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Lexus ES 300/ES 330
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I drive a 97 ES300 (i know it's old but i love it) and after coming out of the carwash the other day, my trac off light came on and i can't seem to turn it off. According to the manual, if the light is flashing then there's a problem with the traction control but it isn't flashing. it just stays on.
I've tried the trac control button below the steering wheel but the light still stays on.
Can anyone offer any suggestions?
Right now I have a Britax roundabout behind th epassenger seat and a Britax booster star riser comfy in the center. The Regent is 3 more inches than the roundabout. (21 inches wide)
Has anyone installed this seat in any position and still were able to access the other 2 seatbelts?
(The regent used to be called super elite or Husky)
Thank-you,
karen
You may want to check your owner manual. With my '06 ES330, by pressing the unlock button on the key ring and holding it for 3 seconds, it will lower all four windows and open the sunroof at the same time. This feature helps those of us that live in areas with warm weather and lots of sunshine. If you don't like this feature, it can be turned off by the dealer. Good luck
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/43786/article.html
How often should you do this? A good rule of thumb is once or twice a year, or roughly once every 12,000 miles.
Changing the Air Filter
If nothing else, learn how to change your own air filter. It's quick and easy and saves you money.
How so? Well, think about it: When was the last time you went to the Quick Lube-n-Tune place and had the mechanic hit you up with, "Hey Bud, you need a new air filter." After which you nod and watch as he adds it to the invoice. How much? $7.99? $9.99? $12.99? Heck, we've even seen $14.99.
There's an old joke about the creation of the universe with the punch line, "Well, somebody had to pay retail." Maybe so. But not necessarily you.
One of our jobs here at Edmunds.com is to empower you. Don't let them stick it to you. Learn to say no -- there's no law against it. Just say, "I'll pass for now," or, "Thanks, I'll look into it," and go home after the oil change and perform this procedure yourself -- if, in fact, it really needs to be done.
First, park your car in the shade and pop the hood. Prop it up so it doesn't bang you in the head, then let the engine cool for a few minutes.
While it's cooling, go get your tools. You'll need very few for this procedure -- you can probably do it with a butter knife. If handy, though, grab two medium-sized screwdrivers, one standard and one Phillips, and head back to the car.
The air filter is typically enclosed in a black plastic casing near the center-top of the engine (sometimes, especially in larger vehicles, it will be off to the side). It should be the largest non-metal assembly you see, about the size of a breadbox. Find it? Good. Now, open it.
How? Well, most of them are held together by a couple of large metal clips on the side. Slide the butter knife or flat-headed screwdriver between the casing and the clip and pry the casing open. Occasionally you'll find one held together with several long screws, in which case you'll have to unscrew it to get at the filter. (Many of the older cars use a cylinder air cleaner held inside a circular black case. It's like a giant doughnut that sits at the direct top-center of the engine.)
Anyway, crack it open. You'll find the air filter inside. It's usually bright yellow or orange or red, the better to see the collected dirt.
Pull it out. It's typically flat, elongated, usually about a foot long by six inches wide by two inches high. It's made of paper filament, with rubber edges along the bottom to seal it against the casing.
Now, let's check it for cleanliness. Hold it up. Bend it back, so the paper ridges of the filter flutter like the pages of a book, and look inside the crevices. Do you see a lot of accumulated dirt and grime? Now hold it at arms length and look at it straight on. Is the orange or yellow paper mostly dirty in the center? If so, let's replace it. No big deal -- the replacement only costs about five bucks. Remember that $14.99 price at the Quik-Lube place? Here's where you get even.
Close up the casing. Then put the old air filter in a plastic grocery bag. You're going to want to bring it with you, to compare old with new and make sure you get the right replacement, so toss it in the car and go clean up.
By the way, it's okay to drive a car short distances without an air filter (something you can't do with a missing fuel filter).
Here's what you need to buy at the auto parts store:
new air filter
new fuel filter
new gasket(s) for the fuel filter -- they normally come with, but ask
When you return, go ahead and install the new air filter. Seal it up and you're done.
Fuel Filter Replacement
This is a little more problematic procedure, since finding the thing can be half the battle. It's typically located near the top-center of the engine, close to the air filter, although sometimes, with more modern cars, it's actually built into the fuel tank and is a job more suited to your mechanic.
First, if you value your life, extinguish any smoking materials while doing this procedure.
Second, for better access, remove any oversized, plastic coverings from the top of the engine. They usually come off with a large, flat-head screwdriver.
Now search for the fuel line, which comes from the rear of the car. It's about the same diameter as a thick finger, and will be soft and pliant, not a hard metal shaft. It will come into the fuel filter from the rear of the vehicle.
