BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

erickpl

First of all, my respect to you and what you are trying to do over there. You guys work very hard w/o a lot of appreciation and I just wanted to say thank you.

 

As for which, get the one that YOU want. If you want a lot of power, get the M3, you won't be disappointed. The Ci is a bit tamer and probably a bit cushier compared to the M3. If Dallas roads are anything like they were when I lived there prior to 1998, the softer ride may be a bit nicer and less jarring.

 

If you get a droptop, just consider the Texas heat and sun when picking an interior color. I personally prefer the natural brown (not the sand leather) over anything else.

 

-Paul

sam23

Thanks paul...I really appreciate the comments. Also, I never thought about the color of the interior since I always liked black leather!!! Something to think about for a convertible. By the way, the roads are the same in Dallas as you left them in 1998.

 

Sam

cecilt1

Stupid question but here goes. Does the inside trunk release button only work if you leave the trunk in the unlocked position (key hole in the 12 o'clock position). I keep my trunk locked (trunk key hole in the 3 o'clock position) all the time. If I do this the inside trunk release button does not work. What gives. Will work if I leave it unlocked. This makes no sense to me. Am I missing something here. Why even have this button. Who wants to keep the trunk key hole in the 12 o'clock position so that anyone can just go to your trunk and open it.

shipo

Okay, here it goes, if memory serves, the inside release only works with the lock opening in the vertical position thus keeping valet parking attendants from having access to the contents of your trunk, hence the valet key, which is fatter and will not fit in the lock opening (trunk and glove box only). With the trunk lock in the horizontal position the trunk is locked so that only the main key or the remote will open it. In the vertical position, the trunk is unlocked except when the rest of the car is locked.

 

Best Regards,

Shipo

bmwfrevr

Hi fellow enthusiasts, it has been a while since I wrote but I always enjoy reading your interesting topics, anyway I am in the exciting mode of waiting to drive one of the first E90 and have acquired the ordering guide from my dealer and noticed a couple of things that are affecting my decision to place my order:

1.the ordering guide lists 325i to be powered by 3.0L that makes 215hp and the 330i (255hp) does that mean they both have the same engine with different horse power.

 

2. upgraded 10 speaker stereo system does that mean the standard is 10 speaker!

 

I am trying to be conservative in my order since there are no prices released yet, keeping in mind the price increase in the new 5 at launch. so here is what I am thinking of options:

325i/sparkling graphite/sport pkg./heated seats/logic7 stereo/xenon.

 

the dilema starts with that the 330i comes with logic7/xenon/power seats standard.

 

I really do not need the power seats as I think the only advantage is the memory seat when you have more than one driver (in my case it is only me, wife doesn't drive stick!!!!aha).

is logic7 worth +/-$1000.

what about xenon +/-$800.

 

so by the time I add these options it might be a wise idea to go to 330i.

p.s. 330i with sport pkg has 18 inch wheels rather than 17 inch on 325i errrrrrr.

 

please reply with any comments or thoughts I really respect your opinions.

shipo

I'll make a few comments:

 

1) It seems that the new 2.5 liter mill could not pass the CARB tests while the 3.0 could, as such, BMW is using the same motor in both the 325i and the 330i, with the 330i sporting a higher level of tune.

 

2) I don't think that "Upgraded 10-Speaker Stereo System" means that the base system has 10 speakers; then again, it doesn’t mean that it doesn’t. Errr, if you get my meaning. ;-)

 

3) The 330i has traditionally come with various goodies as standard equipment that are optional on the 325i, it sounds like that tradition is continuing. Regarding the Power Seats, I like them for two reasons;

 

3.1) Given that I drive a manual transmission, I am very particular about where my seat is relative to the clutch engagement point. I have had cars with manual seats where one notch was just a hair too close while the next notch back was a hair too far, and as such, I spent 4 years trying (and never succeeding) to get comfortable. With power seats, you can adjust your seat to that "Perfect" spot. In my case I have three such spots a) typical urban/sub-urban driving, b) long distance freeway cruising, and c) spirited driving on winding roads or on a road circuit.

