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Comments
I need your advice here. This morning before I went to church, my car's fuel gauge was on "E" and my fuel light was on. However, when I came out from church and all the way home, my fuel gauge needle was two notches above "E." Does this mean that I have the fuel gauge problem that the TSB addresses? At church, I was parked on a hill, but it never leveled out on the way home. Thanks! I appreciate your help.
This review says the 5 speed revs at about 3,000 rpm at 65 mph. That explains the buzzy ride.
It sounds like the automatic is a little quieter, but 2800 or 2900 rpm is still a lot of tiring noise to deal with on a long trip.
It sounds like the stick needs a 6th gear and the automatic needs a 5th.
Mobil 1 has:
0W-30
5W-30
10W-30
15W-50
Does anyone know where I can find 5W-20 synthetic which meets Honda's specifications??
Thanks in advance.
NewCiv
The Civic 5-sp turns about 2900 rpms at 60, at 65 it's about 3200. However, if you're in a Midwestern city like I am, 60 & 65 is the slow lane. 70 &0 75 will put more like 3500-3800 rpms on the tach, and 80 is about 4 grand. That's where things get noisy. 60 & 65 aren't bad, but 75, and especially 80 are tiresome.
As for the stereo, yes, the coupe does have a better stereo. The sedans have only 4 speakers, while the coupes add two tweeters for a total of six speakers. EX models as a genre have stronger speakers, at 30 watts per compared to 20 for LXs and DXs. The stereo in the sedans is decent. It doesn't have much bass to it, so some sounds, like the bass on Aaliyah's "Try Again" can sound slightly hollow at times. I'd be willing to bet, however, that those who complain of the stereo's weakness either a) are used to more expensive custom or factory systems to begin with or b) don't have the bass and treble turned up. It's by no means a Bose or even Delco system, but at the same time, I've heard worse (think Toyota). Everytime the stereo codes, you hvae to turn the bass & treble up. The difference is startling. Suddenly, everything sounds better. If it's still not good enough, invest in a good set of speakers first. Sony X-Plods are good two-way speakers that supposedly do wonders for sound even with factory heads.
The coupes also have the silver gauges, which look cooler by day, but aren't as legible for some people due to their lack of contrast, particularly when compared to the sedans' gauges.
They car us supposed to be able to easily handle 10K miles between changes on normal oil under normal driving conditions.
Why would they be against it? It can't hurt the engine can it?
I believe the owners manual says if 5W-20 is not available, then 5W-30 is OK. Since synthetic oil is not yet made in 5W-20, I will probably use the 5-30W synthetic for a year (i'm guessing) until the 5W-20 synthetic comes out. It is just so much more superior to mineral-based oils !!
NewCiv
A 2002 SI hatchback would be a nice addition but I'm doubtful we will see them.
Bottom line is that Synthetic oil is worth it's weight in gold regarding protecting your engine from sludge build up and general wear.
I will shortly be contacting American Honda Corporation in Ohio directly to hopefully get their opinion on the use of Synthetic oil in a 2001 Civic.
NewCiv
It's "synthesized" from the dino(crude oil). Yet technically it still can be called full synthetic.
http://www.castrolusa.com/products/productpage1.asp?product_category=1&product_id=4
I never thought I'd ever have a positive comment about a Ford, but the Focus' stereo is superior in every way. Better sound AND excellent location including the cool "rubberized" volume knob. The Civic's stereo is angled away from the driver, has a tiny volume knob and tiny display. If you look at the speakers under the rear shelf (from inside the trunk), they look like speakers you would find on a cheap portable radio. The front speakers in the door are no longer accessible through a pop-off speaker cover. It looks like you have to remove the entire door panel to gain access.
And asking your dog what oil to use will about as informative as calling Honda of America unless you can talk to the technical people that are actually involved in the designing and testing of the parts. Those people you get on the phone just read what they are given and if your question is not covered in their pre-made list of answers then they will just refer you back to what the owners manual recomends.
We're getting about 35-36 mpg doing highway speed limits (65mph) and with a mostly freeway commute.
The Air conditioner works great as we've already had a chance to use it this year.
As a loaner, we have a '96 (at least I think it's a '96 or '97- it has the old slider HVAC controls, which I think were phased out in '98) Civic DX Hatchback with an automatic. That's about as opposite of my car as you can get within the Civic family. Driving the "Pluckmobile" around a little has revealed a few things. First off, the suspension changes ARE that noticible. The Pluckmobile has a much better sense of straight ahead (though some of that might be my car's leaky tire), with much firmer steering, and a much firmer, better controlled ride. Handling I don't believe to be much better because of the skinny tires, but the ride and steering are dramatically different. My car has problems on rebound. It may crash or comfortably absorb a bump at first, but the slightly uncontrolled leap into the air that follows can be unsettling. The Pluckmobile just goes up and down with no drama whatsoever. Overall, I prefer the Pluckmobile's control, even if it does make for a thumpy ride. The steering, however, while direct, is rather tiring. I usually steer with one hand on the highway, and while you don't need many corrections to the Pluckmobile's path, when you do, it takes some effort. I guess I'm just not used to it. It is much more precise and weighty, though, which is nice. Overall, I'll say that the tradeoff that the Honda engineers made was worth it. The new car is not bad, and the space gains were worth it, both for crash and passenger space purposes.