Find it? Okay, now grab a couple of # 2 pencils. You'll also need several different sized screwdrivers, both flat-head and Phillips, and a small ratchet set.
Here's what you're going to do. When you work the fuel line free of the filter, you're going to jam the pencil into the free end to keep gasoline from spilling all over the engine (and yourself).
The fuel line will normally be secured to the fuel filter with a little clamp. Work it off with a screwdriver -- usually a Phillips -- and stop-gap it with the pencil. (Sometimes you'll need a larger diameter object than a pencil. You'll have to be resourceful here, since we don't know what you have lying around in your junk drawer at home. One of those first-grader primer pencils is perfect.)
After you've plugged the fuel line, you can set to work removing the fuel filter. It's normally secured to the engine with a couple small bolts. Find the right-sized socket and remove the filter. It will have a hose coming off the other end (this goes to the engine), so remove this one the same way you did the other ones, and plug it with the other pencil.
Compare the new filter with the old filter, and make sure you position it in the same way, so that the fuel is flowing in the right way. Sometimes there's an arrow on the filter showing you which direction the fuel flows.
Put the assembly together in reverse of the way you took it apart. Before you do, though, take a quick look at the new filter.
You'll note that there two metal (or plastic) shafts coming off the filter where the hoses attach. They have little nubs or ridges near the ends. Make sure to slide the rubberized lines onto the filter as far past the nubs as you can get them.
Also, pay special attention to the clamps on either end of the filter. Position them between the nubs and the body of the filter. Then get them snugged down good and tight (but not so tight as to strip the screw), to prevent leakage.
One last thing. If the hoses are getting brittle and frayed, make a mental note to buy some new hoses next time you change your filter. If they're really bad, replace them now.
After you have everything reassembled and secure, run the engine for a few minutes. Inspect the hoses and connections to make sure no fuel is
They did wash the car and replace the cabin filter
The new one does not smell like an electrical fire.
And lastly, my insurance co. says it's a coach,????
Oil,Lube
Wiper blades
rotate and balance tires
check and clean belts,brakes,etc.
Car Wash $495
Oil and oil filter change
rotate tires
check brakes
inspect shaft boots, ball joints, brake lines, coolant level, exhaust pipes, rack and pinion assembly, and steering linkage and boots. My book says there are a couple other things that need checking but only if the vehicle is primarily operated in desert, on dirt roads or while towing.
Your vehicle shouldn't need wiper blades or cabin filter at this point unless they are in bad shape from extraordinary use. You could save some money by replacing those items yourself if you wished. I hope this has helped.
the one they used had an electrical smell when
the climate control was turned on. (also reported
by other owners on the board). Now there is no sign
of any spell. Took her out on the parkway this
weekend and she is running smooth and quiet.
Thanks,
bholt
and that there was a product that can help remove some
of the clouding. Symptons of clouding were low/dim lights.
You could try searching on the web for the product
It is a black two-position rocker switch with what looks like three horizontal squiggles on it in white.
This isn't the four-position switch for the variable suspension.
What is it?
(I forgot to ask the sales rep.)
Thanks!
It has two "switches" next to the shifter. One is the control switch for the "electronic modulated suspension". It is a 4-position switch with "SPORT" labeled at the top and "COMFORT" at the bottom. The other switch is spring-loaded and it is the rear electric sunshade switch.
Does the rear electric sunshade really work?
Is the variable suspension worth having or does it just add complexity to the car?
Thanks
Just my opinion for what it is worth.....
Almost always the owner's manual is pretty close when it comes to the recommended maintenance items. However 30k miles might be a bit much for an air filter. I usually change mine at 15k. You can buy them yourself(Fram). I do not have any experience with the cabin air filter as of yet. However it depends on the driving conditions that you are in. Some people drive on gravel roads and/or are in dusty/dirty environments. That certainly will make a difference.
I don't have an answer on tire balancing either. I have not done mine yet and have not thought about when I will do it. You could talk to a good tire shop and see what they recommend about when to re-balance them.
By the way, what kind of mpg are you getting? I got 27.4 actual on my last tank of mostly highway driving.
Also, it looks as if the 2000-01 tail lights (complete tail lights) will fit my 1999. Is this possible? What about the headlights?
Thanks to anyone who can help.
700 VDC already available for a variable frequency AC power source for a nice compact 3 HP AC motor to drive the centrifical Supercharger.
Virtually no power comsumption from the batteries until WOT or near WOT and then enough GO to make it POWERFULL enough for a Lexus.
I write because I have a question about an offer made on an ES330. A dealer has emailed me about a 2006 ES330 Black Diamond with NAV for 32,880. Does that seem like a good price? The car has about 4,300 miles on it. Sounds good to me- but I want to be sure. Any input would be helpful. Thanks