 

3.2) Once you've found your "Perfect" spot(s), all it takes is a single parking valet/spouse/friend/whom-so-ever to mess it up and then cause you to start all over again. With memory seats, presto, and you have your spot.

 

4) As it is rather difficult (not impossible, just difficult) to upgrade the factory audio system, you might as well get the best sound you can. Yes, I think that the "G" note is well spent.

 

5) I've opted for Xenon lights on both of my last two cars, and unless something better comes along, I'll opt for them on all of my future cars.

 

6) I too have heard that the SP includes 18" wheels; however, I'm also pretty sure that you can still fit properly sized 17" wheels for winter tire use.

 

Best Regards,

Shipo

div2

Based on my experience with E36, E39, and E46 systems, I doubt that the sound system upgrade is worth $1000. As for the E90 system-who knows? I would definitely get the xenons. FWIW, I like the manual seats as well-less complexity and less weight. For the same reason, I wish the sunroof was a delete option across the range.

If the optioned up 325i is within $3K of a similarly equipped 330i I would go with the 330i.

kyfdx

Xenons are always worth it.. I like the power seats for just the reasons shipo mentioned..

 

I hear the Logic 7 is really the best "upgraded" sound that BMW has... I wouldn't think it was worth the money, but I only buy my sound systems stock... So, if I wanted better, that is the way I would go...

 

As far as the new engines... I'll have to wait to drive them.. My new "forecast" is that the 3.0 in the 325i will have substantially more grunt than the 2.5 litre that the rest of the world gets.. regardless of the numbers being put out there...

 

regards,

kyfdx

(tarot card reader)

gordonwd

One thing I really like on my 325i that I didn't think much about when ordering it is the built-in ski bag. I ordered the winter pkg mainly for the h/l washers + fold-down seats. But now I see how much better the ski bag is to use instead of having to drive with the rear seat open to the trunk and your dirty (and maybe dripping) skis flopping around between the front seats. I have some 200mm XC skis that I was not sure would fit the bag, but they do make it and still leave room for my wife's skis and our poles!

 

So if you ski, you should definitely look at the fold-down rear seat (or winter pkg) option. One more thing: once you use it, you will never get that bag folded back in quite as neatly as it originally was. Sort of like refolding a tent in that way!

hippohippo

My warantee is up, and I'm going to have the "Inspection II" done in a couple months. Does anyone know of a good, reputable independent shop?

 

Besides the Inspection II, what else do I have to do? My car is almost 4yrs-old, with 45000 miles on it.

 

Thanks.

shipo

There is a great BMW shop up here in Southern New Hampshire, and depending upon where in the Boston area you are, this might just be the shop to use. The place is called 3D Automotive (I think), and they are located on Rt. 111 in Hudson, NH. If you are interested, PM me and I'll look up the phone number for you.

 

Best Regards,

Shipo

sunilb

Okay, anyone have one for the Bay Area??

 

Also, InspII just looks like (for E46, 2001+):

 

-oil change;

-microfilter change;

-air filter change; and

-a million inspections of various things

 

I've read that even though BMW says not to, that changing the [manual] transmission fluid and differential fluid is a good idea... anyone have any thoughts/experiences with this (ie, yes or no to doing these)?

 

Also, is InspII really worth getting done at the tune of $500-$700, esp if I can take care of the first 3 items myself?

 

Thanks.

mark_325i

Once you fold it back a few times it goes back into its niche with no problem. It is just a bit stiff when brand new (or unused).

bmwfrevr

I appreciate everybody's input and I decided to go to the dealer and really test the stereo in the new 5 series assuming it is going to be the same for the E90 and decide if the Logic7 is worth the extra +/-$1000 versus the confirmed standard 10 speker system.

