra amount in tax and title with a % that is linked directly to the base msrp because cars are treated as movable property... I so wish I'd bought my recent cars in states like NJ... oh well anyway.
ksso
Re a 325i automatic, I know it satisfies many. However I've driven a few and frankly they seem somewhat sluggish. For some reason an auto saps power of the 2.5L engine more than the 3.0L engine; maybe because of lower torque.
Like other posters said, I'd personally prefer a stripped 330i over a well-equipped 325i. However finding a stripped or minimally-equipped 330i is almost impossible. In my experience it would have to be specially ordered.
It was already said, but make sure you drive a G35. It doesn't handle as good as a sport package 3-series, but it handles very well. A 325i and G35 cost roughly the same, yet the power difference between them is simply vast. How important this is varies by the individual, but make sure you drive one. The G35 interior isn't as nice, but many find it OK. I've driven a G35 a lot, and prefer my 330i SP, but make sure you drive one.
If you only need occasional back seat room, the RX-8 is a good option. It's definitely in your price range. It's probably the only engine as smooth as a BMW inline six. However the automatic is definitely not a good choice for the RX-8; a less powerful engine is used for that model.
1. TSX comes fully loaded not just to the gills but way above your head in the water.
2. A comparably yet more highly priced 325 will come with nothing and yet will be hard to find cuz most dealers load them up on orders for margins. Keep adding options till you feel satisfied and the price differential not just crawls up, it screams up fast.
Maybe I wrote something incorrectly but I wrote:
"I understand but really the leap between a 325i and a TSX isn't that huge. Let the 325i owners throw stones, I don't care. A 325i loaded up with all the TSX's features makes it's crazy expensive for very little performance gain. "
I was talking about the performance gain going to the 325i over a TSX. There's very little difference there. I pointed out exactly what you wrote, that a 325i optioned like a TSX would be "crazy expensive for very little performance gain."
My co-worker says Discover Infiniti is letting the G35s go for as little as $200 over invoice. I didn't ask if that applied to manuals/autos, loaded or not. I plan to set up a test drive in the next day or so.
While I'm at it, I might as well go to Cush Acura, and do the TSX.
Now I understand what my parents were going through when they were looking in the 27-32K range. There are just so many more choices (all of them good) that it can be hard to make a decision. They're still in the '95 Intrepid they had when they started shopping -- four years ago.
I know I could just go ahead with the BMW and not look back. But I do owe Infiniti, Acura, and Mazda at least one test drive.
Stupid meeting at work is about to begin. I'll have more specific responses to some of what's been posted recently toward the afternoon/evening. Thanks again for all feedback.
This is a big deal for me -- 6'2", with a 34" inseam. BMW is also one of the few cars with a sunroof in which I can fit. I don't really want a sunroof.. but nearly all come that way.
I found the sportronic to be a pretty good match for the engine. I'll know more when I get my hands on a 5sp. 325i in the next day or two.
I have considered the 330i. I'll probably seriously consider it on the CPO side of the dealership.
You're right about the interior of the G35 not being as nice as the 325i. That's a big thing for me.
Okay, more to come later. Thanks
I love the little Acuras. I've gone through 3 Integras myself, and bought two others (one for my mother and an ancient 1990 beater for my litle brother). They are really magnificent little cars, and truth be told, my reaction to driving the RSX was that it would be, for me, a perfectly satisfying substitute for a 325. I didn't drive the TSX, but was suitably impressed by the fit and finish, which offered a completely different feel than the slightly ricey, boy-racer RSX (I liked the RSX a ton, but the interior made me feel old at age 29). The TSX had an elegant, 3-type appeal I found quite likeable. Having not driven it, my only concern was that by using the same engine as the RSX on a bigger and heavier car, that the power would not feel as rewarding as did the RSX.
What I would point out is that the TSX is still a front driver (although a much better front driver than most - the Audi included), and that half of it is lost without Acura's magnificent shifter. If you're going automatic, perhaps the torque of a BMW/Audi should win the day.
