Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Lexus ES 300/ES 330



  • s852s852 Posts: 1,051
    Maybe that will be the next ES300. People cringed when they first saw the SC replacement, but they got over it and now Lexus can't build them fast enough.
    The weird headlights does seems to match the looks of the latest Lexuses and it looks more like an ES300 than the Previs drawings. I do think the Previs styling is much less offensive though.
  • lievliev Posts: 93
    Hi mafitch, sddlw, enigmaone,

    Thanks for the advice given from each of you. I just found out that I can use a referral service call MVCP. The price I'm given is is 1860 above invoice. This makes my life a lot easier. By the way, mafitch, how much is your ES300 which is on order? Do you mind to share this info with me?

    Again, thanks all

  • I am looking for a ceritified pre-owned ES300, and I am wondering what a fair price for a 97-98 ES300 with about 25,000 to 40,000 miles. The list prices are from $24,900 to $27,900. Those prices seem quite high to me as I have seen listings in the paper for about $19,000 to $21,000 dollars. Has anyone else experienced buying a used ES300 from a Lexus dealer, I have heard that about $3,000 off the list would be a fair price ?? All help would be appreciated ..
  • I was just about set to purchase a Volvo S80 when I wandered next door to the Lexus dealer. After driving an 2000 ES 300 Platinum, I was so impressed that I think I might abandon the Volvo.

    I have heard that Lexus is not very willing to bargain. Does anyone out there have any idea of how much Lexus might be willing to bargain? I'm looking at a dealer invoice of about $31K and MSRP of a little over $35K. I usually shoot for about 2-3% over invoice: is that unrealistic?
  • vernlewvernlew Posts: 87
    Instead of having everyone answer this question again...please read through the previous posts...this question has been answered MANY times in the a little research on your own please...I paid aproximately $31,750 + TTL for my 2K should be able to do at least that well now at the end of the model year...if not, go to another dealer...or try an online service, like
  • Well Vern, Thanks for the welcome.

    I'll have you know that I had looked through previous posts! In fact I spent over 2 hours looking through various postings ranging from useful, to caustic barbs being exchanged. The most current topic that I found that dealt with pricing of the 2000 ES300 Platinum was back in April 00. I was hoping that someone who had RECENTLY purchased an ES300 would be willing share their experience with me.
  • Has anyone had an experience buying a pre-owned ES300. I can look at any new car and see what the invoice is, however, a used car is much different. I would like to have a little more info before I go in there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you
  • vernlewvernlew Posts: 87

    Sorry, if the suggestion offended you, this was not the intent, the intent was not to repeat information already available in previous posts, in case you hadn't perused them yet.

    As for time frame, since we are at the end of the model should expect an even better deal than any of the previous posts. I would say asking to pay dealer invoice would be reasonable...and letting the dealer keep the holdback as his profit. So, at this point in time, I think 2-3% above invoice is not reasonable, but 1% above maybe.

    Much has to do with supply/demand in your area, if there is only one Lexus dealer in your area...chances for a good deal are not promising. On the other hand, if you are willing to travel to an area where there are many Lexus dealers...chances for a good deal increase dramatically. (such as here in the Miami area)

    I found using the free internet car quite useful in getting an idea of how much local dealers are willing to discount...internet salesman seem to know people utilizing this service are interested in a substantial discount.

    Anyways, hope this helps you in your decision and negotiations...and hopefully you'll buy the car everyone at this site will notice there are not many complaints about the that with other car forums.

    Good Luck,

  • enigmaoneenigmaone Posts: 128

    You should be able to get, in most areas, a very good discount off of a 2001 ES300. I would expect at least a $2K to $3K discount and probably more being that the 2001 is the last production year for the 2nd generation ES300.
  • I found that the dealer certified cars typically sold for approx $3k over the prices for non-certified cars. That was almost a year ago for my '96 ES300.
    My local dealer (lawrence lexus) wasn't willing to come down on price at all, but I can see their point - they do put a lot into the certified cars.
    I opted for non-certified, and 12,000 miles later, everything has been great. No problems at all.
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    After seeing the Zaino posts in this and other forums I had to give it a try. This kind of stuff is a pretty harmless way to satisfy my obsessive-compulsive side. Gotta say, it really is the best stuff I've ever used. Expensive, time consuming, quite a work-out, .... but wow! I've got 3 coats of Z5 and 1 coat of Z2 on my wifes 16 year old car now and it looks like I put on a sheet of glass rather than polish. I can't wait to do my new ES300.
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    I'm no expert, but IMHO any remaining 2000 ES300s should be bought at prices pretty close to invoice given the current holdbacks, incentives, given that the 2001s are here, and given that there is a totally redesigned car coming in 11 months (+/-). This should at least be the case in major cities where there is some competition for your business. We've seen posted deals at invoice + a couple hundred dollars even 6-8 weeks ago.