I am definetely getting the xenons and power seats per your recommendations (mostly).

hey what the heck, I can always deny my order and get the 330i instead when the prices are out since $500 deposit is fully refundable!!

 

thank you again

I will keep you updated.

brave1heart

Mighty Motors in Sommerville. I've had great experience with them. Their owner is the technical advisor for the Boston Chapter. You can be sure that they will not rip you off and that they know what they are doing!! They have 10% discount for CCA members.

ss2u2

Hi folks, Just pick up car after inspI and noticed the following re: brake pad measurements.

at 15k oil service (15913mi), tech noted brake pad thickness as lf/rf 10mm and lr/rr 12mm. On inspI (31714mi),tech noted brake pad thickness as lf/rf 12mm and lr/rr 10mm? Well lets see, one could assume that the inspI tech just transposed the #'s(which suspiously match the #'s of the first tech), but obviously my pads would have worn down in the 15801mi. between these measurements. So my question before I return is, what instrument do I use to measure the brake pads,from what point to what point do I measure and what is BMW's minimum for replacing pads/rotors? TIA for your help...Steve/o2'330cic

brave1heart

You measure the depth of the pads excluding the metal plate that they are seated on. The pad replacement light on the dash comes up when there is 3 mm or less depth left. Judging by the fact that you are getting 15,500+ miles between inspections, your driving is very tame and you probably do not use braking aggressively. Your front pads may well last 50,000 miles at that rate; more for the rears. You can visually estimate the pad depth - just peak between the spokes of your wheels and you will easily find it. The rotors are much tougher to measure. As a rule of thumb, I replace the rotors every second time I replace the pads.

ss2u2

brave1heart thanks! I appreciate the info...and yea I do pick my spots in which to honor my cars ancestry! I'll eyeball my pads and decide if I want to question the inconsistency of the #'s, since the dealer did give me a coolant flush under the maintenance warranty. Steve

brave1heart

Good deal on the coolant flush. Those are recommended every 4 years on E46 cars, so they helped you out here. Maybe they'll try to make up the money on the pad replacement they'll charge you for )

webby1

What pressure do you have in your 330 I ?

Just measured mine and I have ( snows Perelli's )

29 front and 33 in the back....the manual indicates 32 front and 38 in the back but I am not sure if these nbrs are max or recommended ?

Thanks,

Webby

kyfdx

Those are recommended numbers.. I would also consider them the minimum.. They vary according to model, sport/non-sport, etc...

 

For example, on my '03 325i sport, they recommend 30F/35R.. I generally do 32F/35R and like that a little better.

 

regards,

kyfdx

brave1heart

30f/35r ends up with too much understeer. I run 34 all around and like it much better.

webby1

My 330i is sport... I must have lost some psi with weather temp fluctuating from real mild and then cold...will bump it up to 32 and 38 and see how it feels.

Thanks,

Webby

webby1

What model do you have ?

Regards,

Webby

brave1heart

'01 325i SP. All E46 models have understeer dialed in from the factory. Running more pressure in the rears than the fronts only increases understeer more.

 

Air pressure fluctuates with temperature. Figure roughly 1 psi per 10 degrees change Farenheit. So if you last checked your pressure when it was in the 70's, it will have lost roughly 5 psi all around now that the temp is in the 20's in the snowbelt. Pot holes will love your car!!

webby1

Running same pressure on all tires does make sense so why is BMW recommending a 5 to 6 PSI variance from front to rear since the car is 50/50 balanced....is it for safety issues....better to understeer then oversteer ?

Also, running at 34 PSI on all four......doesn't the car oversteer?

