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Comments
and the 2001 minivan comparison caught my eyes. As their result,
Edmunds put the most ugliest minivan on the top and the clue less
toy on the second spot. This really makes me wonder Edmunds has gone to ..., it seems to me that a bunch of editors were having fun
racing those minivan instead of evaluating them for real-life use.
Time to find a better web site for autos.
--javadoc
I'm not so concerned about the weak engine. I think it handles pretty well under most circumstances. But I'm most concerned with the price of the parts! Just call the dealer and compare the parts with other minivans! It's 30% to 40% more expensive than other vans! Why is it? The only reason I can think of it is to rake their money later by outrageously raising the price. You should be well aware of it!
Although, MPV appears to be reliable, still, a van is a machine and all machines are destined to break down and fail. For those who will be keeping the MPV for over 100K miles, beware!
It also gives the Mazda the best reliablity of all mini vans, in one of their charts in the newest consumer reports. the HOnda comes in like 6th for reliablity. Take into account that chart is made up of one years data on the Mazda though.
I too have some problems with the way they rated the MPV on the edmunds site.
A few things in particular, that I seem to recall on the edmund site or a combined thought from other sites were :
1. ABS is'nt available? Maybe they were looking at the wrong van.
2. Don't like it because it doesnt have remote sliding doors, what the heck good is that.
3. Then comparing the price to the Honda theres a 350.00 difference why buy the Mazda they state. It almost appears to me that they compare the low end Mazda to the HIgh end Honda, but when it comes to price they use the high end Mazda, I may be wrong here. But your talking about 7k in price difference.
4. Lousey gas mileage, excuse me but I'm pretty sure its either the same or 1/2 mpg less then the Honda. It also appears to me they were riding the Mazda rough to check the horsepower out. Its stated tons of times on the boards that you should'nt push the Mazda that way. I'm sure that effected the fuel economy. Needless to say I think this was a useless result.
5. The engine might me smaller then the Honda and Toyota, but the Mazda wieghts about 800 lbs lighter. Regardless of engine size I expect better engines from Honda and Toyota, basically because they have been the king of making efficent engines for years. I'm pretty sure everyone else is still playing catchup.
The only real problem I see with the Mazda is that it uses a Ford engine this of course is a negative. Theres no two ways about that.
Now that I said my peace, all of the above still does'nt make me go out and buy a Mazda yet, I'm in no rush to buy anything right now. But the Mazda is probally 1 of 3 that I'm thinking about.
Sometimes all these sites are concerned with is engine size, they also tend to like everything that comes out of Honda or Toyota, which is ok since i own a Toyota and Acura now. But don't take a lot of what they say seriously. I assume they had to find something wrong with the others just to make up a list.
Says in your profile you drive a Honda.
You also posted on a Nissan Quest board about parts costs.
While your point may be valid, I think it just caused mostly unwarrented FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt)
The engine comes from Ford, and I can buy them all day long used at about $1K, tranny's are also mass produced and can probably get them used quite cheaply, or even rebuilt.
Other parts are made by third party manufacturers (even the ones Mazda sells, I doubt any mass produced car manufacturer makes the majority of the parts that go into the vehicles) so those parts can be purchased from sources other than your local Mazda dealer.
And, when you look at parts from the third party sellers, they probably all compare favorably.
I'm not doubting that my MPV will ever suffer a mechanical failure, but I'm not worried about it.
Heck, I would be more worried about the Honda Odyssey. If they can't build 'em fast enough to sell, I fear there would be a shortage of replacement parts. If there is no part available, it really doesn't matter what the price is.
Anyway, I just wanted to know if you have any real world MPV experience.
I do!
TB
Thanks
--j
TB
Okay TB, have some fun. Don't see to much of you here anymore anyway (howz the SVT?)!
EDIT:
Oh, had to mention this, 'bout broke my car-nut heart. There's a new MPV on my street (makes 4 now). I was walking the dog and stopped to talk to the owner while he was washing his blue (gorgeous color) LX. I say, "So, do you like your MPV? We love ours. We should get all the MPVs on the street together for a photo."
He said, "Oh, there's other MPVs on this street?" I think maybe he lives in a cave or something. :P
--j
P.S. louis: Where are my part comparisons???? That could have been fun.
--j
For shame! Is that any way to treat an errant wayfarer on our little journey though MPVland? As soon as I get up off the floor and stop laughing, you're in for a good chiding.
