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Comments
Yep, the non-key wheel locks are a must for these wheels. I think the wheels retail for $400 each and the tires are $150 wholesale/$250 retail, so you are looking at 2-2.5 grand just for the wheels and tires. I'd be very happy to see an unattended 325i SP w/o wheel locks if I were a thief.
I also like the tilt sensor on the BMW alarm - makes stealing AND towing a lot more difficult. It's handy when I can't find a parking spot on the street and park illegally in front of our apartment building for half an hour
Thanks
The rev limiter will be different for the 325 and 330 because of the difference in displacement. The real interesting part that I had not thought about (this quoted by a couple of racing fans on bimmer.org) is that the rev limiter will vary for different gears. It would be highest in first and lowest in 5-th. I'm guessing it may be as high as 6,500 in first and probably only 6,000 or a tad over in 5-th. One of the racing fans mentioned that he routinely pushes it up to 6,750-6,800 RPMs but that's with Dinan's Stage 2 software chip upgrade, which claims to be expanding the revs by 240 across all ranges.
Anyone that can answer this is my new HERO. If we don't get an answer, I guess I'll have to be own hero and try it out myself as soon as the break-in is over. That torque and HP around 6,000 RPMs are so sweet... Considering how fast the RPMs climb in the 325, I'd definitely like to know the limits of my car so I can squeeze all the juice out of it.
- How much over Euro invoice is reasonable? Could those who have recently done Munich pick-ups please respond? - What is the average time to receive the car in the US after the drop-off in Europe?
- How does one handle the trade-in situation? - I'll make a deposit now to pick up a car in July and then receive it in August/Sept (if I'm lucky)
Thanks in advance.
Anyone using this product? It is available from Bavarian Auto sport for $240 (hood, mirrors, bumper). If anyone has thoughts on this thing, please share them. When I first read the posts, I was skeptical, but after seeing it in the catalog, I am tempted to try it out!?
Everyone pulled through for me with the "Cancelling my order because of Anne Frank" post, so hopefully I will get some good info on this. Thanks in advance. (holy cow, another on-status post!)
Also, I wonder if the rev limiter is different from the engine's official redline. For example, the limiter may retard ignition at 6,500rpm in first, even though the official redline is 6,400rpm. I believe the two terms are not necessarily interchangeable.
I know we are at the brink of scrutinizing every minutia associated with these cars, but isn't it fun? What I'd give to be an engineer at BMW...
- How much over Euro invoice is reasonable? Could those who have recently done Munich pick-ups please respond? - What is the average time to receive the car in the US after the drop-off in Europe?
- How does one handle the trade-in situation? - I'll make a deposit now to pick up a car in July and then receive it in August/Sept (if I'm lucky)
Thanks in advance.
Man, wouldn't it be so much fun to be a test engineer at BMW? "No, nein, nein, the M5 got it up to only 7,000, it's the M3 you're thinking about at 7,200. OK, let's do it again and take better notes this time. I know it's hard at 170 mph but damn it, that's what you're getting paid for...What, you want to try it with the invisible bra on? Claudia, kommen zie hier, bitte..."
As for my complaints, they are few. First, the auto climate sucks! It constantly is switching fan speeds, and never maintains the right temp. The HK audio system lacks tone and definition. The music never really comes alive, and the highs sound flat at best. The BOSE in my Acura actually sounds much better(That system is still not great mind you). Also, I have a strange rattle emitting from the rear of the car. It was slight, but irritating.
All in all, it was an awesome road car(much better than the GS300 that is replaced). I look forward to truly making comparisons with my TL-S as soon as I get some more time behind the wheel of the Acura. The problem, however, is that my wife can't pry the keys to HER new car out of MY hands!!!!
Regards.....
Platypus did a wonderful write up on his recent ED experience and I remember his deal very well:
It was $1400 over invoice PLUS he had to pay a dealer in his state $250 to accept the car from the dealer in Maryland who gave him that deal. "Invoice" here means ED invoice which is about $1600 less than US invoice. You can negotiate - there is no fixed price.
I've been taking note of helpful ED posts, see: #710, #2424, #2425, #2726, #2766, and #3484.
Oh, and as far as a trade-in goes, I don't think you can do it -- that is, you can't keep your car until your new BMW gets back to the U.S. -- correct me if I'm wrong, somebody.