Regards,

Webby

brave1heart

They prefer that your car understeers for safety reasons. They believe (probably rightly so) that if an average driver's car starts sliding in a corner, the driver would let off the gas. In a car that oversteers or is somewhat neutral, this might easily lead to a spin. If the car understeers and you just lift off, the car is less likely to spin. Running same pressure all around does not necessarily equate to neutral feel. There are too many other variables to consider - weight distribution, tire size (stagger vs. same size all around), negative camber, etc... At least in my non-staggered '01 325i with nearly perfect weight distribution front to rear and side to side, running same pressure front and rear results in a pretty neutral feel.

kominsky

Someone posted this site over in a Subaru forum...

 

The guy in the red Porsche Turbo was probably thinking "I am SO fast!" until he saw Mr. Stuck catching him as if he wasn't moving. :-)

 

8.5 minute wmv, so it might be painful with dial-up.

 

http://www.dgtalpimp.com/m3_gtr_nurburgring.wmv

shipo

After watching Herr Stuck eat that Porsche, Mrs. Shipo was heard to say, "Hmmm, I can see why people like doing this. Wow, that guy is like a predator."

 

In jest I had to reply, "Sorry Dear, his first name isn't Arnold." ;-)

 
Best Regards,

Shipo

bazooka15

I own a 2004 325i that came with 16" wheels. I wanted to upgrade to 18" wheels and was wondering if it would effect the performance or suspension of the car.

 

Thanks for your help.

div2

What tires are you currently running? My penchant for invoking oversteer whenever possible has corded my Ecsta 712s. I'm thinking about trying the Ecsta MX or the AVS Sport... div jr. is finally old enough to go to the track unsupervised so it looks like I'll be doing some instructing this year.

webby1

Thanks brave 1 heart and kyfdx.

Also, talked to the local BMW dealer and the technician advised me to put 34 front and 41 rear..this on my 17 inch winter tires...this sounds high to me !

I will play with different set ups in the spring when I put on the Pirellis P Nero Zero M&S.

I do not drive the car hard but I want to have the car tracking neutrally and quiet.

Regards,

Webby

shipo

Another justification for winter tires...

 

As if I hadn't already been happy with the fact that I purchased a set of winter wheels and tires for my leased 530i, I've just come up with an even greater cost justification.

  

As my car has just over a month left on its lease, I had it inspected today in preparation for its return to BMW. The inspector tested my summer set of tires and found them to all have more tread depth than the minimum (min=4mm, I had one at 5mm, one at 6mm and two at 7mm), and as such, I won't be charged the $200 per tire (according to the inspector) replacement charge from BMW (I'd be surprised that they'd be that cheap from BMW as they are $191 per tire from TireRack.com plus about $30 per tire for mounting and balancing) at lease turn in. Hmmm, $800 for a new set of summer tires that I didn't have to buy vs. $1,007 for my winter wheel/tire set (including shipping). As if that isn't good enough, my winter tires easily have four or five serviceable seasons of tread on them (they still look new), so I should easily be able to sell them next fall to any E39 540i or 530i driver looking for a deal on a winter set.

  

Best Regards,

Shipo

bmwfrevr

hello again,

I have never owned a BMW with sport package and that is what I am planning to do soon (E90), an idea just hit me yesterday while driving in the famous Detroit metro area roads especially after a snow storm "how is the sport package going to act to the pot holes!?" anybody with experience to share?

on another note what do you guys think of (E90) 325i 6spd. with SP vs 330i/6spd. no SP may be for a difference of $2k!? both have 17" wheels.

 

* I wonder what shipo is leasing next?!

gordonwd

I'm in your area and have a non-sport 325i with 16" wheels and all-seasons, which is doing great through the Detroit winter & roads. IMO, the sport suspension will not make much of a difference compared to your wheels & tire choice. You definitely don't want "summer" tires on your car during the winter. And I don't think you'd want really low-profile tires like what is typically mounted on an 18" rim. Hit one "good" pothole and you are looking at $1300 or so to replace the tire AND the wheel!