    Also, given that several of us have purchased VP+ and Platinum cars for $31-$32K recently, a 1997 or 1998 car with 30K mi (+/-) for the mid 20s just doesn't make sense to me. That's 80% of current value for a new car. I mean, these cars do hold their value but a 97 is 4 model years old now. Most cars are looking at 40-60% residual value at this point and the very best of them generally do not exceeed 70%.

    Or is there something I'm just missing here?
  • With my 96 ES, I can't ever get any better than 21 mpg highway with AC on @ 70mph. What gives?

    How do you calculate your MPG? Maybe my numbers are jumbled?

    How about you Enigma, any suggestions on improving my gas mileage, oh wise one? How far can you go once warning light on gas gauge illuminates?

  • enigmaoneenigmaone Posts: 128
    Answer from the wise one,

    Something is either wrong with your ES300 or you can't do math(not trying to insult you). My parents 1995 ES300 with 92K miles on the odo. gives over 25 mpg all the time on trips with the A/C on. Just came back from a trip from here in NJ to Pittsburgh and back in my parents LS400 and I even got about 27MPG with the A/C off but in mountaineous driving at a average speed of about 70mph.

    When your light comes on you have about 2 1/2 gallons remaining.

    Try this,

    Next time you go on a trip, fill up your tank but only fill it up until the nozzle shuts off. Don't click it again to put that extra $0.50 in so that it hits a even dollar amount. Get going on your trip. Drive on the highway until your needle gets to the 1/2 or 1/4 mark. Refill the tank the same way as I stated above and calculate based on that.

    Also, do you keep your tires fluffed up to proper or greater PSI? I keep my ES300 at about 29. I think 26 is too low and it seems 29-30PSI is keeping the tires going longer.
  • I keep my tires at 30 PSI. How exactly do you calculate your mileage?

    I always fill up then drive til light comes on and divide the total mileage by 18 (size of gas tank) this not correct?

    I'll take your advice on the double fill-up method even though I don't exactly understand it.

    Thanks from the Mathematically challenged.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    I believe what enigma is trying to create for you is known as a mathematical constant. Since we do not have the kind of fuel monitors that Motor Trend has, we can only try and create a constant. By filling up until the gas shuts off, you will place X amount of fuel in the tank. By driving down to 3/4 or 1/2 on the fuel gauge, and then filling up again, but only to the auto shutoff, then it is assumed that dividing your miles by the number of gallons will give an accurate mpg. It would also help if you use the same pump at the same station, to eliminate the variable of different nozzle length or "shutoff sensitivity." In other words, the same nozzle would shut off at the same point each time. When you try and squeeze in more fuel after the auto shutoff, sometimes you can put in 1/2 gal, sometimes 3/4 gal, sometimes even a full gal, which will skew your mileage readings.

    Dividing your miles by 18 (fuel tank capacity) would only work if you literally filled the tank with 18 gal and than ran it until it ran out of fuel, and then checked the fuel tank to make sure it was bone dry, rather than having one or two gal sloshing around below the point of the fuel pickup.

    Does this help or make it worse?
  • Wow! Very impressive post!

    How do I know when the needle is EXACTLY at 3/4 or 1/2 tank?...or does it matter?

    As you can see, I didn't pass "Gas" in school.

    Thanks for your kind patience.
  • turbotcturbotc Posts: 163
    what I think marsha and enigma are saying is: fill up your car until it click off and don't add anymore in. Reset your trip counter to 0000. Then drive until half a tank or 1/4 tank or whatever. Then fill her up until it click off and don't add anymore in. Then take the number of miles you drove divided by how many gallons it took to refuel her then you will get the mpg reading. It may not be tottally accurate but it give you a good figure of what to expect.
  • aimanaiman Posts: 61
    I think it doesn't really matter whether u drive until 3/4 or 1/2 tank. As long as the trip is long (the longer the better) and try to keep the speed as constant as possible, you ought to get pretty good mileage approximation. Here's what I did in a step by step manner.

    1. fill up gas until auto shutoff, and don't add additional gas after shutoff.

    2. zero your trip odometer

    3. drive on the highway for a long distance (say min. of 100 miles or until ur needle move at least 1/4 of the range--the more the better) with constant speed as much as possible (don't cruise too fast because that'll burn more gas than normal)

    4. stop at a gas station (ideally the exact same one. at least find the same brand) and fill up until auto shut off.