))
RJ
However (on topic...how novel coming from me, right?), I've replaced the airfilter on the van with a K&N filter and noticed a ton of oil on one half of the old filter, it's called blow-by (or blow back, I forget). I've seen this before on my '83 VW, but didn't think it still happened on modern cars with the newer MAFs. I remember it was remedied on my VW by plugging an air return line from the intake. Anyway, I'm going to have the dealer 'spane it to me when I go in for my obligatory LOF next week. Anyone else seeing this? TB, seen this on the Contour, or are you using a cone filter?
-javadoc
Hasta
MSGJVH
The IT slowdown hasn't hit here yet. (I hope it really doesn't either.) Been busy installing truckloads of Sun gear for MasterCard.
Did get new wheels and tires for the SVT this week. O.Z. Superleggera's wrapped in Firestone SZ50EP's. Amazing grip in the wet, was taking 35MPH off ramps in the rain at 60+ (no traffic)
Can't wait to try them on the dry roads.
May want to get some different tires for the MPV now.
Anybody want a set of 16" Dunlop Sport SP4000's for the MPV, I'm thinking about a set of the SP5000's if they will fit.
Maybe a plus one to get to a 225 tire on there
Dunno about the goop on the air filter, haven't seen much on the SVT.
Our MPV just turned 10K last week, and I expect to have our K&N soon, so I'll snap some pix and post them when I make the swap.
TB
Here's what the goop looks like, after 15,000 miles. I linked so I didn't post a large pic.
--java
To take all your challenge, I've called the Mazda, Toyota, and Honda dealerships and compared the prices (since none of you had guts to prove me wrong!). What is the most frequent part that is replaced in a Van? Probably the brakes. Mazda front brake pad costs, are you ready, $96. Sienna and Odyssey front brake pads cost $54 & $51. Other parst were not as drastically expensive, but I found MPV parts to be always the most expensive. I wish it wasn't so b/c I like MPV and I'm planning to drive it until it falls apart.
Right now, I drive a beat up Civic 88, and I'm ready to purchase a minivan. In spite of the expensive parts, I'm still leaning towards MPV b/c of the value and the owner satisfaction record. Having said that, I'm making a valid point of directing the mob about the pitfall that lies ahead. If you think I'm wrong, please let me know and I would be glad to respond to you. Thanks for your replies.
p.s.- I read the invoice price to be $20840 in one of the annual car magazines (don't recall the name of the magazine) which had all the car prices. Is this true in contrary to Emdmunds?
Louis
Bumper cover
T $365.59
H $335.00
M $297.00
Rear Shoes
T $34.07
H $67.36
M $71.30
Alternator
T $542.94
H $267.65
M $328.65
Starter
T $344.63
H $338.35
M $200.30
Oil Filter
T $7.34
H $5.97
M $5.20
Water Pump
T $97.68
H $99.98
M $95.95
T=Sienna H=Odyssey M=MPV
All 2001 w/ABS if specified.
BRAKE PAD/SHOE-FRONT ALBANY MKD551 17.99
I figure the Toyota and the Honda have been out longer then the MPV. In fact the MPV has only been out one year. This version anyway. It takes some times for the aftermarket guys to build parts for them. If something does go wrong with your MPV you may pay dealer prices for a few years I figure. But those prices that maltb posted make sense, shame all these prices are high for these minis. They seem to be about 30-50% higher then a japan car. They are heavier duty parts then what a car would use.
Alternator, starter pads, rotors, and rear shoes looks like a list that makes sense.
One item is missing the Ac Compressor/evaporator/dryer system, maybe one of you can help me does the MPV use 2 compressors. Also for you guys that own mpv for years how does the ac holdout? I find that the Most expensive systerm is the AC when my car fails.
Here's some price comparisons provided for me by an auto industry insider and Motor Info Systems:
Odyssey / MPV / Sienna
Front Fender: $181.80 / $141.70 / $349.45
ABS Control Unit: $784.95 / $1,062.45 / $1,230.65
Exterior Mirror: $132.83 / $144.40 / $153.97
Front Damper: $100.98 / $67.35 / $137.78
Rear Damper: $101.97 / $58.30 / $31.01
Of note, the Ody doesn't (to my knowledge) have heated mirrors, the MPV and Sienna do
Tb has an absolute splendid point about the Ody: if they can't even make the van fast enough for the demand, where are you going to find replacement parts if you have a mechanical failure? I know, because I've owned some pretty low production vehicles. The answer is, you wait. I've waited months for headlights for my old Saab because you just couldn't find one.
Louis...(tongue in cheek)I'm firing up my bar-b-que...how do you like your crow prepared? Medium, or Cajun style?
--javadoc
I always prefer Medium at BBQ's. Can I have a Michelob too please!
My fridge only stocks Dr. Pepper and Coronas, so take your pick.
--java
Isn't it Car and Driver that measures vehicle capacity in cubic feet and cases of beer?