 

I am not sure about the E90s, but on the E46 the 325i SP came with 17" performance tires whereas the 330i w/o SP came with 17" all-seasons. That's one reason why I ordered the sport seats in my 325i but not the whole sport package. Not much use for the SP in general in southern Michigan!

shipo

Hmmm, short post, long response. ;-)

 

Having grown up in Oakland County, I'm reasonably familiar with Detroit area roads, pot holes and all, and I'll wager that they ain't got nothin' on some of the NYC pot holes I've had the misfortune to encounter. In fact, back when I had my 1995 Passat GTX, I went through something like 4 or 5 BBS wheels (and even more tires) and a couple of struts due to said NYC pot holes. Having said that, neither of my two BMWs that I've driven in the NYC area (one with the SP, one without) ever suffered a single bent rim or bubbled sidewall.

 

I even have a theory on that. Given that BMW builds their cars to be able to be pushed to substantial limits on European roads, and given that European roads range from the smoothest cobble stones I could ever imagine (I've cycled extensively in Europe, and most Dutch cobble stone roads are smoother than the smoothest of asphalt roads here in the U.S.A.) to cobble stone roads that will eat tires, wheels and suspensions alive (Paris comes to mind, "Ouch, my aching derrière!"), BMW designes their sport packages with extra suspension compliance when compared to their competitors. Where the makers of many "Sports Sedans" simply screw down the standard suspension thereby creating a "Sports Suspension" (at the expense of suspension compliance) BMWs only lose something like 0.5" of compliance when the "SP" option is checked off. Not too shabby. ;-) Long story short, I think that an E90 equipped with SP (and shod with winter tires during the snowy season) will be able to deal with Detroit area roads with relative aplomb.

 

Regarding the 325i SP vs. the 330i non-SP, it's anybody’s guess as to whether BMW will even include the Sport Suspension on the 330i as standard equipment. FWIW, my 1999 328i (non-SP) came with the standard suspension (and wheels and tires) that now exists on the 325i, so there is precedence for the stiffer suspension to be offered only as part of the SP. Assuming for the sake of argument that the 330i does have the up-rated suspension bundled into the base car, I'd still opt for the SP just to get the nicer Steering Wheel, better Seats and far grippier/nicer Wheels and Tires. If cost was an issue, I would opt for the 325i SP as opposed to the 330i non-SP.

 

As for what I'm leasing next; well, the current front runner is a 2006 330i SP with three pedals, Xenons, and the up-rated Audio system. As for the iDrive, Nav, Active Steering, Active Cruise Control and other electronic systems, I'll probably just say "No thank you." Needless to say (as with my 530i), European Delivery will be included in the deal. ;-)

 

Best Regards,

Shipo

brave1heart

That is one absolutely amazing video!! I gad a huge grin on my face for the first half and then my head started nearly spinning. It's like someone hit the 'Turbo' button in a video game. Wondering how fast he is going on that huge straight in the 8-th minute of the video - it looks like he might be pushing 200 mph...

brave1heart

It definitely sounds high for the rears. Rough rule of thumb is psi = car weight/100... As far as understeer/oversteer, the issue is largely academic for most drivers because cars are rarely driven at more than maybe 80-85% of their handling capabilities on the street... You really have to push the car into a corner (safely and build your way up) to see how neutral it feels.

brave1heart

Right now, I have the Dunlop M2 Wintersports )

 

I just ordered 5 Michelin Pilot Sport 2 (235/40/17) from the Tirerack. They are not cheap but are easily the best street tire based on the research that I've done (excluding Azenis, Advans and other "cheater" autocross tires). I am running in the 2005 One Lap of America in May and I had to get the best street tires possible. Speaking of One Lap, I've found videos of all tracks that we'll be running on except for two: Indianapolis Raceway Park (the road course) and Lancaster Motor Speedway. LMS is a short oval and I am not that worried about it but it would be great to have a video of IRP. Do you know of anyone that might have it? I e-mailed the contact person of the Hoosier Chapter but have not seen a response yet. Do you know what other chapters might be running DEs at IRP that might have videos of the road course? Thanks!

kyfdx

One Lap, huh?

