Make sure you like the color of the car you are buying. After 6 months if you fall off the bed and hit your head and your taste changes, and you want to to paint your car with a different color, go and get an estimate from the dealer. That will make you like your old color again. That's the cheapest option.
Repainting a near new car is not smart financially. For less money, you could sell it and buy another in a different color each time you change your mind or get bored with your color choice.
I have recently purchased a 2004 330xi 6 weeks ago. The air conditioner seems unable to provide enough cold air to keep us comfortable when the outside temperature is more than 82 degrees Fahrenheit. My wife brought the car to the BMW dealership, 3 weeks ago and she was told to turn on the "Auto" and the air conditioner button. Here in Wisconsin, it has been unusually cooler than usual. We were only able to test this recommendation yesterday and it wasn't helpful even with adjusting the middle wheel with the blue and red dots. Is it right to assume that the 3 series have a weaker air conditioner or is there a real problem?
We also own a 2003 530i which has a strong air conditioner. My kids are always telling me to turn up the settings. Yesterday, the inside temperature was set at 76 degrees with one blue dot, auto off, at a low fan speed. We were chilled and comfortable. Any comments and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.
I currently have a 2002 530i and prior to that I had an E46 328i, which is basically the same car as yours sans a few cc's and the AWD setup. When I switched from the 3er to the 5er, I did not notice any difference in the cooling capabilities of the two cars. My bet is that the A/C unit in the 3-Series is the same exact unit that is in the E39 5-Series. Long story short, I'm saying, "Yup, the A/C in your 330xi is broke."
Until your dealership finds a fix, you might want to try using the "Recirculate Air" button. I have found that on the hottest days I need that button to accelerate the cooling of the interior (especially my 530i which is Sapphire Black with a Black leather interior).
Another little tid-bit; I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the light on the A/C button of some German cars will turn off if there is a charging problem with the coolant. Does the light on your A/C button stay on all of the time, or does it wink out occasionally?
The center console dial controls the temperature of the air coming out. Even if you set the temp at 65 but have it in red, you will get warm air. You probably know all this but my recommendation is to set it to blue max (big blue dots as far as it can go). As a result, you will get cooler air out of the vent. The AC will cut off automatically when the cabin temp setting is reached. I heard a similar complain from a friend of mine and when I checked his settings, he had the cabin temp set at 65 and the dial was just between the blue and red.
All cars need to use this mode to quicken cooling on very hot days. That is what it's there for. Once the car cools down, then you can start drawing in outside air and lowering the fan speed. Why would you ignore the recirc button and endure cooling that takes longer than it needs to? Not using the recirc button on a very hot day is like setting the fan speed to low and then complaining the car is taking too long to cool down.
We have tried putting it on recirculation mode, 3 blue dots on the console dial, moderately high fan speed, temperature set at 59 degrees F, and with the air conditioner button turned on. Our 330xi is steel gray with black leather. We drove to Chicago, Il yesterday and we never got the big chill that we usually get with our Jet Black/grey leather 530i. In the late evening, the outside temperature was about 72 degrees F and we could feel a "cool breeze" from the vents even with the above settings.
Shipo, the green light on the air conditioner button constantly stays on. We will probably bring the car to the dealership next week for a check up.
I think the A/C in my 3 series is weak as well - at least compared to my Toyota and my last Ford product. It does cool the car down, even on 90+ degree days, but the air coming out of the vents never really seems to get that cold. My dealer said my A/C was operating normally. If you car isn't cooling at 82 degrees outside temp, something is definately wrong though.
I disagree. The climate control operation is the most flexible I've ever seen.
Ever like to direct air to the windshield without turning on the compressor. Like to control the flow of air, up, down, horizontally easily. Like to control when your compressor comes on and when it doesn't? I like those features. And they work for me and are more flexible than their Japanese counterparts.
I’m with BMW of North America, LLC. I’m sorry to read about this problem with the sunroof in your 325i. If you and your BMW center want our assistance, please phone us at (800) 831-1117, and mention Reference #200424700380 so that we can help you more efficiently.