Wonder how many cases the MPV is good for?
Not that I'll drink the Mic, but could probably bring a healthy amount.
All in the interest of, uhhh, science, yeah that's it.
Is that the sound of quiet.
Mrs TBoner is out shopping. (Her profession) She has taken the know-it-all with her.
Baby and me are here. Baby is asleep, and with me starting today at 4AM, I'm probably not far behind.
Cheers,
TB
One more question. Does anybody know the actual invoice price of MPV LX? I read in one of the popular Car Magazine that it was $20840. Is this true in contrary to Edmunds price?
Also, did you have rear a/c installed? Do you need one for Virginia area?
I would like to know at what mileage you guys did your first oil change and at what mileage you think it's safe to switch to synthetic?
I find it interesting that the manual doesn't recommend an oil change until 7500 miles! I was thinking it should be changed at 1000.
Thanks for your input.
At 1K, I changed the oil filter, and topped up the oil with Mobil1 5W30.
I do oil changes at every 5K.
While I once advocated the Motorcraft FL-820S that came with the van. I'm now sold on the K&N oil filter (2010 I think) It appears to flow more oil than the Motorcraft unit.
While it's filtering efficiency is not as good, with the recent rash of oil starvation problems on Contour's I've read about, I've decided that it is probably more important to get oil to the critical parts of the engine, than to have the cleanest oil.
I think the added filtration ability of the Motorcraft and the Purolator Pure One filters may drop the oil pressure too much under full throttle, high rpm conditions.
But others have run the Motorcraft filters for the entire lifespan of their vehicle without drama.
I'd avoid Fram filters. The anti-drainback valves in them are not very good, so you get a great deal of valve noise at startup until oil is pumped back up into the top of the engine. I guess that anti-drainback valve isn't.
HTH
TB
When we were accelerating, there was a some sort of mechanical pinging sound or clanking sound. There was no problem driving the car and all seems well. We got somewhat low mileage, but we had the AC running all the time (two kids in the car). We had the 12,000 mile check up just two days before the trip and all was well.
Any help would be great.
Does anyone know if these engines come with break-in oil, or is it plain old 5w-20?
I plan to do an oil and filter change at 1000 miles but I have not yet decided whether to go with Mobil 1 or stay with plain old oil. In previous cars, I've used whatever oil is on sale at the time but I plan on keeping the MPV for 10 years so I'd like to do what I can to make it last.
Although I live in New Hampshire where it can get somewhat cold, the van is kept in a gararge that doesn't get below 30*F so cold starts are not much of an issue for me. And from what I understand, cold starts are a good reason to use synthetics.
One last word of advice from experience with my dealer. Keep all your receipts for maintenance . Even those that you perform yourself. Without that proof your dealer will and has harassed you for not performing the recommended maintenance. Now why oil change receipts have anything to do with my peeling leather seat, I have no idea but I still have to fight that out.
Sorry for the long post.
MSGJVH
The one Mazda dealer I talked with said the mechanics don't even want to do it - it's only a labor charge - choke!
Example:
Let's say your invoice price is 22,000. I would offer $20,900 + tax.
$22,000 invoice
+ 400 dealer profit
_________
$22,400
- 1500 rebate(to go to dealer)
_________
$20,900 + tax
There is a 2 percent holdback to dealer also.
I believe this a fair offer and any dealer who wants to move this vechicle will accept it. Also, if you finance your Van consider to do it thru the dealer if they can match your local bank or credit union. We financed thru the dealer and they used Chase at 6.64% for 60 months. The dealer usually makes 2% of your financed amt. This helps the dealer make a little more and you receive a good rate.
Go in with the invoice price and be firm. Make sure you know the exact van you want. Don't go for clearcoat, rustproof, scotchgard, etc. , big ripoffs and high dealer profit.
This is, of course, is MY OPINION, not every one is going to agree with my way of purchasing a car, it was succesful for me.
Options I recommend on the LX:
Rear Air- It get's fairly hot and humid in New Jersey for at least 3 to 4 months, I recommend rear air.
4 Seasons- For only $500 you get rear heat, extra tranny and engine cooling, heavy duty rear defroster and a huge windshield solvent holder.
We wanted the Security Pkg for the side airbags and alloy wheels, this option is pricy.
I don't know about dealers in New Jersey. Go on Mazda's web site (www.Mazdausa.com) and check the president's club( I beleve its called) it's their 4 star dealerships.
Sorry, for the long post.
Good Luck
Pete
IMHO, 5w 20 is fine for all year round operation. Using a thicker oil could cause you problems in the winter. Why worry about changing the viscosity season to season. 20 seems to be the all round better choice.