Finally, the biggest difference between the two cars is in the engine. The Pluckmobile is NOISY! The engine makes a huge racket when accelerating, and road noise is a constant companion. My car is so much quieter, especially under hard acceleration.
I should get my car back tomorrow, assuming that they don't have to order any more parts. Until then, learning the nuances of this little tennis shoe will be interesting to say the least.
http://www.honda2001.com/civicsi/index.html
It is also a hatchback, which are generally always less expensive.
Honda's catalog shows 20x4 for the LX and 30x4 for the EX. The coupe has different 6x9s in the rear between the two models and the Sedan shows different speakers all the way around, although it doesn't list them as model specific between the brands it does show 2 choices for each speaker.
-Trevor
PS- it's not the sound of the A/C engaging. That's completely different. This sound is more like a turbo whistle.
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
I always love it when a new model comes out, listening to the various comments...
" Why did they screw it up?"
" Oh, it's SO much better!"
" The front end is ugly"
" the front end looks nice"
" It looks like a fill in the blank"
" What a butt ugly color"
" Ohh, what a pretty color"
Go figure!
I agree that looks are subjective. Can you believe that ANY Pontiac Aztecs are sold?!?!?
Someone must like the way they look, but I sure don't think like they do!
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
Focus and Civic hatchbacks will always play catch up really. Neither offers a VR6 or 1.8t engine and such a beatiful interior.
I actually think the new Civic HB looks okay. Not better than the Golf, but much better than the Focus.
Why Honda didn't increase displacement closer to 1.7 (instead of 1668 cc) is beyond me. They should have designed the new engine for 1.8L and accept the fact that mileage numbers may drop by 1 or 2 mpg. I don't think anyone would have minded the slightly lower fuel economy.
It seems like these other ads are below invoice for a brand new model. I know about bait and switch car ads, but that seems excessive. Thanks for your input.
Check Carsdirect.com and put you zip code in to get an idea of what the car could be easily sold for in your area.
This is not like a PT Cruiser that is built in relatively low numbers.
Good luck.
But, during the 1800-mile trip to Grand Canyon days ago, the light once came up fairly early. I drove the car for another 40 miles after the light came up. I could only fill in 9.8 gal of gas. Usually, I would be able to pump in 10.0 gal when the light just comes up.
Here's the gas mileage I have so far:
SF area commute (70% city or bumper-2-bumper FWY): 33 mpg
90mph FWY: 35mpg
80mph FWY: 37mpg
65mph FWY: 42mpg
I am very surprised by the last number. But I think that driving condition is rare in the real world: no traffic, steady cruise at 65mph, no hills, few curves, no strong wind.
One major problem with the car: the ride is extremely harsh. I think its ride is by far the worst among all competitors in the class. I test drove or rent Corolla, Sentra, Accent, Cavalier, Neon. I bought Civic because of its unbeatable value (lowest 3-year or 5-year total cost).
4 years is also a long time to make payments then turn in a car with no equity.
Lower monthly payments do not automatically equal lower total cost.
If you finance a car like a Civic for 5 years, the monthly payments may be somewhat higher than leasing for 3 years with the same amount of cash up front. However, if you had purchased the car on a 5 year loan and sold it after 36 months, the difference between the loan payoff and the market value would be returned to you. On a car that holds value like a Civic that had been purchased near invoice cost, you should have some equity after 36 payments even if you had financed it for 6 years.
There is nothing that automatically makes even very short term leases cheaper than purchasing. (Have you checked the monthly payments on a 24 month lease?) If there is lease incentive that is not matched by an equally attractive incentive on purchase, then a lease could be cheaper. If the the residual value in the lease turns out to have been overestimated, then a lease could turn out cheaper in that situation, but it is not automatically a better deal for any length of term.
Whether you buy or lease, in some way, you have to pay the difference between the price you purchased and the value of car when you want to trade it in. If you lease, in addition to this and interest, you may have additional leasing fees and charges.
When you lease, and go over the agreed mileage, you will have to pay excess mileage charges that are higher than the price adjustment you would have had to make selling a car with the same miles. If you end up driving much less than expected and have very low miles, you get nothing back when you return the car at the end of the lease. If you have very low miles on a car you own and sell, you will be able to sell for a higher price.
The entire leasing process and the methods used to calculate monthly payments are more complicated and it is much easier for the sales people and finance managers to use this complexity as a way to confuse buyers into paying more than they should.
According to the manual, I must maintain it after every 5000 miles under severe condition,
or after every 10,000 miles under normal condition.
But the dealer recommended me to maintain it after every 3000 miles.
Which schedule should I follow?
BTW, my roommate bought a new Nissan Sentra, which required to do the first
service after the first 1000 miles. I am wondering when I should do the first service.
Please share your experiences of maintenance.
Thanks.
Maybe it's time to trade it in for a 2001