I set the temp and the product gets it to that temp quickly and keeps it there. I should not have to spin that inane dial to go from cool to warm air. There's nothing auto about that.
IMHO, the 530i and 330xi are two of the best cars that I have owned and driven. I bought these two mostly for their more than adequate horsepower, responsive steering and handling, and strong brakes. The driver's seat is comfortable with good lateral support. Next time, I will make sure that the AC is in working order.
Try this... Dig in the kitchen for a meat thermometer or an electronic mouth thermometer that will read ambient air tempatures. On all the coldest A/C settings with the engine at a slight rev- about 2300-2500 RPMs, put the thermometer in a vent. It should blow about 34 degrees F. if working correctly. Your local dealer should have the exact operating range.
PS: You can also buy a thermometer specifically designed to do this at a car parts store.
My dealer said 40F. I have a situation in that at times the unit blows inconsistently cold. On the hottest days, I keep the temp at 70F and the car is delightful.
On days where it may not be as warm, keeping the temp at 70F means I feel warm. I usually have to kick up the fan a notch.
To me that would be unacceptable considering most manufacturers could install meat hooks as an option in most vehicles and the freon-free technology has been established for a number of years. It also sounds like other posters state that they have the meathook option in their cars. I wonder what another dealership would say?
It sounds like you have found a happy medium though... I turn the AC of for that choice corner or straight strip fo road anyways...:) All within stated speed limits of course...
Recently purchased an '04 325xi and noticed that one function on the sound system differs between my radio and what's depicted in the radio manual. The manual refers to a PTY function next to the RDS and explains what it does. My radio has a TP function that I can't for the life of me figure out what it does. I also don't know what the "Reg Off" and "Reg On"(attained by holding in the RDS button)refer to. And does anyone else have trouble seeing the radio display in daylight? Any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated.
PTY means Program Type and allows you to select listening to Rock stations and not Country or other genres of music. TP means Traffic Program and when active, your radio/CD listening will be interrupted by any urgent traffic information being broadcasted. However, I don't know any area that is actually broadcasting TP information, so I don't see this as very useful.
Hello Everyone...Just bought a new black/black 04 330i and had a question. Anyone who has one...Do you notice that you have to push the doors pretty hard for them to close? If you apply a medium push, they don't close all of the way. At first, I thought there was a problem with my driver's door...so I tried the other 3 and they all need to be pushed pretty hard to close correctly. This leads me to believe that it is normal. Anyone else run into this situation? Thanks.
The car is built very tightly. What I would try is this. Before getting out of the car leave the drivers window open a few inches. With the window open see what it takes to close the door. Then insert the key into door lock, turning and holding the key to the right until the windows close up.
If with the window up you still feel the force is excessive to close it, bring it back to the dealer.
>Do you notice that you have to push the >doors pretty hard for them to close?
I did notice this when I first got my car and often had to open and reclose the door. Now it never seems to happen, so either the seals compressed a bit and made it easier to close or I just adapted to it and am automatically closing the doors a bit more firmly.
I have a 2001 330i. Bought last November (2003), CPO. In the last 10 months, the Engine Oil light went on three times. First time was about 5-6K miles after the purchase, I checked the oil level, it was low, so added a quarter, the light went off. Then after another 3-4K, it came on again. Added the oil again (to the top level), and the light went off. Now that it has been less than 2k miles after last adding, the light went on again this morning. I have read same messages regarding to adding oil to the engine, but the worst scenario I have read was every 4-5K miles, but in my case, it seems to occur more and more often. Any input? Is this just normal or I should have my car checked? Thanks
I have a 2001 330i. Bought last November (2003), CPO. In the last 10 months, the Engine Oil light went on three times. First time was about 5-6K miles after the purchase, I checked the oil level, it was low, so added a quarter, the light went off. Then after another 3-4K, it came on again. Added the oil again (to the top level), and the light went off. Now that it has been less than 2k miles after last adding, the light went on again this morning. I have read same messages regarding to adding oil to the engine, but the worst scenario I have read was every 4-5K miles, but in my case, it seems to occur more and more often. Any input? Is this just normal or I should have my car checked? Thanks
How does the car handle in snow? Car and Driver had a great article by Csaba Csere in which he says that, in snowy condition, a car with a 50-50 weight distribution would handle just as well as a front wheel drive car with a 60-40 distribution. (http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=27&articl- e_id=8215&page_number=1)I am comparing FWD with RWD-obviously an AWD car would be the best. What do you think?
