BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • walter12walter12 Member Posts: 30
    Thanks for the info...I'm going to order an extractor ASAP. I was all set to change the oil today, but now I'll just have to wait till I get it. Thanks again for all the good information. Walter
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    The Griot's version does hold the full 7 quarts but, like most things from Griot's, less expensive versions can definitely be found.
  • helena143helena143 Member Posts: 8
    Hi. I am trying to decide between the G35 and a BMW 330i, and wud appreciate any ideas on what else I shud try. (I've tried both cars plus the IS300 and the RX-8). I was almost sold on the G35 until I read about its brake and cd players problems. Plus people are not pleased with Infiniti's service.

    I guess now I have no option, b/c the only comparable car to a G35 (BMW 330i w/ performance package--a must. Otherwise it's too slow.) is too much $$$. After receiving excellent service from both Honda and Saab, I have no interest in getting crap from any service dept./dealer. I mean, Saab gives you a loaner even if you are getting an oil change! And they just finished replacing the entire 200 watt Harmon Kardon sound system on my 9-5 because ONE speaker was fried (which was me playing the music too loud, not a defect). I definitely do not want to downgrade either in car quality (my 9-5 has been PERFECT) or service.

    However, I just did some research on Lexis and and Infiniti is rated very high by JD Power and Associates.

    For initial quality for the 2003 model year:

    1. Lexus
    2. Cadillac
    3. Infiniti

    8. BMW
    11. Honda
    14. Benz
    29. Mazda
    32. Saab

    For dependability in 2003 (this rated vehicles of the 2000 model year after 3 years):

    1. Lexus
    2. Infiniti

    13. BMW
    12. Saab
    26. Benz

    For 1998 models after 4 years:

    1. Lexus
    2. Infiniti

    10. BMW
    16. Benz
    19. Saab

    Yet the bottom line seems to be that even tho Infiniti sells great cars, it has never developed the cachet of Lexus, much less BMW, etc. So it is desperate to sell cars. It is trying to rebuild its line (and Nissan) out of the slump brought on by the weak Yen and the success of Lexus.

    Of course, the problem is that it seems to be caring more about GETTING customers than keeping customers.

    Unless I get this car for below invoice, I won't take the chance on crappy product or service.

    Am I right?
  • andergtrandergtr Member Posts: 101
    the problem with infiniti is that their cars take it in the shorts big time on resale value. if you can find one that's a year old you will find a great value.

    i have several friends with infiniti cars--one with a G35 sedan and another one with an I35--and they are wonderful cars. fit and finish is exemplary, and i like the interiors of both the infinitis more than my BMW.

    from what i understand, reliability and service is also where infiniti has the upper hand compared to BMW.

    both are great cars, and IMHO the infiniti is just the better value. having said that, there is a certain exclusivity to the BMW experience which is probably why guys like me pay up for it, even if it means having higher maintenance costs.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    You have to test drive and research. The problem with making a decision based on JD Powers data is that you may actually get a lousy dealer or a lemon. They are good for high level data but don't translate into an individual experience.

    CR recommends the 3 series at this point. I can't speak to high level BMW reliability or dependability, but my vehicle has been serviced (seen any dealer) twice in the last almost 16 months. Seems like a reliable car to me. The two times I had it in I got a 325 as a loaner.

    You need to ask specific questions about these vehicles not about reliability or dealers. Asking any one person about reliability or their dealership experience will not translate into your vehicle being reliable or not or your dealership - unless you use the same dealer.

    I would not throw any of these vehicles out of my garage.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Do you guys have the pricing / part number information for the pump and any accessories you need to do oil extraction yourself? I called my dealer to check the price on an oil change and I had to laugh. No oil change (and A/C filter swap) should cost 200.00.

    For that, I'll do it myself and KNOW that it is being done.

    Is the general consensus here to use Mobil-1?

    -Paul
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'd use the BMW Synthetic; with your CCA discount it will be @$1/qt. less than Mobil 1.
    Was that $200 quote for an Oil Service or for an Inspection 1? Back in 1995 the first Oil Service on my Club Sport cost $75 at the dealer-and that included changing the final drive oil.
  • mrl11777mrl11777 Member Posts: 154
    Here it is: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I've had problems getting to that site today. :(

    Have you guys used this for brake bleeding? I need to change the brake fluid soon and I'd like to be able to do that myself as well and bleed the brakes of air. Do you use the same pump and fluid container for that as well?