For some reason, I categorically dislike the Nissan/Infinitis, that transcends my distaste for Renault and its French overlords. I realize that their designs have improved radically in the past 2 years, and that they are sort of the "hot" company right now. Perhaps I just had a terrible experience with their salesmen (a 22-year old Infitini salesman wearing a $50 suit claimed he had personally owned and sold 2 E46 M3s, and that the G35 would clearly out-handle and blow the doors off an M3. I shudder to think what he would have claimed if I drove onto the lot in our C4S). Nonetheless, I found the cars (the G35 and the Z350) to be breathtakingly stylish while simultaneously being hopelessly soulless. I much preferred to strap on the Acuras, despite their relatively stodgy styling.
I do agree with the people who have suggesting reaching a bit for the 330. I know that you've saved up to pay entirely with cash, and that going to the 330 may put you beyond your planned price range. But if you're going automatic, the 330 seemed to me to be head-and-shoulders better than the 325. A combination of torque, HP, and cheating (they goosed the throttle response a little), make the 330 a lot more satisfying in the automatic trim.
We made that exact choice with our own 330. We were specifically looking for a color, and it came down to a 325 with SP and halogens versus the 330 without SP and xenons. In a stick, I might have gone the other way, but in the auto, the 330 was incomparably better in my opinion.
1pierce - I'll let you know my results in a week. We just bought a set of 68M wheels with the stock 225/45 Dunlop sports in the front and a set of 255/40 Pirelli P-Zero Assymetricos in the rear, which will replace the stock 205/50 all-season Continentals on the 330. The tires will go on the car Saturday after next, and I'm optimistic about the extra confidence they'll provide in the twisties. As a 2001, the 330 does not have the Sport suspension, so we'll see how far a set of replacement tires will take us with stock non-SP shocks and springs.
Titanium Silver, Tannin red interior, aluminum trim, stick, SP, HK, BiX and no moonroof. I have no idea what the asking price is, but I've heard that Cutter is a high quality dealership. God, I love the red interior with alunimum trim. I saw a 330 convertible and an M3 convertible with that combo... wow. The only problem is that this one is a stick, and you said you wanted a step.
Is it ok to post a link to the bimmerfest thread here, or is that not kosher?
It's not the same engine. It's got more torque and it's larger displacement (2.4 v 2.0).
What I would point out is that the TSX is still a front driver (although a much better front driver than most - the Audi included), and that half of it is lost without Acura's magnificent shifter. If you're going automatic, perhaps the torque of a BMW/Audi should win the day.
The TSX has 166 lb-ft of torque and it's a very flat curve. The 325i has 175 lb-ft. Not that much difference.
I do agree with the people who have suggesting reaching a bit for the 330. I know that you've saved up to pay entirely with cash
Oh I pray he's not throwing away cash on a car purchase. If he has 30k saved up, put it in S&P 500 index funds or something else. Rates are ludicrously low on loans (2.9 for 60 months), while he can pull down 11% on an S&P fund. He's giving money away if he buys a depreciating asset like a car for cash when rates are this low!
I've come to the end of my service warranty for my '01 325ci. I've read here that I may be better off using an independent tech for my repair and service needs. Does anyone here know of a good independent BMW tech in the north San Diego area? Thanks..
True, rates are insanely low. And, true, the S&P funds have been doing very well lately (as evidenced by my latest 401(k) statement). Perhaps I should clarify and say I'm leaning towards paying cash. I tell the salespeople that I'm a cash shopper, so they won't start throwing monthly payment figures around in an attempt to get me to buy right then and there (but then, that's their job). I also get the impression that a cash deal looks better to most salespeople, so perhaps.. just perhaps.. they'd be a little more open to coming down a bit more on the price. Maybe I'll find out when it gets time to make offers.
Once the cash I'm expecting from the sale of my condo arrives, I may feel differently about spending so much of it in one place. But then, it'd be a real budget stretcher for me to carry a 25 or 28K car note, even at 2.9 or whatever they're offering these days.