I'd appreciate responses from other people who have had experience driving in snow.
I drove FWD cars exclusively between 1979 and 1999 while I lived in the Detroit, Chicago and New York metropolitan areas, then switched over to RWD cars which I have driven since in both the NYC area as well as southern New Hampshire (the first year up here we had 114" of snow, easily enough to test out my (then) new tires). Using that as a qualificaiton, I will say that a RWD BMW shod with a good pair of snows (I use the Michelin Arctic-Alpin tires) will not only perform as well as a decent FWD car, it will actually perform better. In the specific areas within the typical adverse weather driving envelope, I would rank the two as follows:
Acceleration off the line: about equal (level road) Acceleration while moving: about equal (level road, assuming some form of traction control on the RWD car) Acceleration up a hill: advantage RWD (unless the FWD car is going up backwards, then it has the advantage) Handling: advantage RWD Braking: advantage RWD
I was trying to take out the front license frame and strip and replace it with the enclosed black molding strip but couldn't. It's almost wasn't long enough. Anyone else encountered this? Any suggestions?
I agree with Shipo, mostly.. A rear-wheel drive with winter tires will certainly handle and brake better than a front-wheel drive with all-seasons.
The one advantage SOME FWDs will have is traction on slippery surfaces. Larger FWDs like Accords, Camrys don't have much of an advantage, but the shorter wheelbase econoboxes have a LOT of weight over the front wheels.
This past winter was my first with RWD and winter tires, and I was generally amazed at the handling of the car, and more than satisfied with traction... If you don't mind swapping out for winter tires each season, you won't have any problem with RWD.
Who me, biased? Surely you were thinking of someone else. ;-)
To be sure since I have started driving RWD cars again (the last RWD car I had prior to my first BMW was a 1970 Dodge Challenger, talk about BAD in the snow!) I have become maybe a little biased. That said, when you look at the 50/50 weight distribution coupled with the very competent skid/slip control system of the late model BMWs, logic suggests that at least in the handling and braking department, they are easily a match for any FWD car in the slippery stuff. Acceleration of course is a different story; FWD cars have all of that weight over the driven wheels, and under very light acceleration, logic once again suggests that they would have the advantage. However, increase the slope and/or increase the rate of acceleration and FWD cars experience a weight transfer to the rear of the car, effectively unloading the driven wheels, and shifting the advantage to a RWD type of configuration.
Then again, there was this diabolical snow covered and very steep road that I encountered in Boyne City Michigan back in the winter of 1982 with my Audi 4000. There was no way my car was going to climb that hill, and if it were not for the allure of the sole occupant (sitting in front of a warm fire) of a certain condo waiting for me at the top, I would certainly have turned around and gone home. Instead, I turned around and backed up that hill as if I was on dry pavement! I couldn't believe the difference. ;-)
I put a full set of Dunlop WinterSports on my e46 for last winter and was surprised at how well the car handled in the snow. I made several trips to VT and drove in some very heavy snow, and once in a blizzard of wet, heavy stuff, and the car felt extremely secure. On a 100 mile stretch of I-91 I passed many vehicles that were in the ditches -- front-drivers, AWDs, trucks -- there was no particular type that was over or under represented. I think what drove most of them off the road was when they tried to switch lanes -- leaving the tracks can cause the half of the car that is now in the thick, slippery stuff to put you into a spin. I was careful to drive slow and steady and when I was forced to switch lanes, I did do verrrry gradually. The car just went where it was pointed without any drama. I think the exceptional balance of this car, coupled with a good set of winter tires, makes it fine for all year use here in the northeast.
