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Comments
Good luck.
I'm with BMW of North America, LLC and read your comments regarding the
> radiator fan and the steering in your car. Thank you for your patience
while
> I investigated these concerns. With regard to the radiator fan, we had a
> few isolated instances with cars equipped with manual transmissions only,
> automatic transmissions were not affected. Our dealers were able to
repair
> any cars that had this problem. With reference to the steering question,
> your car has the old harder road feel and nothing further needs to be
done.
> Thank you for driving a BMW.
>
> William Stuart, National Customer Relations Representative.
My real name is Stacy. When I first signed up with Edmunds I used Jill. My aol e-mail is SuzySparks. I guess I'll answer to all of the above, but I'm really Stacy.
Co-workers and friends have named the car the "silver bullit". I refer to it as "Baby".
Stacy
I like "Baby" better than "silver bullit".
"Dear Mr. Platypus,
I am an employee of BMW of North America, LLC and I received your correspondence regarding your 2001 BMW 330i.
I have added your name to the list of customers to be contacted for the steering equipment level change.
You will be contacted shortly to make the necessary arrangements. We appreciate your patience in the interim."
And my car is a week 14 car (4/01 production), so don't let 'em tell ya that it can't be done!
And to the guy (jason I think) who's looking for a good deal in Dallas, take your business to Temple or to Richard Foard at Moss Motors in Lafayette, LA. They'll treat ya right!
You can go to BMWUSA.com website. Do a dealer search by state. Choose Texas and Louisiana. Print it, and start calling. Have in mind a $$$$ amount over invoice, at which you would be willing to close the deal. When calling, simply say "I am ready to buy a 3XXX with these options, and would like to pay ??? (ie $1200) over invoice. Can you sell me this car for that price?" As you call around, don't get discouraged! Dealerships will laugh at you, think you're crazy, and think you don't know what you're talking about. Just cross them off the list and move on. Eventually you WILL find a dealership that will sell you the vehicle. Be ready / prepared to proceed. If calling far away, (ie El Paso, Louisiana) remember to add in $$$ for transport costs, or a 1-way plane ticket. The dealership in El Paso agreed to sell for $1000 over, but they wanted $500 to ship it to Houston. Plus, I don't have time in my schedule for a 12 hour drive to bring it home. Also, big city dealerships add on the MACO/DAG advertising fee which adds from $400 - $700 to the final price. "Small town" dealerships don't add this fee. The dealership will tell you if they add it or not.
I have rambled long enough. I hope a morsel of this helps in your endeavor. I ended up buying from Moss Motors in Lafayette, LA. Richard Foard is great to deal with, and a couple of other posters have bought from him as a result of my experience. Again, sorry for the long winded post. I will crawl back under my rock now. Good luck!
Knowing that I'm on the "list" is enough for now...
Does the traction/stability control compensate for the fact that it's not Front wheel drive.
thanks in advance
Here is the price breakdown.
car - $30750
advertising fee - $310
metallic paint - $405
sports package - $1020
in-dash DC - $170
xenon - $425
destination - $645
------------------------
total - $33725
mats - $100
alarms - $425
------------------------
total - $34250
My sale price is $35175, out the door price is $38368.5. All these numbers have been taxed to me by my dealer before I gave him $1000 deposit using my credit card over the phone.
How did I do it? I used the method outlined in the Personal Finance section of the Motley Fool web site (www.fool.com). Here is the short version. First, find all the dealers that are within, say, 100 miles radius. Get their fleet managers' name and ax number. ax to each of them stating that you will buy right now and are requesting bids from your local dealers and the exact options that you want with your car. Wait for the axes to come in. Call the dealer with the 2nd lowest bid and ask him to beat your lowest bid by some amount. If he agrees, you get your deal. If not, the dealer with the lowest bid wins your business.
That's how I get my $925 over invoice deal. Now only if I don't have to wait for my car!!! ;-)
jnscheong
P.S. The fax response wasn't overwhelming, 5 out of 26 to be exact. One way to get a better response may be to call ahead to the fleet manager before your fax. Just a thought.
couple of things...
the 15,000 mile oil change... its ok... the oil pan has these large magnets within it to catch metal shards,nuts, etc... change it yourself and you'll see these shavings attached to the bottom
the steering is a little light... especially at 120mph, but since i don't commute on the autobahn and have to settle on the nj turnpike, the steering is acceptable at 85 mph... so i'll live
anyone else have bimmeritis?... constantly checking this board, doing searches on profusion and vivisimo for reviews, cheering at all the favorable ones and turning your nose up at all the unfavorable ones...
my wife thinks i'm obsessed... i think i am too
btw... another symptom of bimmeritis... wondering if i got the best price... but i've gotten over that now... once you drive the car for about a month or so... you realize that even paying msrp is worth the perfect balance of a bimmer...
see you on the highway... and don't forget to flash your xenons!