    5. gas mileage ~= (miles in the trip odometer)/(amount of gallon in the second fill up)

    Happy experimenting!
  • I can always count on this board to help me out with my questions and problems.

    I think I've got it now. I'll let you know what kind of mileage I get.

    You guys are awesome.
  • Thanks everyone for all your help, I do think that 25K for a 1997 ES300 is VERY expensive no matter how good the resale is. I have been looking in the paper and there are individuals selling low milage ES300's for $18,500. I am going to offer $21,500, if they take it,great, if not I will go elsewhere. Once again, thanks for all your help, and JTC, I think they are very wonderful cars !!!
  • rob175rob175 Posts: 19
    I hate to be too sarcastic but for those who can't compute the fuel mileage (by the way my new ES300 gets an average of 24 city/hwy miles per gal)I would suggest that you find a 12 year old to figure it out like grammer school math assignment. Come on folks!

    Fill the tank up.....all the way up, really "top it off". Set the trip odo to "0". Next drive and use up some of that gas, it doesn't matter how much you use up just drive! When you next stop for gas fill it up again ALL THE WAY up, just like you did before. Now divide the miles driven by the amount of gallons you just topped off your tank with. Thats it!....Now was that so difficult!
  • turbotcturbotc Posts: 163
    I don't really care about gas mileage. All I know is that when I first drove her home, I am able to drive a whole week (to and back from work and shopping etc) and when the warning light come on, I fill her up and reset my tripometer. Every week, everytime I fuel her up the tripometer would read like 340 to 360 miles. Now even when the car has 20k miles, it's still the same. No more no less. When it starts to say 240 miles and I need to fill up, then it will be a concern, but for now. I could care less what the mpg is.
  • aimanaiman Posts: 61

    here in Houston 97 ES are initially priced in the low 20's. That means you can go down closer to 20 and sometimes slightly below 20, depending on factors like color, mileage, and condition. Of course, certified ES cost a lot more. Anyway, come down to Houston to shop for cars!
  • enigmaoneenigmaone Posts: 128

    NOw i see why you're getting such low numbers. You can't use the 18 gallon capacity of the tank. At the point where the light comes on you still have about 2 1/2 gallons in the tank.

    What you want to do is when you fill up use the gallon figure on the gas pump. That tells you exactly how much gallons of gas went into your tank. I am guessing when the light comes on and you fill up, you are actually only putting in about 15 gallons of gas vs. the 18 gallons you use to calculate mileage.

    I'm not saying you literally have to wait exactly to the 1/4 or 1/2 tank mark. Just use any measure. reset the odometer if you want next time you fill up and then drive 200 miles if you want or 150. then fill your tank up again as I said in my last post, and then use the amounts of miles you drove and the amount of gallons that went into your tank based on what the gas pump reading says. I'm sure after you do this, your MPG numbers will be more towards what you expected.
  • Those sound like pretty good prices down there in Houston, I'm in Dallas and both Park Place Dealers here and the Sewell dealers here are very high !! I have seen a couple 97-98 ES300's in the paper here with low miles for anywhere from $18,500 to $22,000. I would never buy a non certified car from a Lexus dealer, I can save about $10,000 from just buying from an individual, no warrany is worth 10K. I am also wondering what makes a "Certified" car that great. It's just a warranty, new tires, and service from what I can see. I'm kinda confused now, I'd like a Certified car for the warranty and better service, but it worth it ?? Once again, please help !!!
  • tjlewtjlew Posts: 10
    Hi, fellas.

    Was talking to my mechanic about the above posts concerning the mpg. He says that one shouldn't drive until the warning light comes on. He says that one shouldn't go under 1/4th of the tank because there's a fuel pump in the tank that is cooled by the fuel. It would overheat if the level goes too low. On the other side, he says to fuel the tank up until the auto cut off is reached. Overfilling would cause problems since the tank cap is not vented like in the old cars. On hot days, the gas will expand and go up the fuel lines and cause problems with the systems.

    Any comments?

  • aimanaiman Posts: 61
    I think Enigmaone can explain better on the subject of buying certified preowned v. non-certified.

    Personally, since ES uses the same engine and tranny as a V6 Camry (and even the Sienna and Avalon), you don't need the extra warranty.
  • wkbeckwkbeck Posts: 4
    Does anyone know the exact advertising fee for the Lexus and Toyotas in Southern California. The dealer is saying $600 while the amount listed on Edmunds is $200.
  • I've finally got it! I'll try it out and let you know what the numbers look like.

    Thanks for your patience on the subject. You're the foremost authority in the Town Hall.
This discussion has been closed.