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Comments
1) I was considering only the TL, CL-S (no TL-S at the time) and IS300 at the time I purchased the 330i. Notice that the 330i is BLATANTLY MISSING from that short list. What does that tell you about my test drive experience? See post #2182 (or thereabouts) for my impressions...
2) The lease deal I sawe posted earlier is a reasonable one -- similar to my terms within a few $$$, options, etc. See lobs' coments regarding multiple security deposits -- it can reduce your MF in a low-risk way, reducing your monthly payments and inducing a helluva return on investment.
3) I would follow Brave's advice and use the market value as negotiating leverage, especially since you are able to use the lease expense as a write-off. I bought a GS-R at the end of lease in 1998 and sold it at a nice profit, but the bureaucratic red tape (local BMV) and logistical nightmares (advertising, scheduling test drives, etc.) requiring my time and effort effectively negated that profit. Unless you have a COMMITTED buyer in mind (e.g., family or friend), I would recommend against it. Of course, 3 or 4 G's is a decent chunk of change, so it's really a matter of what you are willing to put up with in terms of yopur effort/patience...
OK, maybe these responses were NOT exactly quick, but hey...
60 days or when manifest shows car on the
water...whichever comes first?
2. I mentioned the salesman contact on the
assumption it's too late to go around him
to the salesmanager directly.
3. The option comment refers to the assumption
that a dealer may be less inclined to use
an allocation slot on an unloaded vehicle.
That's also why I wanted some reasonable
deadline.
When I spoke with a local salesman, he made it seem that 325/330 's roll off the lot at MSRP-- take it or leave it...
The only way to get a reasonable deadline is if you get a dealer's allocation. If they are selling you a car that has not been allocated yet, it may take much longer.
It seems that the best plan would be to negotiate a deal with my local BMW dealer to split the profit and skip the taxes by rolling my share into a new leased 330i.
Keeping my car is certainly a very good option as well. Prior to the 328i I turned in a 1995 Passat GLX (on the 15K per year lease plan) with well over 80K miles, OOPS! Fortunately the ODO broke shortly before the turn in (3rd time that happened - first two replaced under warranty) and VW refused to replace it, even though (based upon the posts here on Edmunds) this was a known problem with the 1995-1996 vintage Passats. I had a local shop replace the instrument cluster for about $400 and feigned forgetfulness regarding current mileage (my Passat was officially turned in with 18.3 miles!). Anyway, I am now only driving about 11K miles per year and I still have a 15K lease plan. The result is that the buyout for my 328i will be WAY below its market value. That MAY mean that when a new lease is calculated, the monthly MAY go down significantly.
I will keep ya'll posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I know this is a tough one, but you guys have a broad range of info and experience.
Thanks.
Marc
1. Switch hands
2. If Option 1 fails, go with Victoria Secret brochures - NO shoulder injuries have ever been reported from those.
lol.................gotta go outside take a break, my colleagues think i'm crazy, probably justifiably so...
Marc, I'm sorry if this is is a real issue for you; I assumed you were making it up getz-style and I'd like to apologize if I was not sensitive. Sorry...
Best Regards,
Shipo
The links are too long in include here, so e-mail me at shipo@yahoo.com and I will send them to you.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
You can run a search for CPO 3 series at BMW's website. A Southern California search just produced 38 different 2000 models and even 4 2001's.
You should find that the price listed is much more negotiable than a new 3.
best of luck
DL
-Getz
P.S.
Our 99 323i has hade virtually no problems aside from both headlights burning out within a week of one another. I know the 323 is touted as being gutless, but it feels everybit as quick as our 00' Accord Coupe with 200hp. The top end of the BMW is amazing, you will be cruising at 90 and the little 2.5l I6 will be spinning around 3k rpm just as quite as mom's old sewing machine. About the [non-permissible content removed] debate that I missed out on, as a Jew I can honestly say that I had very little reservations about buying German. It would be the proverbial cutting off your nose to spite your face all over again. I don't hold any grudges against the egyptians for using my long deceased relatives to build pyramids either. I think all that can be gained from those atrocities is the knowledge of how to keep them from ever happening again.
Can someone give me identifications guidelines? Was there a change in wheels from 323/328 and 325/330 and is there a difference between 323 and 328 and between 325 and 330? It all seems rather confusing at this point.
I guess I could go to a dealership and take a look but at this point I prefer to avoid those places.
Just let me know how things are going--give me details, details, details. The more the better.
M3 Frank
As far as mods, I am so happy with the car that I gave this second priority. Maybe if someone whips my [non-permissible content removed] I'll give it a higher priority but chances of that happening are slim, especially the way the car has broken in.
brave1heart: Just a clarification to your post on the wheels. The 330 SP wheels are not the same as those on the M3. 330 SP wheels are 17" and have five primary extensions from the center. Each primary extension has two separate spokes, hence the term "double-spoke." The wheels also have the M logo on them, hence the description "M double-spoke." These are very sporty looking wheels, but are still in excellent taste - aggressive yet refined. The M3 wheels are 18" and have ten primary extensions from the center. Each extension also has two separate spokes. These wheels are also very sporty, and IMHO, more busy looking than the 330 SP wheels.
postoak: The 325 SP wheels (coupe and sedan) are the same as those on the 328 SP sedan - 7-spoke. The 328 SP coupe has the same wheels as the 330 SP (coupe and sedan) - M double-spoke. The standard 330 sedan wheels are a radial design (lots of spokes). The standard 328 sedan wheels are a mesh design (cross-spoke).
frank - The 4-th year was priced at $400 at my dealer's and the salesperson told me that it basically included an oil change and probably it wasn't worth it. Even if it included more, I'd rather pay for what I need when I need it. 3 years is a long time and a number of things could happen that would make the 4-th year a total waste of money, IMO
Hope this helps!
But still one dumb question still lingers in my mind. If the strip is snapped on to the bumper holes as alpine says, then how could the plastic strip be moved in or out to get the ends flush together?
The problem i saw was that one of the plastic end was not sitting flush in when meeting the center plastic END. You see what i am trying to say? The right plastic end was lift a bit, and when i tried pushing it back it, pops back our 60 seconds later? Is this a quick fix like replacing it. If so, do dealer usually keep these cheap platic on stock - or do i have to live with the problem for a week?
Yes, after Braveheart1's mention of BMWNA, I've been digging around in there (wish the server were faster!) and am gradually seeing all the combinations. I will be spending hours over there!
Alpine325i - you are the man!! The only problem is relating these wheel names to models. I know from BH1 that the 325i SP must be the Star Spoke 44. Which wheel is on the 325i non-SP?
Style 44 - 325i SP and 325ci sport (17 ")
Style 45 - 325i (16")
Although 44 and 45 are very similar, you will notice the slight indentation right where the spokes meet the rim. I like the effect they create that way. The 44's resemble the Avus style wheels on the Audi S4, which I really like for their clean, elegant, yet sporty design.
Again, it's a 330xi - AWD, PP, CWP, In-Dash, Steel Gray Metallic/Gray, bound for VOB BMW in Rockville, MD.