I know I can save whatever 60 months of interest would amount to if I paid cash. There's no guarantee the S&P 500 will continue doing 11-17% gains for the next five years. Likely? Possibly? Probably? Yes.. but still no guarantee. That is not to poo-poo the suggestion of investing vs. paying cash. It's just the view from where I see things at this very moment.
Anyway, I'm totally out of my league even starting a financial debate, and I don't know why I feel like I need to defend my choices. But I will take the financing option seriously. I may be more likely to pay cash if I buy CPO, since rates generally tend to be a bit higher for used cars, and a 1 to 3-year-old car has already taken the brunt of the depreciation hit. But then, buying used is a whole 'nother issue for me -- one I shall save for another time.
Thanks again. This is fun.
MSPR- 32,970
Sale Price of the car- 31,575
Residual Value- 56
Money Factor?? I'm putting down 968 plus MV fees .... when you re-lease w/ BMW FS you don't have to put down anything for security deposit. Let me know if I'm really getting shafted!! Thanks
I, for one, usually buy cars with cash. The spread on the funds is usually narrow enough that it isn't a material decision. Regardless, I wouldn't be caught dead long on S&Ps. Why?
Because as a mid/senior-level banker, the vast majority of my compensation comes in the form of a year-end bonus, and that bonus is highly sensitive to market conditions. My business is highly cyclical, and there is a huge beta that I need to hedge. 80% of my colleagues have been laid off over the last two years, and that's just about par for the course in i-banking. When markets go south, bankers end up on the street.
Being long in markets is a great way to double up an already substantial market exposure risk I face daily. To put it in statistical terms, I have a huge compensation variance, coupled with a high correlation factor with the market. That's a terrible combination to be trying to arbitrage S&Ps versus the money rate.
I'd do this: don't tell them you'll pay cash until the very end. Surprise them with it. Then see how much they'll give on the price to get the financing to beef up their margin. They get paid so long as you make at least 3 payments before paying off the loan. The offer to finance along with the promise not to immediately repay can be worth a significant price concession. Using it, we were able to bridge a $500 bid-ask spread on a used X5 for a friend I went car shopping with. The funny thing was that he probably needed to finance it anyway, but I got tired of watching him and the sales guy tug-of-war over the last $500.
I just spoke up and said, "Look, what if we finance part of it instead of giving you a check?" The salesguy looked surprised, and gave up the $500 in return for a minimum down payment and a pledge not to repay before 3 months.
Yeah, what he said.
Perhaps I jumped the gun a little even mentioning the whole paying cash thing. I have more than enough time to make that decision. Hell, I haven't even driven all there is in the class/price range yet.
So, I guess that makes three people I've heard come down in favor of paying cash for an automobile -- an investment banker on this board, my realtor, and my co-worker who happens to be among the most respected broadcast and print business journalists in San Diego. All three have qualifications and experience in the money game that I'll never have. Perhaps they're onto something.
The way I see it, any car is going to depreciate -- no matter if it's new, used, financed, or paid in full up front. I tend to keep my cars for a long time, so maybe cash is smart.
Perhaps in the meantime, I need to redirect my messages to the task at hand -- finding the car I'll drive for the next 8-10 years. I'll be more than happy to crunch numbers with y'all when I gots some to crunch :-).
Oh, btw, I spoke with my ins. agent today about how much that'll run me. Funny thing, if I were to keep my Civic, and get a BMW, insuring both would cost me less than $100 more a year than insuring just the BMW. Alright for multiple car discount. Too bad I don't have a 2-car garage to keep both. (The way it is right now, the BMW would have to live on the street, just like the Civic is right now.)
Since I'm sensitive to equity market risk, the true delta for me is between risk-free securities and the money rate. For me, the best proxy is 60-90 day treasuries, and so the money difference isn't hugely material when I compare it to the peace of mind of just getting it done and out of the way. But I agree, if it was a risk-free 1200 basis point difference it would be insane not to finance, but for 400 bps I'll take my licks and pay the cash.
Sale Price of the car- 31,575
Residual Value- 56
BMWFS dropped the residual on 2003s in July. That's taking a big bite and will raise your payments.
Money Factor??