    -Paul
  • ddblueddblue Member Posts: 117
    I checked out pricing on both the Griot's version and the Toolwarehouse version. Though the capacity of the MityVac is larger, the total cost including shipping and processing is two dollars more for the MityVac. They charge $16 bucks for processing!
  • tcn2ktcn2k Member Posts: 277
    What is the website for this product?
  • mrl11777mrl11777 Member Posts: 154
    1 MityVac Fluid Evacuator Plus Order# MIT7201MIT7201 $56.05 $56.05
                              Sub Total $56.05
    SalesTax will be added to deliveries to: NV, NY, TX. $0.00
    Shipping (Via UPS to the continental U.S.): UPS Ground $6.95
    Processing Charge: My Order is Over $50.00 and I'm Paying by Credit Card - No Processing Charge $0.00
                                                     Grand Total $63.00

    That was what I paid. There was no processing charge.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I can't say as I've looked to see exactly where the oil filter is on my car. Can I access it from above or do I need to go under the car for it?

    -Paul
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    Griot's has a brake fluid extractor/bleeder on their webpage that looks very much like their oil extractor. It's possible that a couple of hoses/fittings could make the oil extractor dual purpose (the brake fluid extractor's one gallon capacity would be too small to use for oil unless emptying it half way through wouldn't be a problem for you). It is possible, however, that the brake fluid extractor needs more vacuum than the oil extractor can provide.

    It might not hurt to give them a call and see what they say about it. The few times I've dealt with their customer service have been good experiences.

     http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=85700

    http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    The oil filter is under a black cover on the front of the engine, accessed from the above.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    for all the feedback, even to the dumb questions.

    Now that I am only about 90 miles from my 50,000 warranty expiration, I need to start worrying about some of this myself and I don't want to trust the local high school population to change it properly at Jiffy Lube.

    -Paul
  • bing330ibing330i Member Posts: 89
    Where is shipo nowadays? I do not see his posts.
  • ddblueddblue Member Posts: 117
    I checked out pricing on both the Griot's version and the Toolwarehouse version. Though the capacity of the MityVac is larger, the total cost including shipping and processing is two dollars more for the MityVac. They charge $16 bucks for processing!
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    Tonight, while driving home, I noticed a high-frequency shake in the front-end of my car. It only happened when steering left at fairly high speeds (70+mph). I plan on taking it into the dealership tomorrow on my way to work but I fear that they will not be able to reproduce the problem because of the speeds at which it occurs (55mph limit around here). Has anyone else experienced this or something similar who can give me an idea of what the problem might be? Or anyone, based on mechanical experience, just wanna take a stab at it? I have checked tire pressures and they are fine.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Member Posts: 6,249
    but I fear that they will not be able to reproduce the problem because of the speeds at which it occurs (55mph limit around here).

    I sincerely doubt a dealer would blink if you said at 70+ your BMW shakes. If they do, tell them you're taking a trip to states that have speed limits over 70 - Montana, California, etc. The guys at my dealership realize the cars are used in a hyper legal fashion. I doubt BMW culture is that different where you live.
  • scipio1scipio1 Member Posts: 142
    My M3 has not ever been above the speed limit. Honest.

    :)
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Member Posts: 6,249
    Naturally the rest of us obey the speed limit. I was only trying to make him feel better about his antisocial ways.
  • walter12walter12 Member Posts: 30
    I ordered an oil extractor today from Griot's (part #10122). Total cost was $77.95 with no sales tax. Their information indicated that this extractor cannot be used with brake fluid. It seems that the fluid can affect the seals in the extractor. I wanted to check out tool warehouse but kept getting a different website which cost me almost $15 according to mrl1777's figures. I'm still looking forward to having an easy time of oil changes, though.
  • topspin628topspin628 Member Posts: 373
    Interesting that they are now offering SMG on sport versions of all 3 series except the Performance Package Sedan. I wonder if that is to keep some added distinction to the M3.

    Is this SMG the same as available on the M (I think SMG II?)