I'm in the market for a new 2004 car and am in a time crunch as the 2004s (and my bargaining power) are almost all gone. I'm torn b/twn the TL and the 330i (premium and sport package). I live in Atlanta, so performance in winter weather isn't really all that important. I just want a car that's fun to drive and will last me 6-8 years. Any advice or opinions? Thanks.
Get the 330i and you will be happy. Get the Acura and you will always wish you had purchased the 330 and rationalize your decision by saying that the TL cost less than the 330. For most people in this forum it is a no brainer. 330 with Sport and Premium is not even a fair comparison with the Acura TL. If difference in price is not a big issue get the BMW.
I was also considering the TL as one of my alternatives to the 330i. I settled on the 330i with the premium package and a couple of other options. Take a look at the Acura TL board under Problems & Solutions. This helped make my decision easier to eliminate the TL (though I still think it looks good), not to mention a tranny recall on the Acura. Also look at Car & Driver's review (January) and comparison test (March) where they compared seven $35K manual tranny vehicles inlcluding the TL and 325.
They are both fine cars... I agree with memphis, though.. If you are leaning towards the BMW, then you will probably be sorry you didn't get it... If they are even, and you just can't decide, you won't go wrong with the Acura... I also wouldn't worry about reliability issues, compared to the BMW.. both get plenty of complaints and kudos.
Also, if you get the Acura, it is definitely cheaper, though '04 330i's have a $3K dealer incentive right now.
I have a new 2004 330i. What synthetic oil should I use in between oil changes? The owners manual recommend BMW's, or Mobil's as an alternative. Any recommendations? Also is it "normal" to add oil in between oil changes even if I don't drive aggressive?
Has anyone had the auxilliary connection installed by the dealer for IPOD ? I bought my 325i a month ago and am now considering getting an IPOD. My dealer is quoting me about $150 for the aux installation. Just wanted to check if anyone has had one installed and if there's anything else I need to know about it. Thank you.
Yes, $9.95 to $10.95 per litre sounds about right. The brake system only needs 1 ltr but make suto get 2 ltrs in case you spill some. I think I bought mine from Bavarian last time.
I only had to add a quarter ~ 8-9K miles, which was well before my first oil change. I have 67K miles on my '01 325 with ~ 20 track days ~ 25 autoX events and have never had to top off any oil at all.
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We also own a 2003 530i which has a strong air conditioner. My kids are always telling me to turn up the settings. Yesterday, the inside temperature was set at 76 degrees with one blue dot, auto off, at a low fan speed. We were chilled and comfortable. Any comments and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.
Until your dealership finds a fix, you might want to try using the "Recirculate Air" button. I have found that on the hottest days I need that button to accelerate the cooling of the interior (especially my 530i which is Sapphire Black with a Black leather interior).
Another little tid-bit; I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the light on the A/C button of some German cars will turn off if there is a charging problem with the coolant. Does the light on your A/C button stay on all of the time, or does it wink out occasionally?
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have moved from Red to silver to black.
I think I will settle with a Jet Black.
Safe color.
Hell to maintain...yes, yes.
Why would you ignore the recirc button and endure cooling that takes longer than it needs to?
Not using the recirc button on a very hot day is like setting the fan speed to low and then complaining the car is taking too long to cool down.
Shipo, the green light on the air conditioner button constantly stays on. We will probably bring the car to the dealership next week for a check up.
Thank you for everyone's input.
Ever like to direct air to the windshield without turning on the compressor. Like to control the flow of air, up, down, horizontally easily. Like to control when your compressor comes on and when it doesn't? I like those features. And they work for me and are more flexible than their Japanese counterparts.
Oh and the air is beer cold.
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PS: You can also buy a thermometer specifically designed to do this at a car parts store.
On days where it may not be as warm, keeping the temp at 70F means I feel warm. I usually have to kick up the fan a notch.
It sounds like you have found a happy medium though... I turn the AC of for that choice corner or straight strip fo road anyways...:) All within stated speed limits of course...