You're leasing and you don't know money factors? Oh boy. The MF is essentially your APR. visit http://leaseguide.com/
Using the lease guide calculator I came up with the following:
MSRP= 33000
Sale price 31500
Costs added to lease: 1000
Adjusted Cap Cost= 32500
Residual (56%) = 18,480
Money Factor = 0.0025
Term = 48 months (you mentioned this was a 4yr/12k in another post?)
Sales tax = 7.75 (I used california tax...just a guess)
Monthly cost= 453.93.
I'd visit bimmerfest and go to the ask-the-dealer forum and simply request the latest money factors for the 325i.
Whenever I pick up the Sunday Los Angeles Times I see ad after ad after ad for BMW houses in Orange and LA counties, and I've wondered if they might be willing to cut a better deal than the handful of SD dealers. It sounds like they are, based on your experience.
I'd be a little leery of buying so far away from home. I know this is going to sound like a silly question, but do dealers really care where you bought the car when you come back for warranty-covered maintenance or repair? My guess is they don't. But I would like to have the original dealer/salesperson close by, just in case there were persistent problems with the car.
Huh, I just couldn't see not taking the chance. If your investment starts to plunge, pull the plug and slap it back into the car. At these insanely low auto rates, I have a hard time dropping my cash on a car. But then again, i got a rate that's equal to 0.72%. I can deal with paying BMW $700 in interest over 3 years.
Why? Every dealership must honor the warranty? And say you buy from a dealer and discover their service isn't up to your standards...then what? do you stick by them or go somewhere else? Obviously you decamp for a better dealership. Buy your BMW where you get the best deal. They all have to service the car...
By the way, check out this article:
http://www.bankrate.com/brm/news/auto/20010523a.asp?keyword=&- authorid=14&firstn=Lucy&middlen=&lastn=Lazarony
Edmunds agrees too that it's a good idea to just negotiate price and leave out the financing stuff. Trust me, my dealer was not pleased when I let him know I was aware of the special lease money factors and that I wanted to do multiple security deposits. the dealership made far less on the sale of my car than a normal sale.
Off-topic, but I've been looking at pre-owned 360s, and ohmygod the color on this one blew me away. It's just beautiful beyond words. Too bad it's in Hawaii...
http://www.ferrariusa.com/Marketplace/index.asp?Family=1&Car=- - 2261
Yes, I know it's not a BMW, nor will it ever be. But it comes close enough for this current Honda owner. For a front-driver, it has an eerie lack of torque steer. And I'm a sucker for the electroluminescent instrument panel. Now, the hard part will be resisting getting one until after the check clears from the condo sale.
So, I guess I'll be moving to the TSX v. 325i board. I thank you all for your time.. especially those of you who urged me to check out the TSX. I'm so glad I did.
Oh, I also drove a G35 this afternoon. Nice car, incredibly powerful and very roomy -- but too noisy, and the clutch/shifter takes a lot of concentration to get right. The clutch acts like a toggle switch, and the shifter is wayyyy too notchy for a Japanese car.
Okay, I guess that's enough out of me for awhile.
the tsx... i think it drives like no other front runner... but no we eventually did not buy it.. my wife could not stand its looks, despite we having the euro accord as a rental for a month in france last year end.... anyway.
ok i thought i'm the insane insensitive one to think nissan makes some really horrendous sticks, because their shifters are just too weird in feel... atleast there's another human out there who feels the same... wow i'm not alone in the universe...
ksso
AutoWeek also writes, "The Accord coupe, at a nearly identical curb weight, is still a better choice for performance-oriented buyers."
Then check out the current, September/2003, issue of Car & Driver, p 134. Their "Short Take" on Honda Accord Coupe EX V6. They like it. And its numbers are very good: 0-60 mph in 5.9 seconds, 1/4 mile in 14.5 seconds at 98 mph, drag limited top speed of 135 mph, 70-0 braking in 181 ft, and skidpad at 0.82g. They observed 23 mpg. Price as tested of $28,360.