    Is anyone thinking of getting this option? It doesn't seem to get much interest on this board and yet it sounds like the wave of the future.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    Hey, you guys got me all wrong... I never said *I* was driving. ;-)

    I haven't run into this personally but a coworker with an Accord had a shimmy at speeds above the posted limit. His dealership couldn't find the problem by looking at the car and refused to allow their mechanics to test drive it at the problematic speeds.
  • kennynmdkennynmd Member Posts: 424
    I've never changed the oil on my 325ci either. I was wondering if there is a site I can go to that will show me step by step process in changin my oil? thanks
  • megrdhmegrdh Member Posts: 34
    Hi,
    Please help.
    My first BMW 325 ('01)with 27600 miles is acting weird. After I shifted from reverse to drive, the engine stopped that I must put in park to start the engine again. "Service engine soon" light is on now when it says I still have 3100 miles until the first inspection. It happened about 3 times this week.
    Should i bring it to the service immediately or Ok for a while? Thanks in advance for your advice.
    Meg
    PS: Do I get a "lemon", I had problem with the spring in parking brake before, now this?????? :(
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    megrdh - bring it to the dealer and let them check out the check engine light. If you had the car for 27,000 miles without any real problems, how could you even say the car is a lemon?

    I've had Japanese cars that I had to bring back to the dealer more times than my unreliable Amerian and German cars.
  • mrl11777mrl11777 Member Posts: 154
    http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_oil_extractor.shtml
  • jamesspotjamesspot Member Posts: 57
    kyfdx,
    Just bought for $650 (including shipping at the online auction site) a set of stock takeoff wheels from a BMW 330xi including the Conti's that came on that car. The 330i ZHP car is set up for 18" staggered tires. Will the 17 x 7" tires provide "twitchy" handling with the performance package suspension, due to toe-in and camber changes compared to a standard 330i/xi? The wheels go on around Thanksgiving. Just curious if anyone had this experience in going from sport to standard tires...
    Jim
  • bluegray330bluegray330 Member Posts: 12
    I just bought a 2001 330i CPO. Couple questions:
    1) The standard feature list from Edmunds says the car comes with alarm system and I do see the alarm indicating lamp under the rear-view mirror. However, my dealer told that the car didn't come with alarm when I bought it. Which one is true?
    2) How often does BMW requires the car to be inspected? oil changed? And what are the cost correspondingly? When I turned on the car, the computer shows about 15K miles from the oil change, how do I find out how many miles away from inspection.
    3) What is the difference between inspection I and II? cost wise also?
    thanks
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Member Posts: 6,249
    1) The standard feature list from Edmunds says the car comes with alarm system and I do see the alarm indicating lamp under the rear-view mirror. However, my dealer told that the car didn't come with alarm when I bought it. Which one is true?


    No alarm with a 3 series. It's got the clown nose the dealer can set to blink which is just as good as an alarm.

    If a thief isn't deterred by the sight of a blinking alarm light, then he's not going to give a hoot if your horn honks and lights flash with a siren wailing. Your 3 series can't be stolen by a guy with a screwdriver and guts. He'd either have to be pretty hi-tech or have a means to tow it. Again, if he's got the tech or tools to boost your car no alarm will stop him.

    In other words, get the clown nose to blink and that will keep the low rent hoodlums (or one of the few who still thinks an alarm is scary) from going after the goods in the car. Other than that, the alarm is just money thrown away.
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    I have been thinking about this too. I have decided to switch from manuals to an automatic in the 325i that I am going to get, but the SMG is only another $250. My two biggest concerns are that I have heard that they can be pretty jerky when used in automatic mode in "around town" or "commuting" traffic; and it seems like something that could be a maintenance headache if I am going to be keeping the car for 6 or 7 years. The technology in a normal auto trans has been refined over a lot of years and a lot of cars; SMG just seems like something that a lot could go wrong with. I think you're more likely to be stranded by something going wrong with your SMG trans than with a standard automatic (when's the last time one of those failed on you?). If these have only been used so far in M3's, that's a pretty limited testing fleet.

      Doug G
  • ksomanksoman Member Posts: 683
    if the theif has the tools or the brains to steal that bmw, he/she deserves it.. literally