 

Now, I'm jealous... that sounds like a great time...

div2

Maybe we can team up for the next Alcan; a new 545xi might just be the hot ticket...

brave1heart

div2, I won't need any convincing at all for the Alcan - just as long as we have a good vehicle. I'll split all the expenses for running in the event. A 545xi would be great. Targa Newfoundland is another one that I'd love to do some day - it's funny how you tend to see the same people like Roy Hopkins in each one of these events after a while )

 

Here is our One Lap website if interested:

 

http://www.ABsolutePuppies.com/

Kirstie_H

Don't forget tonight's member-to-member chat - it's open mic night, so come and discuss whatever's on your mind.

 



 

http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html

 

6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Drop by for live chat with other members. Hope you can join us!

paule

Hmmm, short post, long response. ;-)

 

Or is it long post, short response

 

Aplomb.......I like that......it makes us look edgeecated!

shipo

"...it makes us look edgeecated!"

 

Not me, I was lucky to get my High School Diploma, real lucky! ;-)

 

Best Regards,

Shipo

hgeyer

Hi everyone,

 

If anyone purchased AT Italia Type 5 wheels from Tire Rack (or anyone else, I guess) prior to the winter of 2004-2005, you should know that the manufacturer has cosmetically changed the appearance of the wheel, and the older style is no longer available.

 

The older style has a polished lip, whereas the new style has a painted lip. Now that pothole season is here, you may find yourself with a non-matching replacement wheel, or the need to buy 4 new matching wheels instead of 1, in the event that you find yourself on the losing end of a pothole.

 

I learned this the hard way and now have 4 new wheels and one old one (I found homes for 2 of the three). It's a 16" wheel if anyone's interested.

kominsky

brave - somewhere around 200mph seems like a pretty good guess. a couple of things i noticed after watching the vid a few more times...

does the gtr have some kind of electronic clutch (button) or something similar? I don't see any movement of his left leg while he's running through the gears.

how much do you have to trust other drivers to blow by them at 2X their speed, mid-corner?

the only place the car seems to get at all out of shape is when hitting the concrete patching mid-corner (about 3/4's through the lap).

btw, a couple of month's ago, in an email, i predicted that your wife wouldn't go for the One Lap thing... you are my new hero! :-)

brave1heart

Terry, according to

http://www.bmwworld.com/models/m3_gtr.htm

"Transmission: pulled triple disc carbon fiber clutch; straight cogged six-speed manual transmission with oil/air cooling at rear; single section aluminum steering shaft, step-up differential with viscous differential and mechanical spreader differential and multi-plate differential; steel drive shafts with tripod links" - I guess the clutch travel is very short because I did not notice any leg movement either...

A couple of months ago she would not have agreed so your prediction would have been correct. I'd been on the road for work for 3 1/2 years and I knew that had to change for me to have a shot at it. I found a local job with very limited travel back in December so that helped a lot ;o) I was still waiting to see when would be the best time for me to bring it up when she came up to me one night when I was at the computer and said "You keep going to that One Lap site all the time. Are you gonna do it or what?" I traded all my track events for One Lap this year, although we had a great time at Mont-Tremblant together last year and I may have a shot at it again. I have to bring myself and the car in one piece back from One Lap first ;o)

genie1

It's been a while since I posted - haven't had a desk job for a while I see the diehard fans are still around - hi shipo, brave, ray etc.

I've started thinking about replacing my still sturdy 98 coupe - I'd love to get the SLK (but a 2-seater is not practical just yet.) I may have to seriously consider a sedan as I do carry passengers these days. Realistically I'm considering the 325 and maybe the C230 (but I don't really like it that much), or the X3...any ideas?

kyfdx

If you are open to leasing, they have pretty good deals on the X3 3.0 right now..

On 3-series sedans, there are large dealer cash incentives..