0-60 mph in 5.6 seconds
1/4 mile in 14.3 seconds at 97 mph
70-0 mph in 158 feet
Skidpad at 0.86g
Top Speed: 152 mph (drag limited)
Observed 20 mpg
Price as tested at $40,095
The both note how great it works as a total package. Great steering, ride quality, handling, braking, tires (Michelin Pilot Sports), transmission, and engine.
After I drove the TSX, I went over to Pacific Honda to see if I could drive an Accord EX sedan with a stick. But they didn't have one, and the salesman said they probably wouldn't get one for another couple of weeks. They also had no V6 Accord coupes with a stick. I'm sure a V6/6sp. coupe would be quite a car -- but I'm tired of having only two doors, and I need better gas mileage (I think I could wring out nearly 30 mpg on the freeway with the 4cyl. TSX). That, and I just plain like the way the TSX looks over the Accord (which is a bit bloated to me -- and what the hell is up with the front end?).
I didn't read the AutoWeek cover-to-cover, so I missed the write-up on the 330i. But I know $40k is out of my price range. I'm also wary of buying anything that demands premium fuel in a part of the country where it's hard to find the stuff for less than $1.80 a gallon. There have been two or three occasions in the last couple of years when premium in San Diego shot up to $2.25-plus, and stayed there for weeks. The TSX says it'll drink regular. I don't mean to sound like a cheapskate here, but an extra .20-.30 a gallon really adds up over the course of a year.
Oh, I also stopped by John Hine Mazda in Mission Valley to check out the RX-8. There were two on the lot (one for $27k, the other for $31k). There was also another loaded one on the showroom floor. The salesman said they're not letting people drive them unless they're ready to buy right then and there. Not a smart move for Mazda. By the time they do get enough RX-8s for anyone to take a quick spin, so many people will have been refused test drives that they'll say "screw Mazda and its crappy dealers." Besides, an RX-8 wouldn't work so well for me anyway -- the whole point of getting another car is to get something larger than a Civic. I was surprised when I wedged myself into the back seat, and discovered there was enough room to survive a trip to the beach or the movies. I wouldn't want to ride to LA in the back, but still, it's nice to know the back seats are acutally functional.
Thanks for listening.
My 325i is the first good RWD drive car I have ever owned, and let me tell you, it does not understeer - even with the base suspension and all season tires. Breakaway is very predictable, and inspires confidence as you are reaching the limits. My Maxima SE was a pretty good handling FWD car, but at the limit, the front tires always pushed in the turns - even with more aggressive rubber than what I drive on the BMW. Breakaway was sudden, and could be quite unsettling. The front would push, and the back would snap loose when I tried to correct.
In the BMW, when you reach the limit, the car just slides softly sideways, until you correct (re: lift) - then it tucks back in neatly. I don't know how it would be on true performance tires, but I am not as afraid to drive this car hard, because I think I can catch it before I end up in the ditch.
My impressions of the TSX (admittedly from reading, not driving), are that it is a stiffened up front wheel driver, that still understeers. noticeably at the limit. Frankly, I'd buy a stripped 325, a CTS, or a G35 before I bought a TSX. Actually, if you like Honda, you're probably better off with a TL or CL Type S. These got pretty good reviews for understeer (especially the CL in a comparo against a 330Ci when it first came out). Alas, they'll still understeer, but you can get one used for the same money, and take advantage of that famous Honda long-term reliability.
Perhaps I've been spoiled by my '93 Accord; however, I have recently driven two "well rated" cars and noticeably disliked their clutch and gearbox feel.
2002 Nissan Altima: nice handling car but the nasty "notchy" gearbox actually ruined the driving experience. The clutch seemed to be OK.
2001 Volkswagem Passat: Surprised me with the amount of body roll that occured during cornering, has left me a bit perplexed as to what all the "handling hype" is about regarding this vehicle. As for the gearbox and clutch, the gearbox felt like it was directly tied to the engine with a bungie cord. Clutch pick up was high and difficult to modulate smoothly.
I'm almost afraid to test drive the TSX, everything I've heard and read about it has been very positive, especially comments pertaining to the gearbox and clutch.