Also, I doubt Mazda will void your warranty when it says 5w 20 on the fill cap and nothing about 5w-30.
MPV's crash test rating isn't bad at all. And price is much more compelling than Sienna's. Just take a look at all the standard features of MPV and then compare it to the competitors, compare how you feel behind the wheel of each vehicle and choose what is best for you and your budget...
I couldn't compare the HL as I haven't driven one. They look comparable in size actually, and the HL is very nice, typical Toyota quality. The HL is more expensive than the MPV and I believe the Sienna too. It's based on a Camry platform, so it's not an off-roader. I'd look at the HL as more of a 4-seater as most vehicles this size cannot fit three normal-sized humans in a row.
The big question would be (for me), do you need a third row? We've got two little ones (5&2), and leave the third row in our MPV stowed in the floor about 90% of the time. We flip it up when we have other kids, or the MIL with us. That way, we have lots of cargo room (always need it) and can still accomodate more passengers when needed. Also, you can put the noisy (5-y.o.) in the third row when she gets too noisy.
Like Alexv1n said, look at all the features, figure out what you want to spend, take long, long test drives, and...
Good luck in your search!
--javadoc
INVOICE
ES $24279
ENT $1372
FOG $215
RCK $172
DES $480
Rebate -$1595
TOTAL $24,923
With out any hassle Maza South (Austin, TX) took $24,723. During the paperwork I signed the rebate over to the dealer -- the rebate was listed as $2095!
Very happy with the purchase price, but I do wonder about that extra $500 in the rebate.
Has anyone else seen this?
According the Japanese monthly car scoop magazine “MAG X” on this month,
the some contents of change and its month on new MPV are reported.
I’m not sure whether these are true or not , but in summary is as below.
1.New engine
New modified 3.0L by Ford Duratec and 2.3L with Direct Injection system by Mazda
will be added. The 2.0L will be gone for Japan and EC.
Besides, the 2.0L diesel with new transmission is planed for EC.
An information about the Direct Injection system was just known by a salesperson of
the Mazda this Mon. night.
2.Exterior
The front and back features will be more sharply. The head lights, front fender and
rear lights shapes will be modified new.
3.New transmission will be substituted the 5 Speed A.T. for the currently 4 Speed A.T..
4.Front brakes will be substituted 16 in. for the currently 15 in..
5.The 17 in. alloy wheel will be available on the upper grade.
6.The plastic rear wiper
7.The new moduled audio system (I’ m confirming now.)
8.The power sliding doors will be available.
9.The H.I.D. headlighs will be available as option.
10.Month of minor change
N/A Nov. 01. , Japan Jan.02.
New MPV is to make debut at Tokyo motor show in this autumn.
Please refer this magazine’s site too.
http://www.mag-x.com/index_ie.html
Excuse me hard to read. Be good now.
Those are great new features that you mentioned. I hope they all make it to the US model next year. And I hope that those new HID lights would fit on my 2001 ES. That'll be cool. Please keep us posted.
Domo Arigato.
1. This van is currently selling near invoice.
2. This van is currently 4-5k under other van prices
3. Most people I would assume will be driving it till it drops.
4. What do you think a mini or suv will be running for in 7-10 years as far as price goes. My guess is 30k+ minimum. I for one don't expect to sell my van or suv for at least 8 years. By then it will be worth a lot less I'm sure.
If all you care about is trade in value then yes in 2 years the MPV may depreciate more then a toyota and honda, but who cares, and who really wants to get ripped trading something in.
Comparing the Mazda to the Honda and Toyota just doesn't make sense to me since they are so much cheaper to buy.
And lastly look at consumer reports, and check out what they say for vans to avoid. If I'm not mistaken the 1999 Honda Od is on that list.
I don't own an MPV but so far as I can tell it's competively priced.
1st, used car publications base their recommendations on reliability history. the MPV on its 1st year did very well, and the problems have been limited to a number of identifiable areas (ie. tie rods, misalignments). build quality of this van is very good. so once past the initial year, there would be little reason to see other problems.
2nd, actual negotiated purchase price is very low. if 3 or 5 years later they calculate the residual value based on todays MSRP then you have a really good price to start negotiation. if you negotiated a good price today you are pretty well ahead.
Now, imagine how difficult the situation will be for those Ody/Sienna owners who rushed to pay for above MSRP. Do you think they can factor those extra bucks in the future when these vans can be had nearer the invoice?
The only real concern i see will be the effect of the 3.0 litre on the current 2.5 engine.
It will all depend on how Mazda will manage the new prices. Lucky me i anticipated a 3.0 litre and leased an MPV with a good residual value.
just my 2 cents.