    ksso
  • bluegray330bluegray330 Member Posts: 12
    Hmm, I have read someone else mentioning clown nose. What exactly is that thing? Is it the same as the radio alarm indicating light resides on the radio panel?
    Can the clown nose be set by the owner or I have to go to a dealer?
    thanks again for all the info.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    The clown nose is the red bulb under the mirror. In 3 series where the alarm is installed the clown nose will blink. In 3 series without the alarm the clown nose will NOT blink, unless the dealer does a somewhat authorized procedure to the programming of the car. Some dealers will, some won't.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    On a new BMW the service intervals occur about every 15000 miles, in this order: Oil Service-Inspection I-Oil Service-Inspection II. Therefore your first Inspection I will be required at @30000 miles. There are two time related services-the brake fluid change(every two years) and the coolant change(every three years). Your Service/Warranty Manual contains a list of the maintenance performed at each service. Here's a rough cost breakdown:
    Oil Service-Dealer:$75-$200; Indep.:$50-$75
    Inspection I-Dealer:$275-$400; Indep.:$150-$200
    Inspection II-Dealer:$550-$800; Indep.:$400-$600
    Brake Fluid Flush-Dealer:$75-$100; Indep.:$50-$75
    Coolant Flush-Dealer:$125-$200; Indep.:$75-$100
    Note that by "Independent" I mean a good BMW tech-not the mentally impaired chimpanzees you will encounter at places such as Jiffy Lube and the like.
  • iwant330iiwant330i Member Posts: 5
    I just bought my new '03 330i and it's a beauty. Since this is my first beamer, my first car, my first manual transmission, etc., etc., I'd like to know where the best shift points are for each gear. Based on feel, it seems as though the best place to shift is at around the 3000rpm level for normal driving, higher for more aggressive shifting...and maintaining the needle between 2-2500rpm for cruising. Do you concur?
  • hokie4hokie4 Member Posts: 4
    I have just seriously started checking out the BMW 325I for purchasing. I notice several dealer web sites list the cars as South Africa.

    Is there a build quality difference? Should I insist on a car built in Germany?

    Thanks, Hokie
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Member Posts: 6,249
    I'd like to know where the best shift points are for each gear. Based on feel, it seems as though the best place to shift is at around the 3000rpm level for normal driving, higher for more aggressive shifting...and maintaining the needle between 2-2500rpm for cruising. Do you concur?



    It's where you're comfortable. I tend to hold 2nd and 3rd to 5 or 6k quite often. Near redline when i'm playing. On the freeway it all hinges on what I need to do. If traffic slow and bogging at say 40-60 I stay in 3rd as I can pull strongly to 90+ in that gear. If things are smooth but crowded 4th works nicely. 6th is for stretching my legs and just cruising on the open road at 80+.

    But that's just me. strangely on this tank of gas I'm hovering at 25-26 mpg.
  • iwant330iiwant330i Member Posts: 5
    I just bought my new '03 330i and it's a beauty. Since this is my first beamer, my first car, my first manual transmission, etc., etc., I'd like to know where the best shift points are for each gear. Based on feel, it seems as though the best place to shift is at around the 3000rpm level for normal driving, higher for more aggressive shifting...and maintaining the needle between 2-2500rpm for cruising. Do you concur?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Be sure to watch the breakin period of around 1200 miles keeping it below 4500 RPM's I believe.

    Check your manual for specifics.

    -Paul
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Member Posts: 2,698
    You will need a 36 mm socket to open the cover for the oil filter. That's all. Look in the front area of the engine bay - it is black, round, and it says "36 mm 16 Nm" on the cover.
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Member Posts: 2,698
    On the E46, coolant flush is recommended once every 4 years.
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Member Posts: 2,698
    BMWNA's Owners Circle lists everything that is performed as part of Insp I and II. The only difference is air filter as part of Insp II. Difference in cost is ~$200. Air filter costs $14. It's a racket. Frankly, I wonder how many of all those items listed the dealer really performs...
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, I figured I'd be needing that 36mm pretty soon. :)

    I'll be checking to see if I have a wrench that size, and if I don't, I'll be heading to the shop to pick one up.

    I guess it's about time for the air filter and the a/c microfilter. Is the a/c microfilter the filter in the engine up by the wipers under that cover or do I have to get to it from the interior?

    -Paul
  • bluegray330bluegray330 Member Posts: 12
    So far I have seen south Africa and German as building plants. Anyone know if there is another plant BMW ever used to build the first several batch of 330i. The reason I am asking is that the CarFax of my 330i shows an export site of south America and the dealer said that it used to be a production plant and now closed.
    Is that true? If so, any info about the building quality of that plant? thanks,
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Thanks; my E39 still uses the three year schedule so I assumed(a mistake, I know) that the E46 would use the same one.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The 36mm socket is pretty easy to find. I got an inexpensive six point socket at my local auto parts store; it was being sold as some kind of axle nut wrench for one of the Asian FWD appliances.
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Member Posts: 2,698
    Microfilter:

    http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_microfilter_replmt.shtml

    I had mine replaced in the spring at the last Insp I that the dealer did on my car, so I cheaped ot and did not replace it this time around. If you're sensitive to pollen, though, you may want to replace it every time.

    I think you should be able to find a 36 mm socket that suits a 1/2 or 3/8 drive - depending on what you have.
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