SSO
Someone suggested the Accord coupe... it may actually be faster, but it doesn't feel faster. I suspect you'll have way more fun in a TSX than any Accord.
Good choice on the Renault, err Nissan, err Infiniti. Keep in touch, let us know how your TSX goes. By the way, on the nav, at first you'll think it's a gimmick. Then, the first time you use it, it will blow your mind. Six months from now, you'll wonder how ANYONE lives without it.
Congrats!
I figured you'd enjoy it.
BTW, I also looked at the Accord V6 coupe. With the stick it feels nice but the handling was satisfying and I'm not a coupe person. I'd take the TSX even though it has less power.
Seeing C&D's numbers on the ZHP, I kinda scratch my head. 5.6? Doesn't feel that fast. And someone pointed out that bimmers get better mileage as they age. I'm seeing that now. My mileage numbers are up around 21-22 mpg and that's in lots of stop and go, mixed with constant trips to 6000+ rpms.
It's the opposite of a sport clutch in many ways, but every bit as intuitive. If you need a 911-like "heavy" clutch, this isn't it, but the travel is gratifyingly short, as is the stick throw and smoothness.
The Acura shifter, in my opinion, shows that you don't have to have an 'extreme' clutch and shifter to be wonderfully tactile.
As a side-note, for people who haven't tried the new M3 transmission, it's not by any stretch the old E36 M3's - it's clearly more tempermental and sportscar-like. While not as unforgiving as, say, a Porsche 911, it demands to be babied until warm, it doesn't glide ever and it will reward you with the appropriate CLUNK and jerk if you aren't smooth and polished with your shifts.
http://www.perillobmw.com/
You can find a dealer near you through www.bmwusa.com
Just not sure how up-to-date the inventory is but you get a fairly good idea.
I've owned several 4-cyl Accords. While Honda I4 engines are very good and smooth (for a 4-cyl), it doesn't quite match the velvet smoothness of BMW's I6.
As another point of comparision, I've driven an Infiniti G35 extensively. While it handles very, very well, it doesn't equal a sport-package-equipped 3-series. I'd imagine the front-drive TSX is at best roughly equal to the G35, handling-wise.
When I pushed the G35 real hard, I could never tell how close to the limit I was. My 330i SP feels almost telepathic by comparision -- it's like the chassis is talking to you nonverbally the whole time, saying "OK you're at 80%, now at 90%, now you're at 110%, but don't worry, we'll only slide 3 feet, just back off the throttle and you've got it". Even if you rarely drive real hard, it's still comforting to know how high its limits are and how communicative the suspension is.
I'm probably going to get the new tires from Tirerack. Does anyone have any experience using places like Merchants, NTB, or Sears to replace or install tires ? I wouldn't think it would be necessary to go to the BMW dealer to install new tires.
(1) Replace only the ones that need to be replaced, the fronts can be switched later
(2) Don't worry about matching brands
(3) If you're running 225 fronts 245 rears on the SP 68M wheels, you'll actually find that 255/40s match the diameter of the fronts a little better (the ideal is 256mm I believe). If you don't mind a potentially rougher ride, maybe you might want to go to 255s.
(4) The Continentals are a cheap and effective tire to use. I much prefer the Michelin Pilot Sports, but they are very pricey. I believe the rears are about $300 each. I bought a set of Pirelli P-Zero Assymetricos - the reviews tend to say wonderful grip, a bit rough and the tire wears extremely quickly. The new Pirelli P-Zero Neros mitigate those disadvanatges a bit, I've heard. For the final word, call the Tire Rack and ask one of their reps. I've always received well-explained info from them.
(5) I would get them balanced and mounted either at a discount tire outlet or one of the department store automotive depts. No reason at all to get the dealer involved. If you are changing anything more major (shocks, springs, rim+tire profile sizes etc.), I'd probably get them to do an alignment as well.
By the way, our stock 205/50 continental all-seasons have 30,000 miles on them, and still have great treads left. The dealer asked if we had replaced the tires recently. I guess that shows how much longer all-seasons last (and how gently the 330 has been driven I suppose).