Take Care
When are you planning to pick up your wheels?
When are you going?
When are you planning to pick up your wheels?
Well, I'm biased, I would like you to get the BMW and post a great account of your trip like Platypus did. But, to be honest, I've gotten the impression lately that car engines (except for GM engines) seem to be lasting 200,000+ miles these days. I've got 158,000 on my Miata and it runs as good as new -- and it's a little 4 banger.
getz-- your post was insightfull, but i have rested it for 3 and 4 week periods without much effect. it just gets me depressed
now my wife needs to visit the tire store because one honda tire has 2 lumps in the sidewall, very odd, any ideas?
do you think that the activity on this board has caused the slowdown in the economy?
4-th question top to bottom. If anyone knows why the HP rating is 192 HP instead of the official 184, please let us know.
....Fry.....Fry.....
Yes, I haven't forgotten about finding that elusive redline answer. I will. I still say it's closer to 65-66 than 62, though.
I am joining the 6,400-6,600 camp for a couple of reason. That racing guy that I had quoted seemed knowledgeable. Since he said his Dinan Stage 2 software allows him to push the car to 6,750-6,800 RPMs and since Dinan says on their web site that Stage 1 and 2 expand the RPM range by 240 RPMs, I am now guesstimating the stock limiter to be around 6,500 or a little higher but likely within Guru's estimate of 65-66. Another reason is that on most other 6-cyl engines, it is around 6,200 RPMs. The 3-series' engines are higher performance than most other 6-cyl engines, they have longer bore and stroke and they should be able to handle at least 6,200 RPMs easily. At any rate, BMW's official redline of 6,000 RPMs is very conservative.
I have the BMW Business CD with HK upgrade in 330xi.
Seems like MB is ahead of BMW in the ball-holding contest at least
I had always been raised around American autos, namely Jeeps. What I experienced with the Volvo changed me forever. We replaced the Volvo with a 4-cyl. Jetta that has been a hoot and still drives great with 85,000 miles.
I have been smitten with the European sedan bug ever since, even convincing my mother (a Honda diehard), to replace her '89 Accord with a '00 Passat (she LOVES the car & the turbo).
That leaves me here, lurking in the closest thing to paradise that I've found on the web waiting, Pavlovian style, till next summer when we will hopefully travel to Munich to pick up a 3er.
thanks all for the great, informative, inspiring posts
b.
p.s.- oh yeah, the Volvo enginge should run quite a while longer. :-)
Another question - When I get on my drivway it has two inch curb my steering moves when I get on this curve, is this normal my other cars (Diamante) does not show it.
thanks for input.
As for the seat memory buttons, it's a safety feature. Before the car is started, simply pushing and releasing the numbered buttons will send the seat to the desired position. Once the engine is started, however, you must press and hold the numbered button until the final position is reached. This is to prevent, say, a taller driver from accidentally hitting a shorter driver's memory button while driving -- you can imagine the safety issues this may create!
As for engine longevity, in my experience, it's not typically the engine that goes first, it's everything AROUND the engine. Case in point: when I traded my 1992 Camry with 165k miles on it for Gretl, the 3.0l V6 still felt brand new -- no doubt could easily double its life without a hiccup. But some of the engine's surroundings -- radiator, body hardware, suspension components, for example -- were not built with the same usable life as the engine, and it was beginning to show. I theorize that in modern cars (post-1990 or so), the engine will rarely be the limiting reagent in terms of the car's usable life.
When you say, "When I start my car - the air automatically turns on. Is that just a fan blowing in outside air or is it actually the airconditioner??", my guess is that you are wondering why the fan goes to full power for a while after starting the car. If that is what you are asking, then here is your answer:
The temperature sensor of the car has decided that it is most likely hot inside your car and it is going to do everything in its power to cool the car down to your preset temperature. However, if the AC button is not lit, the only thing the system can do is blow outside air into the car in a (in the case of a hot day) vain attempt to reach your preset. As the interior of your car cools, you will notice on the display that the fan speed will gradually slow down as it gets closer to its target temperature. Opening windows and the roof (if so equipped) and/or turning on the AC will accelerate this process.
The memory settings for the power seats are operated by pressing AND holding the desired button until the seat has reached the "Saved" position.
Best Regards,
Shipo