You can start checking your car's status as soon as you get a production and/or VIN number. Just keep in mind that the website is not as up-to-date as most people would like it to be and calling BMWNA (or asking Gurumike here) is the most reliable way to track your car.
any idea what specific features make a significant difference to the Insurance company (in terms of discount)when finalizing a contract for the 325er?
veekay1
to ski every winter weekend, rarely in blizzards.
If I get the sport pkg on rwd for the suspension, can I put all seasons on those wheels
or snow tires and get winter handling? Also, am I
the only one that's irritated that to get the
front center armrest you have to buy the premium
package or pay $450! I'm considering making it a deal
breaker or negotiating point.
go with the AWD!! Its real sticky!! and you dont have to worry about changing tires.
Especially if you ski; its good even in rain; i took the test drive during rain and couldnt tell the difference in road feel compared to dry pavement!
veekay1
brave1heart: thanks for insurance info. so you think getting the alarm is a no-brainer, right? Can I get it from circlebmw and ask my dealer to install it? (i believe its a diff of about $150)
veekay1
Actually, my boyfriend does not like "baby". He is a truck man; prefers Dodge's and could care less about BMW. He ribs me all the time about the car. I know when he says "Baby" he is referring to me and not the "overpriced german" automobile I am in love with. ;o)
Stacy
Platypus -- RE: Steering, door jam said 4/01. Yes!!! I just snuck in there. Thanks for the info.
Looks as though folks are getting better deals than that now. I'm not bothered. I'm very happy with the deal I cut.
True to his word, BUD ARMSTRONG at BMW of Macon hooked me up. If anyone is looking to purchase in the Atlanta area (Birmingham or Jacksonville for that matter), I highly recommend him.
For those with cars on order: Hang in there people, it's worth the wait.
V
http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/features/1999/May/199905_feature_whatp.xml
Platypus -- RE: Steering, door jam said 4/01. Yes!!! I just snuck in there. Thanks for the info.
Looks as though folks are getting better deals than that now. I'm not bothered. I'm very happy with the deal I cut.
True to his word, BUD ARMSTRONG at BMW of Macon hooked me up. If anyone is looking to purchase in the Atlanta area (Birmingham or Jacksonville for that matter), I highly recommend him.
For those with cars on order: Hang in there people, it's worth the wait.
V
http://www.bmwgroup.com/I/index2.shtml?s80&0_0_wow_bmwgroup_om/7_innovation/7_2_aid/aid_home.shtml&
Click on Topics' in the left margin and look for the section on winter driving. If you live in the snow belt, get snow tires, all seasons by their very nature are pretty much useless for most conditions, (unless you go mud plugging in the deep South).
http://www.bmwgroup.com/I/index2.shtml?s80&0_0_wow_bmwgroup_om/7_innovation/7_2_aid/aid_home.shtml&
Click on Topics' in the left margin and look for the section on winter driving. If you live in the snow belt, get snow tires, all seasons by their very nature are pretty much useless for most conditions, (unless you go mud plugging in the deep South).
However, there is one other troubling thing in your transaction. You gave a figure of $35,175 with a drive out of $38,368.50. $38,368.50 is a bit over 9% over $35,175. What's that all about? In my state, Texas, tax is 6.25% -- maybe it's higher in your state.
I would not tell a dealer I will pay $xxxx over invoice. Instead, making sure we are agreed on what car we are talking about (i.e., what options), I would get the invoice from Edmunds/KBB, add the $xxxx myself, and say "I will pay $yyyyy for this car plus $zzzz for TT&L, which means driveout will be $aaaaaa, right?". I don't see how they can cheat you that way, although I'm sure they'll try to find a way.
Braveheart1 - bear with me here -- it's been 10 years since I've bought a new car -- but this $50 title fee you paid -- wasn't that the documentation fee? I mean, does the county charge $50 for registration of the title? I'm still a little confused about this part of the transaction. Also, these mats that some people are getting thrown in for free -- what is the actual cost if you have to buy them yourself?
$1500-$2000 over invoice on a 2001 325 xi? If so,
would appreciate knowing dealer name and sales
contact. Thanks.