ON a separate note for those who didn't know -- if you have a CD playing and you press and hold the RND for a few seconds, it turns into RPT.
If with the window up you still feel the force is excessive to close it, bring it back to the dealer.
>doors pretty hard for them to close?
I did notice this when I first got my car and often had to open and reclose the door. Now it never seems to happen, so either the seals compressed a bit and made it easier to close or I just adapted to it and am automatically closing the doors a bit more firmly.
The AC is so good, that by the time I leave base, I'm already adjusting the temperature warmer so I don't freeze. It works THAT well...
-Paul
On the Super ATE brake fluids, do you recommend a particular vendor online for it? Is 9.95 to 10.95 sound about right per litre?
-Paul
I have read same messages regarding to adding oil to the engine, but the worst scenario I have read was every 4-5K miles, but in my case, it seems to occur more and more often.
Any input? Is this just normal or I should have my car checked?
Thanks
I would take it to a dealer and if it is still under CPO, have them diagnose the problem
-Paul
I have read same messages regarding to adding oil to the engine, but the worst scenario I have read was every 4-5K miles, but in my case, it seems to occur more and more often.
Any input? Is this just normal or I should have my car checked?
Thanks
BTW, I drive in a quite modest way with occasional (once a month or so) going through winding mountain road for fun.
I have less than 5K left for the next inspection. I probably will have dealer check it at that time.
-Henry
How does the car handle in snow? Car and Driver had a great article by Csaba Csere in which he says that, in snowy condition, a car with a 50-50 weight distribution would handle just as well as a front wheel drive car with a 60-40 distribution. (http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=27&articl- e_id=8215&page_number=1)I am comparing FWD with RWD-obviously an AWD car would be the best. What do you think?
I'd appreciate responses from other people who have had experience driving in snow.
Thanks!
Acceleration off the line: about equal (level road)
Acceleration while moving: about equal (level road, assuming some form of traction control on the RWD car)
Acceleration up a hill: advantage RWD (unless the FWD car is going up backwards, then it has the advantage)
Handling: advantage RWD
Braking: advantage RWD
I hope this helps, as always YMMV.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The one advantage SOME FWDs will have is traction on slippery surfaces. Larger FWDs like Accords, Camrys don't have much of an advantage, but the shorter wheelbase econoboxes have a LOT of weight over the front wheels.
This past winter was my first with RWD and winter tires, and I was generally amazed at the handling of the car, and more than satisfied with traction... If you don't mind swapping out for winter tires each season, you won't have any problem with RWD.
regards,
kyfdx
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To be sure since I have started driving RWD cars again (the last RWD car I had prior to my first BMW was a 1970 Dodge Challenger, talk about BAD in the snow!) I have become maybe a little biased. That said, when you look at the 50/50 weight distribution coupled with the very competent skid/slip control system of the late model BMWs, logic suggests that at least in the handling and braking department, they are easily a match for any FWD car in the slippery stuff. Acceleration of course is a different story; FWD cars have all of that weight over the driven wheels, and under very light acceleration, logic once again suggests that they would have the advantage. However, increase the slope and/or increase the rate of acceleration and FWD cars experience a weight transfer to the rear of the car, effectively unloading the driven wheels, and shifting the advantage to a RWD type of configuration.
Then again, there was this diabolical snow covered and very steep road that I encountered in Boyne City Michigan back in the winter of 1982 with my Audi 4000. There was no way my car was going to climb that hill, and if it were not for the allure of the sole occupant (sitting in front of a warm fire) of a certain condo waiting for me at the top, I would certainly have turned around and gone home. Instead, I turned around and backed up that hill as if I was on dry pavement! I couldn't believe the difference. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
bodble2 "Acura TL Owners: Problems & Solutions" Apr 20, 2004 7:54pm!make=Acura&model=TL&ed_makeindex=.ef2192a
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=15&article- - - - - _id=7785
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_- - - - - id=7597
Also, if you get the Acura, it is definitely cheaper, though '04 330i's have a $3K dealer incentive right now.
regards,
kyfdx
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-Paul